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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh I misread it as 6' myself. Then yeah that XJ probably has the same dogshit useless system my WJ has.
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Feb 13, 2019 23:35
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I'm putting my car's air filter box on. The guy I bought the car from had a performance air filter installed, he also included the original air box filter, which I'm now reinstalling. I'm 80% positive my car is missing a bracket or sorts to hold down the air box filter. I know it's stupid to run it without it bolted down. But in the situation, I have to order a bracket online, could I run my car without it bolted? It's a Pontiac Vibe 03'. Fun little manual car with low milage I got cheap. EDIT: I may have answered my own question. zaepg fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Feb 13, 2019 |
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Feb 13, 2019 23:52
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zaepg posted:I'm putting my car's air filter box on. The guy I bought the car from had a performance air filter installed, he also included the original air box filter, which I'm now reinstalling.
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Feb 13, 2019 23:59
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Yeah if it's in a corner or something away from moving bits it'll make an annoying rattle but should be safe. Otherwise just wait.
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Feb 14, 2019 00:30
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I'll check the location of the box tomorrow. My hunch is it'll be ok.
zaepg fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 01:22
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fridge corn posted:Lol those discs are hosed. fridge corn posted:Looks like the bit they used to cut them was worn to gently caress also I wouldn't think skimming slotted (and drilled?) discs would be a very good idea either. If there was nothing wrong with the discs and you were just changing to a different kind of pad I would have just roughed them up with a bit of heavy grit sandpaper to deglaze them Motronic posted:An angle grinder would have done a better job. Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah....how the hell you place drilled rotors on the lathe to begin with... Great. so what the gently caress do I do? tell the shop to give me my money back? They stop fine but the noise (not squealing, just a loudish howling noise while driving) is pretty annoying. take them to a proper brake shop get skimmed again?
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Feb 14, 2019 02:17
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https://www.autobrakecenter.com/mit...2nvudca3gbno9a2 https://www.autobrakecenter.com/mit...2nvudca3gbno9a2 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 02:29
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Laserface posted:Great. Tell them they just bought you new rotors. And pads if you've been running on those for long enough. That is a poo poo job. At a bare minimum you should be getting every dime back that you paid them. But it should be more. They should make it right. But a shop that did that doesn't' seem capable of making it right. You'll need to play that one by ear when you go back. If a shop manager takes a look at those and goes "OH poo poo IM SO SORRY" let them fix it. If they argue that it's fine you don't want them ever touching your car again. E: BlackMK4 posted:https://www.autobrakecenter.com/mit...2nvudca3gbno9a2 JFC, those are not expensive rotors and not worth resurfacing. THESE are expensive rotors: https://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-991-gt3-girodisc-brake-rotors/ (and those are the budget choice) Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 02:30
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That shop hosed up your brakes. Period. It just hasn't contributed to an accident yet.
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Feb 14, 2019 02:46
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Motronic posted:Tell them they just bought you new rotors. And pads if you've been running on those for long enough. to put slotted rotors on it, brand new, is around $860AUD delivered (DBA 4000 T3s). I was going to go for plain rotors when they were required to be changed, which are about $200 cheaper total.
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Feb 14, 2019 05:30
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Laserface posted:$860AUD Ohhhhh...that detail makes all the difference and sense around crazy pricing. Yeah, I bet a lot more rotors ARE worth surfacing as compared to in the US/EU.
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Feb 14, 2019 16:11
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Motronic posted:Ohhhhh...that detail makes all the difference and sense around crazy pricing. Yeah, I bet a lot more rotors ARE worth surfacing as compared to in the US/EU. A lot of it boils down to "gotta pay if you wanna play".
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Feb 14, 2019 16:21
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C-Bangin' it 
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Is there a general list of when it's time to replace X you should upgrade from OEM? Just for daily driving, not the track or main street cruzin'.
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Feb 14, 2019 17:15
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I think it's largely down to personal preference, so no, probably not. For me, lights, tires, shocks/struts, and brakes (pads, at least, maybe rotors?) are probably the standouts. They'll have the largest effect on daily drives.
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Feb 14, 2019 17:37
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So, I'm in the process of swapping a k20 into my AW11 and I have a few plumbing questions. The oem toyota hvac in the mr2 was full of mouse poo poo and mold so I tossed the whole unit, the coolant/heater pipes that run from the motor to the rad and heater car were also hosed and full of rust so I tossed those too. I can weld so I'm just going to modify a rad with -16AN bungs and use some aftermarket stuff to get 16AN outlets on the head and thermostat housing and run those hoses up to the nose. The question is how to add a heater. Should I loop the heater lines at the back of the water pump and tee the 16AN rad lines to the heater core? Or should I just use hose and jubilee clamps on the honda heater outlets and run them through the car to an aftermarket heater core? TWSS fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 17:49
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Dukket posted:Is there a general list of when it's time to replace X you should upgrade from OEM? No.
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Feb 14, 2019 18:21
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This, unless something is literally defective or under-spec from the factory.
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Feb 14, 2019 18:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:This, unless something is literally defective or under-spec from the factory. Sure Also, I didn't mean "you HAVE" to upgrade this", more if it's time to replace tires/air filter/ oil filter/brakes etc it's worth it to upgrade, but you don't need to. I'm going to be replacing my tires soon and plan to upgrade mostly with hopes of something quieter (so many choices!). I bought "better" bulbs for my headlights when they burned out. Edit: I ask this mostly for the "I didn't know that" factor. For example I didn't know that a lot of road noise can come from your tires. I just always thought non OEM tires were for track dorks. Dukket fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 18:50
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Dukket posted:Sure I don’t know about OEM specifically, but I generally buy the best I can afford with regards to tires and braking equipment. I want the best quality items for stopping. Everything else can be convenient or whatever.
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Feb 14, 2019 18:59
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Dukket posted:Sure On regular maintenance items like filters, OEM parts are generally considered as high end as anything else out there. Brakes, specifically brake pads, there can be some actual differences, but then this also becomes highly dependent on what you're doing with the car and what deficiencies you think it may have. Pads are a part where once you get off of the bottom of the barrel, improvements in one area usually come at the expense of performance in other areas. A pad that has high bite when cold probably won't survive the heat involved in heavy track use. Pads with more bite overall generally make more dust, more noise, and wear rotors out more quickly than a typical pad. There's always some exceptions to this. Mazda's OE pads for the MS3, for example, were insanely dusty for no good reason. Any decent aftermarket pad offers similar performance, while generating far less dust.
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Feb 14, 2019 19:08
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Always buy the best tires you can since those little pads on the bottom of them is literally everything there is to changing direction and stopping your vehicle. Don't cheap out on your bed, don't cheap out on your tires.
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Feb 14, 2019 20:17
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KakerMix posted:Always buy the best tires you can since those little pads on the bottom of them is literally everything there is to changing direction and stopping your vehicle.
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Feb 14, 2019 20:20
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For any car I’ve had recently the oem tires were more expensive than almost anything else while only being OK compared to the alternatives. This is for regular passenger tires too, not just performance stuff.
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Feb 14, 2019 21:02
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My van's OE size is apparently out of style now so four generic passenger car tires for it is like $700.  Or I have to deal with odometer error if I jump to the next closest size.
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Feb 14, 2019 21:06
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Krakkles posted:I've heard this further as "Don't cheap out on anything that connects you to the ground - bed, tires, and shoes." That's much more concise yeah.
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Feb 14, 2019 21:07
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How bad an idea is buying 7 year old coils with 40kkm on them for 30-40% of the price of new ones?
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Feb 14, 2019 21:46
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MrOnBicycle posted:How bad an idea is buying 7 year old coils with 40kkm on them for 30-40% of the price of new ones? Bad.
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Feb 14, 2019 22:06
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Remember that an upgraded-from-OEM part is sometimes (often?) just the OEM part with different packaging and price.
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Feb 14, 2019 22:27
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totalnewbie posted:Remember that an upgraded-from-OEM part is sometimes (often?) just the OEM part with different packaging and price. Now that I thought about this I was thinking the of big things...so I'll retract my statement a tad. Imagine one of the big boys screws up an item (such as a window regulator or a slider) so many times that another company rolls in to save the day with a cheaper fix. The name of that company is Dorman.
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Feb 14, 2019 22:51
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Friends don't let friends buy used
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Feb 14, 2019 23:02
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Queen Combat posted:Friends don't let friends buy used Well I don't know, used Lucas electrical products have served me well in my non-functional vehical.
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Feb 14, 2019 23:09
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Stupid question: is there an Audi thread? My gf is looking at buying a lowish mileage 2016 TTS to replace her 2010 3.8 Gen Coupe. We're going to check it out this weekend and we'll probably do a PPI but I'm wondering if any goons have a similar vintage Mk3 TTS. The virtual cockpit looks great, the seats look supportive, and fold down seats and a hatch seem good. She was also pining for a 982 Cayman, but she loves the color of this one and it seems like it might be a more practical DD. No idea how reliability or build quality compares. I've only driven a 2006ish Boxster and was really put off at the cheap interior and melting, sticky buttons on the radio.
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Feb 15, 2019 00:30
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Javid posted:My van's OE size is apparently out of style now so four generic passenger car tires for it is like $700. This is a pretty irritating problem, I feel your pain. All I want is a 205/70-15ish tire that tracks straight and has a 5/8" whitewall for less money than $COKER$.
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Feb 15, 2019 03:21
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At this point I just want four matching tires, with tread, that won't throw my odometer >1% off. OE is 235/70, Schwab suggests 225/75 as the closest possible thing. E: Alternatively, the speedometer error from a 265/75 would actually make my speedo nearly correct, at a cost of a nearly 10% odometer error. And 1.5% more ground clearance!
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Feb 15, 2019 05:40
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Javid posted:
Every time that wheel turn 'round You're bound to cover just a little more ground
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Feb 15, 2019 06:01
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Colostomy Bag posted:Now that I thought about this I was thinking the of big things...so I'll retract my statement a tad. Sometimes. Sometimes the Dorman part has the exact same flaw, in the exact same way, as the OEM part. I can change WJ window regulators in my loving sleep now.
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Feb 15, 2019 06:03
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Ok, gut feeling confirmed, won't buy used coils! Dodge Dart owners have reported better driveability and less hesitation problems on the multiair engine when putting in Alfa 4C coils instead of the standard ones. So I was looking at a "if I need to change, what will it cost" scenario.
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Feb 15, 2019 11:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:Sometimes. Yeah, was sort of implying the OEM design is screwed up so bad why not go with a cheaper alternative. As for window regulators, I feel your pain. I often wonder at the marvel of engineering (or the sadistic rear end in a top hat) that designs the opening for these. Ford cracked me up because they use rivets to hold them on. One of those "I would love to see how fast and easy they do this on the production line."
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Feb 15, 2019 13:39
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They have all kinds of special jigs and arms and poo poo so it's probably nbd for them
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Feb 15, 2019 18:14
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So I've been googling the issue with my overdrive; the most common answer I find is to directly switch the OD solenoid, bypassing the computer control, and see if it shifts or not. If it shifts, something in the ECU or sensor is hosed. If it doesn't, make sure there's good power to the switch, if so then it's actually in the transmission, in which case rip. Either way you've narrowed it down to electrical or mechanical, and if it's electrical you can just leave the switch in place if you don't wanna deal with it. A) does that sounds like a bad idea? B) how many amps do I need to plan around when buying a switch? C) what happens if the switch gets bumped when I'm going like 25 mph or something? If I can grenade my transmission like that, I'm much less interested.
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Feb 16, 2019 19:33
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