|
Crosspost from the Gundam thread.quote:Not technically a Gundam but pretty close. Kotobukiya Frame Arms.
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 03:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 11:52 |
|
|
Finished Sanguinius. They ran out of display bases at LVO so I'm still waiting on one to get mailed from nottingham.   
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 04:43
|
|
|
I still need to add noln oil for the shade, but I am happy with how it looks so far. My hands are not steady enough for some of the more finer details and I don't know about decals.  
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 07:07
|
|
|
How can I add some depth to this? Specifically the darkest boards. I'm going to hit the nails with a dark silver then wash it with either a second coat of Seraphim Sepia or this Vallejo oiled earth (it's supposed to be a workshop floor). 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 08:33
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:How can I add some depth to this? Specifically the darkest boards. I'm going to hit the nails with a dark silver then wash it with either a second coat of Seraphim Sepia or this Vallejo oiled earth (it's supposed to be a workshop floor). Do you really want more depth? It looks really good by itself, but I think it might be too busy with a model on it. I would actually use a wash or filter to mute the colors and reduce contrast so as to avoid distracting from the model you're putting on it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 08:49
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:I still need to add noln oil for the shade, but I am happy with how it looks so far. My hands are not steady enough for some of the more finer details and I don't know about decals. My hands are really shaky, but I do OK by bracing both elbows and leaning my brush hand against the hand holding whatever I'm painting. Also edge highlighting something as angular as this is super easy using the side of the brush which means a steady hand is much less important. Cat Face Joe posted:How can I add some depth to this? Specifically the darkest boards. I'm going to hit the nails with a dark silver then wash it with either a second coat of Seraphim Sepia or this Vallejo oiled earth (it's supposed to be a workshop floor). Woodgrain can be simulated with brushstrokes, paint it with something a bit slow drying, and once it has set a bit go over it with a brush.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 09:59
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:I still need to add noln oil for the shade, but I am happy with how it looks so far. My hands are not steady enough for some of the more finer details and I don't know about decals. I've got another Redemptor to do (once I get the second sprue from next weeks issue of Conquest). I need to ask though, did you prime the plastic before painting it, as it looks earliy like the default blue plastic of the Easy to Build one, and the marks where the pieces were clipped from the sprue look like the bare plastic, in which case you might want to be careful moving it too much as the paint won't adhere very well without flaking off.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 20:44
|
|
|
richyp posted:I've got another Redemptor to do (once I get the second sprue from next weeks issue of Conquest). I need to ask though, did you prime the plastic before painting it, as it looks earliy like the default blue plastic of the Easy to Build one, and the marks where the pieces were clipped from the sprue look like the bare plastic, in which case you might want to be careful moving it too much as the paint won't adhere very well without flaking off. This is the easy to build one that already comes in blue. I did not prime it. Since I don't intend to actually play WH40K i'm not too worried about paint chipping off. I also added an additional attachment: 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:03
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:This is the easy to build one that already comes in blue. I did not prime it. Since I don't intend to actually play WH40K i'm not too worried about paint chipping off. I'm pretty confused. You don't want to play the game but also don't want to do the full hobby? You just want space marines on your shelf? You are like some sort of weird unicorn. You do you I guess, but I don't know what you're going to get from us in the painting thread.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:09
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:I'm pretty confused. You don't want to play the game but also don't want to do the full hobby? Plenty of people only paint the figures though? I don't think I understand your question. I've been painting stuff from Age of Sigmar and Warmachine as well, and did Doom Guards recently. Going to be doing some Orks this week when I have time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:13
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:Do you really want more depth? It looks really good by itself, but I think it might be too busy with a model on it. Thanks. I was thinking that but the base is 2 1/2 inches and here's the model that's going on it.  So I was torn cause the base is big so I wanted it to stand out but the model is bigger so no one is gonna see the base. I think I'll just do the aforementioned nails and second wash. zokie posted:Woodgrain can be simulated with brushstrokes, paint it with something a bit slow drying, and once it has set a bit go over it with a brush. This sounds good. I'll test this out independently for future work. Thanks. Cat Face Joe fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Feb 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:32
|
|
|
zokie posted:My hands are really shaky, but I do OK by bracing both elbows and leaning my brush hand against the hand holding whatever I'm painting. Also edge highlighting something as angular as this is super easy using the side of the brush which means a steady hand is much less important. Also making sure you are well hydrated, have had a decent meal and haven't had too much caffeine can help cut down on shaky hands. Also, taking a breath and just going slower can help a lot. I said come in! posted:Here is my latest work, although i'm not that happy with it. I have a difficult time with small details, my hands are not that steady. Friendly Fire fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Feb 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:38
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:Plenty of people only paint the figures though? I don't think I understand your question. I've been painting stuff from Age of Sigmar and Warmachine as well, and did Doom Guards recently. Going to be doing some Orks this week when I have time. Yeah but they usually paint the whole model, starting with primer. And generally you're coming in to the miniatures thread asking for critical feedback and asking how to do better on the next thing. There is a number of reasons not to use the bare plastic as the primary color for the model including: * Your wash may not do what you expect on the bare plastic * You may chip the paint off one part of the model just trying to paint the rest of the model * You can see the sprue clip marks white on the model * The texture looks very different from the rest of the model * In addition to having a harder time shading the model, you will have a harder time highlighting the model, both for the texture reason and for just pure ability to shade/match/blend/etc. * Most of us solve the issue of 'not having steady hands' by the ability to go back and use paint to fix mistakes when we bleed onto another part of the model. Hard to do if you are trying to match to plastic texture and color when you miss. Everyone has different levels of effort they are OK putting into models and thats OK, I'm just saying it is unusual not to prime/basecoat a whole model. There is even ultramarine blue spray sold by GW you can use. For what it's worth, your blocking in does look nice and clean, I don't see any reason you couldn't paint more detailed work. I usually bleed over onto the base color somewhere when I block in silver/gold etc like you have already. Your hands are probably steadier than you think, especially if you are bracing your wrists. Most of us do not have surgeon level steady hands, just patience.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:44
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:Yeah but they usually paint the whole model, starting with primer. And generally you're coming in to the miniatures thread asking for critical feedback and asking how to do better on the next thing. Okay, I understand what you meant now. I'm sorry. I legitimately did not know/understand that in the case of this model that it mattered. I thought the whole reason that GWS had this model come in blue already was so you didn't have to prime it. I just started with this hobby. Friendly Fire posted:I've painted a ton of Cygnar warjacks and the deep panel lines in the model really take inks and/or washes really well to create instant depth on the blue and brassy areas. I go another step and run a line of ink along all the panel lines and seams but real shaky hands would make that somewhat difficult. Also, little dabs of an ink or wash under the giant bolts, and inside the indented circles on the arms help create instant shadows and they don't even have to be very neat to look good. Thank you for the feedback, I am going to go back and do this.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:47
|
|
|
Lol at assuming we have any patience either.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:49
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:Okay, I understand what you meant now. I'm sorry. I legitimately did not know/understand that in the case of this model that it mattered. I thought the whole reason that GWS had this model come in blue already was so you didn't have to prime it. I just started with this hobby. The reason they have their easy build models in colored plastic is for people the opposite of you who just want to play games and don't care about painting, so having them come in a color lets them get straight to that and still be able to tell armies apart.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:50
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:Okay, I understand what you meant now. I'm sorry. I legitimately did not know/understand that in the case of this model that it mattered. I thought the whole reason that GWS had this model come in blue already was so you didn't have to prime it. I just started with this hobby. The EtB stuff and the plastics in the starter sets (the cheaper ones anyway) are coloured so you can assemble and play right away, and have the opposing factions in opposite colours (UM Blue vs DG Green etc..), but if you want to paint them, definitely prime them first, if not for the risk of chipping but for the reasons Olloth just posted (colour matching for tidying up mistakes in particular). Efb to the EtB
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:50
|
|
|
Booley posted:The reason they have their easy build models in colored plastic is for people the opposite of you who just want to play games and don't care about painting, so having them come in a color lets them get straight to that and still be able to tell armies apart. This is the one I should have gotten instead then https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Space-Marines-Primaris-Redemptor-Dreadnought Thank you for the feedback, I didn't know this at all, and as far as I can tell, GWS doesn't make it obvious to beginners.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:51
|
|
|
Get yourself some sprue clippers as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 21:54
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:This is the one I should have gotten instead then https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Space-Marines-Primaris-Redemptor-Dreadnought Well, which one you get doesn't really matter. That one has a few more options and posability, but is also more expensive. Either way, whether the plastic starts as blue or grey it works better if you prime before painting. I think you'll also find that since primer has a little more tooth than bare plastic it becomes easier to control where paint goes as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 22:00
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:This is the one I should have gotten instead then https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Space-Marines-Primaris-Redemptor-Dreadnought Yeah sorry I was abrasive, really easy to build models are also fine-you didn't buy the wrong one (especially because the main drawback to them is they don't come with all the weapon options which you don't care about) It's just the stuff I listed is why we tend to paint the whole thing, even if it's precolored. Keep on painting friend! Like I said you already color inside the lines at least as well as I do. Have you checked out Warhammer TV on YouTube? They walk through a lot of the basics for getting your models built and painted and then have more in depth ones for specific models and color schemes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 22:04
|
|
|
Booley posted:The reason they have their easy build models in colored plastic is for people the opposite of you who just want to play games and don't care about painting, so having them come in a color lets them get straight to that and still be able to tell armies apart. I have wondered why GW did some stuff in colored plastic and this answer never occurred to me and I feel very dumb right now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 22:04
|
|
|
If you want to collect and paint little mans more than you want to play, let me tell you about a little thing called Historicals. The dudes are cheaper and you can read real life accounts to get excited. Like I did yesterday when I read about a USSR tank commander whose life was saved by getting hit by a hand grenade in the head knocking him out, which meant he survived the blast by dropping into the tank. And saving his crew because the grenade didn't fall into the fighting compartment.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 22:08
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:Yeah sorry I was abrasive, really easy to build models are also fine-you didn't buy the wrong one (especially because the main drawback to them is they don't come with all the weapon options which you don't care about) I have! I am following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCybi5r71RE&t=894s but am at a pause to get some of the paints they recommend. So I am coming back to this Redemptor.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 22:11
|
|
|
I finished my third guy! This is Human Cleric:  loving nightmare trying to get his front to photograph properly.   So! Eyes are really goddamn hard. I'm very proud of how his belt and pouches came out. Now that I knew what to expect when ink-washing a D&D mini I think it came out terrific; in particular, on his cloak, all that neat detail work is 100% the ink wash making me look way more talented than I am. His scarf and part of whatever that cloak is peeking out from under his shirt and mail are purple, which I haven't used before and wasn't expecting it to be as glossy as it was (the varnish took it down somewhat, actually). Since I varnished him his face has been bugging the poo poo out of me, but every time I look at it all the details look fine. I think it brought out some combination of shape and color different from what I was used to from when I was working on the face and it's one of those things that's going to bug me and nobody else.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2019 23:15
|
|
|
The next project I am starting on is Killa Kans and I want to paint a rust effect on their armor, I was wondering if someone might have a good tutorial? I found this one https://creativetwilight.com/rust-effect/ and was wondering on thoughts, if this would be a good guide? I am painting three of these (they only come in a set of three), and the plan in my head is to do something like this https://imgur.com/a/HJovp but one will be yellow, another will be red, and the other will be green. For any melee weapons I want to add blood to them and thought about using Blood for the Blood God https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Technical-Blood-For-The-Blood-God Warhammer TV has a nice quick tutorial on how to do this.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2019 17:01
|
|
|
I've been thinking about picking up chipping medium when I eventually get to painting up my crashed Aquila from the Macragge box. YouTube some of those tutorials, seems like a great option for rusty metal
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2019 18:58
|
|
|
Anyone got any tips for getting sand to stick to bases properly with PVA? I've done a couple recently where I've used straight PVA to stick sand to the base, left it to dry and then covered it with a layer of watered down PVA as a seal, but in both cases the PVA/sand mixture has started to flake off of the base at the edges a couple of days after painting. At the moment I'm guessing that the first PVA layer isn't thick enough, or that the sealing layer is weakening the initial bond, as it's water based? Or perhaps I need something stronger like wood glue?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 00:40
|
|
|
chanza posted:Anyone got any tips for getting sand to stick to bases properly with PVA? I've done a couple recently where I've used straight PVA to stick sand to the base, left it to dry and then covered it with a layer of watered down PVA as a seal, but in both cases the PVA/sand mixture has started to flake off of the base at the edges a couple of days after painting. I've never put more pva on top of the sand to seal it... I'd wager that is the issue, it is pulling the initial bond apart when it retracts as it dries. Try a few without the sealing step and see what happens. Another possibility depending on the base/miniature is there is mould release agent on the base causing the pva to fall off, so if its still not sticking try washing the bases in cool soapy water first.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 00:59
|
|
|
Personally, I just make a mix of sand, PVA, craft paint, and a little bit of water. Mix them together in a container with a resealable top of some sort, like a tiny peanut butter jar, so you can use it again. If it starts to dry out, you can add a bit of water back to the mix and it'll be fine. The ratio is something like 3:1:1 sand:PVA:paint, with a drop or two of water. I usually just eyeball it until I get the right kind of paste-like consistency and slap it on. The bonus of using craft paint is that it's cheap, easy to find, and will tint the sand to whatever color you need it to be. Saves time on painting, and it dries rock-hard so it won't fall off the base.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 03:15
|
|
|
IPA Regulations posted:I've never put more pva on top of the sand to seal it... I'd wager that is the issue, it is pulling the initial bond apart when it retracts as it dries. That's probably not the issue, since applying watered down PVA to the top of sand (well, ballast) is basically the standard procedure in model railroading.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 04:09
|
|
|
chanza posted:Anyone got any tips for getting sand to stick to bases properly with PVA? I've done a couple recently where I've used straight PVA to stick sand to the base, left it to dry and then covered it with a layer of watered down PVA as a seal, but in both cases the PVA/sand mixture has started to flake off of the base at the edges a couple of days after painting. I used to do bases exactly like this, here are some tips: - Score the base with your hobby knife, just run the tip across the top in a cross pattern a few times, that will give the glue something extra to grip to. - Do not thin the first layer of glue, lay it on thick. - Wait for the first layer of glue to completely dry before painting. - Wait for the paint to completely dry before sealing. - Thin your sealant glue with water, 50/50 water PVA is a good mix. - Lay on plenty of sealant
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 04:23
|
|
|
Any advice on using testors dullcote? I picked up a can to use on some finished models, but I don’t want to gently caress it up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 04:44
|
|
|
I am very happy with how my first Ork is turning out, but am open to suggestions. What shade would I want to use and where should I use it? For the saw, I still need to add blood to it, hopefully I can get that paint this weekend.   
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 05:25
|
|
|
Here's something I thought you guys might like; 25 years of painting progress. From left to right; 1994, 1998, 2002, 2008, 2018
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 06:58
|
|
|
Thanks for the PVA tips everyone. I'll try applying the seal layer after a layer of primer and see if that helps. I like the idea of essentially making my own textured paints, but I definitely want to get these problems under control before mixing up a batch. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Here's something I thought you guys might like; 25 years of painting progress. This is incredibly inspirational.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 09:59
|
|
|
How would I go about painting a SM pauldron light orange, similar to:
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 11:21
|
|
|
What do you guys use to protect the paint on your models? I have a really old can of GW's purity seal that I used on my maulerfiend but it's a little too glossy. (I'm in the UK)
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 11:28
|
|
|
I just use generic matt spray varnish, it works fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 11:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 11:52 |
|
|
Professor Shark posted:How would I go about painting a SM pauldron light orange, similar to: Prime white, basecoat Fire Dragon Bright. If you need to prime a different colour basecoat Jokero Orange and layer up to FD. Check out the citadel paint app for basic questions like this, it's really good for 'what paints do I buy'.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2019 11:38
|
|
