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Ghost Hand posted:I'm going to hate myself - but when that cart opens on March 1st I'm going to try to get one. More importantly to me though is getting into the narrative event that SRM goes on and on about. The narrative event owns. I love it. If you want a SuperNOVA don't even worry about getting the info right in the cart. Just get it purchased; stuff in your cart isn't safe.
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Feb 16, 2019 17:50
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I'm trying to clear my tyranid backlog a bit and would like some input from the hive mind. I painted this tervigon egg sac with ratskin flesh (old pot) then washed it with a 1:1:1 mix of water, agrax druchii violet. I think it could do with some highlight, possibly yellowy, but keeping the violet slime tinge also maybe. I want to make it look really gross, slimy and organic but I'm a bit at a loss. I'm open to starting over if needs be. 
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Feb 16, 2019 18:02
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I almost regret starting to paint the two Death Cult assassins I got because it reinforces how much I dislike working with metal minis. Especially when the model in question is over detailed like the DCA's are a bit and when at the same time the details feels so muddled so I end up squinting constantly trying to figure what is what. The lack of all around reference pictures doesn't help either so I haven't gotten much to work with other than the single GW store picture.
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Feb 16, 2019 18:03
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IPA Regulations posted:I'm trying to clear my tyranid backlog a bit and would like some input from the hive mind. Organic stuff is rarely uniform, so maybe experiment with a wet blend of subtle color shifts? You can then bring it all together with a wash. Skin is also partially translucent so having multiple layers will also help with that. A gloss coating would also help it look slimey and organic, but some folks prefer a matte coating.
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Feb 16, 2019 18:06
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Sab669 posted:This is sweet! What model is that? Thanks! That's Haarken Worldclaimer but I put a finecast Chaos Lord with Jump Pack on him so he'd match my metal raptors aesthetically (also I like those jump packs more).
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Feb 16, 2019 18:25
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IPA Regulations posted:Tervigon sac  ), having it drip down to the base and coating the termagants. Frankly I think the skin looks pretty good, maybe just adding a touch of highlight to the raised areas and highlighting the veins with a darker tone like a watered-down purple or red.
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Feb 16, 2019 18:27
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Peachy's customisations are incredibly good. His work is super inspiring and he's great craic on Warhammer TV. His painting videos have taught me a poo poo load too. Peachy (and Duncan) for life.
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Feb 16, 2019 19:45
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Organic stuff is rarely uniform, so maybe experiment with a wet blend of subtle color shifts?.. I've not done much wet blending but could give it a shot... I definitely like the idea of a gloss varnish over part at least, possibly as Pierre says keep it around the... Out ramp. PierreTheMime posted:Frankly I think the skin looks pretty good, maybe just adding a touch of highlight to the raised areas and highlighting the veins with a darker tone like a watered-down purple or red. All good sounding, thanks for the tips. What colour to highlight the raised bits do, you think? The base colour again (ratskin), but lightened up by mixing it with some bone colour or a chalky yellow like averland sunset or something? I'm worried about it clashing with the violet/agrax shade.. I know I can really just experiment a bit, but it's already been painted over once so I don't want to go lathering on a bunch more layers then having to start over. And stripping it would be a big pain (has magnets superglued in little greenstuff mounts).
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Feb 16, 2019 20:23
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IPA Regulations posted:What colour to highlight the raised bits do, you think? The base colour again (ratskin), but lightened up by mixing it with some bone colour or a chalky yellow like averland sunset or something? I'm worried about it clashing with the violet/agrax shade.. Try out the veins first, since they’re the easiest to just paint back over if you don’t like the result. Personally I would do almost exactly what you described, just lightening the current tone with a bone or white and making some very gentle highlights on the raised edges. I’m not quite sure if the yellow would work out, typically when something organic stretches it exposes more of the raw flesh color and makes it lighter, so having it a different color at the edges might look a little odd.
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Feb 16, 2019 21:07
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Yes, that makes sense. I'll give the bone a go and report back. It will feel good when the big old girl is finally done, then the next thing on the nid checklist will be to nail down a speedy airbrush technique for ~ 30 termagants.
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Feb 16, 2019 21:49
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IPA Regulations posted:I'm trying to clear my tyranid backlog a bit and would like some input from the hive mind. Can you paint like purple veins all over it? Feels like it needs something to make it pop. The skin texture is just perfect though. What is your overall tyranid scheme like?
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Feb 17, 2019 01:51
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Just got back from that tournament I had the 'nids list for, asking for feedback. Kraken worked great! First game was versus Knights, The Four Pillars, lost 5 to 7 and I made a lot of mistakes, losing to the the guy that ended up in second. Second game was also against another Knights, Vital Intelligence, but with everything fresh in my mind, I won 36 to 0, beating the guy who eventually came in first. Third game was against World Eaters, Narrow the Search, and I won 10 to 1, tabling my opponent twice thanks to acceptable losses and reserves.. The eventual first and second place played in the third round, which apparently tanked my strength of schedule because I'd already been matched up against my appropriate opponents and had to play against someone with no wins for the day.
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Feb 17, 2019 02:26
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SpikeMcclane posted:Just got back from that tournament I had the 'nids list for, asking for feedback. Kraken worked great! Nice work! The placement seems a bit unfair, and is especially confusing considering someone taking what seems to be a full loss can come in first. What were your overall impressions of the list? I’m curious if your relatively small amount of synapse ended up causing any trouble.
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Feb 17, 2019 02:45
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I'm curious about playing against Knights in a tournament environment. It's still been a while since I played, but the general way I built lists was 'all comers'. A few answers to heavy armor, a few answers to close combat, etc. If you bring an all comers list against Knights, is it just going to be an uphill slog from the getgo?
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Feb 17, 2019 02:56
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Clawtopsy posted:I'm curious about playing against Knights in a tournament environment. It's still been a while since I played, but the general way I built lists was 'all comers'. A few answers to heavy armor, a few answers to close combat, etc. They can be brutal, but if you play to the objectives their few models can only be so many places at once. You win through strategy, not brute force.
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Feb 17, 2019 03:03
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PierreTheMime posted:They can be brutal, but if you play to the objectives their few models can only be so many places at once. You win through strategy, not brute force. As a Knight player, this is correct. Hordes who can control the board and force the Knights to slog through tons of crappy wounds make the hardest games. Just play to the objectives, try to score points, and don't worry about going straight at the Knights.
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Feb 17, 2019 03:08
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PierreTheMime posted:Nice work! The placement seems a bit unfair, and is especially confusing considering someone taking what seems to be a full loss can come in first. It was a small turnout and there was noone with a 3-0 record. The first game, my opponent chose to give me first turn, and I hated it. I forgot to do the Harpy's flyover spores and was playing a bit too conservative on CP, so I didn't try to double-move a meotic spore. I majorly wiffed on charge roles, so Traitor's Pyre got to do some major work. Synapse only mattered on turn five because a unit of rippers ran. My opponent having only four one-model units meant that what little I had outside of synapse didn't matter much. I also forgot to declare the target of my warlord trait, so I didn't have some key re-rolls. The mission rules basically had us playing two different games, so my opponent just had to keep me off of one objective all game so I'd only get one point a turn and he could easily ensure he killed more units than me each turn. Failing to get slay the warlord or first strike cost me dearly. Second game, I lost one broodlord. I deployed first and both me and my opponent castled front and center in front-line assault, so I took first turn. The Hive Tyrant remained alive at one wound and the other broodlord was fine when I wiped the last Knight. I learned my mistakes from the first game and rolled a bit better on round one. I focused down his warlord with a bunch of mortal wounds, all the shooting, and plinked off the last 2 wounds with the broodlords while the genestealer unit got 17 bodies into combat with a castellan. Got the Castellan down to 11 wounds (Hawkshroud!  ). It was just a systematic and brutal takedown of three Knights and I tabled him on the top of two, so synapse never came into play.Third game, deployment was search and destroy deployment and I deployed first. Two assault-heavy armies with one objective in the center of the table? Deployment and first turn were no-brainers. My opponent brought a pretty fluffy list: Kharne the Betrayer and 8 Berserkers in a Rhino, a Chaos Lord in Terminator armor, 8 Warp Talons, 8 Terminators, two units of cultists, and two Heldrakes. Heldrakes on the flanks, cultists screening. Harpy dropped spores on the warp talons, charged the Rhino and a Heldrake. Shooting killed most of the cultists and left 4 warp talons. Both Heldrakes died in combat. Terrain was tight in the center, so the broodlords hung back between the charging genestealers and the carnifexes. Berserkers and Special K hopped out of the Rhino. Everything shot at the Harpy and the Hive Tyrant, the former dieing and the latter tanking like a boss with lucky catalyst rolls. The berserkers blended the genestealers instantly. Top of two, I shot everything dead, tabling him for the first time. Terminators and the lord dropped in behind my lines and killed a broodlord and a carnifex. I expected it, so I had spores mixed in so he couldn't charge me without them blowing up in his face. He made the charge and lost a couple terminators to overwatch and a couple more to the spores. A broodlord heroicly intervened on his Lord, got pasted by said Lord, and then took the Lord with him using the fight/shoot when killed stratagem. Top of three, I tabled him again and it was over. Harpy did the job I wanted it to do in all three games, which was being the Hive Tyrant's wingman. Mortal wounds and fights last along with 2d3 S9 D3 shots were enough that it got focused down before the Tyrant. If I dropped it, I would actually consider dropping the Tyrant's wings or taking the Swarmlord instead, depending on what filled the points. My secondary reason for bringing it, charging airborne flyers, never came up.
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Feb 17, 2019 03:40
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Clawtopsy posted:I'm curious about playing against Knights in a tournament environment. It's still been a while since I played, but the general way I built lists was 'all comers'. A few answers to heavy armor, a few answers to close combat, etc. Generally speaking you do want your army to be a take all comers list. And you want to be active in as many phases as possible. However knights (specifically knights + imperial guard allies) significantly warped the tournament meta. At the 2019 LVO, the biggest and arguably toughest 40k tournament around, three of the four finalists were Knight soups. If you look at the absolutely top lists from tournaments they generally do at least one of the following: 1. Can somewhat reliably kill a castellan T1. Or 2. Can Kill the vast majority of everything besides the castellan T1. Or 3. Are some gimmicky list that can win in a different way. Like a super resilient nurgle horde that slow plays to win the game on T2. Knight + guard lists are a gatekeeper list at tournaments. If you can’t at least have a punchers chance at beating it, then you aren’t going to go far in the tournament. It’s the hands down best army archetype in competitive 40k AND it’s usually one of the most prevalent lists in the tournament. JIZZ DENOUEMENT fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 04:40
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Generally speaking you do want your army to be a take all comers list. And you want to be active in as many phases as possible. I would argue that the Eldar lists are the best army in 40k. The Knight Guard soup is the best foil to that. It's a big paper rock scissors game. Cultist/Ork armies that flood the board are super hard for the Knight/Guard lists, but get worked pretty hard by Eldar. It's an interesting meta, but I feel without the Castellan, Eldar would be smashing these tournaments even harder (there were just as many Eldar lists in the top 8 as knight soup).
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Feb 17, 2019 05:35
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quote:Ksi’m’yen is consumed by war, and quarantined for almost ten years before the eccentric Ethereal Aun’ghol declares it productive and clean. Ethereal "Own Goal." Nice.
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Feb 17, 2019 08:03
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:3. Are some gimmicky list that can win in a different way. Like a super resilient nurgle horde that slow plays to win the game on T2. Cheat, in other words?
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Feb 17, 2019 09:53
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Looks like the next WD has stratagem rules for Assassins, including an interesting one to use them without needing a whole detachment https://imgur.com/a/kgH6ycq  Edit: the Vindicare and Eversor get revised rules too xtothez fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 10:37
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xtothez posted:Looks like the next WD has stratagem rules for Assassins, including an interesting one to use them without needing a whole detachment Isn't the first one worse than just taking an -1CP penalty for an auxiliary detachment?
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Feb 17, 2019 11:33
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Lizard Combatant posted:Isn't the first one worse than just taking an -1CP penalty for an auxiliary detachment? Not if you're in a competitive environment with a max of 3 detachments. Means you're not wasting a vanguard on one model.
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Feb 17, 2019 11:38
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Lizard Combatant posted:Isn't the first one worse than just taking an -1CP penalty for an auxiliary detachment? No, because a) you can have three full detachments *and* this, and b) you get to decide which assassin you bring on after you see your opponent’s list.
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Feb 17, 2019 11:39
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They also gave all kinds of assassin the same points cost so you don't waste any reinforcement points. I think some army builds have a chance to refund that 1CP too, unlike an auc detachment.
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Feb 17, 2019 11:53
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Thanks folks. I do like the ability to pick up some cp with the assassin.
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Feb 17, 2019 12:06
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I'm adding some more Skitarii dollies to my Kill Team, but I'm having a bitch of a time actually gluing their tiny feet onto the bases; the surface area is just too small to make a join worth a drat. Has anyone had any similar experiences, and perhaps a solution? e: This isn't unique to these particular models, either; nor does the glue seem to be the culprit. Both of my dunecrawler models have detached from their bases - one was super-glued to the base, the other one with Citadel plastic glue. inscrutable horse fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 13:08
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inscrutable horse posted:I'm adding some more Skitarii dollies to my Kill Team, but I'm having a bitch of a time actually gluing their tiny feet onto the bases; the surface area is just too small to make a join worth a drat. Has anyone had any similar experiences, and perhaps a solution? I had no problem with mine, plastic glue and holding them in position for a minute or so and you're done.
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Feb 17, 2019 13:11
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inscrutable horse posted:I'm adding some more Skitarii dollies to my Kill Team, but I'm having a bitch of a time actually gluing their tiny feet onto the bases; the surface area is just too small to make a join worth a drat. Has anyone had any similar experiences, and perhaps a solution? Not had that problem personally, but here are some suggestions 1. Glue them on before you add basing material - plastic to plastic 2. Use plastic glue - use solvent types if you have access 3. Pin them to the base if you have resin bases which are not compatible with plastic glue.
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Feb 17, 2019 13:13
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That doesn't seem any different from how I'm already doing things. Could something else be at work? Am I perhaps using too little glue? Does ambient temperature play a role? I'm using the standard GW bases, should I perhaps sand them down a bit first?
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Feb 17, 2019 13:19
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inscrutable horse posted:I'm adding some more Skitarii dollies to my Kill Team, but I'm having a bitch of a time actually gluing their tiny feet onto the bases; the surface area is just too small to make a join worth a drat. Has anyone had any similar experiences, and perhaps a solution? My skitarii were all done by gluing just the legs to the base first (they won't overbalance by themselves), assembling the body, then prime and base coat both separately. Makes it much each to get some of the details, especially the inside of the cloak. Once that and the legs themselves were painted, both halves can be stuck together.
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Feb 17, 2019 13:31
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Flavivirus posted:No, because a) you can have three full detachments *and* this, and b) you get to decide which assassin you bring on after you see your opponent’s list. So you pay 1 CP and 85 points for the ability to take up to a Culexus (which could be swapped out for a less expensive one as-needed at drop time) right? E: EvilBeard posted:I would argue that the Eldar lists are the best army in 40k. The Knight Guard soup is the best foil to that. It's a big paper rock scissors game. Cultist/Ork armies that flood the board are super hard for the Knight/Guard lists, but get worked pretty hard by Eldar. Maybe a dual flux Leviathan? That's a pretty good way to thin hordes, although once you've gotten a drop pod to reliably get it where you need it that's 413 points? Comedy Pask-in-a-Punisher option? Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 13:33
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Schadenboner posted:So you pay 1 CP and 85 points for the ability to take up to a Culexus (which could be swapped out for a less expensive one as-needed at drop time) right? They’re all 85 points now, but yeah.
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Feb 17, 2019 14:02
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inscrutable horse posted:I'm adding some more Skitarii dollies to my Kill Team, but I'm having a bitch of a time actually gluing their tiny feet onto the bases; the surface area is just too small to make a join worth a drat. Has anyone had any similar experiences, and perhaps a solution? Finds some light grain sandpaper, and rough up the edges you want to glue together. This increases the surface area (slightly) and also removes any coating on the plastic. Recent plastic I haven’t had any issues, but older stuff (such as ork boyz) I have noticed seem to have a coating of release agent or something.
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Feb 17, 2019 14:03
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xtothez posted:My skitarii were all done by gluing just the legs to the base first (they won't overbalance by themselves), assembling the body, then prime and base coat both separately. Makes it much each to get some of the details, especially the inside of the cloak. Once that and the legs themselves were painted, both halves can be stuck together. That's what I do, the cloaks are horrible to paint fully assembled.
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Feb 17, 2019 14:07
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xtothez posted:My skitarii were all done by gluing just the legs to the base first (they won't overbalance by themselves), assembling the body, then prime and base coat both separately. Makes it much each to get some of the details, especially the inside of the cloak. Once that and the legs themselves were painted, both halves can be stuck together. OhDearGodNo posted:Finds some light grain sandpaper, and rough up the edges you want to glue together. This increases the surface area (slightly) and also removes any coating on the plastic. Thanks for the advice, I'll try this out later tonight. If worst comes to worst, I'll try pinning the models.
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Feb 17, 2019 15:03
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Testor's Model Master Liquid Cement is the poo poo. Go get some.
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Feb 17, 2019 15:13
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The citadel plastic glue has never let me down
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Feb 17, 2019 15:15
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If you can, find the Testors one with a metal applicator. It's fantastic.
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Feb 17, 2019 15:16
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