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Thanatosian posted:Depending on the state, the fault for the accident with the lady in front of you may very well be yours. In a lot of places, you did not leave sufficient distance between you and her, therefore you rear-ended her. This is incorrect. I have never once seen a claim where someone who got rear ended hard enough to go into the car in front gets any liability. The proximate cause is the last guy in the back in this case. They’ll ask the front lady how many impacts she felt - if she just felt one, it’s the guy in the backs fault. I’ve seen plenty where someone rear ends the first car, then gets rear ended themselves, with differing levels of speed involved. That’s a different story. Where do you draw the line in your example? A semi blasts you at 60mph and you get pushed into the car in front of you (along with a dozen more). By this logic you’d be at fault because you didn’t leave 2 football fields of distance. Nobody is busting out a matrix to say ok, your car weighs 3,028 lbs, you’re 200 lbs, the truck that hit you weighs 6,239lbs with 4 passengers totaling 732lbs, the road surface is concrete and it was dry, that means your car should have only been pushed 3.8ft ergo you were too close and now share some percentage of the fault. I realize this is a ludicrously exaggerated example but it’s illustrating my point that situations like these are not left up in the air, because it set an insurer up for all sorts of bad things (legal action, brand risk, etc). You should absolutely report this to your insurance because 1) it’s in your contract to do so, and if you don’t you can jeopardize your right to recover damages from your policy 2) because the at fault party may not have enough liability (or any!) to cover the damages, especially since multiple cars are damaged, requiring you to use your own coverage 3) your insurer, despite what people say, will be looking out for their own insured much more than the other company. Plus, if your car is totaled then you can have both your company and the others do an inspection and take the higher of the two values, assuming they accept liability and have enough coverage.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:18
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Hello i used to handle claims (in all states) and never once did I put any fault on a driver that was stopped at a light and hit from behind and pushed into another car by the force of the impact.
sheri fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 23:36
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sheri posted:Hello i used to handle claims (in all states) and never once did I put any fault on a driver that was stopped at a light and hit from behind and pushed into another car by the force of the impact. You're doing the lord's work, goon.
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Feb 8, 2019 03:37
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Thanks to everyone who chimed in. My instinct was just to tell my insurance company what happened because I’m just that kind of person, so thanks for the re-assurance. The guy at fault had already called his insurance and they already knew about the whole thing so when I called they were like, yeah you’re good he’s at fault let us know if we need to fix anything.
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Feb 10, 2019 22:39
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dexter6 posted:Thanks to everyone who chimed in. My instinct was just to tell my insurance company what happened because I’m just that kind of person, so thanks for the re-assurance. If you have paint damage on your bumper you could likely settle out your claims for a $500 check on his insurance with 0 claim on yours.
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Feb 10, 2019 22:47
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I have Ohio medicaid. After many years, I finally have a place to stay and a stable job situation. I'm not going to qualify for medicaid soon. Do any of you know when medicaid is revoked? Is it revoked at the time you cross the pay threshold or is it revoked based on tax return?
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Feb 24, 2019 20:04
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Smoking Crow posted:I have Ohio medicaid. After many years, I finally have a place to stay and a stable job situation. I'm not going to qualify for medicaid soon. Do any of you know when medicaid is revoked? Is it revoked at the time you cross the pay threshold or is it revoked based on tax return? In Oregon you are required to tell them if your income situation changes, and I believe it is a month by month thing. You should contact your Medicaid office and find out.
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Feb 24, 2019 20:20
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Update: I checked in with the Medicaid office and they said I still qualify because of disability, so I still get to be insured
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Feb 27, 2019 03:01
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Does any insurance company sell brokerage accout insurance? Meaning insuring my 401k or other accounts against someone hacking it and steal its contents? I've been searching a lot, and even called 2 insurance companies but no luck,. FDIC I think covers loss of a bank account via hacking, but SIPC does not, unless it also resulted in the brokerage firm going out of business. Brokerage houses like Fidelity, Vangaurd, TD Ameritrade say they will conver hacking losses if you take "resonable" protection (not sharing passwords, etc). I found "cyber" or Identity Theft insurance, but that covers lawyer and credit repair cost, but I don't think it covers direct loss of securities. It's weird it doesn't seem to exist. I can get insurance if someone steals by car or TV, but not 100 shares of VTI? I'd assume one would have to file a brokerage statement every month or quarter or something, like when you have a rider for specific items in your house. Or is it "impossible" to steal brokerage securities since they are registed in my name/identity, and could be recovered if I prove it wasn't me that moved them?
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Mar 27, 2019 14:32
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PowerBuilder3 posted:Does any insurance company sell brokerage accout insurance? Meaning insuring my 401k or other accounts against someone hacking it and steal its contents? I've been searching a lot, and even called 2 insurance companies but no luck,. I had gotten worried about this with a coworker myself and did some investigating and it turns out the security holders have most of the distance to go here. I think you'll hear about some high profile losses at some point and it will change the protocol but for now people don't seem to be targeting this stuff.
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Mar 27, 2019 21:07
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:I had gotten worried about this with a coworker myself and did some investigating and it turns out the security holders have most of the distance to go here. I think you'll hear about some high profile losses at some point and it will change the protocol but for now people don't seem to be targeting this stuff. I've searched half the day again, and the closest I've found is LifeLock Ultimate Plus includes up to 1 million in "stolen funds reimbusment". Many other like-products offer 1 millon "identity recovery costs" which isn't the same thing. I've also found that Wire Transfer Fraud appears to be the biggest issue with banks/brokerage/travel payments/house purchase loss. Either you are tricked into transfering to a false account, or they trick the institution into thinking they are you and doing a transfer. I can't tell if that is "covered" by the LifeLock or the brokerage guarantees or not. Update: I just found Zander Insurance I think has this coverage: https://www.zanderins.com/identity-theft-protection/fraud-reimbursement-benefits which includes acutal loss reimbursement. I emailed for $ limits. PowerBuilder3 fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Mar 28, 2019 |
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Mar 28, 2019 12:10
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PowerBuilder3 posted:Does any insurance company sell brokerage accout insurance? Meaning insuring my 401k or other accounts against someone hacking it and steal its contents? I've been searching a lot, and even called 2 insurance companies but no luck,. It's a type of property insurance (crime and fraud) and data breach, fraud, etc. digital crime coverages are still fairly rare. You'll have to go to a specialty carrier, likely an E&S market - I wish I had some examples off of the top of my head but I work in commercial lines so my knowledge of highly specialized personal lines is honestly lacking. There's even insurance for crypto but it's an insane clusterfuck and the claim handling is more or less a nightmare. AXA/XL Catlin has a program for commercial but I doubt they have anything personal/small scale.
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Apr 7, 2019 21:30
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13Pandora13 posted:It's a type of property insurance (crime and fraud) and data breach, fraud, etc. digital crime coverages are still fairly rare. You'll have to go to a specialty carrier, likely an E&S market - I wish I had some examples off of the top of my head but I work in commercial lines so my knowledge of highly specialized personal lines is honestly lacking. I can't even imagine how you write crypto. The entire market is volatile and there is about zero historical data, so it must just be a SWAG for everything - underwriting, rating, claims handling, etc.
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Apr 7, 2019 23:11
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My 2008 Prius was rear-ended a few weeks ago. The other driver was assigned fault and their insurance, State Farm, decided to total the car since the $4800 estimated cost of repairs was >75% of the value of the car. I decided to take the payout since I found some 2007 and 2008 replacements that have a similar trim and substantially less miles than my 148k for the payout amount, and I didn’t want to deal with a salvaged title. That said, I wonder if I made a mistake and could’ve gotten more, though all my coworkers who’ve had totaled cars said insurance didn’t budge on their offers. I initially checked Autotrader and thought they may have lowballed me by $1000 or so but it was hard to compare because my car had the highest trim but also way more mileage. But checking Cargurus, which came closer but still didn’t find a direct comparable, their offer of $5950 seemed reasonable. In fact, if you put in all the accessory package of my car into Kelly Blue Book and take the average of the “Very Good” and “Good” condition ratings, it’s spot on their offer. I didn’t accept their offer right away, but when I called back a day later they were able to “up” their offer by $300 by giving me Georgia’s 8.9% tax rate, where the car is registered, as opposed to Virginia’s 4.15% tax rate, where I just moved to. I’m also seeing if I can get some compensation for time lost to this whole ordeal. I estimate 25 hours based on call logs and time spent on research so far, but that process hasn’t started yet. Side question, if I keep the same specs except I just change the model year, KBB drops by $1400 for a 2007 but only raises by $600 for a 2009. Why are they so different? The 2007-09 Priuses basically had no changes. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Apr 18, 2019 |
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Apr 18, 2019 05:46
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I bought a property that I plan to use as a second residence and rental. 1 of the bedrooms will be (primarily) saved for my use(though i might occasionally rent it). The other 2 bedrooms will be rented out in either an airbnb or month-to-month rental. This property is a foreclosure(former) that I am first fixing up before doing any of the above, however I need to get insurance on it(and soon to avoid "lapse"). Do I insure as a second home or as an investment property/rental?
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Apr 20, 2019 13:19
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lord1234 posted:I bought a property that I plan to use as a second residence and rental. 1 of the bedrooms will be (primarily) saved for my use(though i might occasionally rent it). The other 2 bedrooms will be rented out in either an airbnb or month-to-month rental. You're going to need to insure it as a vacant property first. Sit down before opening your first rate quote for that product.
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Apr 20, 2019 16:35
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Motronic posted:You're going to need to insure it as a vacant property first. Sit down before opening your first rate quote for that product. Vacant assumes all furniture is out. That's not the case. This place will be furnished and I/other's will be there regularly
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Apr 20, 2019 19:31
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lord1234 posted:Vacant assumes all furniture is out. That's not the case. This place will be furnished and I/other's will be there regularly You need to talk to a broker about this as these little details are going to matter. Vacant can mean not occupied for x days.
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Apr 20, 2019 20:07
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Josh Lyman posted:My 2008 Prius was rear-ended a few weeks ago. The other driver was assigned fault and their insurance, State Farm, decided to total the car since the $4800 estimated cost of repairs was >75% of the value of the car. I decided to take the payout since I found some 2007 and 2008 replacements that have a similar trim and substantially less miles than my 148k for the payout amount, and I didn’t want to deal with a salvaged title. Most people vastly overestimate the condition of their vehicle - "very good" is pretty rare, especially for a high mileage car. The payout seems reasonable to me.
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Apr 20, 2019 22:40
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lord1234 posted:Vacant assumes all furniture is out. That's not the case. This place will be furnished and I/other's will be there regularly The underwriters don't seem to care about the distinction between unoccupied and vacant. I've been going through this with a place being reno'ed recently.
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Apr 21, 2019 13:53
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Josh Lyman posted:My 2008 Prius was rear-ended a few weeks ago. The other driver was assigned fault and their insurance, State Farm, decided to total the car since the $4800 estimated cost of repairs was >75% of the value of the car. I decided to take the payout since I found some 2007 and 2008 replacements that have a similar trim and substantially less miles than my 148k for the payout amount, and I didn’t want to deal with a salvaged title. Hey there, I handle lots of total losses. 1) $4800 seems like a very reasonable offer for the vehicle- if you have any questions about the valuation, most major insurers use Mitchell to aggregate values. Mitchell generally uses JD Power and Associates to find values- these are always going to be dealership sales, if it's common vehicle, it's going to be within 75 miles of your home address. I believe only USAA pays straight NADA. Private listings aren't (and usually shouldn't) be taken into account unless the vehicle is collector/rare/antique. 1a) You should ALWAYS ask for ACV breakdowns from your insurer (Note that these will not include the sales tax or title transfer fees). Adjusters are people too and make mistakes. Sometimes, there are anomalies or mistakes in the comparable vehicles- ie, a vehicle listed for much less than others (if there are 20+ comparables it's easy to miss). 2) They absolutely should have paid you the tax where the vehicle was registered- you are owed for that. Were plates on the car when it was inspected? That should have been factored in initially and was probably the result of a lazy/unobservant field rep. 3) You're not going to get a dime for time spent researching. When a settlement offer is presented to you (in good faith), the insurer was fulfilled their legal duties. If you want to contest the value of the vehicle offered to you, then you are responsible for finding comparable vehicles, etc. You can try, but unless you're a licensed independent adjuster, you're not going to get anything (and even then it's iffy) 4) KBB is a godawful resource and I wish people would quit using it- KBB uses nationwide sales averages so car prices have massive ranges and are entirely messed up- the price you are offered is market value for your area- for instance, 4-wheel drive vehicles are going to sell for more in Colorado/Utah/Minnesota/Wisconsin versus a place like Florida. I'll pop into the thread periodically- if anybody has any auto claim questions I'd be happy to assist.
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Apr 27, 2019 02:21
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Homeowners isn't my realm so hoping one of y'all will know this: a friend of mine purchased a home and there's some very clear cut non-disclosure fraud (house has bedbugs everywhere and termites in the attic of the carriage house, when they had the pest control guy out he said he'd been out there like a month ago and told the prior owners about the infestation and they refused to get it treated because it was $2500), NC disclosure form explicitly includes known infestation - I know the actual infestation isn't going to be coverable, but is there any possibility of coverage for the legal expenses he'll incur taking the seller to court?
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May 1, 2019 20:15
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13Pandora13 posted:Homeowners isn't my realm so hoping one of y'all will know this: a friend of mine purchased a home and there's some very clear cut non-disclosure fraud (house has bedbugs everywhere and termites in the attic of the carriage house, when they had the pest control guy out he said he'd been out there like a month ago and told the prior owners about the infestation and they refused to get it treated because it was $2500), NC disclosure form explicitly includes known infestation - I know the actual infestation isn't going to be coverable, but is there any possibility of coverage for the legal expenses he'll incur taking the seller to court? So stupid question: did they already close on the house? Didn't they get a termite inspection prior to closing? Pretty standard, and I think lenders require it around here. I mean fraud is fraud, but this should have come up prior to closing. Definitely have your friend consult with a local lawyer. I don't think homeowners insurance would cover legal fees for something that isn't covered under the policy. Your friend needs to make sure they have ALL the paperwork available before they talk to anyone, just on the off chance that people disappear once lawyers get involved. Get the disclosure scanned/e-mailed if it hasn't been already, and get the pest company to provide copies of previous invoices/estimates that were given to the previous owner. If those don't exist, have the pest company send a statement to that effect on official company letterhead and e-mailed from an official company e-mail address. It's not official testimony, but it's better than nothing. Make sure your friend doesn't settle with the previous owner before talking with a lawyer. They could miss out on some major issues/compensation by doing so. There's likely a bunch of unseen damage from the termites that is going to cost a small fortune to fix. I don't remember if the NC disclosure covers bedbugs, but it sure as poo poo covers termites. Honestly this is like a dream scenario for a legal case. You can lie out your rear end on a disclosure form and as long as nobody can prove you knew about it, you'll get away scot free. But your friend got lucky and found evidence that the previous owners knew, so if the pest control company is on board with testifying then this has got to be a sure winner. Now whether they'll get enough to cover legal fees is another story, but a lawyer will be able to coach them on this. It'll probably settle out of court, but your friend will need to make sure a lawyer is involved to make sure EVERYTHING is covered that needs to be. Seriously this is probably going to cost A LOT more than the $2,500 treatment. It's absolutely worth the legal expenses to get a consult at minimum. A lawyer would also be able to say if homeowners insurance would cover legal fees.
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May 3, 2019 13:19
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DaveSauce posted:So stupid question: did they already close on the house? Didn't they get a termite inspection prior to closing? Pretty standard, and I think lenders require it around here. I mean fraud is fraud, but this should have come up prior to closing. They're closed and moved in - thought their kids had chickenpox despite being vaccinated and NOPE bedbugs. The NC disclosure includes infestation (broad wording) as well as specifically termites. Their termite inspector didn't check in the attic to the in-law carriagehouse because he "couldn't find an access." There's so many levels of fuckery on this house it's insane, I told him to lawyer up ASAP because if this was hidden there's 1000% other poo poo wrong with the house too.
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May 12, 2019 23:09
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My wife and I are considering life insurance. We've always had a minimum plan through our jobs which was fine. Now we moved to Spain and don't, so we want to set something up. Anyone know how US insurance companies feel about people living abroad? We do plan on moving back eventually, maybe as soon as 2-3 years. Or should we look into our options from local companies?
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May 30, 2019 09:53
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This is a bit basic, but google was no help. I left my job on May 24th, insurance terminated on the 31st. On the 27th I signed up for the state's exchange for a policy to start June 1st. They told me I would be able to register and pay for my first premium after getting a letter in the mail. Cut to today. I get a letter from the insurance firm -- telling me I'm not covered due to non-payment of my premium. Thankfully the info I needed to register was on that form. I registered, logged in, and immediately made a payment. The site currently says "policy voided and no longer active due to non-payment of binder payment, please make payment immediately to avoid cancellation of your policy." I assume that will go away once the payment hits their accounts, and everything will be hunky dory. My question is, when is my insurance active, and to what period of time does it apply? The moment the transfer completes? The moment I hit "submit" on the payment? Or is it retroactive to the 1st?
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Jun 7, 2019 23:40
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Not a Children posted:This is a bit basic, but google was no help. I left my job on May 24th, insurance terminated on the 31st. On the 27th I signed up for the state's exchange for a policy to start June 1st. They told me I would be able to register and pay for my first premium after getting a letter in the mail. Call and ask. It should be June 1. Email yourself the date, time, name of the person you talked to, and the reference number you ask them for when the call starts. "Hi, the website said to wait for payment information in the mail, however the first letter I got from you after signing up was a notice of non-payment. I've now paid. Is my insurance active as of June 1, 2019 assuming the payment clears? Will my payment be flagged as late in the system anywhere including credit reporting agencies?" If they answer Yes and No respectively, thank them and hang up. If you have any issues with coverage, refer to that reference number and say you relied on that information. Until they've told you differently, that is what they are bound by. If the answers are No or Yes respectively be polite but firm until they fix it to the above answers.
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Jun 8, 2019 00:15
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I'm about to get invisalign and we are in open enrollment right now, so my plan was to get a HDHP with a HSA and limited use FSA, will max out both accounts (HSA: $3500, FSA: $2700). Employer pays all insurance premiums 100% and all HSA/FSA contributions are out of pocket. Am I correct in thinking that selecting the HDHP and max HSA/FSA contributions will work out more favorably than a PPO and FSA? Haven't managed to find a calculator that compares a PPO with FSA vs HDHP with HSA and limited FSA. The two plans are below, and let me know if more numbers are needed to compare. PPO: $321/month, $6350 deductible, 100% coinsurance HDHP: $400/month, $3000, deductible, 90% coinsurance
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Jun 11, 2019 01:35
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air- posted:I'm about to get invisalign and we are in open enrollment right now, so my plan was to get a HDHP with a HSA and limited use FSA, will max out both accounts (HSA: $3500, FSA: $2700). Employer pays all insurance premiums 100% and all HSA/FSA contributions are out of pocket. What is your dental insurance? This reads like health insurance. And what is their orthodontia coverage? Basically whatever is leftover from that will be what you pay for from fsa/hsa. They might only cover the cost of normal braces, or nothing at all of invisiline. Have your orthodontist call on your current insurance and ask about the costs / pricing.
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Jun 11, 2019 01:50
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H110Hawk posted:What is your dental insurance? This reads like health insurance. And what is their orthodontia coverage? Basically whatever is leftover from that will be what you pay for from fsa/hsa. Forgot to add that in - My dental insurance covers $1500 for orthodontia and my out of pocket for invisalign will be about $6000. The idea was clear out the use/lose FSA first then the HSA, taking advantage of pretax contributions on each. Plus I know I spend about $1000 a year on various medical expenses that is covered on the HSA. air- fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2019 02:04
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Not to derail, but have you checked Smile Direct? Significantly cheaper.
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Jun 11, 2019 02:11
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Not willing to do it. After the research, I felt much more comfortable working with an orthodontist.
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Jun 11, 2019 02:33
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I have a HDHP + HSA and will be taking a short trip out of the US to Mexico. My health plan includes coverage overseas but I'm a bit confused about the potential need for additional travel medical insurance and the layers of primary vs secondary. i.e. My deductible is $3k, my out-of-pocket max is $6k. If I sprain my ankle and have a $2k medical bill, would that be covered by secondary travel health insurance or do I need to seek out an option specifically listed as primary? What about if I get stung by a stingray or whatever and have a much larger $40k hospital bill, should I expect to pay $6k of that based off my HDHP's out-of-pocket maximum or would the $20 travel insurance I'm looking at step in to save me that expense?
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Jun 12, 2019 18:56
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Poco posted:Hey there, I handle lots of total losses. My wife’s car got smashed up today so we’re having to deal with the other party’s insurance. We’re all good as far as fault because my wife’s car was parked and she was at work. I know they’re towing it to a lot to have someone look at it tomorrow. We had it towed to our place. I guess we’ll be waiting on what the claims adjuster has to say but you can’t even open the hood because the cable to the latch got cut and the frame is hosed along with the bumper being inside of the radiator now. Spoke with a few people that I know that work with vehicles and they said to expect to deal with a total loss just based on visual damage. Any tips for minimizing the loving that progressive auto is going to try and give me?
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Jun 14, 2019 01:24
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Got a couple of questions about US based insurance (I'm in Aus, so forgive if I seem dumb). So I'm trying to understand the different types of insurance there. Here in Aus I have: - Health insurance (public and private) - Life Insurance (term) - Income Protection (Pays me if I'm disabled or injured) In the US, I'm figuring out what I'm going to need: - Health Insurance (paid through employer/pre-tax) - Life insurance (term - I gather whole life is poo poo) - Long-Term Disability I think Long-Term Disability is the same as my Income Protection, in that it pays me if I'm disabled or injured. My question is: - Do people usually get long-term disability and life insurance through their employer? - Where does dental insurance fit into this? I gather that's not usually included in most health plans. Thanks 
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Jun 14, 2019 04:57
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my bat mitzvah ROCKED posted:My wife’s car got smashed up today so we’re having to deal with the other party’s insurance. We’re all good as far as fault because my wife’s car was parked and she was at work. I know they’re towing it to a lot to have someone look at it tomorrow. We had it towed to our place. I guess we’ll be waiting on what the claims adjuster has to say but you can’t even open the hood because the cable to the latch got cut and the frame is hosed along with the bumper being inside of the radiator now. Spoke with a few people that I know that work with vehicles and they said to expect to deal with a total loss just based on visual damage. Cooperate. The adjuster wants to close your claim as much as you do. If they tell you to take it to a shop, ask them for a shop in their partner network. This will save you a ton of headache down the road if anything is funky with the repairs. If they decide to total it and give you an offer, ask for the valuation report. Make sure all the options are checked that match your actual vehicle. If you really hate their offer or don't understand it, post again. Virtue fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 05:15
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CelestialScribe posted:Got a couple of questions about US based insurance (I'm in Aus, so forgive if I seem dumb). Whole life: "poo poo" is a strong word but it's usually not ideal for most people. LTD and life: Sometimes but even if they do, many people want more coverage so they either buy up through their employers plan (especially if you can do this pretax) or hit the private markets. Dental is separate from health and usually easy to shop around for yourself. The coverage is generally awful for anything other than routine cleanings and minor fillings though.
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Jun 14, 2019 05:18
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Virtue posted:Whole life: "poo poo" is a strong word but it's usually not ideal for most people. Thanks! Which would you recommend re: LTD and life? Pre-tax if you can?
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Jun 14, 2019 06:13
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CelestialScribe posted:My question is: The upside of getting LTD through your employer is that the policies are usually priced for the group rather than the individual based on his/her medical condition, so if you have a bunch of pre-existing conditions that would make it prohibitively expensive to insure yourself as an individual, you can get in on the group policy. The downside is, the coverage goes away once you're no longer employed. I think you can still file a claim if you get become disabled while employed and the coverage in effect, but not if you become disabled the day after you're fired (or maybe the end of the month depending on the termination date of the policy). If you buy a disability insurance policy yourself, you can only do it post-tax. The upside is that your disability benefits aren't taxable income in the event that you need to start collecting. If you're getting it through work and it's pre-tax, then the disability benefits are taxable income. This is bad because disability insurance replaces a fixed percentage of your income and pre- and post-tax benefits are based off the same percentage of your pre-tax income, so if your benefits are taxable, you get less money overall. One major thing to look for when shopping for disability insurance is what the policy considers disability to be; is it that you can no longer work in your own occupation or is it that you can no longer work in any occupation? In the former case, if you become too disabled to do your current job, you can still get your benefits even if you can work as a greeter in a Walmart; the latter case, not so much.
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Jun 14, 2019 07:18
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Cool, thanks for the help.
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Jun 14, 2019 08:29
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