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richyp posted:
That sorcerer is superb. I知 so over bloated fat Nurgle dudes, they can稚 possibly all look like that. Your guy is refreshing!
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Jan 29, 2019 09:33
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ineptmule posted:That sorcerer is superb. I知 so over bloated fat Nurgle dudes, they can稚 possibly all look like that. Your guy is refreshing! Thanks, I'm going a bit off-piste with the conversions this time. Like this dude, though I've not quite worked out what he will be yet he started life as a GSC aberrant. He'll either be one of five chosen, a Generic Chaos Warrior Champion or a Blight King.  (I see the mold lines and bits, I'm waiting for the poly cement to dry so I can tidy him up.)
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Jan 29, 2019 11:48
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There are two people who will judge how well your models are painted: you, and painting judges. You are your worst critic. The painting judges are often the nicest people around and will happily give you advice if asked. Don't compare your models to the best painters online. Compare your latest model to the one before it. Constantly find ways to push yourself, and focus on the progress instead of expecting perfection.
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Jan 29, 2019 14:03
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I want to say thanks to you guys for the words of encouragement! I知 having fun with it and my wife thinks I知 doing a good job. I知 for sure going to keep going and keep improving. Right now, I知 using the citadel paint app for guidance on what to use for base coats, shades, and dry brush hi lights. Should I be using a different resource?
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Jan 29, 2019 14:42
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richyp posted:Thanks, I'm going a bit off-piste with the conversions this time. Like this dude, though I've not quite worked out what he will be yet he started life as a GSC aberrant. He'll either be one of five chosen, a Generic Chaos Warrior Champion or a Blight King. When I initially saw this I thought the skull in the shoulder pad was his head, which actually looked rad as hell.
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Jan 29, 2019 16:09
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Inspector_666 posted:When I initially saw this I thought the skull in the shoulder pad was his head, which actually looked rad as hell. I agree, we need more William Birkin-style mutants. 
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Jan 29, 2019 16:44
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Zev posted:I want to say thanks to you guys for the words of encouragement! I’m having fun with it and my wife thinks I’m doing a good job. I’m for sure going to keep going and keep improving. The paint app is fine. Citadel's system is great for new painters and you will absolutely get better using it. If you have questions just ask; some of us have been painting for decades and are more than happy to provide advice.
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Jan 29, 2019 17:01
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Don't compare your models to the best painters online. Compare your latest model to the one before it. Constantly find ways to push yourself, and focus on the progress instead of expecting perfection. This is great advice. Much better to be proud of progress instead of having unrealistic expectations. I've painted 1000 points of Slaaesh this month and you could probably pick out the order they were done in.
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Jan 29, 2019 17:21
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Slimnoid posted:I agree, we need more William Birkin-style mutants. need a whole gellerpox infected army
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Jan 29, 2019 18:05
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I received my small backlog of minis today.  I知 gonna get a ton of practice in for like the next year.
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Jan 29, 2019 18:58
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It's near the end of the month and I don't think I'm going to get much more done, so here's my month in Slaanesh: HQs. The prince is converted from a Dark Elves Medusa with Slaanesh and tyranid bits.  NuFiends.  An excessive amount of daemonettes (53).  Sooooouuuulllll Grrrrriiiiinnnnnnnderrrrrrr! He's a dirty, nasty boy!  Chaos Hellwright on Dark Abeyant. Kind of crapily converted Tech Priest Dominus. Flipped the chest backwards, moved a couple things around, filled in some gaps, and plopped him on leftover cryptek bits. In retrospect, I should have moved that central gun down for puerile humor. The paint job was done in about an hour to see how that could work out.
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Jan 30, 2019 05:37
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 Added two more troopers to the two I did a while ago, now he has some friends. My goal was to get this detachment finished by this weekend so it could hit the table painted. Looking dicey.
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Jan 30, 2019 07:24
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Zev posted:I want to say thanks to you guys for the words of encouragement! I知 having fun with it and my wife thinks I知 doing a good job. I知 for sure going to keep going and keep improving. The paint app is very useful, especially as a beginner. If you want to understand more of why you're doing things, Lupe wrote a good article series which starts here: http://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/an-actually-helpful-guide-to-the-citadel-paint-system-part-1/
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Jan 30, 2019 09:05
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The Midwest has become Siberia, so at the moment I'm staying inside, finishing up some Chaos Cultists, and experimenting with ground up chalk sticks to add grime and gunk onto their bases.
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Jan 30, 2019 13:57
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Finished another one!  Next I知 going to do like 12 goblins.
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Jan 31, 2019 04:01
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gently caress me for trying to wait until after gluing to paint this annihilation barge.
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Feb 1, 2019 02:12
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Alternative pants posted:gently caress me for trying to wait until after gluing to paint this annihilation barge.
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Feb 1, 2019 02:48
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 It isn't awful, and it's still light years ahead of where I was this time last year, but it could definitely be better.
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Feb 1, 2019 03:23
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Painting complex and semi-complex kits in sub-assemblies is key. Gaze upon the works of BftBG and be enlightened.
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Feb 1, 2019 12:34
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Irate Tree posted:Painting complex and semi-complex kits in sub-assemblies is key. Gaze upon the works of BftBG and be enlightened.  Plastic glue and sprues will set you free.
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Feb 1, 2019 14:09
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
After having to retroactively reduce these guys back to sub-assemblies once I'd started painting, I couldn't agree more.  gently caress models with seams through big visible armour plates though.
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Feb 1, 2019 15:15
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Painted up the converted guy from the other day to join his stinky pals 
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Feb 1, 2019 15:42
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
Plastic glue is just super glue, right? I've been using blue tack on the end of BBQ skewers for stuff and it works, but sometimes it's hard to gets things stuck on without accidentally masking sections out.
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Feb 1, 2019 15:53
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Inspector_666 posted:Plastic glue is just super glue, right? I've been using blue tack on the end of BBQ skewers for stuff and it works, but sometimes it's hard to gets things stuck on without accidentally masking sections out. Plastic Glue is Polystyrene Cement (fuses plastic), super glue is something different (glues everything including fingers)
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Feb 1, 2019 15:55
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richyp posted:Plastic Glue is Polystyrene Cement (fuses plastic), super glue is something different (glues everything including fingers) How do you get the thing off the sprue when you're done then? I thought the cement stuff was supposed to be pretty much permanent. Also I don't think I posted about it but I had a moment assembling one of my skitarii with super glue where I picked up my hands and all 10 of my fingers were glued on.
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Feb 1, 2019 15:57
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Inspector_666 posted:Plastic glue is just super glue, right? I've been using blue tack on the end of BBQ skewers for stuff and it works, but sometimes it's hard to gets things stuck on without accidentally masking sections out. Just to add on to what richyp said, plastic glue isn't actually a glue; it's a solvent that literally melts plastic. It's used to join two plastic pieces together permanently (short of sawing/cutting it apart). It doesn't work on every kind of plastic, so you can't use it on something like Bones figures or resin/restic figures, but it works just fine on the type of plastic used by GW or your typical scale model kit. For clear pieces like canopies or headlights, and to add sand/flock to bases, use PVA glue (aka white glue/Elmer's glue). For everything else use super glue.
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Feb 1, 2019 16:01
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Inspector_666 posted:How do you get the thing off the sprue when you're done then? I thought the cement stuff was supposed to be pretty much permanent. While it does make a permanent bond between touching surfaces, it's only between the parts that are pressed together, so if you don't have very flush joins or only use a little bit of glue then it's still possible to snap them off again afterwards (the bond is only as strong as the plastic itself, after all). I am very grateful for this fact every time I rescue an eBay model that's been badly plastic glued together. If you want an alternative, a .85 mm or so drill bit and a box of paper clips achieves a similar thing, you can glue with super glue for a fairly firm bond but easily break it later by twisting. As for gluing fingers... I'm fairly certain fingertips must be the absolute ideal surface for superglue to adhere to (they actually probably are - lots of ridges and slightly damp). I always end up sticking things to my fingers rather than where they belong. You are not alone there.
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Feb 1, 2019 16:26
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Meeple posted:While it does make a permanent bond between touching surfaces, it's only between the parts that are pressed together, so if you don't have very flush joins or only use a little bit of glue then it's still possible to snap them off again afterwards (the bond is only as strong as the plastic itself, after all). I am very grateful for this fact every time I rescue an eBay model that's been badly plastic glued together. Alright, I was under the impression that plastic glue/cement was for when you really wanted a permanent bond (I use it for the initial assembly of stuff before anything gets painted) so using it on something that's intentionally temporary seemed backwards. I have a (very bad) pin vise and I was thinking about trying the paper clips but 99% of the time my skewer/blue tack method is working without issue so I've just stuck with that. I do need to pin part of my plague cleaver onto one of my plague marines, though. Meeple posted:As for gluing fingers... I'm fairly certain fingertips must be the absolute ideal surface for superglue to adhere to (they actually probably are - lots of ridges and slightly damp). I always end up sticking things to my fingers rather than where they belong. You are not alone there. I just thought it was hilarious because I'd finally gotten all these tiny fiddly bits where I wanted them, and went to finally admire my work and...nope.
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Feb 1, 2019 16:31
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While stuck inside during the cold snap, I was rooting around some boxes I found that had a bunch old minis. Mostly they were 40k-related, but I did come across some various fantasy figures (mainly Reaper) I'd bought around 10, maybe even 15 years or so ago (I think). I believe I had the idea at the time to use them as part of an Inquisitorial army back during the period of 40k 3rd/4th edition, by doing conversions and adding purity seals and such, but ultimately never got around to doing anything with 'em. So, since I play Frostgrave and just got the rules for the co-op game (Rangers of Shadow Deep) by Frostgrave's author, I decided to just start painting some up for use in those games.  So yeah, this figure has been sitting around unpainted for a decade plus, until yesterday, and I got into a nice painting groove and knocked him out basically over the course of a day. He's pretty much done apart from some touchups here and there and the final bits of basing; I'm just waiting around for some Army Painter tufts and flock to show up so I can add the final touches.
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Feb 1, 2019 16:33
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
I would use super glue instead, it snaps off cleaner. You can just use some water on one side to make it cure almost instantly as well.
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Feb 1, 2019 17:21
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 WIP Cherubael - this is probably my first major conversion effort since 6th ed WHFB I have failed to make my goal for today though, so ordo xenos stays home for another week
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Feb 2, 2019 20:14
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 Started work on another Reaper fantasy figure, this is another one that I had sitting in a box for umpteen years that I never got around to painting.
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Feb 3, 2019 06:09
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More grot artillery is done:
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Feb 3, 2019 19:42
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Inspector_666 posted:Plastic glue is just super glue, right? I've been using blue tack on the end of BBQ skewers for stuff and it works, but sometimes it's hard to gets things stuck on without accidentally masking sections out. Nope, it's a solvent. I use this stuff and it's great. You can get it at most US hobby stores. General Olloth posted:I would use super glue instead, it snaps off cleaner. You can just use some water on one side to make it cure almost instantly as well. The issue with super glue is that it leaves a residue that you have to subsequently scrape off. With plastic glue I generally get a very clean break, and more importantly the bond is very strong since it's a solvent weld. More importantly I have a guaranteed clean surface that I can then apply to bond the part during assembly. Note how most of the arms are adhered to the sprue where the pauldron sits; there's a ton of surface area there to get a nice bond and it doesn't have to be perfect since it gets completely covered. Anyway I painted an entire army that way so I don't see a reason to change.
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Feb 3, 2019 21:56
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This morning I painted my first ever miniature!  It is from Warhammer Age of Sigmar. I am very happy with how it turned out but it does need a few touch ups I think, but that is super easy to do. I went into this being very intimidated and afraid of what I paint turning out bad. That ended up not being the case at all, this was super easy to do and fun.   
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Feb 3, 2019 22:07
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Great job! Get it to where you're happy, and then put it somewhere. Then paint another, and another, and another. You'll be amazed at how quickly you develop.
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Feb 3, 2019 22:13
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Got a good start on this thing over the weekend  
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Feb 3, 2019 22:17
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I said come in! posted:This morning I painted my first ever miniature! This looks incredible for your first painting. 10/10 Good job my friend  I知 especially impressed by the gold. I知 not sure why but often gold will look like poop when painted on models. Yours however look great!
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Feb 3, 2019 22:44
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:This looks incredible for your first painting. 10/10 Good job my friend Thank you!  Looking at the pics more closely, I see some more spots I need to touch up, but i'm excited to start on my 2nd figure!
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Feb 3, 2019 23:53
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Nope, it's a solvent. I use this stuff and it's great. You can get it at most US hobby stores. I've been building lots of resin models so I've gotten used to instant curing in terms of saving time. It's faster for me and I don't need the strong bond and can't for half my models anyways. I'm used to picking super glue scabs off models. So I guess you're alright if you stay away from 30k. 
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Feb 4, 2019 00:18
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