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its stain "less", not stain "free"
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Feb 23, 2019 20:22
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Hey beer how did you do the rocky parts of your base that come up a little bit? Oyster shells.
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Feb 23, 2019 20:33
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R0ckfish posted:I am no material scientist but if I remember correctly stainless steel relies on an oxide to remain stainless, so can corrode in an absence of oxygen. Wouldn't the oxygen in the water do? Also wait, isn't oxygen what causes rust in the first place? I honestly have no idea about chemistry and physics <.< Re: Scoundrel. I too think the Scoundrel may have a robber mask on, although none of the pictures I've found online we're painted that way and the official art has no mask. Also it only seem to be sculpted on part of the model's face 
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Feb 23, 2019 20:33
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That Italian Guy posted:It could probably do with at least some additional highlights (especially the skin tone) but I'm a bit baffled by the weird surfaces some parts of the miniature have - like the "ridge" right below the right eye. The Gloomhaven miniatures are pretty faithful to their concept art, kinda to their detriment since the concept art clearly wasn't made with minis in mind. So take a look at them if you're confused what some component is, which will probably happen plenty.
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Feb 23, 2019 20:49
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The Moon Monster posted:The Gloomhaven miniatures are pretty faithful to their concept art, kinda to their detriment since the concept art clearly wasn't made with minis in mind. So take a look at them if you're confused what some component is, which will probably happen plenty. You know what, zooming in on the concept art I can see the outline of a light brown mask on her face. Never noticed it before on the character's card while playing. 
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Feb 23, 2019 21:03
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Can anyone recommend an online 2D digital art painting class? I’m struggling with things like OSL, conceptualizing with consistency the placement of the light (on nmm and non) and figured something like this would help. It would probably help in all aspects of miniature painting.
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Feb 23, 2019 21:49
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Honestly the best way to learn to paint textures either on computer or on canvas, is to just get some photos of the material you want to replicate and paint a solid cube of it. Like a cube of wood, a cube of rusty metal, a cube of glass or water. Just by copying photos. There's isn't really a trick to textures it's just something you have to know. Now there are plenty of tricks to making textures with different mediums but that's a whole nother story. I am beginning to loathe these boys. I think I much prefer painting single models rather than squads. Factory line painting is really not doing it for me.  But eh neatly there. I also just spent way to much money on a bunch of new models to paint. This could become a problem.
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Feb 24, 2019 00:17
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That Italian Guy posted:Wouldn't the oxygen in the water do? Also wait, isn't oxygen what causes rust in the first place? I honestly have no idea about chemistry and physics <.< Stainless steels have a layer that is passivated and won't corrode*. The catch is saying stainless is like saying paint, there are varieties that won't corrode in ridiculously strong acids (inconel, monel, hastalloy) while other grades that will rust in your kitchen sink. Some will corrode, but not create rust like you know it. My guess is the stainless ball bearings most people use are the absolute cheapest grades (409) and have just enough chromium to meet the basic definition. Ceramic, as Beer used, is a good choice but not as dense (3-6 g/cm3). For maximum density and corrosion resistance get tungsten carbide balls (almost as dense as gold). It's possible that pigments may react with the passivated layer depending on how the color is created.
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Feb 24, 2019 00:36
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I had stainless balls corrode in my bottles, but they were 10+ years old.
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Feb 24, 2019 00:52
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I use hematite beads (essentially they're already made of rust) and they haven't caused any issues in several years. I like them over glass beads because they're a lot denser, so they rattle around real good.
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Feb 24, 2019 00:58
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beergod posted:Can anyone recommend an online 2D digital art painting class? Istebrak on youtube is good at explaining why she is doing things while she does paint overs on students digital work.
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Feb 24, 2019 01:35
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 Is there a way to strip the paint off these and start all over? I am really unhappy with how these two turned out. :/
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Feb 24, 2019 08:17
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If you're in the States, Castrol Super Clean (the poo poo in the purple bottle) will strip paint and superglue while being safe for the plastic.
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Feb 24, 2019 08:20
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Looking at them some more up close with pics from my phone, I may still be able to salvage them. Going to need a lot of touch up.
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Feb 24, 2019 08:29
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BlackIronHeart posted:If you're in the States, Castrol Super Clean (the poo poo in the purple bottle) will strip paint and superglue while being safe for the plastic. Even cheaper is L.A.'s Totally Awesome household cleaner, which is available in bottles at Dollar Tree for a buck, or Dollar General in a bigger jug for around $3. Works just as well as Simple Green or Purple Power, is just as safe to pour down the drain when you're done, and will strip the oils from your hands the exact same way as the others if you're not careful. 
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Feb 24, 2019 09:43
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Even cheaper is L.A.'s Totally Awesome household cleaner, which is available in bottles at Dollar Tree for a buck, or Dollar General in a bigger jug for around $3. Works just as well as Simple Green or Purple Power, is just as safe to pour down the drain when you're done, and will strip the oils from your hands the exact same way as the others if you're not careful. Ya all are missing out on Dawn Power Dissolver. It's more expensive per bottle but it's a gel you spray directly onto the model so you don't use much. Its plastic and drain safe, works in about 20 minutes, and takes off paint that LATA and Simple Green could not after a week of soaking. It's also apparently really great at cleaning greasy pans.
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Feb 24, 2019 16:19
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Bucnasti posted:Ya all are missing out on Dawn Power Dissolver. It's more expensive per bottle but it's a gel you spray directly onto the model so you don't use much. Its plastic and drain safe, works in about 20 minutes, and takes off paint that LATA and Simple Green could not after a week of soaking. I'll have to keep an eye out for that, for both purposes.
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Feb 24, 2019 16:22
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Cross-posting from the 40K thread, the result of me bugging goons for advice: 
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Feb 24, 2019 20:28
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I wanted to post my discord painting contest entry in here because I'm pretty proud of it. I've been back in the painting hobby for a little under a year and it's probably the best thing I've done so far. 
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Feb 25, 2019 02:09
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I painted a large spooky man, was a fun project to learn the new airbrush.
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Feb 25, 2019 02:27
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I bought my GW order but forgot to consider the eye lens color. What would look best with White as a primary and orange as a secondary? I thought about just doing the silver + blue shade thing, is that a good idea?
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Feb 25, 2019 03:07
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Slandible posted:I painted a large spooky man, was a fun project to learn the new airbrush. Airbrushes are fun, good job
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Feb 25, 2019 03:35
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I'm making a moon terrain piece out of a large styrofoam hemisphere. After priming/basecoating it with the airbrush, I noticed some pits in the styrofoam texture that were kind of distractingly visible:  So I'm wondering what my options are. My first thought was to take the gloss medium I've got lying around, go over it with white/gloss mix, then go over it with white again to try to get rid of the gloss. Sort of weird to think "ok I need this detail gone immediately."
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Feb 25, 2019 04:52
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wdarkk posted:I'm making a moon terrain piece out of a large styrofoam hemisphere. I use PVA (Elmer's Glue) for that kind of thing.
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Feb 25, 2019 05:12
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I use PVA (Elmer's Glue) for that kind of thing. That sounds like a good idea. Mix paint in, or just paint over it?
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Feb 25, 2019 05:48
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Even though I should learn how to do gem effects on my own the citadel technical paints for it pretty much rule, Im surprised how good they turn out.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:15
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wdarkk posted:That sounds like a good idea. Mix paint in, or just paint over it? Paint over it. You can also do things like add sand or other texture to the PVA depending on the desired effect.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:34
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Things I learned this weekend from painting; get better at thinning my loving paints. I essentially ruined three models this weekend and I'm not happy with how they turned out cause I'm an idiot.
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Feb 25, 2019 08:22
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Controversial opinion: I don't thin my paints at all, at least not on the palette. Instead I keep my brush "suitably" wet, pick up some paint, and brush down on the wet palette until I get the consistency I need.
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Feb 25, 2019 08:51
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Sounds like a great way to wreck a brush Thin your paints people
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Feb 25, 2019 09:54
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I said come in! posted:Things I learned this weekend from painting; get better at thinning my loving paints. I essentially ruined three models this weekend and I'm not happy with how they turned out cause I'm an idiot. You can always strip them! I stripped some old guard tanks i painted years ago to give me something to practice airbrushing and there was some odd satisfaction watching the super thick, super terrible paint job sloughing off the model after a day steeping in dettol.
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Feb 25, 2019 11:21
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Skarsnik posted:Sounds like a great way to wreck a brush My 10+ years old brushes, excepting the awful Army Painter brushes the disintegrated the first day, would disagree with you. Granted, my most used brushes don't hold as fine a tip as when they were new, but I doubt any brush does that. I don't see how this technique of mine is any worse for brushes than any other; I scoop paint from the pot with a flattened tooth-pick, deposit the paint on the wet palette, wetten the brush, pick up some paint with the tip, then brush on the wet palette until I get the wanted saturation and consistency. IIRC, fairly standard water-colour painting technique.
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Feb 25, 2019 11:50
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Depending on the consistency of the paint and the application you're using it for it's sometimes appropriate to not thin it anymore than you get from using a moist brush and a wet palette. Like if you're basecoating with red or something. That said if you're new I'd just thin everything until you get a good feel for paint consistency. Leaving brushstrokes or a blobby texture looks real bad.
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Feb 25, 2019 11:53
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Fair enough, your description made it sound like you were picking up the paint from the pot with the brush It still seems unnecessary though, why not just thin once instead of having to do it with every new paint load on the brush?
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Feb 25, 2019 13:04
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Haha! I’m unorthodox, not a madman  I’ve painted water-colours for 20 or so years, and it’s what I’m most comfortable with. Also, it gives me more control over the viscosity of the paint, rather than dropping an uncertain amount of water into an uncertain amount of paint. Besides, the water in Denmark as hard as gently caress, so too much of it tends to leave chalk rings at the edges.
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Feb 25, 2019 13:24
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inscrutable horse posted:I’ve painted water-colours for 20 or so years, and it’s what I’m most comfortable with. Ultimately this is all that matters. It works for you and you're comfortable with it.
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Feb 25, 2019 13:48
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I used only Reaper paints and a wet palette and I rarely felt the need to thin my paints. Then I tried some Army Painter gray and I got why people talk about thinning paints so much, that stuff is like toothpaste.
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Feb 25, 2019 15:03
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:I used only Reaper paints and a wet palette and I rarely felt the need to thin my paints. Then I tried some Army Painter gray and I got why people talk about thinning paints so much, that stuff is like toothpaste. I don't have too many Reaper brand paints, but every time I use them I forget just how much less viscous it is compared to most other brands. poo poo's crazy.
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Feb 25, 2019 15:20
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Professor Shark posted:I bought my GW order but forgot to consider the eye lens color. What would look best with White as a primary and orange as a secondary? I thought about just doing the silver + blue shade thing, is that a good idea? I would do blue for two reasons: Good complimentary color Doesn't need other shades for highlighting, can just mix white. With green you really need yellow for nice looking highlights, that would be my second choice.
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Feb 25, 2019 15:33
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:I used only Reaper paints and a wet palette and I rarely felt the need to thin my paints. Then I tried some Army Painter gray and I got why people talk about thinning paints so much, that stuff is like toothpaste. Weird, I have the opposite feedback on AP grays, at least the 2 I've tried (wolf gray and another one that is lighter, don't remember the name), they are very thin and watery even after shaking the containers with a steel ball in it. My AP white is toothpaste-like in consistency though (to the point that I'm using a bit of it and a bit of black to add thickness to the grays). EDIT: speaking of color theory, is there a simple guide made specifically for miniatures, maybe with your typical GW, AP or Vallejo color names? I know the basic idea behind it, but I'm not sure which specific blue would suite a flesh tone and stuff like. That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 15:46
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