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Booley posted:Vallejo is probably the best, reaper and p3 also make good paints. Avoid army painter, they're cheap for a reason. I bought a box of like 50 Army Painter paints for $100 before doing my Imperial Knight but ended up buying a bunch of Citadel paints because I was trying to specifically color match particular Citadel colors and it was easier to just, like, buy those paints than do research on equivalent colors from other brands and then track them down, etc. I used about a dozen Army Painter colors for odds and ends on the Knight that didn’t require color matching and they got the job done - I’m still using their “greedy gold” for the Necron sigils in my Necron army because it’s one tiny detail and it looks fine. Other than that, I’ve personally been buying Citadel paints from my local GW store. Like yeah I know I could get paints cheaper elsewhere, but my local store is super awesome and I don’t buy paints often, so I’m totally okay with throwing them a bone and paying a bit of a premium on paints.
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Feb 8, 2019 17:56
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I finished one beefy boi for the discord painting extravaganza.  
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Feb 8, 2019 18:04
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Booley posted:Vallejo is probably the best, reaper and p3 also make good paints. Avoid army painter, they're cheap for a reason. Army Painter is variable, YMMV. Probably worth a try. Most of their Washes are pretty good, some of their paints have weak pigment (like the bright red from the starter set, I forget the name), though others are fine (Uniform grey is pretty solid for instance).
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Feb 8, 2019 18:09
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Army Painter brushes are literally worse than some free, store-brand brushes I got as a promotion effort. They started visibly disintegrating after the first use. Avoid like the plague.
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Feb 8, 2019 18:24
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Zuul the Cat posted:I finished one beefy boi for the discord painting extravaganza. How did you do that hair?
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Feb 8, 2019 18:35
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Unoriginal Name posted:How did you do that hair? Jokaero, Fuegan wash, Troll Slayer
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Feb 8, 2019 18:45
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Finished up my helverin and got him on that fancy urban ruin base I posted earlier in thread (thanks for the call out Zuul the Cat!). Thanks also to Skails for the awesome excoriator tutorials which I used for the bullet damage on the shoulder pads and impact damage on the shin guards.    Some things that I learned for my second helverin:
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 8, 2019 18:49
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Mikey Purp posted:Finished up my helverin and got him on that fancy urban ruin base I posted earlier in thread (thanks for the call out Zuul the Cat!). Thanks also to Skails for the awesome excoriator tutorials which I used for the bullet damage on the shoulder pads and impact damage on the shin guards. This is so fantastic dude. This color combo works really well, and that damage is aces.
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Feb 8, 2019 19:00
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Zuul the Cat posted:I finished one beefy boi for the discord painting extravaganza. Nice! Say, how might one gain access to said discord?
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Feb 8, 2019 19:24
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:x-posting Amazing work. Mikey Purp posted:Finished up my helverin and got him on that fancy urban ruin base I posted earlier in thread (thanks for the call out Zuul the Cat!). Thanks also to Skails for the awesome excoriator tutorials which I used for the bullet damage on the shoulder pads and impact damage on the shin guards. Xenomrph posted:Other than that, I’ve personally been buying Citadel paints from my local GW store. Like yeah I know I could get paints cheaper elsewhere, but my local store is super awesome and I don’t buy paints often, so I’m totally okay with throwing them a bone and paying a bit of a premium on paints.
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Feb 8, 2019 22:06
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Is Army Painter really that bad? My citadel paints are all old and crappy and I want to start painting again, so my wife got me the AP starter box. It looks nice... 
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Feb 8, 2019 22:14
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Doctor Zero posted:Is Army Painter really that bad? My citadel paints are all old and crappy and I want to start painting again, so my wife got me the AP starter box. It looks nice... I started painting with an AP starter box and when I bought some VMC it felt like a noticeable upgrade (and Vallejo is barely more expensive...). That said I think their metallics are better than Vallejo's standard metallics and their washes are great.
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Feb 8, 2019 22:18
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I feel like I can't thin AP as much with water as I can other paints but other than that they've been fine for me.
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Feb 8, 2019 22:45
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richyp posted:You can probably pull it off in 7 paints and washes (excluding white primer) or 10 if you want some nice highlights and rust Yowza, I like the look of your bone (  ) more than his, plus washes seem like some sort of painting cheat code, which also appeals to me.I think I'd rather go with the mulberry-ish color they gave one of the models, any advice on how I can use that instead of their crimson?  long-rear end nips Diane posted:They make a zandri dust spray primer but it’s very expensive. https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Basecoat-Spray-Zandri-Dust IPA Regulations posted:I've always just bought the citadel sprays so can't really help there. I know they are probably overpriced (as everything GW is usually) but they work well. I remember when I played 40K in highschool that this was the general feeling: good stuff, just overpriced. I think that I'll take a look at the $3 primers at the hardware store, if I'm not feeling confident I may just bite the bullet and go with a GW primer (Corax White?). Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 8, 2019 22:49
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Doctor Zero posted:Is Army Painter really that bad? My citadel paints are all old and crappy and I want to start painting again, so my wife got me the AP starter box. It looks nice... The honest to god truth is you ask 30 different hobbyists about a product and you'll get 35 different responses. Try it out and see how they work for you. Also props to your wife for the gift, that's cool as hell
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Feb 8, 2019 23:03
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Its not cheaper, but I'm a fan of Golden Acrylic's High Flow and Fluid paints along with their glazing mediums. I especially like having 'real' colors like ocher yellow, pyrrole red, and bone black rather than Cygnus Yellow or Khorne Red. There's some P3 paints with hard to emulate colors though.
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Feb 8, 2019 23:06
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The real question people should be asking is which paints taste the best. I mean they’re non-toxic, might as well utilize them to the fullest.
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Feb 8, 2019 23:13
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I use a mixture of Citadel, VMC (VMA really but I brush it on), some S75 and some other stuff. Some brands are better than others at different things. From my perspective as someone who paints with water almost: Vallejo Model/Air Colour Pros - has a massive range of colours - great for layers - thin's well - very matt finish (game colour is a bit more glossy and closer to Citadel) - dropper bottles - Standard Metals not good* Cons - massive range of colours (don't forget you can mix paints too) - Not great for a base coat, especially when thinned - No Baharroth Blue * Vallejo Metallic Air however are loving awesome, and brush on straight from the dropper smooth as hell Citadel Pros - Good all rounder - Large range of colours - Base range covers great, even thinned. - The Washes/Shades are liquid talent - Lahmian Medium. This stuff is magic, and yes I've used Matte/Glaze etc.. mediums, but nothing matches this stuff, shame it comes in small amounts for the cost of a kidney. - Baharroth Blue Cons - Them pots (Except for washes where it makes sense) - Pricey but "GW" - Seriously the pots man, they crud up badly S75 Pros - Can be thinned like nothing else Cons - Subjective, but it seems to behave a lot differently than the other two. - No Baharroth Blue Professor Shark posted:Yowza, I like the look of your bone ( Thanks. If you're after a desaturated purple, I'd swap Mephiston for Xereus Purple, and mix in some of the Eschin grey to taste. Then wash it with the Blue Drakenhoff Nightshade wash and highlight with either the Grey, for a desaturated look, or the Purple for a vibrant one. The purple cloth on this dude I painted last week, uses Xereus as the base, but the shade in the darkest recesses is close to what you're after and is pretty much grey+purple washed blue. 
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Feb 8, 2019 23:24
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richyp posted:I use a mixture of Citadel, VMC (VMA really but I brush it on), some S75 and some other stuff. Some brands are better than others at different things. Do you use VMA because its already thinner, or for some other reason? I've been considering trying out other paint ranges but got burned on army painter, so the idea of doing my base colours in citadel and then layering with VM sounds appealing.
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Feb 8, 2019 23:33
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MrFlibble posted:Do you use VMA because its already thinner, or for some other reason? Mainly because it's thinner, and VMC metals separate too much when thinned to the same degree I like to paint with. I use paint that's often thinned to the level of a shade or glaze and it's nigh on impossible to do that with most metallics, where as VMA is more or less good to go from the bottle (I still add a drop of water). Citadel metallics are decent enough, and I've yet to find a gold that bases as well as Retributor Armour does in one coat.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:00
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MrFlibble posted:Do you use VMA because its already thinner, or for some other reason? Mostly because it's already thinner, and I have a airbrush, so it makes sense to get it anyway. In reality, especially for someone just getting back into painting, AP is totally fine. You can do a bang up job with craft store acrylics if necessary, and all of the needly stuff like "consistent pigment density across the range" and "behaves well when thinned" or "is a pre-mixed Citadel edge tone" or "can easily make a wash out of it" doesn't matter in the beginning. Decent brushes and cheap paints will give better results than VGC or Vallejo Mecha or S75 from someone with a cheap synthetic that won't hold a point or someone who overloads the brush trying to edge/drybrush. Worry about neurotic differences in vendors once your skill level is back Except yellow and white/ivory. Spend big money on that unless you want to do 10 coats and still feel like you can see through it
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Feb 9, 2019 00:07
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Army painter bone spray is good poo poo, imo, and cheaper than Citadel
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Feb 9, 2019 00:09
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evol262 posted:all of the needly stuff like "consistent pigment density across the range" and "behaves well when thinned" or "is a pre-mixed Citadel edge tone" or "can easily make a wash out of it" doesn't matter in the beginning. I would argue the exact opposite. An experienced painter can deal with things like that, someone just getting started will have better results with less frustration, which means they keep painting, if their paints behave the way they expect when they're using them, and the same from paint to paint. Being colors that are commonly used in tutorials is also helpful.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:18
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evol262 posted:Mostly because it's already thinner, and I have a airbrush, so it makes sense to get it anyway. I'd argue that a little bit more spent on good paints vs meh paints is better in the long run when you'll want to swap to them anyway. And getting into a good habit of thinning paints and learning the consistencies of a paint will pay off quickly. I'd also argue that a cheap brush and better paints would be a better use of cash, because a reasonable brush vs a good brush will make little difference to result, where as 15 coats of a bad red paint will trash a brush faster and ones patience. Also Baharroth is love. Edit: Beaten by Booley
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Feb 9, 2019 00:19
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Serenade posted:Its not cheaper, but I'm a fan of Golden Acrylic's High Flow and Fluid paints along with their glazing mediums. I especially like having 'real' colors like ocher yellow, pyrrole red, and bone black rather than Cygnus Yellow or Khorne Red. There's some P3 paints with hard to emulate colors though. My go-to for a nice dark brown shading wash is a drop of Golden High Flow raw umber and a few drops of Pledge Floor Care.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:22
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richyp posted:Thanks. Cool, how does this list look:  Questions: 1) What about the brown fur, what should I use for it... unless the Agrax covers it? 2) Should I go with the Corax White? What do you use? 3) There are a couple bronze surfaces (shield, cape). What should I use for those, and would you recommend Nihilakh Oxide in conjunction with them?
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Feb 9, 2019 00:45
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Professor Shark posted:Cool, how does this list look: Depends how much you want to spend. 1) Agrax over white will give you a light fur colour, you can continue washing it with Agrax to darken it, or you could get something like a Khaki Colour and do the same 2) Corax White spray is what I used for the Skeletons. If you want to paint other things, then Primer colour is a whole other discussion as there are people who swear by black and building the colour up, people who swear by white and shading the colours down and then there's people who love grey (me included) where you can shade up and down evenly. Though I do use all three depending on the desired effect. 3) Agrax and Sepia over Leadbelcher will give you a bronze effect but nothing near an actual bronze colour. If it's your first set of paints, I'd get Retributor Gold as it covers great and washed with shades can pull double duty as bronze. If you're really interested in painting stuff I'd maybe add a couple more basic colours, a good medium blue (Macragge maybe) a yellow (Flash Gitz) and a medium green (Skarsnik) so you have all angles covered if you want to mix other colours. I did this a while ago which lists some of my favourite/useful paints with a new painter in mind. http://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/painting-by-numbers-recommended-paints/
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Feb 9, 2019 00:54
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richyp posted:Depends how much you want to spend. 1) Cool, I'll go with that and dry brush with SS as Warhammer TV suggested 2) Cool, I'll go with Retributor and wash with Agrax and maybe the Oxide. 3) Hmm, I'm a bit worried about my mixing ability. Orange is another favorite color of mine, and I'm already set on getting the Troll Slayer. How can I create a washed out orange? I should admit that I was also looking at Nighthaunt Gloom, as it appears a good go-to for capes... I guess I'll also need some brushes to go with all of this. I have a few random modelling brushes, is there a Goon Approved set I could get?
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Feb 9, 2019 02:10
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So if I prime something white, hit it with a wash to tint it, and dont like how the undercolor of white looks, is there a way to recolor without repainting whole sections? Glaze it?
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Feb 9, 2019 02:34
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richyp posted:I did this a while ago which lists some of my favourite/useful paints with a new painter in mind. http://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/painting-by-numbers-recommended-paints/ I will still ask lots of stupid questions but your website has been extremely helpful for me, thank you for taking the time to write.
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Feb 9, 2019 03:11
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Zark the Damned posted:Army Painter is variable, YMMV. Probably worth a try. Most of their Washes are pretty good, some of their paints have weak pigment (like the bright red from the starter set, I forget the name), though others are fine (Uniform grey is pretty solid for instance). I was about to ask about this, since I was led to believe that Army Painter had pretty good washes. I just bought a couple with the order I made yesterday because of that (and because they're cheaper than Citadel's washes). inscrutable horse posted:Army Painter brushes are literally worse than some free, store-brand brushes I got as a promotion effort. They started visibly disintegrating after the first use. Avoid like the plague. I bought an Army Painter brush starter set, and while I don't think they disintegrated, they seemed like they started getting bad not too long after I used them a bit; some of the bristles got stuck together, and just seemed to get super rigid. I chalked that up to me not cleaning them properly, which is why I'm going to get one of those little cans of brush soap before I use the new ones I got. However, I also wondered if it was something in the water that caused the brushes to get like that (and if it affected the paint in some way). Xenomrph posted:That's likely what I'm going to do with my AdMech dudes. “Original color scheme” is also a huge part of 40k painting in general. I've honestly wanted to make a custom army with a unique paint scheme goofy lore/backstory that only I will care about. I've come up with a few ideas (most all spehss mahreen related), but I haven't really come up with anything that I've been really happy with or want to commit to. One concept I came up with was having a renegade Ultramarines army; not in the Chaos/Traitor sense, but rather based on one the planned concepts for the sequel to Relic's Space Marine game Space Marine Director Talks Plot for Would Be Sequels posted:The former director of 2011's Space Marine revealed he had a three game story arc planned out for the series. Space Marine, based on the Warhammer 40,000 setting, cast players as Titus, one of the titular chainsword wielding Ork-slayers. "I had some big plans for Titus," Raphael van Lierop, formerly of Space Marine developer Relic Entertainment, told the Penny Arcade Report. It was also because I want to paint Ultramarines stuff (some of which is pretty cool, like the Honor Guard) without actually painting Ultramarines. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 06:16
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TAP's weapon bronze is one of my favourite metals, personally. Overall as paints go I feel like they're solid workman paints on the whole - not top of the line, nothing special, they get the job done at a low cost. I'd rather use Reaper or Tamiya, overall, but if I want a cheap test bottle for a new scheme component or some poo poo TAP's worth getting, and I happily use TAP's metallics and washes. My personal paint box is a hodgepodge of Mr. Hobby (Burnt Iron is the best loving thing as a basecoat for metallic components of any kind and they do a great gold that contains both gold and silver pigment that, if you mix it just right, gives a brilliant mixed effect or a nice, solid gold if you thoroughly stir), Tamiya (XF-03, boiiii - no yellow is better in my experience), TAP, Vallejo, and Reaper. Tamiya paints are great but you only get 10ml pots and they cost anywhere from 10 to 20 cents more a ml than TAP, Reaper or Vallejo and they can be a bitch to stir and they dry extremely quickly because they're alcohol based. The trade-off of course is that you can paint faster but wet blending is basically impossible without drying retarders. Obviously it's a very personal thing and I know a lot of brush painters hate Tamiya's stuff, but I enjoy them. They also make excellent glazes in my experience diluted with water, and you can get some quite lovely rich shades that way between the speed of drying and the partial pigment availability of mostly-dry paints allowing for the shades to blur together just from being gently brushed together. Oh, also Tamiya is extra fumey because of the alcohol binder so, you know, heads up. I think I've already spent enough time spruiking for the Tamiya basic brushes, too, so I'll skip that today.
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Feb 9, 2019 15:40
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I read some reviews that said Citadel brushes were pretty good, how does this set look? I have a bunch of small detail brushes from random companies, but I'd like to have a basic set that will cover all of my bases. Edit: I forgot that GW doesn't do things the way most companies do- if I buy all of the brushes individually and not not buy the M Texture... thing... then it works out to be a bit cheaper. Edit Edit: I just read the Goonhammer article on GW brushes. I guess I could just go with a couple Layer brushes and a M Dry brush? Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 16:27
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Posters above mentioned bad things about Vallejo "standard metallics" and I want to clarify a thing. Vallejo has multiple lines of metallic paints: - Model Color / Vallejo Game Color - eh, your standard metallics - Air (and derivatives like Model Air) - range from great for airbrushing with worse coverage when hand-brushing, to joy in a bottle like 71.065 Steel which is a great bright silver and awesome to mix with other paints to get metallic colors. The airbrush lines also have much smoother pigment than the standard paints, which helps avoid a "colored paint with metallic glitter inside" effect. - Metallic Medium - absolute poo poo, glittery as gently caress, throw in the trash, for mixing use Steel above instead. - Metal Color - separate specifically metal line, works basically like the better half of the airbrush line with a consistency for hand-brushing, very good smooth metallic effect. - Liquid Gold / Liquid Metal - the absolute best of Vallejo lines, great coverage, great shine, BUT! (and it is a big butt) they're alcohol-based, so they dry very quickly, don't mix with standard paints, want separate brushes, and hate repeated brushstrokes (if you don't get coverage on the first stroke, you have to wait a few minutes for it to dry or you'll gently caress up the surface). They're the finicky primadonnas whose bullshit you put up with because they're that good. Also, do not buy PP metallics, their normal paints are great but metallics take a lot of effort for the model to stop looking like cheap chromed plastic. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 16:33
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^^^ The VMA Silver, Steel and Black brush on like a dream and cover in one pass, the golds take 2 coats for me (especially over white) to avoid the brush strokes, a base of retributor armour or brown paint first works a treat before brushing on VMA Gold and/or Copper.Professor Shark posted:I read some reviews that said Citadel brushes were pretty good, how does this set look? I have a bunch of small detail brushes from random companies, but I'd like to have a basic set that will cover all of my bases. I swear by these brushes: https://www.rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/pure-kolinsky-pointed They're not super cheap and are pure sable, but they're a lot cheaper than other brands. I use a size 2 for everything, but a lot of people prefer different sizes for different things so maybe a 0 and a 2 would cover your bases (no pun intended). Drybrushing will wreck brushes and tends to be done with older brushes that are already on their way out, so I would buy a pack of cheap store paint brushes (I use my kid's craft ones when he's not looking and are about 10p each).
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Feb 9, 2019 18:02
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richyp posted:I swear by these brushes: https://www.rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/pure-kolinsky-pointed I second this recommendation.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:30
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richyp posted:and Black brush on like a dream and cover in one pass
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Feb 9, 2019 20:35
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Snow day in Seattle so I decided to paint some terrain. I mostly went with a gently caress it have fun painting it mentality, and didn't want to focus too hard on doing a good job. I like really heavily weathered terrain, so I just went to town with earthshade and corrosion.   It felt good to not try so hard for once, and instead just focus on getting a thing done. I think for the next piece of this terrain I'm going to skip most of the edge highlights and lean heavier into dry brushing.
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Feb 9, 2019 20:56
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Does anyone have experience with BattleTech mini's? i was wondering what the assembly difficulty was like, looking at them they seem a bit intimidating, but there's a couple battlemechs that I really want to get and paint because I love that universe.
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Feb 9, 2019 21:37
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Pierzak posted:I've had a different experience, the VAir Black Metal specifically was one of those with very poor coverage by brush. Works nicely when airbrushed over a black coat though. Strange, I've yet to get my airbrush setup to use (couple more weeks hopefully), but I switched full time to using VMA metals with a standard brush a few months ago, and besides the gold colours I haven't dusted off leadbelcher in ages.
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Feb 9, 2019 21:50
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