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Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer

Serenade posted:

How many Heated Painting Moments are there? Probably a lot but they're not caught on camera.

I'm honestly surprised I didn't throw my incepters in the garbage disposal.

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berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Eifert Posting posted:

I'm honestly surprised I didn't throw my incepters in the garbage disposal.

Uh oh. Why is that? I'm going to be putting mine together soon.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer

berzerkmonkey posted:

Uh oh. Why is that? I'm going to be putting mine together soon.

A bunch of nooks and crannies, really awkward to paint.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods
x-posting

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

TheBigAristotle posted:

I was clipping off the tabs from a Chinesium resin recast recently and the smells coming out of that thing were somewhat concerning :ohdear:

I know people say to wear a mask when you're sanding down resin, but even cutting big chunks is probably killing my brain

Yeah, some of the Chinaman stuff can be pretty rank. Best way I've found to cut down on that is to stash it somewhere uncovered and let it de-stank for a day or two. Sheds, basements, pretty much anywhere there can be some ventilation and people don't often go would be the best place.

Of course, still wear a mask anyway even after that, because you never know exactly what may be in that particular resin mix. A full-face respirator is nice, but maybe a bit overkill, depending upon how many models you're working on.

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Post / avatar combo

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
loving phone double posted.
Edit: lovely photo content

dexefiend fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Feb 6, 2019

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
That moment when you use project management software (Trello) to manage your painting queue.



Seeing all of my queued projects laid out like this was helpful, eye-opening and panic inducing all at once! Moving forward I think this will help me stay productive and also serve as a good deterrent from acquiring more minis.

Deified Data
Nov 3, 2015


Fun Shoe

Serenade posted:

How many Heated Painting Moments are there? Probably a lot but they're not caught on camera.

I paint half nude a lot, which is probably not something I would stream. Probably.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Bucnasti posted:

I used to think this hobby was super expensive, but now that I'm a middle aged guy with a decent job I realize how cheap it really is compared to what my peers are doing.
I feel like I spend pretty freely on models and hobby stuff these days but I haven't spent nearly as much in my entire life as some of the guys I work with spend on greens fees to golf in a single year. Or buying a dirt bike to off road, or Cochella tickets every year. And this is something I get to enjoy almost daily. My dollars to enjoyment ratio is infinitely higher than theirs.
Yeah sure, I have a friend whose hobby is collecting and restoring classic cars. I'm also from a sailing family, and there's a saying that "a boat is a hole in the water you pour money into". I fully realize that there are vastly more expensive hobbies. My point is that this one is deceptively cheap at the beginning - just get a brush and a few paints and minis for now! That's how they get you.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!

I said come in! posted:

Mini painting doesn't seem much more expensive than video games, and is arguably a healthier hobby unless you like sniffing the paints and glue.

+1 to this, part of the reason I got back into it last year was I started full time job as a computer toucher person and my main hobby was... Playing computer games. I needed something that was nerdy as poo poo but also did not involve staring at a screen. Also I already had a bunch of stuff for it from years ago so there was a really low entry bar.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Mikey Purp posted:

That moment when you use project management software (Trello) to manage your painting queue.



Seeing all of my queued projects laid out like this was helpful, eye-opening and panic inducing all at once! Moving forward I think this will help me stay productive and also serve as a good deterrent from acquiring more minis.

oh gently caress i gotta update my kanban thanks for reminding me

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib


Finished and based the kanz! I've got some other ork vehicles in the works for later, so I wanted to give this a go so I'm not totally flailing when I make road bases for my bikes and skrapjets.

Crab-Stuffed
Jul 24, 2006

I did it, I painted a thing!!!

This was my first time trying OSL and I was terrified. I ruined the brass highlighting on his axe, but the effect looks pretty cool. I tried painting inside the runes, but they're so drat tiny! Also, I can't get the hang of my new photo booth (or settings on my phone cam). The lighting seems a little... off? Like too stark? Any tips?











Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
I painted a thing. Think most everyone has seen this but here it is anyway.

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

Deified Data posted:

I paint half nude a lot, which is probably not something I would stream. Probably.

I mean if you are attractive and paint like a pro streaming half naked could could generate two income streams

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Crab-Stuffed, holy poo poo! :eyepop:

You're being too harsh on yourself, that painting is breathtaking.

Crab-Stuffed
Jul 24, 2006

I said come in! posted:

Crab-Stuffed, holy poo poo! :eyepop:

You're being too harsh on yourself, that painting is breathtaking.

Thank you so much! These reactions make it worth it! :love:

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Crab-Stuffed posted:

Thank you so much! These reactions make it worth it! :love:

I hope I can paint that well. It's the sort of thing that made me get into Warhammer painting. I just started last week. :3:

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!

Crab-Stuffed posted:

I did it, I painted a thing!!!

This was my first time trying OSL and I was terrified. I ruined the brass highlighting on his axe, but the effect looks pretty cool. I tried painting inside the runes, but they're so drat tiny! Also, I can't get the hang of my new photo booth (or settings on my phone cam). The lighting seems a little... off? Like too stark? Any tips?
You could do with some more radiant light on the rest of the figure. Especially when there are a lot of metallic surfaces, you'll get glints of light on them a long way away from the source of the light. Also, the source of the light isn't any brighter than the light it's casting, which isn't how light works. And it doesn't seem to be casting much int he way of shadows.

In short, the reason this look a little off is because your light isn't working like light, so it just looks... blue.

Mine aren't amazing either tbh, but compare:



They show the main principles: the source of the light is the brightest thing, the light radiates well out past the source, it casts shadows (the shadow on the base of the minotaur is painted on, not real) and some areas of metal, particularly in the gravedigger, catch glints of light from much further away than the rest of the figure. I messed that part up on the Minotaur's shield rim though.

In short, go a lot harder than you think you need to, because lighting on miniatures always tends to look under-done. Soo to get bright lights and shadows you need *really* bright lights and shadows.

And think like a raytracing engine. Find the point your light is coming from, and draw straight lines out from it in 3D space to find where the light hits, noting that the light gets a LOT weaker the further away from the source you get; it falls off exponentially. But also that more reflective surfaces will appear brighter, though no reflection should ever be brighter than the source.

thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Feb 7, 2019

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



I finished some reinforcements for my Necron kill team, Lefty and Righty:







Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 5 days!


Finished up an old Reaper mini that's been sitting in a box of unpainted minis for literally over a decade. Not my best work (and I just spotted some touchups I'll need to do on the rim of the base), but I wanted to focus more on getting minis done and ready for the table than on super high quality paintjobs, so in that regard I think it turned out pretty OK. :)

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

I got some of those figures where the pieces snap on, idiot me accidentally cut off the pieces that snap the arms on. :P But now I am forced to learn how to glue pieces together which is a skill I should really get to know and fast if I want to continue this hobby.

Crab-Stuffed
Jul 24, 2006

thespaceinvader posted:



They show the main principles: the source of the light is the brightest thing, the light radiates well out past the source, it casts shadows (the shadow on the base of the minotaur is painted on, not real) and some areas of metal, particularly in the gravedigger, catch glints of light from much further away than the rest of the figure. I messed that part up on the Minotaur's shield rim though.

In short, go a lot harder than you think you need to, because lighting on miniatures always tends to look under-done. Soo to get bright lights and shadows you need *really* bright lights and shadows.

And think like a raytracing engine. Find the point your light is coming from, and draw straight lines out from it in 3D space to find where the light hits, noting that the light gets a LOT weaker the further away from the source you get; it falls off exponentially. But also that more reflective surfaces will appear brighter, though no reflection should ever be brighter than the source.
This is amazing advice, thank you! That grave digger looks boss.

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

I said come in! posted:

I got some of those figures where the pieces snap on, idiot me accidentally cut off the pieces that snap the arms on. :P But now I am forced to learn how to glue pieces together which is a skill I should really get to know and fast if I want to continue this hobby.

I did the same thing when I first got the easy-build plague marines. I thought it was just extra sprue.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
I keep thinking about getting one of the Start Collecting boxes. Even though the prices for them have gone up, it still seems like a pretty good deal since you get a few different types of minis for less than if you bought them individually.

I was thinking about maybe getting the Skitarri box, though they seem like they have a lot of small details, and it seems like a lot of the 'canon' paint schemes are variants of red.

Does anyone know why the price of the Start Collecting boxes went up in price? I did a cursory search, and one thing I read was that the price of materials went up recently.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

Max Wilco posted:

I keep thinking about getting one of the Start Collecting boxes. Even though the prices for them have gone up, it still seems like a pretty good deal since you get a few different types of minis for less than if you bought them individually.

I was thinking about maybe getting the Skitarri box, though they seem like they have a lot of small details, and it seems like a lot of the 'canon' paint schemes are variants of red.

Does anyone know why the price of the Start Collecting boxes went up in price? I did a cursory search, and one thing I read was that the price of materials went up recently.

Brexit.

There’s plenty of non-red mechanicus schemes, Ryza is orange and Metalica is white to name just the most well known ones.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Brexit.

There’s plenty of non-red mechanicus schemes, Ryza is orange and Metalica is white to name just the most well known ones.

Is it seriously because of Brexit? If so, then I guess that's another reason to hate Brexit.

I thought about doing Ryza, only because I feel I want to paint a lot of factions that are red or incorporate red (Blood Angels, Word Bearers, World Eaters). Alternatively, I could just forego the official schemes and do something original.

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

This weekend I want to hopefully make a dedicated white space with lots of lighting for taking pictures. :) I am happy with how these turned out. They don't look as good with my smartphone capturing every detail, but I think they look great in person. I painted two space mariners tonight as well and need to get around to taking pictures of those. Since taking these photos i've always made some touch ups around the shoulder pads for each dude.


I said come in! fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Feb 8, 2019

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
The Scale75 Kickstarter is up.

Tube paints. Not what I expected.

(There's some early bird pledges only available for the first 24 hours, so.)

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Max Wilco posted:

Alternatively, I could just forego the official schemes and do something original.
That’s likely what I’m going to do with my AdMech dudes. “Original color scheme” is also a huge part of 40k painting in general.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

For some reason I'd really like to buy these guys from GW:



GW has suggested ~$124 worth of paint that I should buy to go with them... can anyone give me a list of what I should buy in order to do a "respectable" job painting them, as well as a good go-to video guide for painting skeletons or anything else I would need?

Harkano
Jun 5, 2005

Professor Shark posted:

For some reason I'd really like to buy these guys from GW:



GW has suggested ~$124 worth of paint that I should buy to go with them... can anyone give me a list of what I should buy in order to do a "respectable" job painting them, as well as a good go-to video guide for painting skeletons or anything else I would need?

Duncan has your back -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPqLyaM8a-w

He lists 19 paints at the start of the video, but take a look and see which ones you can get away with doing a mix. for example if he does a base colour, a layer, and then a highlight, you can probably cut this down to 1 or 2 colours by just adding black or white to the base, or mixing 2 colours together.

Stephenls posted:

The Scale75 Kickstarter is up.

Tube paints. Not what I expected.

(There's some early bird pledges only available for the first 24 hours, so.)

I have no idea what I'd do with these, but the presentation is so slick I almost want to back the set.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!

Professor Shark posted:

For some reason I'd really like to buy these guys from GW:



GW has suggested ~$124 worth of paint that I should buy to go with them... can anyone give me a list of what I should buy in order to do a "respectable" job painting them, as well as a good go-to video guide for painting skeletons or anything else I would need?

I'm sure someone else will chime in with something more comprehensive but there was a guy a couple weeks ago in this very thread I believe that got good looking skelly just washing agrax earthshade or some kind of sepia directly onto a white primer. Then you just need brown + metal for wood/iron, then black/grey for the cloaks. I would try priming white, blocking in the browns and metal, washing all over, let dry. Do the cloaks in black, highlighting grey (or possibly paint them dark grey and wash in black ink shade.. Never tried this but seen good results.) Then drybrushing with some bone colour over the bone + wood parts to highlight(more paint on the bone parts, very very dry on the wood parts).

Throw a pot of white in as well as black so you can make as many different shades of grey as you want, or ghetto lighten/darken other paints (I did a fair bit of this starting out)

So the list would be like

White rattle can primer
Brown (dryad bark)
Metal (leadbelcher)
Shade (agrax or some army painter dip iirc)
Bone (ushabti bone)
Black
White
Grey(? If you want a specific type of grey you can't get via simple mixing black/white say fenrisian grey)
Black wash(? if you want to try some fancy "black but not really" way of painting black)

That will come to about 30/35 euros or equivalent colonial currency I think. This is not taking into account the fancy effects on the studio job swords and cloaks but it is something like what I might try to start.

Disclaimer : I never painted sigmar stuff, am extremely mediocre, and pulled a significant portion of this from my rear end and/or leaky memory

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Harkano posted:

Duncan has your back -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPqLyaM8a-w

He lists 19 paints at the start of the video, but take a look and see which ones you can get away with doing a mix. for example if he does a base colour, a layer, and then a highlight, you can probably cut this down to 1 or 2 colours by just adding black or white to the base, or mixing 2 colours together.

I found this video right after I posted and I think I'll go with it. The colors still work out to be ~$110, but I like his results and hope to replicate them.

He uses Zandri Dust as a base, spraying it. I don't want to buy an airgun just yet, would I be able to get away with buying the regular paint and applying it, or is there a non-GW equivalent that I could use?

Edit:

IPA Regulations posted:

White rattle can primer

Any specific type I should look for? I don't use spray paint often, is there a texture or finish that is best for models?

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Professor Shark posted:

GW has suggested ~$124 worth of paint that I should buy to go with them... can anyone give me a list of what I should buy in order to do a "respectable" job painting them, as well as a good go-to video guide for painting skeletons or anything else I would need?

You can probably pull it off in 7 paints and washes (excluding white primer) or 10 if you want some nice highlights and rust

code:
Seraphim Sepia Shade
Agrax Earthshade Shade
Drakenhoff Nightshade Shade

Eshin Grey
Mephiston Red,
Screaming Skull
Leadbelcher

Optional) Rhinox Hide
Optional) Bugmans Glow
Optional) Troll Slayer Orange

Prime everything white.

1) Wash everything Sepia
2) Drybrush Screaming Skull
3) Paint Metal bits in Leadbelcher, Black Bits in Eshin Grey and Red bits in Mephiston Red and Fur in Screaming Skull.
4) Wash everything but the grey in Agrax Earthshade, wash the grey in Drakenhof

Bonus points:
5) Paint edges of red bits in Bugmans Glow
6) Stab the metal bits with Rhinox Hide for some dark rust
7) Stab the inside bits of the Rhinox Hide with a small bit of orange (wipe most of it off the brush first)

IPA Regulations posted:

I'm sure someone else will chime in with something more comprehensive but there was a guy a couple weeks ago in this very thread I believe that got good looking skelly just washing agrax earthshade or some kind of sepia directly onto a white primer.

Might've been me, I painted a Death Army last month and posted the Sepia over white skeleton.



Step 1) Prime White
Step 2) Wash Sepia
That's all the above guy was.

Optional Step 3) Drybrush Screaming Skull (I did that on the unit afterwards)



Works on all bone stuff



And for good measure here's December dot jpeg again

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Professor Shark posted:

I found this video right after I posted and I think I'll go with it. The colors still work out to be ~$110, but I like his results and hope to replicate them.

He uses Zandri Dust as a base, spraying it. I don't want to buy an airgun just yet, would I be able to get away with buying the regular paint and applying it, or is there a non-GW equivalent that I could use?

Edit:


Any specific type I should look for? I don't use spray paint often, is there a texture or finish that is best for models?

They make a zandri dust spray primer but it’s very expensive. https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Basecoat-Spray-Zandri-Dust

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!

Professor Shark posted:

Any specific type I should look for? I don't use spray paint often, is there a texture or finish that is best for models?

I've always just bought the citadel sprays so can't really help there. I know they are probably overpriced (as everything GW is usually) but they work well.

I do know you want one that is specifically a primer as there may be cheaper sprays that won't hold paint as well as dedicated primer. I seem to remember it was confirmed all GW spray cans are primer (even 'base' colours), though may be wrong.

Edit: yes the primer cans are pricey but I think they pay for themselves in the hassle they save. Trying to slosh on a basecoat over a group of models bare plastic evenly with a brush in multiple thin coats to try not lose detail is so tedious I guarantee you'll wish you just bought some spray, and to make matters worse the results won't even be as good/ level as a spray. Research cheaper brands maybe, but get spray.

Also yes, richyp's was the good easy skelly method I was thinking of.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Feb 8, 2019

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

If I want to save money and avoid the Citadel paints, what else should I look at for a good alternative? What paints should I avoid?

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Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

I said come in! posted:

If I want to save money and avoid the Citadel paints, what else should I look at for a good alternative? What paints should I avoid?

Vallejo is probably the best, reaper and p3 also make good paints. Avoid army painter, they're cheap for a reason.

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