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enraged_camel posted:yeah, if you're 67 years old Won't climbing engage the tendons in your hands/fingers no matter what? (I guess if you're doing some weird no-hand route it wont)
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Feb 12, 2019 19:54
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Slimy Hog posted:Won't climbing engage the tendons in your hands/fingers no matter what? (I guess if you're doing some weird no-hand route it wont) It totally depends on what kind of training you're doing at the gym. If you're there 5 days a week specifically trying to train, you'll end up doing different stuff than if you go twice a week to just climb stuff. You can make 5 days a week work just fine, or you can overtrain and hurt yourself.
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Feb 12, 2019 20:01
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Awkward Davies posted:4-5 times a week is a recipe for injury. I'm in my late 30s and climbed 4 times a week for years, and I'm not sure I can count how many people I know who do the same. I think most pros and wannabe pros do the 5.5 days a week thing and I know plenty of those people. I've been climbing about 15 years now and I've been injured the least with increased climbing frequency, I don't think I've had a serious finger injury I couldn't climb through in like 8 years. You just have to regulate your intensity and not be dumb. Like I said it's a skill sport, the more time you put into practice the more results you'll see, don't need to be trying to push strength every session. That said I wouldn't start out climbing 5.5 days a week, you need to build up to it like most things in life, and when you're just starting it's difficult to climb at a low intensity level because everything is hard for you.
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Feb 12, 2019 20:09
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armorer posted:Grow a thick beard so you have a bit more facial protection. I grow a beard akin to that of a 13 year old Italian girl.
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Feb 12, 2019 20:11
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I grow a beard akin to that of a 13 year old Italian girl. Ah, then, "dont fall bruh".
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Feb 12, 2019 20:25
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I might want to give climbing a shot for the next few months. I’m guessing bouldering is the easy way to begin if you don’t have someone you go with and just want to go in, have fun for an hour or two and then leave? Is there progress to be made climbing only once a week/learning by yourself?
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Feb 12, 2019 22:04
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KingColliwog posted:I might want to give climbing a shot for the next few months. I’m guessing bouldering is the easy way to begin if you don’t have someone you go with and just want to go in, have fun for an hour or two and then leave? Yeah, absolutely. Climbing's a good workout and a great way to stay in shape. Just don't think you're going to turn into Alex Honnold going once a week or something. I go with my cousin once a week and she's steadily improving and using it as a fun way to get in better shape, I'm sure she'll plateau eventually but she can decide how serious she is about it then. Depending on your local gym you may have access to auto belays which will let you do roped climbing with a partner, I actually think they're a gentler way to start out early on, but I prefer bouldering if I don't have a set partner because it's a much more communal activity once you start to recognize people and can work on problems together. It depends a little on your base fitness, my cousin basically can't boulder because it's too hard and she gets scared of heights, but if you're in OK shape it's probably fine.
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Feb 12, 2019 22:23
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Bouldering is also typically a more social activity than roped climbing, at least in a gym setting. You may end up working the same problems as other folks and end up talking about them and helping each other out.
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Feb 12, 2019 22:32
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M. Night Skymall posted:Yeah, absolutely. Climbing's a good workout and a great way to stay in shape. Just don't think you're going to turn into Alex Honnold going once a week or something. I go with my cousin once a week and she's steadily improving and using it as a fun way to get in better shape, I'm sure she'll plateau eventually but she can decide how serious she is about it then. Depending on your local gym you may have access to auto belays which will let you do roped climbing with a partner, I actually think they're a gentler way to start out early on, but I prefer bouldering if I don't have a set partner because it's a much more communal activity once you start to recognize people and can work on problems together. Cool, might hit the nearest gym to give it a shot and make sure the price/schedule works for me. I’m in pretty good shape and relatively lean, can do more than 10 strict pull-ups, I have decent grip strength since I’m a judo guy and pretty good flexibility. Aside from finger strength I think I’m probably in a pretty good shape for a potential beginner. I don’t have much expectations, just don’t want to get in and realize that 1x a week means I’ll always do the same thing every week. I ask because in judo/bjj 1x a week really isn’t enough to make any real progress.
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Feb 12, 2019 22:35
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Bought some new shoes today  it's the second time they're the same size as my street shoes, yet still they feel a bit small-ish. This time I went for La Sportiva Tarantulas; my previous ones - Katana, were so uncomfortable I wasn't able to wear them for more than 1.5h - still I persevered until they garnered holes (so i had to, i tell you, had to replace them).Regarding socializing - some people from my work are attending next monday, so ask around, you might be surprised! I also gotten asked today about my new shoes by a security guy that randomly screened my bag - I asked him if he climbs, but he didn't want to come  I've also noticed that it's easier for me to have a chit-chat at the wall, even if it boils down to how to do given route and people are friendly to answer (or it might be a british thing, idk). There's absolutely progress to be made if you climb alone as well - you can always have a look how other people are doing given thing and try to emulate. It's fun!
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Feb 12, 2019 23:01
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canis minor posted:I've also noticed that it's easier for me to have a chit-chat at the wall, even if it boils down to how to do given route and people are friendly to answer (or it might be a british thing, idk).
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Feb 12, 2019 23:26
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KingColliwog posted:Cool, might hit the nearest gym to give it a shot and make sure the price/schedule works for me. I’m in pretty good shape and relatively lean, can do more than 10 strict pull-ups, I have decent grip strength since I’m a judo guy and pretty good flexibility. Aside from finger strength I think I’m probably in a pretty good shape for a potential beginner. You might struggle to develop skills quickly only doing 1 session a week but in terms of pure fitness it sounds like you could probably be climbing some pretty good poo poo if you're a fast learner. I've been climbing for several years now and can't do 10 consecutive pull ups but I'm still able to climb 7a indoors. In this sort of situation you'd probably really benefit from finding someone to give you advice since you're a bit of an outlier. Endjinneer posted:For some reason bouldering walls are always a talk-to-strangers zone, like the opposite of a railway carriage. It's because everyone there wants to climb and almost everyone likes to shoot poo poo about their hobby / obsession, even British people!
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Feb 12, 2019 23:38
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Awkward Davies posted:4-5 times a week is a recipe for injury. No.
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Feb 12, 2019 23:58
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i'm here to poo poo post and send and i sure as heck ain't sending
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Feb 13, 2019 00:00
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Has anyone here climbed in Zion National Park? We just booked a private climbing tour with Zion Rock and Mountain and I am SUPER nervous I won't be able to do anything. I climb 5.9s at my overrated gym.
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Feb 13, 2019 03:08
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Y’all have fun with your hosed up bodies
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Feb 13, 2019 06:40
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Awkward Davies posted:Y’all have fun with your hosed up bodies you have fun with VBs lol
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Feb 13, 2019 07:40
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RabidWeasel posted:You might struggle to develop skills quickly only doing 1 session a week but in terms of pure fitness it sounds like you could probably be climbing some pretty good poo poo if you're a fast learner. I've been climbing for several years now and can't do 10 consecutive pull ups but I'm still able to climb 7a indoors. Thx. Went yesterday for the first time and I had a blast. I managed to get through stuff that I never thought I could do (3 V2 with stupid overhangs that I thought were reserved for higher difficulties) and could probably have done more of them, but my hands died. I thought my grip would be the thing giving out, but sheer abrasion on my hands was the limiting factor for me. Also seeing people that didn’t look particularly fit do stuff that was super impressive to my newbie eye was pretty drat cool. I think I’ll give climbing a fair shot
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Feb 14, 2019 17:33
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KingColliwog posted:Thx. Went yesterday for the first time and I had a blast. I managed to get through stuff that I never thought I could do (3 V2 with stupid overhangs that I thought were reserved for higher difficulties) and could probably have done more of them, but my hands died. I thought my grip would be the thing giving out, but sheer abrasion on my hands was the limiting factor for me. I've got going for about 3 weeks, and that is what's holding me back from doing more as well. Nothing in my life has given me so many blisters.
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Feb 14, 2019 20:08
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https://frictionlabs.com/blog/hand-skin-care-for-rock-climbing Take care of your hands and your sessions will be much less irritating. I use the stuff on this page (ClimbSkin) and I want to say it helps, but YMMV. Don't leave tags, don't leave blisters, don't leave gross poo poo. It'll catch and you'll have a nice flap of skin to show for it. That said, if you do get a flapper, gently caress it, tape it, climb some more. When I first started, I had like 3-4 fingers taped up at a time, but I was also going 4-5 times a week. Glad to have you aboard!
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Feb 14, 2019 21:41
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KingColliwog posted:Thx. Went yesterday for the first time and I had a blast. I managed to get through stuff that I never thought I could do (3 V2 with stupid overhangs that I thought were reserved for higher difficulties) and could probably have done more of them, but my hands died. I thought my grip would be the thing giving out, but sheer abrasion on my hands was the limiting factor for me. Yeah when you're very new you tend to have your skin get so roughened up that you just can't make yourself touch the holds any more because it hurts too much. That hopefully shouldn't last too long and even if you don't want to go for any of the many ointments and other things out there designed specifically for climbers just a plain skin moisturiser is good (I always put mine on right before bed and wash off in the morning) Unless you're climbing some extreme poo poo the biggest limiting factors for most people in terms of strength is specific finger strength and core strength so it's not that weird to see people who look fairly normal in terms of body shape but climb strong. If you're carrying some extra stomach padding because you love your burgs and donuts it doesn't matter how shredded your abs are under that fat layer, nobody's going to see them, and apart from some gnarly joints you can't exactly tell how strong someone's hands are just from looking.
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Feb 14, 2019 22:17
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I've been drinking much less and paying more attention to my diet since Christmas. I went from about 78kg to 72kg, which is way more than I was expecting. I'm still lifting the same amount of weight in the gym and it's made a notable difference to my climbing and seems to be helping me get through my 6B+ lead / V4ish bouldering plateau, which feels great.
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Feb 15, 2019 14:30
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Betazoid posted:Has anyone here climbed in Zion National Park? We just booked a private climbing tour with Zion Rock and Mountain and I am SUPER nervous I won't be able to do anything. I climb 5.9s at my overrated gym. There are easy routes there and if you booked a guide they will get you to the right place. I only ever climbed walls when I went to Zion but I am confident there are plenty of moderates.
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Feb 15, 2019 16:23
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It is if you're climbing near your max. If you're doing submax stuff a few of those days, then probably not an issue.
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Feb 15, 2019 18:49
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My self diagnosis of dorsal wrist impingement was spot on and received a steroid injection to help that along. Hopefully nothing more is needed. Warmup and keep a neutral wrist when you can so this nonsense doesn’t creep up on you.
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Feb 15, 2019 19:19
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So I just got back into climbing about a month ago after a 2-year hiatus. After making some attempts at a very crimpy v4 yesterday, I started getting some pain on the top of my forearm. If my hand is flat on the table its like 4 inches down from my wrist, on the top of my forearm. It kind of felt like my bones were hurting but I'm guessing it's just me overusing my tendons. After it started to hurt I took a break for a few minutes and did some light top roping where the pain came back. Has anyone experienced this before? Any advice on exercises I can do to help speed up recovery or prevent this in the future?
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Feb 15, 2019 19:36
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Partial Octopus posted:So I just got back into climbing about a month ago after a 2-year hiatus. After making some attempts at a very crimpy v4 yesterday, I started getting some pain on the top of my forearm. If my hand is flat on the table its like 4 inches down from my wrist, on the top of my forearm. It kind of felt like my bones were hurting but I'm guessing it's just me overusing my tendons. After it started to hurt I took a break for a few minutes and did some light top roping where the pain came back. Man, that's not fun. Does it persist after the session or is it during climbing? Were you trying to mantle a bunch? Any moves you might have over-done? Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Feb 15, 2019 |
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Feb 15, 2019 19:52
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It only hurt when pulling up hard with my right arm on really small crimpy holds. It felt fine with jugs and anything like that. It just happened last night but my arm feels fine now. I figure I'll just take a break over the weekend and pray that it goes away. I just wanted to see if this was a common issue or something I can correct with a workout like golfer's elbow or something like that.
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Feb 15, 2019 19:58
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17096.0 Is this close to what you feel? quote:Basically, on the top of my forearm (i.e. opposite side to my palm) about half way between my elbow and wrist I'm experiencing pain. When I'm not climbing it can ache a bit (not particularly painful but I'm worried it could worsen) and when I am climbing it can give quite a sharp pain when I move the hand on that arm from one hold to another (it's the releasing of the initial hold that hurts,it can sometimes feel as if something within is 'pinging' a bit), especially if I'm crimping fairly hard with that hand. It can also be quite painful when I pull hard on a bad hold, i.e. before I release my hand, (I think it tends to be worse on crimps than slopers) but this is rarer and tends to be after a longer, harder session. When I've been climbing harder, typically bouldering rather than doing routes, it can be quite tender so that simply applying pressure to the area causes pain. However, there doesn't seem to be any pain in my elbow at all (I've had problems with that before but I seem to have it under control at the moment). I just tried the wrist curl motions without weights and they have a nasty wet nacho cracking sound to them.  Too much skateboarding and keyboard time...
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Feb 15, 2019 20:03
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That sounds exactly like what I'm feeling. Thanks a ton! I'll try that exercise out.
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Feb 15, 2019 20:12
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If there isn't at least one type of wrist / hand movement you can make which results in a sound similar to gravel being thrown into an empty, active cement mixer you're not climbing enough imo
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Feb 15, 2019 20:22
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Ibuprofen and a raquetball massaging the trigger point would be a good idea to try
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Feb 15, 2019 20:32
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By trigger point do you mean the area that hurts?
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Feb 15, 2019 20:48
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Yea. Sometimes massaging the tender spot or areas above/below the muscle in question will help a bunch. There are trigger spots near your elbow that if massaged you will feel by your wrist for example.
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Feb 15, 2019 22:29
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Cannon_Fodder posted:https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17096.0 i had this for a long time and the two things that made it largely go away were a: rice bucket stuff and b: traversing. i originally picked up traversing just because i wanted to climb more without stressing myself, and found that it made a really big difference in how i felt a couple days later, to the point where doing a schedule of like, heavy climbing/traverse/rest, repeat was actually easier and less painful than climbing/rest/rest. the rice bucket stuff was adopted at a similar time and i focused on training my extensors, but the traversing probably was 80% of the relief its kinda weird only having sharp pain when you release a hold cause you get into odd spots where you could probably hang off of something forever and you dont really want to let go to move up
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Feb 16, 2019 00:53
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Tomorrow is gonna be my first climb in 2 months and I feel incredibly fat and I haven't gone this long without climbing for like 5 years or something. I'm really worried I'm going to hurt something because I always seem to manage to get injured right after I come back from a break 
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Feb 16, 2019 01:03
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Partial Octopus posted:So I just got back into climbing about a month ago after a 2-year hiatus. After making some attempts at a very crimpy v4 yesterday, I started getting some pain on the top of my forearm. If my hand is flat on the table its like 4 inches down from my wrist, on the top of my forearm. It kind of felt like my bones were hurting but I'm guessing it's just me overusing my tendons. After it started to hurt I took a break for a few minutes and did some light top roping where the pain came back. Maybe flexor palmaris longus irritation... I've done it on some tweaky pockets and had to lay off those for a few weeks, but there's a lot of anatomy there that it could be.
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Feb 16, 2019 03:56
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Vegas is soaked. Moes is soaked. It’s raining again tomorrow. Pray for me.
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Feb 17, 2019 02:01
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My Vapor Vs have been destroying my big toes lately. It’s like they just squish my toenails to the point that they’re bruised after an hour. Does that sound normal?
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Feb 17, 2019 02:48
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Electoral Surgery posted:Vegas is soaked. Moes is soaked. It’s raining again tomorrow. Go to j-tree!
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Feb 17, 2019 03:00
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