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So I left my motorcycle in the garage during Winter and haven't really messed with it and now the battery is pretty close to dead. The lights turn on but the engine won't turn over. So what is the cheapest device I can get to plug into the house, and onto the bike to start the engine again?
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Jan 31, 2019 20:19
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| # ? May 16, 2024 07:22 |
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You plug your phone or computer into the house and order a new battery to start your bike with.
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Jan 31, 2019 20:23
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Search Amazon for "trickle charger". There's a Black & Decker version for $19 shipped with Prime. Battery Tender brand stuff works but is basic and costs more than it should, Optimate stuff works forever and some models have a desulfate cycle that can bring a near-dead battery back to health. Chances are if you've neglected your battery for months over the winter you'll need a new one.
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Jan 31, 2019 20:26
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i've accidentally killed my drz's battery again (left it keys in in park mode, not off) so i'm gonna just nut up and buy an earthx battery i think. more expensive but excellent warranty and has protections in place to prevent it from killing itself due to drain
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Jan 31, 2019 20:37
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High Protein posted:Talking about forks, I had the forks of my 701 (15k miles) at the local specialist to have the oil replaced, and the told me that the stanchions are starting to wear, as in they're being polished smooth by the sliding action. Too smooth actually means that stiction, as the fork oil needs tiny irregularities to 'catch' on. He also said it was about normal for a bike with the mileage, that Triumphs are the worst in this regard and that a 20yo Honda will have less wear as back then they could use more environmentally unfriendly chroming techniques. kashima coat or whatever other hardcoat tickles your fancy.. Revvik posted:Fantastic, thanks for the help. Yeah, it’s the S model, standard forks. USD forks are looking a little pricier because I guess swapping them is the thing, maybe I can find a nice used set. Maybe not. But I’ve got a good jumping off point now. revalve/respring/add subtanks if you're doing dual wheelsets. they're open batch cartridge and can be made to work. difference mostly between USD and conventional would be noticed on roots/rocks. USD is more rigid. if you're going supermoto, inverted is nice to have and gets you bigger brakes easier as the S forks don't really have good options. (EBC brackets causing interference issues last I checked ~2017) S/SM shocks are mostly the same with an internal spacer being different.
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Jan 31, 2019 20:49
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The Bananana posted:So I left my motorcycle in the garage during Winter and haven't really messed with it and now the battery is pretty close to dead. The lights turn on but the engine won't turn over. So what is the cheapest device I can get to plug into the house, and onto the bike to start the engine again? A new battery + a trickle charger. Get a real expensive battery so you feel really about so you don't forget to plug it in over winter. My spring ritual was buying new, cheap batteries.
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Jan 31, 2019 21:36
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I got a battery tender jr a couple years ago for christmas, that little thing is wonderful.
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Feb 1, 2019 02:10
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As Nero Danced posted:I got a battery tender jr a couple years ago for christmas, that little thing is wonderful. and it'll revive my weakened battery?
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Feb 1, 2019 02:20
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Razzled posted:i've accidentally killed my drz's battery again (left it keys in in park mode, not off) so i'm gonna just nut up and buy an earthx battery i think. more expensive but excellent warranty and has protections in place to prevent it from killing itself due to drain This is why I bought a (store-brand!) lithium battery for my KLR and I’ve found it impossible to kill.
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Feb 1, 2019 02:39
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The Bananana posted:and it'll revive my weakened battery? Hopefully, if it's not too far gone. It's done that a couple times for my motorcycle and one of my jeeps' battery, my collection of vehicles are not treated well. Just plug it in, connect the jumper cable thingies, let it trickle charge overnight and it should be topped up the next morning (might take longer with a car battery). Another thing you can do is take your battery down to a car parts shop like O'Reilly's, Advance Auto or Autozone and they should be able to test the battery to see if it's got a dead cell or anything wrong with it. They should be able to trickle charge it as well if it's not too dead. As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Feb 1, 2019 |
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Feb 1, 2019 04:28
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The Bananana posted:and it'll revive my weakened battery? It might, but you should grab one anyways. They’re super cheap and lifesavers for storage. cursedshitbox posted:kashima coat or whatever other hardcoat tickles your fancy.. I do have both wheel sets. Currently I have the EBC bracket and a bigger rotor on the front and it works? but is a total pain in the dick to get on and off.
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Feb 1, 2019 06:14
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The Bananana posted:and it'll revive my weakened battery? Park on a hill at the conclusion of your first test ride after charging it, just in case...
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Feb 2, 2019 03:27
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just got it. plugged it in, and now... we wait.
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Feb 3, 2019 23:41
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It warmed up here in western PA enough for me to take a drive on my 15 rebel. There was some salt residue left and the bike is pretty filthy now. How long do I have to wash it or are modern bikes put up with this stuff pretty good?
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Feb 4, 2019 01:04
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I'm sure a late-model bike resists decay a lot better than something older, but I'd wash that poo poo off immediately.
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Feb 4, 2019 02:30
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Wash salt off immediately. Having worked on all of my own cars in the Midwest, salt works very quickly regardless of any coatings and does significant irreversible damage. Seized fasteners suck and make a relatively simple task take much longer and more expensive.
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Feb 4, 2019 02:32
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BrownieVK posted:It warmed up here in western PA enough for me to take a drive on my 15 rebel. There was some salt residue left and the bike is pretty filthy now. How long do I have to wash it or are modern bikes put up with this stuff pretty good? Rip your alloy everything.
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Feb 4, 2019 05:16
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Just rinse it off with cold water after you finish the ride
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Feb 4, 2019 15:46
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Thanks guys, I usually run my truck through auto wash with the underbody sprayers about once a week when it's real nasty (temps permitting) I'll pull my bike out and hand wash it since it will be warm today.
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Feb 4, 2019 15:54
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Just rinse it off with cold water after you finish the ride I'm currently regretting not picking up a garden hose last summer, would make that much easier to do.
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Feb 4, 2019 15:56
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A truly ridiculous question, but batteries aren't my thing. I picked up an AGM battery (one of the ones here: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/powersports/agm-batteries) that was trickle charged to full by the dealer, but then I had to leave town before sticking it in the bike. How long will it hold a charge, just sitting in a garage? I should be back in two weeks and I'm wondering if it will still be good to go.
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Feb 6, 2019 06:13
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tirinal posted:A truly ridiculous question, but batteries aren't my thing. I picked up an AGM battery (one of the ones here: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/powersports/agm-batteries) that was trickle charged to full by the dealer, but then I had to leave town before sticking it in the bike. It's fine.
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Feb 6, 2019 06:45
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I could use a hand or some suggestions with a problem I am having. I had my battery on a tender all winter long, went to start it and got normal headlights and proper indications, turned the key, triggerd the ignition switch, heard a click and all the power shut off. I cycled the key on and off and now I have zero indication, zero lights and the appearance of no power. The batter is showing a good 12.75 vdc, the gas is fine and everything else looks good. Sounds like a blew a fuse or something? This is on a Yamaha V-Star 650. Edit: Nope all the fuses look great, might have to take the battery in to get load tested but I don't think its the battery. Rythe fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Feb 6, 2019 |
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Feb 6, 2019 22:54
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Rythe posted:I could use a hand or some suggestions with a problem I am having. I had the exact same problem, it was a gunked up key cylinder. Blew it out with WD-40. The click is just the relay sound you hear every time you turn the key. I can't explain why it's triggered by the starting circuit, perhaps a voltage drop or something, but that's exactly what happened to me.
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Feb 6, 2019 23:04
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Ola posted:I had the exact same problem, it was a gunked up key cylinder. Blew it out with WD-40. The click is just the relay sound you hear every time you turn the key. I can't explain why it's triggered by the starting circuit, perhaps a voltage drop or something, but that's exactly what happened to me. You had zero power indication and headlights too? How did you apply the wd-40, directly to the key cylinder?
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Feb 6, 2019 23:34
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Rythe posted:You had zero power indication and headlights too? How did you apply the wd-40, directly to the key cylinder? Yes, everything dark like the ignition was off. I put it on the centerstand to troubleshoot and the front wheel bumping made it blink, so I knew it was a bad connection somewhere. Jiggled the key and it worked again. Once home I sprayed WD-40 straight down the keyhole with the little straw that comes with the can. Quite a bit of oily gunk came out with the first spray.
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Feb 6, 2019 23:57
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Ola posted:Yes, everything dark like the ignition was off. I put it on the centerstand to troubleshoot and the front wheel bumping made it blink, so I knew it was a bad connection somewhere. Jiggled the key and it worked again. Once home I sprayed WD-40 straight down the keyhole with the little straw that comes with the can. Quite a bit of oily gunk came out with the first spray. I gave that a shot and nothing happened. I Ohmed the ground coming off the battery negative terminal and it came out good at 2.2ish Ohms. I am going to have the battery load tested at my local shop and make sure that is good and then start the fun process of figuring out where the voltage drop is. Crappy thing is I am a electrician by trade and can read aircraft electrical wiring diagrams with ease but a motorcycle diagram makes my eyes cross a bit.
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Feb 7, 2019 00:15
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Rythe posted:I gave that a shot and nothing happened. I Ohmed the ground coming off the battery negative terminal and it came out good at 2.2ish Ohms. I am going to have the battery load tested at my local shop and make sure that is good and then start the fun process of figuring out where the voltage drop is. Oh well, worth a shot. Chimp troubleshooting is also with trying. Ignition on, just jiggle and poke things to see if it blinks. Grunts and screeching noises optional.
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Feb 7, 2019 00:33
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Ola posted:Oh well, worth a shot. Chimp troubleshooting is also with trying. Ignition on, just jiggle and poke things to see if it blinks. Grunts and screeching noises optional. That is actually a legit way to troubleshoot stuff, it is a nice step one before you have to break into a diagram and start poking around like I know what I am doing. Thanks for the advice, I will post tomorrow what the battery condition is and start from there again.
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Feb 7, 2019 01:17
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I had the exact same problem, same symptoms to the T, documented upthread a month or so ago. It was the battery. Except for bumping it, I didn’t try that. But I figured it out by running jumper cables to my truck and hitting the starter.
HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 01:22
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I had the exact same problem, same symptoms to the T, documented upthread a month or so ago. It was the battery. Except for bumping it, I didn’t try that. But I figured it out by running jumper cables to my truck and hitting the starter. I hope it is that easy but at the same time the battery is brand new from the summer and sat on a tender through the cold months, so that would be a waste of money. I left it connected to the bike and in the garage while hooked up, is that an issue? Should it have been kept inside on the tender?
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Feb 7, 2019 01:53
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Fully charged my battery puts out 13.7v 12.75v after sitting on the tender sounds like a possible bad battery, but all of the electrics dying entirely including dashboard lights sounds like a bad connection or blown fuse somewhere.
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Feb 7, 2019 01:58
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Rythe posted:I hope it is that easy but at the same time the battery is brand new from the summer and sat on a tender through the cold months, so that would be a waste of money. I left it connected to the bike and in the garage while hooked up, is that an issue? Should it have been kept inside on the tender? I’ve never kept a battery since inside in the cold months and I got about 6 years out of my last one. Always in the bike, usually in a tender. Hopefully it’s just a ground problem for you. I went through all the relays and fuses I could figure the ignition circuit ran through when I was trying to find a bad ground, but I’m not good enough at bike electrics to have much useful to say.
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Feb 7, 2019 04:55
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Tell me what bike hitch/bike to buy! I just sold my beloved 2000 Camry, which leaves me carless, which finally opens up the path to my boyhood dream of making an adventure van. The idea is to get a 2006ish Honda Odyssey, bed in the back etc, and put a motorcycle hitch on the back. This way I could ride the bike when I wanted, or stow it on the back and ride passenger if conditions are undesirable. It also gives us an errand runner at our destination. Near as I can tell, the tongue weight limit on the Ody is 350lbs, based on 10% of the 3500lb tow limit. I honestly don't know how set in stone that is, given that the tow limit is set by the drivetrain, and I'm not towing anything. The Class 3 hitch I'm looking at takes up to 800lbs on other vehicles. In an ideal world, I'd put my DR650 on the back of the Ody, but it's easily 350lbs on it's own. Alternatives are: 1) put the Grom on the back. This appeals because honda on a honda is cute, and it's so farkled out that it's good for anything from light trails to highway. However, It doesn't "spark joy" for me like my other bikes, and I've been thinking of selling it. 2) Sell the Grom at a loss and get a TW200. This would compete with my DR650, though, and wouldn't be as fast on road as the grom. 3) Something else light and small? I know the up/down flex of a hitch carrier might be a strain, but I absolutely don't want to pull a trailer. I'd love some advice on how I can proceed.
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Feb 7, 2019 22:47
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a minivan and a grom 😂
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Feb 7, 2019 23:30
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I've seen KLR's on hitch racks, and that's over 400 pounds wet. The Odyssey might not be able to handle it, but the hitch rack definitely will.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:33
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Can't you get a North American equivalent to a transit and put the bike inside the van?
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Feb 7, 2019 23:51
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get a real car if you want to use a hitch rack. that or an econoline type box van. my 4runner can barely even haul the drz on the back
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Feb 7, 2019 23:58
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You should be able to stick a Grom and a T-dub inside. I have an Odyssey and I've brought home a couple of unrideable bikes.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:59
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| # ? May 16, 2024 07:22 |
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Coydog posted:Tell me what bike hitch/bike to buy! How committed are you to the Odyssey? I have an '04 GMC savanah (full size van) that I put three bikes in the back of + one on a hitch and it seats five. You could easily put your DR650 on the back on a hitch hauler and have more room for a bed. You'd also be driving a full size van but I would guess you could get one for cheaper so that might make up for the mileage. Or, you could put the bike inside the van and still have room for a bed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYMsbkV55fo A buddy has a metris that has a fold down cot on one side and the bike on the other. It's pretty sweet, but it sounds like maybe there's two of you and that cot sleeps one just fine but two would be pushing it. If you're committed to the odyssey, I would see if you can't get beefier rear springs/shocks but otherwise for a sub-300lbs bike you should be just fine. Or you could just get a used single rail bike trailer from advrider and keep the dr650.
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Feb 8, 2019 00:18
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