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Ha, our new (to us) LS460 is making a slight knocking noise at idle, come to find out they tend to have piston slap issues. It's harmless and just a little annoying when the radio is off and it's dead silent. We're not gonna do anything about it, but apparently lots of Lexus owners freaked out over it and Lexus changed out the pistons for them to fix the issue. As long as it's not hurting anything I don't think it's worth fixing unless it's covered under warranty, which this car is not. It's the wife's car and she doesn't care either 
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Feb 18, 2019 17:05
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meatpimp posted:Point 1 -- I found a great PDR guy. He mowed through a couple door dings and a dent on the hood on the Escalade, light hail on the hood and a few door dings on the Juke, and medium hail and a few door dings on the BMW for $300. That's fantastic. I like the cars better when they don't look like golf balls. Plus, he did a ding on my mom's Beetle for $20 since he was already there and set up, all in my garage. He lives only about 10 minutes from me, so I'll definitely be keeping his card. Hahaha, we talked about that lifter tick last month. At least it didn't require disassembling something?
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Feb 18, 2019 17:12
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From my experience BMWs love italian tune-ups.
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Feb 18, 2019 17:28
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meatpimp posted:Point 2 -- Those loving Germans. I've been chasing a tapping coming from the head area of the BMW for a while. It comes and goes, predominantly when it's cold. No real rhyme or reason to it, it can be dead silent on startup, then start knocking. It can start knocking and stop shortly after startup, it can just keep knocking and knocking and knocking. this screams of the hla design on the mazda b motors where oil can't drain out of the lifter, or the sewing machine e36s Applebees Appetizer posted:Ha, our new (to us) LS460 is making a slight knocking noise at idle, come to find out they tend to have piston slap issues. It's harmless and just a little annoying when the radio is off and it's dead silent. We're not gonna do anything about it, but apparently lots of Lexus owners freaked out over it and Lexus changed out the pistons for them to fix the issue. drat, upgraded from the 430 already?
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Feb 18, 2019 17:44
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Phone posted:drat, upgraded from the 430 already? Yeah wanna buy it? The 460 is a much better car all around besides the piston slap. But the 430 had the infamous Toyota power steering pump whine so I guess we just traded one noise for another.
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Feb 18, 2019 17:58
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what year 460? i've been idly looking at boats as of late. mercedes e350, bmw 535, lexus ls460s...
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Feb 18, 2019 18:30
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Hey GMT800 guys -- is the 4L60E ridiculously sensitive to fluid level? A couple days ago I noticed the Escalade flaring about 300rpm when shifting between 2nd and 3rd at part and/or somewhat aggressive throttle. I thought worst-case and started looking at transmission prices, but I just took it out, got it warmed up and checked the fluid level and it was right at the low level. I put some fluid in to take it just above the high level and drove it for another 20 minutes. All signs of flaring are gone, shifting normally. Should I still be looking at selling the loving thing, or could that have been the cause of the flaring?
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Feb 18, 2019 20:51
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EVERYWHERE 
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Applebees Appetizer posted:The 460 is a much better car all around besides the piston slap. But the 430 had the infamous Toyota power steering pump whine so I guess we just traded one noise for another. Tell me about this. The PS pump in mom's Avalon got really noisy over the course of a couple of months. Initially while cold, now it sounds like an old Ford going down the road.
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Feb 18, 2019 21:06
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meatpimp posted:Hey GMT800 guys -- is the 4L60E ridiculously sensitive to fluid level? A couple days ago I noticed the Escalade flaring about 300rpm when shifting between 2nd and 3rd at part and/or somewhat aggressive throttle. I thought worst-case and started looking at transmission prices, but I just took it out, got it warmed up and checked the fluid level and it was right at the low level. I put some fluid in to take it just above the high level and drove it for another 20 minutes. I'll check with my dad, but his suburban seemed to be fine, fine, transmission noise, broken, and he had a 4L60E.
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Feb 18, 2019 21:13
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Phone posted:what year 460? It's a 2011. 20k miles and we paid $25k for it, and it's like a brand new car, still has the new car smell. It's amazing how much Luxobarges depreciate the first few years, pretty sure this car was around $70k new and there's not much difference how it is now and when it rolled off the lot new. I'd be hesitant to buy a BMW or Merc of that year but you pretty much don't have to worry about a Lexus. Register with Lexusdrivers.com and you can enter any VIN to see the service history, almost all the higher end Lexus cars are serviced by the dealerships so you can get a full report before deciding to buy. Just in case you might be interested, here's a link to the 430, there would be an AI goon discount of course. https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/cto/d/saint-petersburg-2003-lexus-ls-430/6813144968.html STR posted:Tell me about this. The PS pump in mom's Avalon got really noisy over the course of a couple of months. Initially while cold, now it sounds like an old Ford going down the road. It's just a common annoying quirk, just like the Ford pumps basically (our Crown Vic did the same thing), Toyota's PS pumps are known to get noisy but AFAIK it's not a sign of anything going wrong. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 22:36
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meatpimp posted:Hey GMT800 guys -- is the 4L60E ridiculously sensitive to fluid level? A couple days ago I noticed the Escalade flaring about 300rpm when shifting between 2nd and 3rd at part and/or somewhat aggressive throttle. I thought worst-case and started looking at transmission prices, but I just took it out, got it warmed up and checked the fluid level and it was right at the low level. I put some fluid in to take it just above the high level and drove it for another 20 minutes. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1584081-stupid-4l60e-2-3-flare-shift-here-we-go-again-video-added-2.html#post17507844 I've found several instances where people have seen 2-3 shift flare where adding a bit more fluid fixed the problem. I was definitely at the low mark and I'm just over the high mark now, so I think I'm where I need to be. We'll see tomorrow when I take it out cold again. And Lexus LS cars are the best cars. Edit: And the Avalon is still sitting in the driveway with a massive brake fluid leak coming from somewhere. It hasn't been warm enough for me to feel like even bringing it into the garage to diagnose.
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Feb 18, 2019 22:51
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Yeah, the 4L60E is super sensitive to fluid levels. Of course this begs the question of "why" in regards to it being low.
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Feb 18, 2019 23:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, the 4L60E is super sensitive to fluid levels. I did a drop-pan fluid change when I got it almost 3 years ago. I don't doubt that I was putting the level between the marks. With the cold weather, I don't doubt that I just had it borderline for a while and it's been thresholding for a while... maybe... I don't know, we'll see. I'll take it out cold tomorrow and see how it looks...
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Feb 19, 2019 00:09
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Applebees Appetizer posted:It's just a common annoying quirk, just like the Ford pumps basically (our Crown Vic did the same thing), Toyota's PS pumps are known to get noisy but AFAIK it's not a sign of anything going wrong. Good to know. It has mom both freaked out and embarrassed, apparently it's reached beater F-150 levels of sound pretty quickly. I've just been telling her to run it until the steering feels stiffer, or donate it to her son so he can stop pouring money into a beat up Saturn. Apparently it's already feeling a little off when cold, but once it warms up it's fine. It's a ~170k Toyota with a 1MZ-FE and the 4 speed Aisin automatic (and it's seen regular fluid changes), it really should run forever so long as she keeps an eye on the oil (it's starting to smoke a bit on cold starts).
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Feb 19, 2019 07:11
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Took the Escalade out this morning and it's shifting as well or better than it ever has. My current thought is that I had it slightly underfilled when I changed it a couple years ago, but it never showed because I never drove it in cold weather. This winter, with the Avalon down for brake issues, I've been driving the Escalade. Hopefully that's it. We'll see. 
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Feb 19, 2019 13:49
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So jumping back a bit to xdelete chat - my buddy w/ the 328 tried it out, but it spit out a not compatible error I guess because he's not up to date on the programming. Is it really THAT common for updating DME programming to cause issues that the bimmer dealer themselves are reluctant to update a car and it to take 3hrs labor otherwise?!?! what?!?!
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Feb 21, 2019 22:48
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Beverly Cleavage posted:So jumping back a bit to xdelete chat - my buddy w/ the 328 tried it out, but it spit out a not compatible error I guess because he's not up to date on the programming. Is it really THAT common for updating DME programming to cause issues that the bimmer dealer themselves are reluctant to update a car and it to take 3hrs labor otherwise?!?! what?!?! Keep in mind that I blew a 30A fuse and have been chasing electrical problems since flashing the DME. Just a thought... But the BMW is the reliable car at the moment. The transmission in the Escalade has been perfect -- every single shift has been clicked off exactly as it should since I topped off the fluid. That's great! However, I've developed a parasitic power drain that is killing the battery from fully charged to not-enough-juice-to-unlock-the-doors overnight. I am suspecting something with the HVAC, since I smelled a bit of burning a couple weeks back, but man, what a pain in the rear end. It's cold here, so I'm charging my FLIR to hopefully see a warm circuit, but if not, I'll have to do some digging. Hopefully it's something with the stupid radio so I have an excuse to replace it. Edit: No temperature in the fuse box on the driver's side of the dash. No temperature on any of the relays or fuses in the main fuse box under the hood, but the lugs showed warm, so there's power going through there to somewhere... Edit2: I just stuck a meter on it and it's showing a 3 amp power draw with key off. So obviously something's fucky. Edit3: That was easy. Started pulling fuses and pulling the radio fuse takes the current draw from 3 amps to 2mA. Think I'm on to something?  Edit X: Maybe not so easy. I was looking through some failure modes and saw that a GM head unit can get stuck "ejecting" a dvd and continue to draw power. So, I plugged the radio fuse back in and it went back to drawing 3 amps. Ejected the dvd and continued to draw 3 amps. I pulled the radio fuse again and here's the behavior -- Immediately drops to 2 amp draw, then hangs at 2 amps for about 20 seconds, then drops to milliamps. I'm thinking there's probably something involved with an amp that's still powered up? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Feb 27, 2019 |
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Feb 27, 2019 13:46
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Or maybe an antenna? Do you have nav?
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Feb 27, 2019 22:45
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Big Taint posted:Or maybe an antenna? Do you have nav? Got antenna, XM and Nav. I think what I'm seeing is the head unit (or something plugged into the head unit) staying on and keeping the amp energized. When I pull the fuse, the head unit shuts off, dropping the parasitic drain by 1 amp, then 20 seconds later, the amp powers down. The nav is dvd-based and the drive is a pain in the rear end (only reads the disc 4 out of 5 times, and when it doesn't read once, it takes 2-5 reinsertions to work again). With that, I'm thinking of just replacing the head unit. But that requires modules for bose, and the stupid GM turn signal box, and the steering wheel controls... I have the most ridiculously overcomplicated stupid cars.
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Feb 28, 2019 00:04
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My avalanche had that. Its not that bad to do. vOv
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Feb 28, 2019 04:31
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Cadillac is dead this morning. gently caress. 10.5v this morning when last night it was 13.1v. I'm charging it back up now and I'll let the battery sit disconnected to see if I smoked the battery through all of this and it's self-discharging. If not that, than I don't know what the gently caress. I have the radio fuse pulled. It shows a 3 amp draw when it's plugged in and millivolts when it's not. What else could it be? This is getting annoying. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Feb 28, 2019 |
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Feb 28, 2019 13:44
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How bad do you want to keep OnStar? And what year is this thing again? The modules to keep the beeps/boops/bloops/chimes and steering wheel controls aren't THAT much (cheap enough that Crutchfield includes them either for free or at a pretty reasonable price). The OnStar module costs a small fortune, but if yours is the older VZW CDMA OnStar, you're SOL on OnStar after the end of the year anyway (VZW is shutting down their 3G CDMA network). The factory XM antenna and receiver (separate from the head unit) aren't really compatible with any aftermarket stuff, though I'm sure you could figure out a way for the antenna to work. The non-OnStar modules will plug right in to an OnStar-equipped vehicle fine, you might get a body code if you have a fancypants scanner. I'd guess the head unit isn't getting the signal to power down completely, or isn't passing it to the amps (or thinks it's ejecting). It's low speed GM LAN or CAN BUS based; there's usually not a switched +12V on those. 3A is about what it should pull when fully powered on. FWIW, the aftermarket harnesses... you should be able to find one that doesn't include OnStar, but includes everything else. Should knock a good chunk off. All of the OnStar systems that aren't AT&T LTE based will be dead by the end of this year anyway, and IIRC, yours is the era that's Verizon 3G CDMA based (if it's not AMPS). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Feb 28, 2019 |
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Feb 28, 2019 14:57
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Why didn't anyone say "Hey dummy, check the first things first!" Just took the battery off the charger and it was at 12.96v. 40 minutes later and the battery (disconnected from the car entirely) is at 12.06v. Looks like a trip to Interstate is likely tomorrow. The reason I didn't even test the battery is that I just got it less than 2 years ago, sticker on it is 6/2017. 
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Feb 28, 2019 20:33
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meatpimp posted:Just took the battery off the charger and it was at 12.96v. If it ain't breaking 13v after ten or so minutes on the charger, no need to wait 40 minutes more to know it's deader than poo poo anyway...
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Feb 28, 2019 20:38
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meatpimp posted:Why didn't anyone say "Hey dummy, check the first things first!" You're a BMW owner and at the first indication of electrical fuckery you didn't look straight at the battery? For shame. JK, troubleshooting phantom draws in anything is a bitch.
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Feb 28, 2019 20:52
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meatpimp posted:Why didn't anyone say "Hey dummy, check the first things first!" Wow. My Majesta threw me for a loop because it would take a jump and run for just a bit and die. Of course everyone, including me, thought it was alternator or electrical. Thought my battery charger had gone bad because it wouldn't even blink on that battery. Took it in to be tested dead AF new battery instantly solved everything.
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Feb 28, 2019 20:55
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meatpimp posted:Cadillac is dead this morning. gently caress. I read this and my first thought was genuinely “GM killed the brand? Guess that was coming.”
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Feb 28, 2019 21:04
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Dadliest Worrier posted:I read this and my first thought was genuinely “GM killed the brand? Guess that was coming.” Oh they've killed it it just hasn't been buried yet.
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Feb 28, 2019 21:05
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everdave posted:Took it in to be tested dead AF new battery instantly solved everything. Yup. Let the battery sit overnight and it was down to 10.9v this morning. Took it in to Interstate, they checked the cells and said one had dropped straight out. I told them I wanted the MTP instead of the MT this time, since the MTP was out of stock when I got this one in June of 17. The guy went to the back, came out with a fresh and charged MTP 78 and said "we're all set, don't need any paperwork or anything." I was in and out within 3 minutes. The new battery was at 12.9V and the truck fired up immediately and everything feels good. Sometimes you get lucky. I was planning on some weird electrical issue, because I own a BMW. But no, it's a GMT800 and just needed a battery.
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Mar 1, 2019 17:29
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Nice
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Mar 1, 2019 18:13
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TIL that an Escalade takes the same battery as my Saturn. Which is trunk mounted and uses vent tubes (and I see the vent tube ports on there).
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Mar 2, 2019 07:50
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STR posted:TIL that an Escalade takes the same battery as my Saturn. Your saturn likely has a group 75, most trucks take a 78, hummer h2s (iirc) take a 79! Side terminals ahoy! 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 03:34
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You would be correct if mine was an 03-05. 06-07 Ions took a 78. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 06:37
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Sounds like GM: 6 million possible option code combinations per model, every car we build uses same battery (dual battery available on some models).
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Mar 3, 2019 16:00
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Ok, so gm finally ran out of group 75s. I'm still mostly right. 
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Mar 3, 2019 17:38
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Elmnt80 posted:Your saturn likely has a group 75, most trucks take a 78, hummer h2s (iirc) take a 79! Side terminals ahoy! Dude are you seriously trying to school STR on Saturns?
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Mar 3, 2019 23:10
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I was not able to win in a battle of the gm shitbox 'tism, it is true.
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Mar 3, 2019 23:36
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Oh, you two. Good news/bad news with the Escalade. Starts and runs great with the new battery. 2-3 flare is back and more pronounced. I don't know enough about auto transmissions, and the 4l60e in particular, to really know what to do. Seems like there are some fixes, but I don't want to just throw parts at it. I don't have the time or inclination for that nonsense. 
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Mar 4, 2019 00:06
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Just got back from Steve the transmission guy's shop. I showed him what it was doing and he told me the exact thing that I thought it was going to be -- 3-4 clutch pack gone showing as a 2-3 flare. So, now the question is what do I do? Steve seems to have a pretty good shop and is knowledgeable and quoted me +/- $2k with a 1 year warranty. Any reason to cross-shop?
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Mar 4, 2019 18:50
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Not if you trust the guy and he does good work. But you know exactly what needs to be done, so you could call around and see what other shops charge for the job just to get an idea of the price range. But as you know cheaper doesn't always equal better.
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Mar 4, 2019 18:55
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