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Mons Hubris posted:I, for one, appreciate the videos and beta chat ITT
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Feb 21, 2019 04:29
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Where are the best spots to fit shoes in person? REI blows, and I want to avoid amazon Let's say northwest U.S.
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Feb 21, 2019 04:36
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Ubiquitus posted:Where are the best spots to fit shoes in person? Why does REI blow? Sure everything is MSRP, but you can buy the shoes, try them at the gym/outdoors, decide you don't like them, and then return them if they don't work, or if you find a better deal... Otherwise your best cheaper option is doing the same but on Moosejaw/Backcountry, but risk them not having your size, unless your local gym also sells shoes.
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Feb 21, 2019 05:29
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Problem with REI is they only carry mainstream brands and models.
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Feb 21, 2019 06:03
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enraged_camel posted:Aside from gym problems that expect/require dynos, I prefer climbing statically whenever possible. It forces me to think through a problem as carefully as possible and use good technique, which in turn minimizes energy usage, at least for me. There have been many problems where I originally tried certain moves dynamically and got exhausted, and then realized I could utilize a clever heel/toe hook somewhere and convert an otherwise "expensive" dynamic move into a very simple and easy static move. My point is that this line of thinking (static = better technique and more efficient) is incorrect in many instances, not that there are never times that you want to move statically. Climbing with good technique requires being able to use both static and dynamic movements per the demands of the route, and if you only focus on doing one style well then you’re setting yourself up for a weakness.
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Feb 21, 2019 06:23
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Ubiquitus posted:Where are the best spots to fit shoes in person? your local outdoor/climbing store, without knowing exactly where you live its hard to give recommendations.
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Feb 21, 2019 06:46
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Suicide Watch posted:Why does REI blow? Sure everything is MSRP, but you can buy the shoes, try them at the gym/outdoors, decide you don't like them, and then return them if they don't work, or if you find a better deal... REI pretty much only carries a few played out sportivas now. Their stock is awful.
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Feb 21, 2019 16:18
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:your local outdoor/climbing store, without knowing exactly where you live its hard to give recommendations. Yeah, same conclusion I came to. How about Portland?
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Feb 21, 2019 16:19
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Comedy answer: MEC E: Next Adventure is good. Or go to the Circuit. tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 16:19
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I know you said you're trying to avoid amazon, and Zappos is owned by amazon, but: Zappos has free two way shipping (or at least they did the last time I did this). You can order several shoes in several sizes, try them all on, and ship back everything (or keep the ones that fit best). Just make sure you do it right after your CC cycle resets so you have time for the return credit. I have settled in on the shoes and sizes that I like, so I haven't done that in years, but it has worked for me in the past.
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Feb 21, 2019 16:30
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Every gym I’ve been to has had some variety of shoes in stock and/or allows outside vendors, etc. I’m assuming you already looked into that angle? Like Tenaya set up a booth yesterday with 5-6 different shoes for people to demo and they were humming all night. Although, the REIs here also stock like at least half a dozen different brands with a range of models for each, so maybe some regional differences.
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Feb 21, 2019 16:32
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Ubiquitus posted:REI pretty much only carries a few played out sportivas now. Their stock is awful. Where do you live? This isn’t the case in CO at all.
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Feb 21, 2019 18:21
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Bud Manstrong posted:Where do you live? This isn’t the case in CO at all. Yeah, the selection is way better at wilderness exchange, bent gate, Neptune, and some gyms but the REI has decent choices.
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Feb 21, 2019 18:30
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Anyone seen/checked out the new Drop Zone pad to compare to the older one? I can't imagine it being WORSE but you never know. Good sale at backcountry right now and I am itching to get on some real rock ASAP.
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Feb 21, 2019 19:48
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:My point is that this line of thinking (static = better technique and more efficient) is incorrect in many instances, not that there are never times that you want to move statically. Climbing with good technique requires being able to use both static and dynamic movements per the demands of the route, and if you only focus on doing one style well then you’re setting yourself up for a weakness. My point is that I disagree with your point. To each their own.
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Feb 21, 2019 19:50
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Also Alex Megos has been showing up to the Englewood CO Earth Treks a bit lately. I watched him lead a 5.13c like it wasn't anything the other day, and now I need to spy on him boulder at the moment. Working from the climbing gym is fun. I need to do this more often.
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Feb 21, 2019 19:56
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ShaneB posted:Also Alex Megos has been showing up to the Englewood CO Earth Treks a bit lately. I watched him lead a 5.13c like it wasn't anything the other day, and now I need to spy on him boulder at the moment. lol, I was like I’m pretty sure I recognize this dude but I can’t put a name to the face, why are people asking for his autograph
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Feb 21, 2019 20:03
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Ubiquitus posted:Yeah, same conclusion I came to. How about Portland? Next Adventure, Mountain Shop, US Outdoor Store are my go-tos, in that order which is mostly based on proximity to my house. OMC used to be good but I don't know what their in store presence is like these days, they shifted to online retail focus a while ago. Climb Max similar story, haven't been to their new shop but used to be a small but knowledgeable store. At any of the shops make sure the person you're talking to seems knowledgeable and try to get someone from the climbing gear desk and not the general footwear area, you'll get much better fit advice.
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Feb 21, 2019 20:12
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enraged_camel posted:My point is that I disagree with your point. To each their own. It's not really 'to each their own'. If you don't develop the ability to climb dynamically with good technique, this will be a limitation at some point, as it becomes increasingly rare to find climbs that don't 'require' dynamic movement as you move up through the grades. Exactly when and how much of a limitation it will be may vary from person to person, but my guess is that for most, over-reliance on static climbing would start holding you back around the V4/5.12 level. edit: this is all under the assumption that the climber is working towards a goal of progression. If you're just climbing for fun / don't care about progression then sure, to each their own Sharks Eat Bear fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 22:34
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Exactly when and how much of a limitation it will be may vary from person to person, but my guess is that for most, over-reliance on static climbing would start holding you back around the V4/5.12 level. Even V3s "at my gym" (the mantra of all climbers, right?) very frequently seem to require some kind of dynamic movement. Or at least do for me, as my static movement isn't great with my lack of core/rotational strength.
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Feb 22, 2019 00:34
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what defines static movement anyways? three points of contact at all times?
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Feb 22, 2019 01:57
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I think a practical test is, could you hover your hand or foot over what you’re about to touch for a couple seconds before actually touching it.
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Feb 22, 2019 03:10
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enraged_camel posted:My point is that I disagree with your point. To each their own. this is why I dribble a basketball with my feet. if it feels natural, easy, and is effective, are you even developing real strength??? i think not.
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Feb 22, 2019 04:25
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crazycello posted:this is why I dribble a basketball with my feet. if it feels natural, easy, and is effective, are you even developing real strength??? i think not. Can we not quibble over climbing techniques, good lord.
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Feb 22, 2019 04:41
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I dun grabd a hold. That is what we do right? You do need to be a dynamic climber. Doesn't mean you can't be smooth while you do it.
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Feb 22, 2019 04:56
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Next Adventure, Mountain Shop, US Outdoor Store are my go-tos, in that order which is mostly based on proximity to my house. OMC used to be good but I don't know what their in store presence is like these days, they shifted to online retail focus a while ago. Climb Max similar story, haven't been to their new shop but used to be a small but knowledgeable store. I live in AZ. I was asking for my friend who is in Portland, I'll pass on the spots, thanks for the suggestions. At this point I know what brands/models I like, I can't imagine asking anyone at a store or gym for shoe fittings ever again. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 04:59
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tortilla_chip posted:Comedy answer: MEC Why is MEC a comedy answer?
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Feb 22, 2019 05:01
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Mezzanon posted:Why is MEC a comedy answer? They would have to drive to Canada for starters.
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Feb 22, 2019 05:05
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Slimy Hog posted:Can we not quibble over climbing techniques, good lord. Yeah, please. I was very specific with the way I worded my original post and stated that I climb a certain way and what I do works for me. I understand people are opinionated about this stuff, but man, I don't understand this desire to constantly drag people into arguments even after they express the desire to not argue.
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Feb 22, 2019 05:06
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enraged_camel posted:My point is that I disagree with your point. To each their own. E: i agree that there is certainly more value to be had by climbers that have less experience in focusing on climbing statically. That being said, dynamic but precise movement is a necessity for learning how to become a better overall climber, and should also be trained periodically Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 05:09
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spwrozek posted:They would have to drive to Canada for starters. There’s a MEC two hours from me. Because I live in Canada.
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Feb 22, 2019 05:26
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Mezzanon posted:There’s a MEC two hours from me. Because I live in Canada. Well yeah. Portland Oregon though... 🤔
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Feb 22, 2019 06:33
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I just don’t want people led astray and wasting time due to following bad advice, which happened to me plenty of times when I was getting started. It’s really not a matter of opinion to say that both static and dynamic climbing are important and, in general, both should be cultivated by new climbers (assuming the climber understands the difference between a foot cutting dyno and dynamic movement).
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Feb 22, 2019 06:52
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:I just don’t want people led astray and wasting time due to following bad advice You seem hopelessly confused due. I wasn't giving advice. I specifically talked only about myself. Here, I'll highlight the relevant parts of my post: enraged_camel posted:Aside from gym problems that expect/require dynos,
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Feb 22, 2019 06:57
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enraged_camel posted:You seem hopelessly confused due. I wasn't giving advice. I specifically talked only about myself. The series of quoted posts was all a response to a newbie asking for advice. If it wasn’t your intent to contribute to that conversation or respond to my advice to climb both dynamically and statically, then my bad. But in the spirit of unnecessary online nitpicking, I’ll still point out that your first post assumes that climbing statically forces good technique. That assumption could well be holding you back from becoming a better dynamic, and therefore more overall well rounded, climber :P
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Feb 22, 2019 07:25
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:I just don’t want people led astray and wasting time due to following bad advice, which happened to me plenty of times when I was getting started. It’s really not a matter of opinion to say that both static and dynamic climbing are important and, in general, both should be cultivated by new climbers (assuming the climber understands the difference between a foot cutting dyno and dynamic movement). I like you're posts dude!!! Please don't get chased out of the thread.
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Feb 22, 2019 14:54
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 lotta gettin' worked up over reasonably fair statements itt lmbo sometimes static good sometimes dynamic gooder
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Feb 22, 2019 15:13
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I think the best for new climbers is to keep trying new stuff. Try static (holding hand over hold for 4 seconds before grabbing is great) Try dynamic Try heel hooks everywhere on an overhang Try turning alot on every move and switching feet Try climbing straight on with feet perpendicular to the wall You'll end up learning what you like and what works best for you
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Feb 22, 2019 16:10
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Slimy Hog posted:Can we not quibble over climbing techniques, good lord. Actual content: I am visiting my in-laws in LA and went to my second-ever climbing gym (I've only been climbing since Dec) and the holds were smooth as glass! The gym I go to in Chicago is fairly new and all the holds have a good amount of texture on them, so I had to really adjust the way I was climbing. It was a fun challenge and forced me to put more pressure on my feet and keep my body tension up. All-in-all I had a good time and climbed some fun projects. Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 17:00
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Running With Spoons posted:I think the best for new climbers is to keep trying new stuff. Agreed. I would add that, as you gain more experience as well, you can start to understand the flip side of the coin of 'learning what you like and what works best for you' -- finding the things that you DON'T like and that feel like they don't work best, as these are often indicators of weaknesses or gaps that you can address with practice & training!
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Feb 22, 2019 19:10
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