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I don't know vans, but if I were trying to lead the vanlyfe I'd want to get one built on a truck frame. I think the Safari and whatever the Chevy version is both have class IV hitches, and there are 4wd models. Older Ford E models are pretty common around here, most of which have been stripped and driven hard by mechanics/handymen/plumbers/etc. I think they shared engines and trannys with the F-series trucks, so are pretty serviceable just about anywhere and basic stuff is pretty easy to do yourself.
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Feb 8, 2019 00:33
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Thanks for the quick advice. I'm dead set on an Odyssey, as I've always liked them and it checks all the boxes for our use case. I like the aesthetic and how they drive and all the comforts and the fuel economy. I've checked out transits and big GM vans , and I just hate them to death. Sorry, I just looked at all the options and the Ody checks all the boxes for me. Can't put anything inside because inside will be filled with a comfy bed and batteries and stuff. So it's gotta be mounted to the back. It really blows my mind that the bolts holding the hitch on don't snap off. That's where I thought the limiting factor would be, other than pull weight. Razzled posted:my 4runner can barely even haul the drz on the back What is the problem with it? Lack of power? Suspension sagging?
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Feb 8, 2019 00:44
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Coydog posted:Thanks for the quick advice. I'm dead set on an Odyssey, as I've always liked them and it checks all the boxes for our use case. I like the aesthetic and how they drive and all the comforts and the fuel economy. I've checked out transits and big GM vans , and I just hate them to death. Sorry, I just looked at all the options and the Ody checks all the boxes for me. Yeah, that's why I really wouldn't go over 300lbs for my bike. It's unibody so it's just those bolts holding it on. That said, you should be just fine with a lighter bike. The bike on the back is going to bounce the van around because of leverage. If you can get better rear shocks it might help with this a bit. Anyway, either the grom or a lighter dirtbike/dual sport depending on what you want to do with it. You probably can do the DR650 and it will probably be fine, but I personally wouldn't risk it. This is the hitch I have. It's excellent. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rrr-amc-400 Get one of these too. https://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B01ISA2CUO/ I also use these, but they're overkill and regular tie downs are fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026FCG90 If you want, you can put a couple of trailer brake lights on the back of the hitch hauler and connect them to the trailer lights but you may need to install trailer lights first so may not be worth it. Also, don't forget that once you put on a hitch you can't get in through the back.
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Feb 8, 2019 01:22
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Razzled posted:get a real car if you want to use a hitch rack. that or an econoline type box van. I haul my wr250 on the back on my 4th gen (2008) 4runner and I agree. I have a class three hitch and a tongue weight max of 500lbs+. With the bike (240lbs) and the hitch rack (80lbs) I clearly have a lot of room left weight wise but I don't know I would trust a much heavier bike on there. The highways around here (i90 near seattle) can get really bouncy at 70mph and then take into consideration some of the back roads and fire roads to get up to riding country ... If you plan on hauling bikes a lot, just get a trailer, van or pickup and be done with it.
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Feb 8, 2019 01:57
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Coydog why are you so opposed to a trailer? You could pick up one of the short deckless folding HF trailers, strengthen a couple things, and mount two bike rails. It’d weigh nothing empty, be pretty storeable, and you’d never have to worry about possibly loving your frame by dragging a hitch carrier across a speed bump or dip with the 650 on.
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Feb 8, 2019 03:18
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Coydog posted:Thanks for the quick advice. I'm dead set on an Odyssey, as I've always liked them and it checks all the boxes for our use case. I like the aesthetic and how they drive and all the comforts and the fuel economy. I've checked out transits and big GM vans , and I just hate them to death. Sorry, I just looked at all the options and the Ody checks all the boxes for me. 4runners are Class 3 with a tongue weight rating of 500 lbs. Drz is ~340 with fuel and the old mototote rack I have is like 110 or something stupid I still think jury rigging a minivan with some crappy uhaul hitch to carry a grom is dumb. Learn to love a trailer or get a real car
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Feb 8, 2019 16:52
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it's definitely the most retarded idea ever
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Feb 8, 2019 17:10
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It looks like you can get airsprings for the Honda. I'd think it would be fine if you went that route. They are one of the more expensive minivans so I'm not sure why you're married to that exact model. There may be other vans that aren't body on frame but are setup a bit better for towing.
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Feb 8, 2019 20:14
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I appreciate the response positive/negative. I agree that something more truck like would be the right choice for carrying a bike, and don't want to get too "goon in the well" over it. That said, cargo vans are awful metal boxes that are usually American made. My ears may still be ringing from the drive to Cincinnati in a ford transit. On top of that, gas mileage isn't great. I just don't need that much vehicle. n8r posted:It looks like you can get airsprings for the Honda. I'd think it would be fine if you went that route. They are one of the more expensive minivans so I'm not sure why you're married to that exact model. There may be other vans that aren't body on frame but are setup a bit better for towing. Odysseys have been on my radar since I drove one years back. It drove nice and seemed well designed. They look sporty and clean, with lot's of features human people would like. It even has a sunroof. I like that they are low to the ground, and efficient, but with a massive cargo area to stretch out in. Oh yeah, and every soccer mom ever bought one so you can find well maintained ones for $3-4k all day long. I'd rather compromise in the bike I bring than the van I choose. I researched everything from Previas to ford transits, and the honda was always the nice choice. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Coydog why are you so opposed to a trailer? You could pick up one of the short deckless folding HF trailers, strengthen a couple things, and mount two bike rails. It’d weigh nothing empty, be pretty storeable, and you’d never have to worry about possibly loving your frame by dragging a hitch carrier across a speed bump or dip with the 650 on. I really like the compact nature of a hitch carrier. It's just mounted to the back out of the way and you don't have to worry about it. Seems easy to load and unload too. I didn't consider a folding trailer. Is that something that could really pack small enough to be stored on the roof or something? I don't like the idea of having to assemble one as needed. builds character posted:Yeah, that's why I really wouldn't go over 300lbs for my bike. It's unibody so it's just those bolts holding it on. That said, you should be just fine with a lighter bike. Thanks for all this, and not just because you told me what I wanted to hear. I'll pick up all that stuff, especially the stabilizer. I wondered how the side to side movement could be managed. I did a bunch of research last night and, like n8r mentioned, most Odyssey people put in air springs or devices, and maybe stiffer springs, to manage heavy loads. I can deal with that, and will make sure the load is something well under 300lb. The grom is 225lb, and would be easy to get on and off of a hitch carrier. Something else light like the xt225 could be gotten if the grom couldn't hack it. TW200 might be too chunky.
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Feb 9, 2019 01:45
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Are you about to be living out of this thing? Sounds like you’re about to be homeless or traveling a whole lot. No, the HF folding trailers aren’t something you want on the roof of a minivan. Not trying to convince you further on a big American van, but one of the first steps in most dedicated builds I’ve seen is stripping and insulating because they’re so loud. Seems to add up to a couple hundred pounds if you’re thorough. If you’re going to commit enough to do the suspension though, you should also be able to do the necessary work to get a good receiver hitch that can handle it. Rather than the standard aluminum rails, you could get one of the hitch carriers for dirt bikes that is just a small platform for the frame/bash plate that cams the bike way up in the air for clearance.
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Feb 9, 2019 02:02
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For $4500 I grabbed a 28’ 1995 Winnebago and tossed a hitch carrier on it. Odysseys are cool vans tho.
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Feb 9, 2019 03:48
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Oh gosh I'm not gonna be living out of it. It's just a weekender and maybe longer trips. A turnkey micro camper with everything always packed including clothes, so we can head to the mountains or tail of the dragon or the beach at the drop of the hat. And not have to fool with a tent and tarps and stuff ever again. Otherwise it's just a grocery getter and occasional commuter, plus acting as a cargo van for picking up large items like furniture. I don't need the Taj Mahal. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Rather than the standard aluminum rails, you could get one of the hitch carriers for dirt bikes that is just a small platform for the frame/bash plate that cams the bike way up in the air for clearance. I'm familiar with the single rail style, but not the mount you mention. Could you link one? Might be a moot point, as the grom cannot be supported from underneath.
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Feb 9, 2019 07:08
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Like this.
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Feb 9, 2019 09:47
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His girl wants the Odyssey. Coy is just saving face. 😀 EDIT: I'm failing to get over the disconnect of a man who finds the dull, Amish appeal of the tractor-like D650 exciting, yet snubbing his nose at the ever sleek and sexy lines of ford's absolutely timeless e-series econoline offerings. tjones fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 15:29
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My dude. Pontiac aztek
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Feb 9, 2019 16:44
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tjones posted:His girl wants the Odyssey. Coy is just saving face. 😀 If he was an rear end in a top hat or bad poster we could all tell him he’s just a dumbass for not immediately lookin for an 80s Chevy G20 panel because there is no vehicle more moto. The Dodge counterpart is cool too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CedHE-lJf3M HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 17:15
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tjones posted:His girl wants the Odyssey. Coy is just saving face. 😀 You need to ride a DR650, dull they aren't.
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Feb 9, 2019 18:38
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:If he was an rear end in a top hat or bad poster we could all tell him he’s just a dumbass for not immediately lookin for an 80s Chevy G20 panel because there is no vehicle more moto. I unironically want one of these. With shag carpet, a disco ball, and a wizard painted on the side.
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Feb 9, 2019 18:59
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I hope you mean Death Is Certain because honestly what other wizard would you paint on the side of a van
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Feb 9, 2019 19:07
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Renaissance Robot posted:I hope you mean Death Is Certain because honestly what other wizard would you paint on the side of a van Wizzard* Rincewind specially.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:51
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I would like recommendations for the following: 1.) A good crimping tool for solderless bullet connectors, ring terminals, etc. The cheap poo poo that comes with the 115-piece electrical set from O'Reilly is just that, cheap poo poo. 2.) The best permanent electrical connectors. Are those butt splice things you can hit with a little torch or heat gun good? I thought I was safe from PO wiring harness fuckery but of course not, why would I be?
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Feb 14, 2019 22:44
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I would like recommendations for the following: I use the narva ratchet crimper, has detachable jaws that can do the full range of different terminal types. Not cheap though. In terms of terminals, only terrible people and rank amateurs use the 'insulated' variety with the color coded plastic bits, the best kind are uninsulated bullet terminals with transparent sheaths for individual wires, proper multipin connectors for bigger stuff. There are several standards out there, all of them work pretty good as long as you get waterproof ones. Dielectric grease is also a must. The best permanent connection is solder + heat shrink if you're talking wire to wire.
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Feb 14, 2019 23:37
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I like these a lot. https://smile.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM/
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Feb 15, 2019 05:12
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You just hit those with a heat gun and the solder melts too? Sounds pretty easy
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Feb 15, 2019 07:27
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MomJeans420 posted:You just hit those with a heat gun and the solder melts too? Sounds pretty easy Yup. Worked pretty well for me so far. If you want to go nuts you can put another layer of heat shrink tubing over the top.
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Feb 15, 2019 15:55
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I haven't found any wire nuts yet, but there's some obvious splices that are just twisted and taped.
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Feb 15, 2019 16:23
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builds character posted:Yup. Worked pretty well for me so far. If you want to go nuts you can put another layer of heat shrink tubing over the top. If they get hot from the engine do they loosen up? I might want some of these...
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Feb 15, 2019 17:01
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RadioPassive posted:If they get hot from the engine do they loosen up? I might want some of these... No more than any other heat shrink. So no, not in my experience.
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Feb 15, 2019 18:32
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Yeah, most heat shrink has to take a ton of heat to go through a state change. Like laying against the header hot.
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Feb 15, 2019 18:51
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How far above the max line does oil have to get before the crankshaft starts frothing it? I was recently merging onto the highway in a CBR300R, and I was about to hit the rev limiter in about 3rd gear when the engine died suddenly, I think right about as I let off the throttle. This is obviously a pretty unsettling experience at 70 mph on an on ramp. When I stopped on the shoulder I cranked the engine and it was turning over, but not actually turning on. It did finally start after I cranked it and gave it a little throttle, after which it appeared to idle and run normally. When I checked the oil level when I got home I realized it was a few mm above the max fill line in the sight glass, but otherwise there weren't any obvious problems with the bike. So, could I have accidentally had oil get on the crank? And if not, what other causes might there be for a sudden loss of power after letting the throttle off at a high rpm?
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Feb 17, 2019 05:10
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Are you checking the oil with the bike upright or on the side stand? If the answer is upright, your problem almost certainly has nothing to do with your oil. It sounds like you have a side stand safety switch going off or some other kind of electrical/efi issue. Unless the engine was smoking, leaking or giving birth but I assume you'd have said so. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 05:37
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I try to get it as upright as I can to check the oil, yeah. (No rear stand, but it's close enough to level for government work I think. EFI issues on a 1 year old bike would be tragic, especially since finding someone who can actually diagnose them correctly is very hard.
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Feb 17, 2019 05:50
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Have you got a GoPro or a multimeter?
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Feb 17, 2019 05:55
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Slavvy posted:Have you got a GoPro or a multimeter? I have a multimeter and a I have a Sena prism tube for camera purposes. I get the multimeter, but how would a camera help?
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Feb 17, 2019 07:03
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Camera's just to get a video of the symptoms for us on the internet. First step is to reproduce the problem and get a better idea of what's actually happening. The information you have doesn't narrow it down much, so you need more data. Is it losing spark, losing fuel, both, or is it a power issue causing parts of the bike like the ECU to switch off entirely? Out of spark, fuel and air, spark is the easiest to check for on efi bikes and most often problematic so it's worth starting there. Ideally, you'd want to be able to make it play up on cue, and do so with it disassembled enough that you can access a plug and check for spark.
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Feb 17, 2019 08:35
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Mirconium posted:How far above the max line does oil have to get before the crankshaft starts frothing it? Could it be the ubiquitous small-Honda fuel pump problem? When it was turning over without starting could you smell petrol?
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Feb 17, 2019 10:42
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Dear goons, I never thought it would happen to me... The bloody oil filter's stuck. I started with one of those cap tools you stick a square drive socket wrench in, but it's just sliding around. Strap wrench? Don't have one. Big screwdriver? Don't have one. I did make a go of the screwdriver thing with a 6" woodscrew I had lying around, but now it's in I can't actually get a handle on it with anything. What I'm here to ask you all is, what tool do I go buy tomorrow morning to make this thing go away? I'm assuming probably a strap wrench, but specific recommendations of what to look for/avoid would be nice. Incidental list of other things I don't have but probably should: channel lock pliers, a breaker bar, a bigass screwdriver. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 17:47
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Can you wedge anything into the cap tool to make it grip better? Did you try with the engine very warm? If so try cool. Did you try with the engine cool? If so try very warm. Otherwise just  tomorrow. You can also get chain wrenches which will make short work of any oil filter. Never used one myself, I assume it grips better but perhaps it might rip up the filter like the screwdriver method can?
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Feb 17, 2019 17:54
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I use a filter wrench that’s offset a little plus has three different diameters with a channel lock style mechanism and I’ve never been foiled since I bought it.
HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 17:56
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That looks perfect, thanks! Seems like screwfix stock something similar, so I'll probably go for that. I'll see if I can get a strappy too just in case it won't fit, since the clearance is pretty small (maybe 3mm round the top of the filter). e/ actually it looks like machine mart has the exact one you posted, and a bigger range of other stuff too. Guess I'll go there then. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 18:06
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