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JackMann posted:
Post the method. What would you rate the method so far? Looks like a good pint job, so if it was fast then nice.
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Feb 3, 2019 22:51
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dmnz posted:20 Night Goblins done. These guys look great! And the entirety of the banner is nicely done. I think the wood frame looks a lot better than most banners. Does seem like a lot of weight for one little goblin to carry but whatever. Also the free hand icon is nice, both the symbol and color choice. Nice to see stuff getting mixed up besides the usual black and yellow.
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Feb 3, 2019 22:53
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Got my Half-orc bard from Heroforge done. I'll probably revisit him to redo the bottles, hat and feather, but over all, I'm happy with how he turned out, even if his original 'cocky MFer' expressions turned into "mildly distressed' like most of my faces do...
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Feb 4, 2019 01:51
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Finally did a model in a weekend, been off painting for a while, apart from a few spurts.     
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Feb 4, 2019 04:29
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TheBigAristotle posted:Finally did a model in a weekend, been off painting for a while, apart from a few spurts. Great job - way to stay focused!
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Feb 4, 2019 05:40
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Cthulu Carl posted:Got my Half-orc bard from Heroforge done. I don't know just how large the model is, but fixing the expression should be pretty easy, since most of it is already there in the pose and grin. A tiny adjustment of the eyes should do it, I think. Just add a bit of green as eyelids, and you get the impression that he looks down on you - a cocky mofo indeed! Unhelpful diagram: 
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Feb 4, 2019 11:44
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Post the method. Here's the original post on Discord:  I pretty much stopped at the first paragraph. This isn't meant to be a centerpiece mini, so I didn't want to go too far on it. It's pretty good, considering the work I put into it. Primed it black, and then hit the entire model with a Reaper MSP Blade Steel drybrush. Hit select bits with a drybrush of Vallejo Tinny Tin. Then I did the stippling with red. Stippling here means putting unthinned paint on the brush and tapping it onto the model. Keep tapping to spread it around. Do this with a brush that's already basically ruined, because it will be ruined for anything else when you're done. It's pretty good for ork vehicles because you don't expect orks to be particularly neat with their paint. Once I was done, I did just a little bit of cleaning on the bits around the red. I did some washes around the steel bits. Then I drybrushed using the blade steel again and then GW necron compound. I hit various bits with typhus corrosion and some nuln oil to make it look a bit grody there. Probably about an hour or two of work, and all I have left are a few gubbins. Got another one last night, which means I just have one left to finish the set. It's pretty handy. I'll probably use it again when I work on other ork vehicles.
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Feb 4, 2019 16:09
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Bah, the price on the Start Collecting boxes went up. They used to be $85 for a box, but now all of them are $90 or $95.  I've been at a stand-still when it comes to making any progress on projects. I've been waiting for the humidity to drop so I can spray some some of the stuff I've assembled. I'm thinking about just testing it on a day where it's not super-high so I can see how it comes out. I was told that you want to spray on days where the humidity is in the 40%-50% range, but I'll probably have to wait until spring for that to be possible. Weird question: Someone gave me a little container of mica eye-shadow, thinking I could use it when painting miniatures. I didn't think it would work that well, but then I had the thought of mixing it in with something like Lahmian Medium (I don't know what the non-Citadel version of that would be) to apply it to something. Do you think that would work, or would come out looking really bad?
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Feb 5, 2019 04:22
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The non-Citadel version would be matte medium. I'm not sure how it would work, but it could be worth trying. Mix a little up, try it on a spare model or on some sprue, maybe? Also, getting a bit closer to finishing the kanz:  Still need to paint up their hoses, and I've got some more work on those rokits. Still, not too much longer until they're done. EDIT: Thinking on it, the mica eye shadow should work like Vallejo metallic medium. Mica is what they use in metallic paints. The first question is how fine the mica is. The finer it is, the smoother the metallic look of the paint. The second question is what else is in the eye shadow. If it's got other pigments, again, the question of how fine the pigments are. You might also need to mix in a little flow improver into the mix too. I think it's probably not going to give you much better results than just using metallic medium (or just metallic paints in the shades you want), but you won't know until you give it a go. JackMann fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Feb 5, 2019 |
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Feb 5, 2019 06:05
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Max Wilco posted:
Are you sure it's eye shadow and not weathering powder? Try using a sponge applicator to brush it over a black base coat and see how it looks. If you like it seal it to make it stay, if you don't strip it and try something else.
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Feb 5, 2019 06:25
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Oh yeah, I didn't think of using it that way, but you should be able to use it like any other weathering pigment.
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Feb 5, 2019 06:29
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I'd say a major question is how big the mica flakes are. Mica in scale model paint is ground pretty small (especially with Scale 75 metallics), and an overly-coarse grind is going to end up looking like scale sequins on your model.
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Feb 5, 2019 06:34
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Finished my Ratbois. They were pretty fun to paint. GW's plastics have come a long way since the last time I did anything with them.
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Feb 5, 2019 17:07
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I cannot get the axe heads to stay on Boomhowler and Co models. Spent a solid few hours trying to superglue them on with a few different glues and none of them worked. Miliput did not work. How can I assemble these so I can finally finish my oldest models? 
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Feb 5, 2019 18:15
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Serenade posted:I cannot get the axe heads to stay on Boomhowler and Co models. Spent a solid few hours trying to superglue them on with a few different glues and none of them worked. Miliput did not work. How can I assemble these so I can finally finish my oldest models? pinning
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Feb 5, 2019 18:21
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Fatkraken posted:pinning Speaking of, anybody got any tips on how to try to ensure your drill holes are straight? I pinned my first part last night and while in the end it all worked, one of the holes ended up pretty wonky. I think the first step is going to be replacing this incredibly cheap poo poo pin vise I bought with something decent since I think the bit is actually off-center in it. EDIT: Well I should say "it worked" in that everything fit and I was able to apply glue, we'll see how well it really worked when I get to Vegas, I guess. Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Feb 5, 2019 |
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Feb 5, 2019 18:26
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Inspector_666 posted:Speaking of, anybody got any tips on how to try to ensure your drill holes are straight? I pinned my first part last night and while in the end it all worked, one of the holes ended up pretty wonky. I pin one end, put some blue tak on the other, fit them together so they line up where I want them, then drill where the hole in the blue tak is.
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Feb 5, 2019 18:31
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Start the hole on one part of your model. Take some blue tac. Put it in the join (with a little water on the part that's been drilled). Squeeze the two parts together. Pull them back apart, making sure the blue tac stays with the undrilled piece. You should now have an impression of the existing hole, which will give you the angle you need to drill the other hole.
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Feb 5, 2019 18:35
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Mikey Purp posted:Just finished this base for my 40k imperial knight helverin. Basically followed the Vince Venturella's urban ruin tutorial but tried to shift the color palette a bit towards red since my dudes are all supposed to be fighting on a Mars-like planet. The helverin itself is almost done too, I'll post him when it's all put together. This didn't get enough attention. Holy poo poo this is incredible dude. I need to test this out myself.
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Feb 5, 2019 18:40
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Inspector_666 posted:Speaking of, anybody got any tips on how to try to ensure your drill holes are straight? I pinned my first part last night and while in the end it all worked, one of the holes ended up pretty wonky. Some pinning tips:
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Feb 5, 2019 19:24
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The issue was more with making sure the hole was straight once it was marked out rather than finding where to drill the hole. As in, you ideally want it to probably be perpendicular to the surface you're drilling into rather than going off at an angle.
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Feb 5, 2019 19:28
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 The tool set for pinning / magnetizing is one of the few tool sets I don't have. Back into the 'to do' pile they go.
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Feb 5, 2019 20:11
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Inspector_666 posted:The issue was more with making sure the hole was straight once it was marked out rather than finding where to drill the hole. As in, you ideally want it to probably be perpendicular to the surface you're drilling into rather than going off at an angle. I generally don't worry about it too much, so long as it's roughly straight (I just eyeball this) and the hole starts in the right position. If I didn't get the angle quite right, it's no big deal; I'll just bend the pin to the correct angle. If it's a pin that goes completely through a part (like when I'm replacing a spear shaft and running through the model's hand), I just drill halfway through each side, and then do a final drilling all the way through from one side. It should line up pretty well then.
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Feb 5, 2019 20:27
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From Games Workshop's website, I just ordered Death Guard + Paint Set, and Intercessors + Paint Set.  This is my first time painting Warhammer 40,000 figures, but last weekend I got started with painting mini's with Age of Sigmar and that was a lot of fun. My biggest problem right now is priming my mini's with a brush. I don't have an airbrush yet but I really want to get one soon. I am looking at this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/?coliid=I2PKDCU3XOYKVF&colid=21XDLHC3RLL2&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it as it is what a friend recommended, but am open to other recommendations.
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Feb 5, 2019 21:40
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I said come in! posted:From Games Workshop's website, I just ordered Death Guard + Paint Set, and Intercessors + Paint Set. If you're going that route get the deluxe set, the tank is worth it. Check the first page of this thead for more good airbrush info.
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Feb 5, 2019 21:51
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I said come in! posted:From Games Workshop's website, I just ordered Death Guard + Paint Set, and Intercessors + Paint Set. For primer, just use citadel's expensive, but effective spray can primer
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Feb 5, 2019 21:55
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TheBigAristotle posted:For primer, just use citadel's expensive, but effective spray can primer I just saw that there are spray cans for primer  I am going to go down this route to start with.
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Feb 5, 2019 21:55
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I hope you have deep pockets.
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Feb 5, 2019 22:02
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Brinty posted:I hope you have deep pockets. One can will last a verrrry long time if you paint at the speed of most people. You could easily do an army with a can.
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Feb 5, 2019 22:47
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Doctor Zero posted:One can will last a verrrry long time if you paint at the speed of most people. You could easily do an army with a can. I ran through my can of Matt Black a lot faster than I expected, and I replaced it with Rustoleum flat black which is actually matte, takes paint better (in my opinion,) and also is available locally while also costing $6 a can. Highly recommended.
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Feb 5, 2019 22:49
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JackMann posted:The non-Citadel version would be matte medium. I'm not sure how it would work, but it could be worth trying. Mix a little up, try it on a spare model or on some sprue, maybe? I have a lot of leftover sprues sitting around, so I can certainly try testing it on those. Also, those Killer Kans looks really good, and now I want to get some of those, in addition to the fifty other things I want to get. Bucnasti posted:Are you sure it's eye shadow and not weathering powder? It's this stuff here: http://www.nakedcos.com/Heavy-Metal-04_p_137.html I said come in! posted:From Games Workshop's website, I just ordered Death Guard + Paint Set, and Intercessors + Paint Set. The first couple of minis I did with brush-on primer, but apart from one, they didn't seem to come out that well. Though I haven't had a chance to use it extensively, I found that the Rustoleum 2X White Primer worked pretty well. I thought it had a bit of weird finish compared to the Citadel stuff spray, but again, I need to test it some more. Citadel Spray is pretty expensive (at $20 USD a can direct through GW). I've only gotten one can of it so far; Mechanicus Grey, which has worked well, though it has the issue of making it difficult to tell if the whole model is primed properly if the plastic itself is the same color of grey. The upside of the sprays that I've seen is that if you decide on a specific army or faction you want to paint, you can get a can in that color and save yourself some trouble with base painting (although I've heard you still need to paint over the spray with the same color sometimes to get the right texture). Army Painter also sells cans of spray primer, and they seem to have a wider range of colors. They don't seem to have a gold spray (whereas GW has the Retributor Armor spray), and I don't know how well colors would match between the two brands. Also, it may be different now, but when I got the Death Guard paint box (it wasn't bundled with the minis then, only the Intercessors had paint+mini combo box), I found that the jars weren't as full as they are when you buy them individually. Then again, that could have just been a fluke with the box I bought. Inspector_666 posted:I ran through my can of Matt Black a lot faster than I expected, and I replaced it with Rustoleum flat black which is actually matte, takes paint better (in my opinion,) and also is available locally while also costing $6 a can. Highly recommended. I remember looking for Rustoleum Matte Black, but I couldn't find it at the hardware store. Maybe it's something I'll have to get online. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Feb 6, 2019 |
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Feb 6, 2019 03:07
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These are great Picked them up at Canadian tire, like 5 cdn each Btw if you want cheap kill team barricades the battle for hoth star wars terrain is pretty cheap and perfect for 40k.  
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Feb 6, 2019 03:39
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Finished painting the kanz! Now I just need to base and seal them and I'll have another full unit completed for my orks.
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Feb 6, 2019 04:51
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Doctor Zero posted:One can will last a verrrry long time if you paint at the speed of most people. You could easily do an army with a can. I just meant getting into this stupid hobby in general
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Feb 6, 2019 13:33
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Brinty posted:I just meant getting into this stupid hobby in general tl;dr:  + 
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Feb 6, 2019 15:23
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Mini painting doesn't seem much more expensive than video games, and is arguably a healthier hobby unless you like sniffing the paints and glue.
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Feb 6, 2019 16:24
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How many Heated Painting Moments are there? Probably a lot but they're not caught on camera.
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Feb 6, 2019 16:39
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Pierzak posted:Well, the entry cost is not that hi...oh who am I kidding. I think I broke the "not buying more poo poo than I paint" over a hundred times now, paints multiply just like minis (I just have to buy the olive wash, oh right I need the purple too, oh they have iridescent paints - better get a set while they're available, and modeling putty with thin applicator, etc. etc.). And it only gets worse, spending a large sum on a top-quality airbrush might seem like investing in a tool that will last you a decade or more, but it's also an excuse: "Why not buy a whole set of 100+ dedicated airbrush paints, they're cheaper than the airbrushing setup and I'll paint faster (when I get around to it sometime next century)". I used to think this hobby was super expensive, but now that I'm a middle aged guy with a decent job I realize how cheap it really is compared to what my peers are doing. I feel like I spend pretty freely on models and hobby stuff these days but I haven't spent nearly as much in my entire life as some of the guys I work with spend on greens fees to golf in a single year. Or buying a dirt bike to off road, or Cochella tickets every year. And this is something I get to enjoy almost daily. My dollars to enjoyment ratio is infinitely higher than theirs.
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Feb 6, 2019 16:44
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Bucnasti posted:I used to think this hobby was super expensive, but now that I'm a middle aged guy with a decent job I realize how cheap it really is compared to what my peers are doing. This is me as well, I am in my 30s but have a job that gives me a lot of financial privilege.
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Feb 6, 2019 16:47
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I was clipping off the tabs from a Chinesium resin recast recently and the smells coming out of that thing were somewhat concerning  I know people say to wear a mask when you're sanding down resin, but even cutting big chunks is probably killing my brain
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Feb 6, 2019 17:16
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