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Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Minimum Syntaxing posted:

Can I get some guidance on this hobby? Because I've spent dozens of hours researching the switch/board/keycaps I'd want, spent $25 on a switch sampler, and I'm already kind of sick of all this.

The switch I have my eyes on is the 62g Zilent V2, and all I can really do is hope that I'd like a board full of them. But since it's a niche switch, nobody sells boards with it pre-assembled. Also I don't own or know anyone with a soldering iron/pump; and even if I knew how to use them, it seems like a lot of money to get them just to assemble a keyboard.

So with that, I've kinda felt limited to pre-built hotswap boards, though the 1800 layout/KBD 19X pretty much looks ideal to me (even with its pricetag, and having to further dig into the can of worms that is keycap profiles).
So anyway I'm left with:
- The Kira 96 which looks nice and the PCB has holes for switch dongles, so all I have to do is plug the zilents in; but it has misaligned keys, firmware issues, and I fear that the function keys being flush to the numbers would lead to accidental inputs.
...So anyone with experience, is the firmware and function keys really an issue?

- The GMMK which is the cheapest and also hotswap; but to swap I'd have to permanently clip the dongles off of the Zilents to make them fit, and I'm not a huge fan of the floating-key look. ...Then again as far as the dongles are concerned, I'd probably never want a PCB mount keyboard anyway, so maybe clipping is a non issue.


But kinda scratch all this stuff I wrote because in these past 30 days I've been getting some RSI pain in my hands out of the blue, which kinda makes me question whether I should even bother getting a decked-out keyboard if it looks like I can't even use it a whole lot anymore. Maybe I just need to do some stretches and give my hands a rest, pretty frustrating that this happens as I'm looking into treating myself though.

Soldering is piss easy and the least thing that should hold you back. It's also relaxing. Don't breathe in the fumes.

If you like 1800 I heartily recommend the Leopold 980m that I've posted above. I know that there are custom kits where you can put your own switches in, but the 980m has insanely good build quality and caps and feels very good out of the box. Don't have to assemble anything, and it's cheaper than any custom build you can do. I guess you could buy the board and replace the switches and it'd still be cheaper than a custom kit.

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foutre
Sep 4, 2011

:toot: RIP ZEEZ :toot:

net cafe scandal posted:

Would anyone be willing to write a post like this but for 75% keyboards instead? This is such an insane and intimidating yet overall pretty cool world.

EDIT: Actually.. There's no way there's really a meaningful difference between TKL and 75%, is what I'm starting to realize. Don't mind me...

Also look at 65% imo, once you're going TKL you may as well commit! It still has arrow keys and four little page up/down etc. keys in a cluster (or two as the case may be), but is still real fuckin' small. You do lose dedicated function keys, however.

I have and really like the Varmilo VA68M, but it's expensive -- it does take standard keycaps though.
The Leopold FC660M is also great, but has one or two weird size keys.

The Vortex Race 3 is also a solid 75%, fwiw. It's smaller than most TKL's, I think.

Minimum Syntaxing posted:

But kinda scratch all this stuff I wrote because in these past 30 days I've been getting some RSI pain in my hands out of the blue, which kinda makes me question whether I should even bother getting a decked-out keyboard if it looks like I can't even use it a whole lot anymore. Maybe I just need to do some stretches and give my hands a rest, pretty frustrating that this happens as I'm looking into treating myself though.

Tbh this could be an excuse to get a fancy split keyboard for ergonomics.

Minimum Syntaxing
Oct 29, 2008

He looks white, but he's the son of a black man!

G-Prime posted:

Switching from a rubber dome keyboard to one with mechanical switches started to ease that, and moving to heavier switches down the line has seemingly eliminated the problem.
What kind of switches/weight do you use now? Was bottoming out on the rubber domes a contributing factor to your RSI?

mewse posted:

Get a cherry g80-1800 and swap the stems for outemu silent 2.2 from the guy on reddit. Since there's no plate you can use these guys to pop the top off the cherry switches. If you end up loving the keyboard + layout, "the keyboard company" is selling custom pcbs and plates
...Ahhh, I figured that plate-mounted was a straight improvement due to the increased heftiness and durability; I didn't know it interfered with popping open and modifying switches. Assuming this is the guy you're talking about, those stems sound promising given that they're a quarter the price of Zilents, and that they also claim to have no pretravel...
But argh, looks like the only ANSI g80-1800 I see comes with Cherry blacks, whose springs look to be a good deal heavier than the Zilent springs. I might have to buy some different springs in that case, maybe Cherry blues or browns.

Lord Stimperor posted:

Soldering is piss easy and the least thing that should hold you back. It's also relaxing. Don't breathe in the fumes.

If you like 1800 I heartily recommend the Leopold 980m that I've posted above. I know that there are custom kits where you can put your own switches in, but the 980m has insanely good build quality and caps and feels very good out of the box. Don't have to assemble anything, and it's cheaper than any custom build you can do. I guess you could buy the board and replace the switches and it'd still be cheaper than a custom kit.

It's not so much the learning to solder that I'm iffy about, just the initial cost for a more-or-less one time thing. I think the figure I saw for a recommended set cost like $80 bucks, but maybe that person's recommendation was overkill?
And yeah I've been keeping my eye on the FC980M, and definitely like it more than the usual 1800s (function space is massive, too many buttons I don't use). Apparently the plate for it doesn't have extra clearance to open the switches, and there's no way to get clownshoes RGB on it; but oh well. I guess I can get that and see how I'll like a board of browns, before I delve into other switches.
Also I've been thinking that installing some sort of Mill-Max hotswap sockets would be good if I'm indecisive about switches. Got any experience with that?

foutre posted:

Tbh this could be an excuse to get a fancy split keyboard for ergonomics.
Yeah, like this? Which also happens to be hot-swappable... But I don't really know how bad my RSI is right now.

G-Prime
Apr 30, 2003

Baby, when it's love,
if it's not rough it isn't fun.

Minimum Syntaxing posted:

What kind of switches/weight do you use now? Was bottoming out on the rubber domes a contributing factor to your RSI?

My work keyboard is Cherry MX Black (60g), only because I don't want to desolder the entire drat thing right now, and my home is Kailh BOX Heavy Dark Yellow (70g actuation, 80g bottom out). I still bottom out if I get going really fast, and did on the rubber domes (obviously, that's how they function) as well, but the extra resistance is really what I'd credit the reduction of RSI to. I'm a developer/sysadmin by trade, so I spend the majority of my workday typing, every day, and I'd say an additional hour or two each night at home, totally ignoring weekends. It's a hell of a lot of typing. First noticed RSI problems when I got back into MMORPGs again about 3-4 years ago. Started on Cherry MX Red (45g) when I went mechanical, and moved up to Black about 6 months later at work, while still using Red at home. After about a year on the Blacks, I started using the Dark Yellow at home. I started seeing a reduction in both wrist and hand pain within about a month after going mechanical, and after I switched to the Blacks it went away entirely. Dark Yellow was just a preference thing, but it's made me want to see just how far I can push it and start getting crazy with really heavy springs somewhere down the line.

G-Prime fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Feb 24, 2019

Minimum Syntaxing
Oct 29, 2008

He looks white, but he's the son of a black man!

G-Prime posted:

My work keyboard is Cherry MX Black (60g), only because I don't want to desolder the entire drat thing right now, and my home is Kailh BOX Heavy Dark Yellow (70g actuation, 80g bottom out). I still bottom out if I get going really fast, and did on the rubber domes (obviously, that's how they function) as well, but the extra resistance is really what I'd credit the reduction of RSI to. I'm a developer/sysadmin by trade, so I spend the majority of my workday typing, every day, and I'd say an additional hour or two each night at home, totally ignoring weekends. It's a hell of a lot of typing. First noticed RSI problems when I got back into MMORPGs again about 3-4 years ago. Started on Cherry MX Red (45g) when I went mechanical, and moved up to Black about 6 months later at work, while still using Red at home. After about a year on the Blacks, I started using the Dark Yellow at home. I started seeing a reduction in both wrist and hand pain within about a month after going mechanical, and after I switched to the Blacks it went away entirely. Dark Yellow was just a preference thing, but it's made me want to see just how far I can push it and start getting crazy with really heavy springs somewhere down the line.

Ahh okay so linears... When I chose the switches for my sampler, I chose all tactiles because I tried some Razer greens and I hated their pre-travel, as well as being able to click it and go past the bump without actuating. So I completely glossed over even trying any linear switches, and doubled down on looking for the snappiest switches possible with no pre-travel. Now I wonder if all my fiddling with these things has caused this sudden RSI flair up...

Well guess I'll just get a few linear switches from novelkeys then, maybe Cherry red black and grey, and a Kailh speed dark yellow. Will be pretty ambiguous to tell where actuation is though.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe
What are my options for a maximalist keyboard?

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Minimum Syntaxing posted:

What kind of switches/weight do you use now? Was bottoming out on the rubber domes a contributing factor to your RSI?

...Ahhh, I figured that plate-mounted was a straight improvement due to the increased heftiness and durability; I didn't know it interfered with popping open and modifying switches. Assuming this is the guy you're talking about, those stems sound promising given that they're a quarter the price of Zilents, and that they also claim to have no pretravel...
But argh, looks like the only ANSI g80-1800 I see comes with Cherry blacks, whose springs look to be a good deal heavier than the Zilent springs. I might have to buy some different springs in that case, maybe Cherry blues or browns.


It's not so much the learning to solder that I'm iffy about, just the initial cost for a more-or-less one time thing. I think the figure I saw for a recommended set cost like $80 bucks, but maybe that person's recommendation was overkill?
And yeah I've been keeping my eye on the FC980M, and definitely like it more than the usual 1800s (function space is massive, too many buttons I don't use). Apparently the plate for it doesn't have extra clearance to open the switches, and there's no way to get clownshoes RGB on it; but oh well. I guess I can get that and see how I'll like a board of browns, before I delve into other switches.
Also I've been thinking that installing some sort of Mill-Max hotswap sockets would be good if I'm indecisive about switches. Got any experience with that?

Yeah, like this? Which also happens to be hot-swappable... But I don't really know how bad my RSI is right now.



Lol @80 euro soldering irons. For occasional use you get good sets for 20 bucks. If you look closely you can see that the irons in there are sold for a fiver on AliExpress.

They are not super precise at holding the temperature and they might break after a couple of years but they're a perfectly adequate hot stick to glue some switches on a plate.

There was no reason for me outside of 'want the shiny' to move on to a more expensive soldering kit.

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.
Lol trust me, if you ever do get actually started on soldering a board, it won't be a one-time thing.

The Mill-Max sockets are great but you need to be decent with soldering before you attempt those. Though with the way I do it (electrical tape on top first to keep them flush to the PCB), it's pretty straightforward. I have them on all my boards and they're great, really. Previously, even with a plate, you can still get slightly crooked switches soldered on. With the sockets, they center the switch pins nicely through the PCB through-holes. They've also prevented me from building brand new boards every time I wanted to try new switches.

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.

Constellation I posted:

Lol trust me, if you ever do get actually started on soldering a board, it won't be a one-time thing.

The Mill-Max sockets are great but you need to be decent with soldering before you attempt those. Though with the way I do it (electrical tape on top first to keep them flush to the PCB), it's pretty straightforward. I have them on all my boards and they're great, really. Previously, even with a plate, you can still get slightly crooked switches soldered on. With the sockets, they center the switch pins nicely through the PCB through-holes. They've also prevented me from building brand new boards every time I wanted to try new switches.

Yeah sure, but once you decide that you want to build more boards, buying a 'bigger' iron isn't a waste of money anymore. What I mean is that a cheap iron is perfectly adequate for a few small jobs. If you happen to like it by all means buy bigger, but don't feel compelled to invest hugely in the beginning.


e: (I mean, compared to the cost of a keyboard kit, a few tools don't matter that much anyway)

duckfarts
Jul 2, 2010

~ shameful ~





Soiled Meat

shovelbum posted:

What are my options for a maximalist keyboard?

here’s a starting point

dick traceroute
Feb 24, 2010

Open the pod bay doors, Hal.
Grimey Drawer

dick traceroute fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Feb 24, 2019

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.


gently caress me, that's not the original, right? Plate and plug look like someone build that himself. The original space cadet is supposedly a bit terrible to type with, but this once looks real nice.

e: i kind of want the plans

net cafe scandal
Mar 18, 2011

foutre posted:

Also look at 65% imo, once you're going TKL you may as well commit! It still has arrow keys and four little page up/down etc. keys in a cluster (or two as the case may be), but is still real fuckin' small. You do lose dedicated function keys, however.

I have and really like the Varmilo VA68M, but it's expensive -- it does take standard keycaps though.
The Leopold FC660M is also great, but has one or two weird size keys.

The Vortex Race 3 is also a solid 75%, fwiw. It's smaller than most TKL's, I think.


Tbh this could be an excuse to get a fancy split keyboard for ergonomics.

Fuuuck, the Race 3 is so sexy.

G-Prime
Apr 30, 2003

Baby, when it's love,
if it's not rough it isn't fun.

Minimum Syntaxing posted:

Ahh okay so linears... When I chose the switches for my sampler, I chose all tactiles because I tried some Razer greens and I hated their pre-travel, as well as being able to click it and go past the bump without actuating. So I completely glossed over even trying any linear switches, and doubled down on looking for the snappiest switches possible with no pre-travel. Now I wonder if all my fiddling with these things has caused this sudden RSI flair up...

Well guess I'll just get a few linear switches from novelkeys then, maybe Cherry red black and grey, and a Kailh speed dark yellow. Will be pretty ambiguous to tell where actuation is though.

For what it's worth, if you prefer tactiles, a roughly equivalent progression to what I did would be Cherry Brown -> Cherry Clear -> Kailh Burnt Orange. I just don't care for the tactile bump, personally.

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009


Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

Lord Stimperor posted:

gently caress me, that's not the original, right? Plate and plug look like someone build that himself. The original space cadet is supposedly a bit terrible to type with, but this once looks real nice.

e: i kind of want the plans

This was a new build from last year: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94017.0

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe

It's beautiful but no Greek key

Minimum Syntaxing
Oct 29, 2008

He looks white, but he's the son of a black man!

G-Prime posted:

For what it's worth, if you prefer tactiles, a roughly equivalent progression to what I did would be Cherry Brown -> Cherry Clear -> Kailh Burnt Orange. I just don't care for the tactile bump, personally.

Yeah I also picked a Cherry clear and a Halo clear for my sampler, but they just don't have a dramatic or satisfying drop after the bump. I later heard that the cherry clears was sort of designed to demote bottoming out, given the steep hill after the bump immediately requires a higher force than the bump.

Maybe I should look into getting some sort of ergonomic evaluation somewhere, to see whether the tactile switches I'd like would actually disagree with my body, or whether it was some recent change in posture I didn't notice. Hell, maybe all this typing I've been doing trying to find a keyboard has been hurting me, lol.

Lord Stimperor
Jun 13, 2018

I'm a lovable meme.


Probably for the better that I missed it :homebrew:

net cafe scandal
Mar 18, 2011

Would a Ducky One 2 TKL make a good base for, potentially, getting into and installing custom fancy massdrop keysets at some later date? I think I've got this mech keyboard business ALMOST figured out, except, like, the torturous difficulty of finally settling on a switch.

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass
I have a Das Keyboard S with Brown switches. I pretty much only game on this thing now so I'm thinking about getting a new keyboard. I'm thinking of going TKL or MAYBE even 60% and getting Red switches this time. I would like to have backlighting but full RGB isn't a requirement. Anyone have recommendations? I get a corporate discount at Best Buy, so that's at least where I'm starting but I know options are limited.

Don Lapre
Mar 28, 2001

If you're having problems you're either holding the phone wrong or you have tiny girl hands.

KingKapalone posted:

I have a Das Keyboard S with Brown switches. I pretty much only game on this thing now so I'm thinking about getting a new keyboard. I'm thinking of going TKL or MAYBE even 60% and getting Red switches this time. I would like to have backlighting but full RGB isn't a requirement. Anyone have recommendations? I get a corporate discount at Best Buy, so that's at least where I'm starting but I know options are limited.

GMMK if you want TKL

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

Don Lapre posted:

GMMK if you want TKL

With the Gateron Reds then? I saw on reddit that those are similar to Cherry Red.

Seems a bit expensive with a Corsair Cherry Red TKL being $80.

Don Lapre
Mar 28, 2001

If you're having problems you're either holding the phone wrong or you have tiny girl hands.

KingKapalone posted:

With the Gateron Reds then? I saw on reddit that those are similar to Cherry Red.

Seems a bit expensive with a Corsair Cherry Red TKL being $80.

Its a better keyboard. The sockets are also hot swappable so you can change the switches in the future. It also doesn't require lovely corsair software.

Corsair is also a non standard bottom row so good like finding caps.

The Modern Sky
Aug 7, 2009


We don't exist in real life, but we're working hard in your delusions!
if you get into this, then you'll end up spending quite a lot more.

From what I've seen two good 60% boards are the Vortex Pok3r and the Ducky One 2 Mini. You should have choices on what kinds of switches to go for those.

Browsing the best buy offerings, that Hyper X TKL on their website that has Cherry Reds on it. Can't tell you anything about them though.

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

The Modern Sky posted:

if you get into this, then you'll end up spending quite a lot more.

From what I've seen two good 60% boards are the Vortex Pok3r and the Ducky One 2 Mini. You should have choices on what kinds of switches to go for those.

Browsing the best buy offerings, that Hyper X TKL on their website that has Cherry Reds on it. Can't tell you anything about them though.

Yeah that's the primary one I was considering from BBY. It's very cheap after the discount. Can still consider a more expensive option though.

I know some people get really into it as a hobby, but I don't need lots of keyboards. I've had my Das Keyboard since 2011 and haven't thought twice about getting more or customizing.

AnimeIsTrash
Jun 30, 2018

Is there any easy way to replace a stabilizer on a pok3r keyboard? I seem to have lost one on my keyboard and now my spacebar wobbles around. I imagine this happened when I was replacing my keycaps a while back.

I don't have a picture of it on me right now but i'm talking about these things:

mewse
May 2, 2006

AnimeIsTrash posted:

Is there any easy way to replace a stabilizer on a pok3r keyboard? I seem to have lost one on my keyboard and now my spacebar wobbles around. I imagine this happened when I was replacing my keycaps a while back.

I don't have a picture of it on me right now but i'm talking about these things:



Apparently pok3rs have plate mount stabs. This part is a little clip that you should be able to pull the whole assembly out



If not you might be able to just replace the slider..

garfield hentai
Feb 29, 2004
I have a Mac at work now and the keyboard they gave me is a piece of poo poo that has the page up key RIGHT next to the enter key and i keep hitting it accidentally all the time and I hate it. What's the good Mac keyboard to get I don't really care much as long as it's pretty good and doesn't have the loving PAGEUP KEY RIGHT NEXT TO THE ENTER KEY

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

garfield hentai posted:

I have a Mac at work now and the keyboard they gave me is a piece of poo poo that has the page up key RIGHT next to the enter key and i keep hitting it accidentally all the time and I hate it. What's the good Mac keyboard to get I don't really care much as long as it's pretty good and doesn't have the loving PAGEUP KEY RIGHT NEXT TO THE ENTER KEY

I don't think apple's made a good keyboard since the Apple Extended Keyboard II in the 90s. I'm pretty sure there's ADB to USB adapters for them, though. If you just mean a good keyboard, just get a good keyboard that's USB and it will probably work, although control and the windows key will be command and option, or possibly vice-versa. Some manufacturers make apple keycaps to swap in for those.

G-Prime
Apr 30, 2003

Baby, when it's love,
if it's not rough it isn't fun.
Some boards can swap the behaviors as well. Pok3r has a DIP switch for it, for example.

onesixtwo
Apr 27, 2014

Don't you realize that being nice just makes you get hurt?

garfield hentai posted:

I have a Mac at work now and the keyboard they gave me is a piece of poo poo that has the page up key RIGHT next to the enter key and i keep hitting it accidentally all the time and I hate it. What's the good Mac keyboard to get I don't really care much as long as it's pretty good and doesn't have the loving PAGEUP KEY RIGHT NEXT TO THE ENTER KEY

I used a CODE with a built in DIP switch on the back of it that changed the arrangement of Windows to Option, and Alt to Command. But if you're fat fingering a button other than one of those two, dunno. Take the keycap off, thats what I used to do for the windows keys back in the day.

You can also just use any mechanical keyboard with a Mac.

spasticColon
Sep 22, 2004

In loving memory of Donald Pleasance
I got to feel some red switches on a keyboard at a Best Buy and now I'm tempted to get one but I don't want to spend a lot of money. My Redragon keyboard with blue switches has been working great so far (but it's a bit noisy and key presses feel "crunchy") and they sell a keyboard on Amazon with red switches. It would be for gaming and typing. This is the one I'm looking at:

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mec...ps%2C158&sr=8-7

spasticColon fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Mar 1, 2019

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

spasticColon posted:

I got to feel some red switches on a keyboard at a Best Buy and now I'm tempted to get one but I don't want to spend a lot of money. My Redragon keyboard with blue switches has been working great so far (but it's a bit noisy and key presses feel "crunchy") and they sell a keyboard on Amazon with red switches. It would be for gaming and typing. This is the one I'm looking at:

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mec...ps%2C158&sr=8-7

You have my permission to buy your red switch curious board. I think the Outemu switches are pretty popular alternatives to cherry.

mewse
May 2, 2006

That’s a redragon I haven’t seen yet. I think I want one. I wonder if the “hot swap” is those outemu sockets

spasticColon
Sep 22, 2004

In loving memory of Donald Pleasance
It won't be back in stock until the 5th though. :negative:

Gucci Loafers
May 20, 2006

Ask yourself, do you really want to talk to pair of really nice gaudy shoes?


Are there any chic-let style keyboards that are wired like the Apple Keyboard or Microsoft Designer Keyboard?

My issue, for no matter how hard I try to reset drives, turn off "Power off this device to save power" I keep getting a problem where there's occasional latency with the Microsoft Designer Keyboard. The worst part about this is that it only happens when I play games and it only occurs on my desktop computer.

Meldonox
Jan 13, 2006

Hey, are you listening to a word I'm saying?
Is there a particularly good switch or keyboard type for someone who types really hard?

I grew up learning to type with and playing computer games on one of those classic IBM keyboards, so I'm a super hard key presser. I've been wanting a new keyboard for work so I'm not stuck using a laptop keyboard, but I can really make a keyboard sing. I messed with a Cherry sampler someone brought to the office, but it was pretty immediately apparent that red, blue, green, it didn't matter what switch or whether I use dampening rings, I bottom keys out hard enough that you're gonna hear my typing loud and clear.

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass
Anyone have any comparisons to make for the iKBC F87 and the GMMK? Both are TKL, have Red switches, and have backlit keys. The iKBC is $5 less and has PBT doubleshot instead of the GMMK's ABS. I highly doubt I'd ever be interested in swapping switches or keycaps so the GMMK doesn't really offer anything from that perspective.

Not sure if the Ducky One 2 is worth the extra $15-20. The Mini of that is $5 less, but not sure if I'd miss the F keys too much.

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DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?

Meldonox posted:

Is there a particularly good switch or keyboard type for someone who types really hard?

I grew up learning to type with and playing computer games on one of those classic IBM keyboards, so I'm a super hard key presser. I've been wanting a new keyboard for work so I'm not stuck using a laptop keyboard, but I can really make a keyboard sing. I messed with a Cherry sampler someone brought to the office, but it was pretty immediately apparent that red, blue, green, it didn't matter what switch or whether I use dampening rings, I bottom keys out hard enough that you're gonna hear my typing loud and clear.

Just buy a Unicomp

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