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Colostomy Bag posted:Man you aren't kidding and I learned something thanks to you. Just bought a pair of Anco's at Walmart for around $6-7 a piece. On Rock Auto they are listed at around $2 each. The Bosch ones for my VW are $30 each in person. I paid like $18 for the set online.
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Feb 12, 2019 17:14
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:The Bosch ones for my VW are $30 each in person. I paid like $18 for the set online. Yeah, the "Heh, you got beam style wipers on your fancy car...well, here we go..."
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Feb 12, 2019 17:35
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C-Bangin' it 
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I picked up a 2006 nissan sentra se-r spec v for $500 this past weekend. Salvage title allegedly due to hail damage which has since been repaired, but mechanically it seems sound. Was my brothers daily driver for the past few years with no problems. I'm leaning towards getting in to rally/auto cross with this thing, but I'm not really sure what all I'd need to do to get the car ready for that. I'll be doing an oil change and swap in new spark plugs this weekend and will get it in for an alignment. Past that, what should I be prioritizing here? Hoping to do most of the wrenching myself.
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Feb 12, 2019 17:49
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Autoexec.bat posted:A couple quick questions, does anyone know what this wheel came off of? It says Toyota on the backside. What does it say? There is almost definitely a stamp somewhere on the back/inside. Googling that will lead to the answer. Autoexec.bat posted:Also I removed the subframe on my old VW and oil came out of the frame, I believe it's from the rustproofing job the original owner did. Should I bother trying to refill it and if so how did they even get it in there? They got it in there by drilling or finding a hole and using the really thin wand they have to spray it in. Same as the use for rustproofing fully boxed frames and some body panels. If it was in fact from a rustproofing job and not just more VW fluid migration into strange places.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:02
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Uthor posted:??? That might actually work if I could make an angled extension for it. In other words, scrap the handle and just take the shovelly part......
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Feb 12, 2019 18:29
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Enos Cabell posted:I picked up a 2006 nissan sentra se-r spec v for $500 this past weekend. Salvage title allegedly due to hail damage which has since been repaired, but mechanically it seems sound. Was my brothers daily driver for the past few years with no problems. I'm leaning towards getting in to rally/auto cross with this thing, but I'm not really sure what all I'd need to do to get the car ready for that. I'll be doing an oil change and swap in new spark plugs this weekend and will get it in for an alignment. Past that, what should I be prioritizing here? Hoping to do most of the wrenching myself. Not sure about rally X but regular old auto X as far as I know, you just need a helmet and for it to be mechanically sound. Buy some good tires.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:32
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Same with US rallyx, but it will beat the poo poo out of the car. The 2.5 in the car likes to fail in some stupid fashion, mostly overheating sure to thermostat problems and the early QR had timing chain issues.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:41
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Wrar posted:Same with US rallyx, but it will beat the poo poo out of the car. The 2.5 in the car likes to fail in some stupid fashion, mostly overheating sure to thermostat problems and the early QR had timing chain issues. It's almost at 100k miles and I don't think the timing chain has ever been touched, so I'd better budget for that.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:58
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Javid posted:Schwab informs me that 235-70-15s like mine are uncommon these days, and the cheapest set they have is like 700 bucks. RIP to the OE size on this thing. I would definitely shop elsewhere, for starters. Discount has more options and better prices.
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Feb 12, 2019 20:33
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I'm mildly loyal to Schwab despite their prices because they are everywhere for the road hazard warranty. But it's not an absolute requirement, I just hit them up first out of habit. I have been shopping around. The cheapest options are used tires from the metal recycling place at $20-30 a corner depending on size, or Wal-mart quoted $65 a tire for what I assume is basically a large car tire. I haven't been in to discount yet. "used tires" sounds ghetto but allegedly the place actually culls the unusable ones; I'd be critically examining tread wear and date stamps but by all accounts it's actually a reliable option in this city. The guy just didn't have the 235-70s, I'm gonna go back with Schwab's suggested alternate sizes and see what he's got in 225-75. I just consider it unlikely that I'm gonna find the all-terrain type I want in there.
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Feb 12, 2019 21:28
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Motronic posted:What does it say? There is almost definitely a stamp somewhere on the back/inside. Googling that will lead to the answer. Stamping didn't turn anything up in google that I can find, which is weird as Toyotas aren't exactly rare. It has SD13D 3, Toyota QN, and 16x7 1/2 JJ50 stamped on it. It may just become a hose reel anyway. Motronic posted:They got it in there by drilling or finding a hole and using the really thin wand they have to spray it in. Same as the use for rustproofing fully boxed frames and some body panels. If it was in fact from a rustproofing job and not just more VW fluid migration into strange places. Huh, I suppose that makes sense. I'm pretty sure it was a rustproofing job since they also installed the thickest undercoating I've ever seen on a car that old. Seems to have worked since the car is rust free except the PS pump. I'll likely just throw it back together and leave what's in there alone. If it wasn't for the overkill undercoating I'd agree with the 30 year old VW theory  .
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Feb 13, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 23:19
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Enos Cabell posted:I picked up a 2006 nissan sentra se-r spec v for $500 this past weekend. Salvage title allegedly due to hail damage which has since been repaired, but mechanically it seems sound. Was my brothers daily driver for the past few years with no problems. I'm leaning towards getting in to rally/auto cross with this thing, but I'm not really sure what all I'd need to do to get the car ready for that. I'll be doing an oil change and swap in new spark plugs this weekend and will get it in for an alignment. Past that, what should I be prioritizing here? Hoping to do most of the wrenching myself. Get an EGR delete kit if it doesn't have one already
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Feb 13, 2019 02:13
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I just had new brake pads and fluid installed, and the rotors got machined/skimmed as recommended by the brake pad install guide. now, my rotors are making a howling noise when driving. they make the normal brake noises when braking, and operate very well. i have done plenty of bedding in, getting up to 60-100km/h and braking firmly down to 10km/h and repeating numerous times til the brakes are smelly. the rotors actually dont look that great after being machined, i thought they were supposed to get machined mostly perfectly flat?
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Feb 13, 2019 03:28
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I wasn't aware that anyone still machined rotors, considering how cheap they are now. But I also can't think of how they could be howling. How bad do they look? Can you post a picture? (because right now I'm guessing they went over them with an angle grinder rather than a proper brake lathe)
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Feb 13, 2019 03:41
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FronMotronic posted:I wasn't aware that anyone still machined rotors, considering how cheap they are now. But I also can't think of how they could be howling. Changing pads but not rotors, and switching pad type it is recommended. And my rotors are massive and expensive so I want them to live as long as they can.  
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Feb 13, 2019 07:47
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Colostomy Bag posted:Man you aren't kidding and I learned something thanks to you. Just bought a pair of Anco's at Walmart for around $6-7 a piece. On Rock Auto they are listed at around $2 each. They don't just "die", though. When they start chattering consistently, or streaking, is when it's time to replace them. You get plenty of warning. StormDrain posted:Alternate plan, just toss a couple of pairs in with your yearly pack of oil filters, air filters, and whatever item you actually logged on for. This. You gotta play the "ships from warehouse A/B/C" game a bit, but usually worth it. Enos Cabell posted:I picked up a 2006 nissan sentra se-r spec v for $500 this past weekend. Salvage title allegedly due to hail damage which has since been repaired, but mechanically it seems sound. Was my brothers daily driver for the past few years with no problems. I'm leaning towards getting in to rally/auto cross with this thing, but I'm not really sure what all I'd need to do to get the car ready for that. I'll be doing an oil change and swap in new spark plugs this weekend and will get it in for an alignment. Past that, what should I be prioritizing here? Hoping to do most of the wrenching myself. Before you do anything to it, what's the oil consumption like? And has it had the catalytic converter recall done? (06 was at the tail end of that, so it may have had the revised cat from the factory and not fall into the recall) The earlier QR25DE cats would break up and somehow get the pieces sucked into the cylinders, basically destroying the rings and cylinders (the cat bolts directly to the exhaust manifold). A ton of Altimas and SE-Rs got scrapped early because of it, but they wind up blowing plenty of blue smoke when it happens. It may not be a bad idea to pull the cat if you can and see if it's starting to break up though.
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Feb 13, 2019 07:52
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STR posted:They don't just "die", though. When they start chattering consistently, or streaking, is when it's time to replace them. You get plenty of warning. Oh they "die" in winter. They like to tear. I'll bore you all with another story. Wife's truck wiper arm would bust free during icy/winter time conditions. No biggie the first time, just basically a 12mm bolt after prying off the cap. Then it happened again. So I thought hey, let's do some loctite (blue) on it. Was fine for a couple years but it busted loose a couple weeks ago.
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Feb 13, 2019 14:14
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STR posted:Before you do anything to it, what's the oil consumption like? And has it had the catalytic converter recall done? (06 was at the tail end of that, so it may have had the revised cat from the factory and not fall into the recall) Thanks! Oil consumption seems normal, at least according to my brother. No leaks or smoke that I've noticed so far. I'm going to have to replace the exhaust past the cat anyway, so I'll give the cat a good look when I tackle that.
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Feb 13, 2019 14:44
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Laserface posted:Fron Lol those discs are hosed.
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Feb 13, 2019 15:43
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Looks like the bit they used to cut them was worn to gently caress also I wouldn't think skimming slotted (and drilled?) discs would be a very good idea either. If there was nothing wrong with the discs and you were just changing to a different kind of pad I would have just roughed them up with a bit of heavy grit sandpaper to deglaze them
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Feb 13, 2019 15:50
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Laserface posted:Fron An angle grinder would have done a better job. They ruined them with worn out tooling or incompetent usage.
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Feb 13, 2019 16:57
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fridge corn posted:Lol those discs are hosed. Yeah....how the hell you place drilled rotors on the lathe to begin with...
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Feb 13, 2019 17:01
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I've sometimes wondered what a rotor machined by a Dremel would look like. Huh.
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Feb 13, 2019 17:50
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Run solid discs anyway, the drilled holes are just places for them to start to crack quicker
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Feb 13, 2019 18:37
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BlackMK4 posted:Run solid discs anyway, the drilled holes are just places for them to start to crack quicker  
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Feb 13, 2019 19:12
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2011 Hyundai Sonata How often should a Sonata with ~95k miles have the oil changed? Manual says 7,500 miles, to infinity and beyond, but should it need it more often as it gets older? jackpot fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Feb 13, 2019 |
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Feb 13, 2019 20:25
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Is it eating any oil? As long as the oil level is good I'd keep on doing what you are doing. I'll run conventional 5,000-6K or so. A good synthetic...10K. That's just my preference.
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Feb 13, 2019 20:33
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Colostomy Bag posted:Is it eating any oil? Not anymore.  Let me tell you a sad story.Friday night I'm leaving my neighborhood, and as I'm accelerating I hear sort of "ZZzzz" sound. Less than a hundred feet later I'm dead, no power. Won't restart at all. Mechanic looks at it, calls with sad voice on, says it's out of oil - just locked right up. Black sludge inside. Which, gently caress me. I didn't routinely check the oil. Here's the thing: it was about 4,500 miles since the last oil change. Manual says every 7,500 is fine. I've never actually waited that long - I usually change it around 4k - but 7,500 is what it says, all the way through 120k. There were no sounds, no smells, no warning lights. Car drove fine right up to the second when it didn't. The mechanic called Hyundai, because there's a recall over bad engines dying just like this, but no dice - I had that fix done a couple years ago. He says it's sludge and hardly any of it - user error. So lesson learned here, check my goddamn oil. That was stupid, and I'm paying for it. But also...what the hell happened? I've been driving the car since 25k and I get the oil changed at the same interval the whole time - suddenly it just decides to eat all my oil? What could've caused this, or was it just old age and neglect?
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Feb 13, 2019 20:50
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jackpot posted:So lesson learned here, check my goddamn oil. That was stupid, and I'm paying for it. But also...what the hell happened? I've been driving the car since 25k and I get the oil changed at the same interval the whole time - suddenly it just decides to eat all my oil? What could've caused this, or was it just old age and neglect? You've either routinely been running to to nearly no oil (that's my guess since you mechanic says it's all sludgy in there) but changing the oil (i.e. topping it up) before you did major immediate damage, or you recently developed a new or worse oil leaking or burning problem which shortened the amount of time it still had enough to not junk itself. Running it down that low repeatedly absolutely make it burn more oil and will increase the rate at which is gets worse.
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Feb 13, 2019 21:01
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That sounds about right, thanks!
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Feb 13, 2019 21:08
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Is there anything I can do to improve the range of remote lock/unlock on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee? It's got the factory unlock system/remotes, I've made sure they have good batteries, but it's range is consistently about 6". Can I solder some sort of antenna onto the receiver or something?
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Feb 13, 2019 21:25
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Krakkles posted:Is there anything I can do to improve the range of remote lock/unlock on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee? Press it up under your chin with your mouth open when you click the button. Seriously. https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/tech-myth-holding-the-care-rem-83663
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Feb 13, 2019 21:28
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Edit: I was doing that wrong this whole time.
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Feb 13, 2019 21:35
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Enos Cabell posted:Press it up under your chin with your mouth open when you click the button. Seriously. https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/tech-myth-holding-the-care-rem-83663 I love this one because it usually goes "hahah another 'one weird trick to..' OH MY GOD IT WORKS."
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Feb 13, 2019 21:35
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On WJs the radio is borderline defective, my range is about 2'. I've had a remote start system sitting here to install in it but 
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Feb 13, 2019 21:40
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totalnewbie posted:I love this one because it usually goes "hahah another 'one weird trick to..' OH MY GOD IT WORKS." Yeah, the chin trick does indeed work.
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Feb 13, 2019 21:57
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Krakkles posted:Is there anything I can do to improve the range of remote lock/unlock on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee? And do you mean 6 inches or 6 feet?
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Feb 13, 2019 21:59
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Jeeze, on my aftermarket avital that I shoved into the driver's door, I get some stupid poo poo like 150 feet. I ran the antenna up the B pillar inside the window scraper trim.
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Feb 13, 2019 22:03
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Colostomy Bag posted:And do you mean 6 inches or 6 feet? (I should say, 6" from the body of the vehicle, which really means a couple of feet from the receiver, but ...)
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Feb 13, 2019 22:10
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Colostomy Bag posted:And do you mean 6 inches or 6 feet? Oh I misread it as 6' myself. Then yeah that XJ probably has the same dogshit useless system my WJ has. Krakkles: On the WJ the receiver is literally part of the passenger door module. I can unlock mine from the outside with one of my remotes, from immediately outside the passenger side only. Won't work from the driver's.
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Feb 13, 2019 22:53
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