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Wow, really wasn’t expecting that many answers thanks guys. Just to clarify, I did every single v0 and v1 in the gym before going to v2s and did most of these before starting trying v3s that looked fun and not impossible. I thought you were supposed to try and have both feet on the wall as much as possible, thanks to whoever said to get comfortable having only one foot and using the other to get closer to the wall, that helped a bunch. I just finished my third climbing day at a different bouldering only gym that is insanely awesome so I couldn’t try the specific suggestions you guys gave me for the problems I shared, but the underlying ideas made some things wayyyyy easier. I tried to be more static in easier climbs. Also focused on using my legs more/not launching myself from my arms which is pretty hard to do for some reason, will keep practicing. . Also overhangs are evil. Have trouble with the v1s on steep overhangs but flashed most v2 that were more vertical. I’ll post more videos in a few weeks when I feel like my technique improved to get some more feedback. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 19:44
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KingColliwog posted:I thought you were supposed to try and have both feet on the wall as much as possible, thanks to whoever said to get comfortable having only one foot and using the other to get closer to the wall, that helped a bunch. For the most part on 0s and 1s, that is true. Once you get into harder routes you'll find that being able to position your center of gravity under key holds is what matters, and that will require moving your feet around. When you see someone flagging a foot off to one side or another rather than putting it on a hold, that's what's going on. This is the sort of thing that you get an intuitive feel for if you climb enough, but you can get some immediate understanding of if you work with a stronger boulderer on some problems near your limit. On overhangs, the vast majority of the time, the problem new climbers have is footwork. You need to do more than put your foot on any given hold - you need to actively press your foot against it. That action will initiate some tension in your core. In an overhang, you need to transfer as much weight to your feet as you can or else your arms will get tired very quickly. Unlike vertical climbs where gravity transfers weight to your feet by simply standing on a hold, you need to actively push against it in a roof.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:04
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armorer posted:For the most part on 0s and 1s, that is true. Once you get into harder routes you'll find that being able to position your center of gravity under key holds is what matters, and that will require moving your feet around. When you see someone flagging a foot off to one side or another rather than putting it on a hold, that's what's going on. This is the sort of thing that you get an intuitive feel for if you climb enough, but you can get some immediate understanding of if you work with a stronger boulderer on some problems near your limit. That’s why I really enjoyed watching good climbers today. Seeing how they went up some stuff and trying to copy some of the moves made some hard climb really easy. The place I went before was almost empty and this other gym has a lot more people which I enjoy. That makes sense for overhangs, I was sort of trying to find ways to push down on them but that’s pretty dumb when I think about it. I tried heel hooks that made no sense because that’s the only thing that sort of worked. I’ll try actively pushing on them next time once my hands are healed
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Feb 22, 2019 23:44
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KingColliwog posted:That’s why I really enjoyed watching good climbers today. Seeing how they went up some stuff and trying to copy some of the moves made some hard climb really easy. The place I went before was almost empty and this other gym has a lot more people which I enjoy. Lie down on the ground on your back with the ball of one foot against a wall and your knee slightly bent. Lift your head just enough that you can look at your toes, and press against the wall with your toes like you are trying to move yourself across the floor. Pay attention to your core as you do this, it will instantly tense up as you press with your foot. That is the feeling of core tension you should feel, and sort of pressure that you typically should apply, to holds in a roof problem. In addition on some of them it will benefit you more if you can get the toe of your shoe into the hold and press down while pressing out. It will stabilize you a lot in a roof and take some weight off your arms.
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Feb 22, 2019 23:51
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So I've been back climbing again for about 2 months now. I was going about every other day for around 3 weeks. Now that I'm back up to V4s I'm starting to get some mild to moderate finger pain when I stop climbing. How concerned should I be? Should I just cut back to 3 days a week or should I consider taking some time off?
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Feb 25, 2019 21:58
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Local bouldering gym has a “yoga for climbers” class once a week that’s free. Think I might check it out and climb after.
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Feb 25, 2019 23:37
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Yoga really helped with my breathing while climbing, If you find yourself holding your breath through moves I highly recommend it.
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Feb 25, 2019 23:49
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It is good for strength and for flexibility as well.
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Feb 26, 2019 02:19
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I reaaally need to start doing yoga, but uh, I've never done it before and the gym I'm already paying for doesn't seem to have any classes targeted towards/suitable for beginners
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Feb 26, 2019 02:50
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Hauki posted:I reaaally need to start doing yoga, but uh, I've never done it before and the gym I'm already paying for doesn't seem to have any classes targeted towards/suitable for beginners Honestly all the classes at ET are fine for any level. Just tell the instructor and they will give you a bit of coaching during it.
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Feb 26, 2019 03:21
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spwrozek posted:Honestly all the classes at ET are fine for any level. Just tell the instructor and they will give you a bit of coaching during it. Really? Hm, okay. A couple people now have warned me about some of the instructors/classes, but I'll suck it up and try one. I'm guessing I should get a mat at least.
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Feb 26, 2019 03:36
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Just go and try your best. Generous use of a block will help. Yoga is cool and good and if there is a snobby yoga instructor I'd be amazed because every yogi I've met are extremely chill.
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Feb 26, 2019 03:43
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Hauki posted:Really? Hm, okay. A couple people now have warned me about some of the instructors/classes, but I'll suck it up and try one. I'm guessing I should get a mat at least. I only have experience at the Golden ET. But every class I do had been chill. Have to start somewhere.
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Feb 26, 2019 03:54
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Wow, I started doing upper body weight training 2 months ago and now I can pretty comfortably do 5.11 on indoor toprope–previously I'd maybe project 5.11a but would mostly stick with 5.10abcd. Feeling pretty good right now.
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Feb 26, 2019 04:55
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armorer posted:Lie down on the ground on your back with the ball of one foot against a wall and your knee slightly bent. Lift your head just enough that you can look at your toes, and press against the wall with your toes like you are trying to move yourself across the floor. Pay attention to your core as you do this, it will instantly tense up as you press with your foot. Thank you, made the overhang I was struggling with the other day surprisingly easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5n_vpO4RYU My foot slips a few time and it looks like I’m on the ball of my foot when it does. Does that mean I should try to use only my big toes on holds or is it just my foot placement that is off?
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Feb 26, 2019 22:07
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Any of you guys hit tiers of Zion / this early in the year? Debating checking out some quick sport after work there, it’s like 10 minutes from my office.
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Feb 26, 2019 22:50
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KingColliwog posted:Thank you, made the overhang I was struggling with the other day surprisingly easy. There are a lot of people in here better than me so take it with a grain of salt, but a few things I noticed: 1) When your foot slips off the volume at 12 seconds, just pressing harder into the volume with your toe should prevent that. I don't quite know how to explain it but once my hands are good I tend to actively think about my toe for a second and then move my hands again. 2) Not sure if the heel hook at 24 seconds would be as helpful as crossing your right leg over to the one over the start. It's a little hard to see what the feet are like on the left side but you look kind of scrunched up. 3) The reach at 40 seconds would be a lot easier if you dropped your right knee so that your right hip turned more into the wall. In general you also spend a lot of time hanging with a lot of weight on your arms. One thing I like to do on V1s and V2s is climb them 4 times in a row, one right after another, and work on finding a more efficient way to do it each time. Your arms get so tired by the fourth one that you kind of have to make your legs do more of the work, which is what you really want to be going for whenever possible.
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Feb 26, 2019 23:00
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I’m really loving all the insight I’m getting, thanks a lot. I’m going back tomorrow and il read what you said before doing it again and try to test your ideas. Doing the same thing four times in a row and trying to do it more efficiently each time sounds like a good plan. This new gym is so cool and pretty and has so many problems that I just did everything starting from v0 to v2 once or twice until I got it and then moved to the next problem. The I started trying v3s and it was hilarious how most v2s weren’t all that hard but all v3 felt way above my limit. I couldn’t even get in the starting position in half of them haha.
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Feb 26, 2019 23:35
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has anyone here suffered a hamstring injury while heel hooking? I hurt myself doing a fairly high hook a few days ago and i'm kinda struggling to identify what i actually hurt. i can walk, run, basically sprint with no issue, but if i open up my hip so the inside of my foot is facing mostly forward, i can barely climb stairs because of a sharp pain that runs from the top half of where my hamstring is into my glutes i ask this because virtually every piece of information online suggests that i should be suffering pain just from walking or jumping or anything that uses my hamstring, but its completely unphased unless i turn my foot outwards 60 degrees and lift it a couple feet up
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Feb 27, 2019 00:59
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Hauki posted:Any of you guys hit tiers of Zion / this early in the year? Debating checking out some quick sport after work there, it’s like 10 minutes from my office. It faces north and will be cold, wet, and snowy. The best cold weather crag is closed for birds right now. The other stuff is all the way by tunnel 5.
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Feb 27, 2019 03:31
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spwrozek posted:It faces north and will be cold, wet, and snowy. Gotcha. We ended up bouldering down in deer creek canyon instead, but I’m already fiending to get back outside.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:14
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Nice thing about Colorado is you can pretty much climb outside all year.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:21
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BlancoNino posted:Yoga really helped with my breathing while climbing, If you find yourself holding your breath through moves I highly recommend it. spwrozek posted:It is good for strength and for flexibility as well. Yoga class was tonight, it absolutely destroyed me in a good way (my flexibility is terrible). Then bouldered for a couple hours after. A plus would highly recommend
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Feb 27, 2019 08:02
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Verviticus posted:has anyone here suffered a hamstring injury while heel hooking? I hurt myself doing a fairly high hook a few days ago and i'm kinda struggling to identify what i actually hurt. i can walk, run, basically sprint with no issue, but if i open up my hip so the inside of my foot is facing mostly forward, i can barely climb stairs because of a sharp pain that runs from the top half of where my hamstring is into my glutes Knees have a lot of connective tissue, could be any number of things. FWIW something very similar happened to me a couple years ago, but even worse — audible pop during a heel hook, with pain but no swelling for a couple days after even while walking. I was sure I had torn my LCL or meniscus, so I scheduled an appt with an orthopedist and got an x-ray. By the time of my appt the pain had gone away, and the X-ray showed a little fluid in my knee but no structural damage of any sort. I took it easy for a few weeks with no heel hooks and looked up exercises for knee rehab just to be safe, and was good as new within a month or two. Obviously YMMV, but if you’re not in crippling pain you can probably at least give yourself a few days to see if it gets better spontaneously. Regardless, worth avoiding heel hooks and looking into rehab exercises
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Feb 27, 2019 16:23
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Any core programs for climbers anyone can suggest? I mean I know i can find something pretty easily out there, just looking for anything anyone can vouch for. My lack of core strength is not helping me.
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Feb 27, 2019 16:27
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ShaneB posted:Any core programs for climbers anyone can suggest? I mean I know i can find something pretty easily out there, just looking for anything anyone can vouch for. My lack of core strength is not helping me. On a similar note, I'd really like a full workout program that compliments regular climbing. I've found a lot of stuff but some of the core exercises like front levers are way too hard for a relatively unfit person like myself.
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Feb 27, 2019 17:38
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spwrozek posted:Nice thing about Colorado is you can pretty much climb outside all year. well, I don’t think I’ll be going outside today but I might boulder (badly) at the Golden ET if any of you all are around
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Feb 27, 2019 17:58
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Hauki posted:well, I don’t think I’ll be going outside today but I might boulder (badly) at the Golden ET if any of you all are around I am up in Minneapolis where it is even colder... I will be back to climbing in May. Hopefully back to hard climbing late summer.
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Feb 27, 2019 18:06
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ShaneB posted:Any core programs for climbers anyone can suggest? I mean I know i can find something pretty easily out there, just looking for anything anyone can vouch for. My lack of core strength is not helping me. I wouldn't call this a program per say, but I do planks, side planks, variants of dead bugs, pikes, atomic pushups, saws, and oblique crunches. You can up the difficulty with either a bosu or a trx. I've felt that core strength is less about specific exercise and more about putting the time in and making sure you're engaging your core and not using other muscles.
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Feb 27, 2019 19:02
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I've found that TRX/rings are a good way to incorporate core work with general body weight exercises.
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Feb 27, 2019 19:50
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ShaneB posted:Any core programs for climbers anyone can suggest? I mean I know i can find something pretty easily out there, just looking for anything anyone can vouch for. My lack of core strength is not helping me. Not the answer you're looking for, but this post on r/climbharder is important to consider when you decide you need a stronger "core": https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/asq9mc/training_body_tension_not_core_strength_itself/egw2j9s For something more off the shelf, there are some good conditioning & supplemental strength exercises in the Crimpd app, which is the training app developed by the Lattice climbing training & research team
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Feb 27, 2019 20:05
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Not the answer you're looking for, but this post on r/climbharder is important to consider when you decide you need a stronger "core": https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/asq9mc/training_body_tension_not_core_strength_itself/egw2j9s Yeah this is a good reminder. The biggest issue I seem to notice right now is when I am hanging off something and need to reach up to grab a slightly overhanging hold, it can be really challenging for me to keep everything "tight" and I just end up falling off. This description is pretty meaningless, so maybe I'll take a video of a V2 that I was having trouble with at the end of the night. Usually I just thwomp every V2 I see, but this was a particularly annoying problem for my climbing weakness ATM. I definitely see this more with V3s, where I often need to press up with my feet and legs while maintaining my weight near the wall so my grip doesn't fail on a hold as I reach for another.
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Feb 27, 2019 20:16
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ShaneB posted:Yeah this is a good reminder. I'd guess that generally speaking, the type of weakness you're describing lies in the posterior chain, i.e. the muscles on the back of your body. If you hang off a couple jugs with your feet on an overhang and experiment with creating the feeling of tension, you'll probably notice that squeezing your glutes hard really helps with keeping as much weight on your feet and sucking your hips into the wall. But a lot of times when people think "I need a strong core" they start doing a bunch of abdominal exercises. Not that strong abs aren't important in climbing, but they're often not the solution to the problem that many climbers face. You can find a million exercises for the posterior chain, and a lot of folks swear by the deadlift as an efficient way to target many muscles in the PC in one compound movement. Personally, as someone with no background in deadlifting, I found it to be too much time/effort to master the movement in order to deadlift safely, and prefer simpler/less intense bodyweight PC exercises such as planks, reverse planks, bridges, hip extensions, etc. While these might not be as good as building max strength as weightlifting, my suspicion (without any real evidence to back it up, so take with a grain of salt) is that you don't need to be extremely strong in the core for climbing and that bodyweight exercises are generally "good enough" to get a base level of strength, and that further improvements will come from figuring out how to apply that strength (i.e. technique, movement practice) rather than increase the strength, as well as in improving mobility/ROM in key joints like shoulders & hips.
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Feb 27, 2019 20:48
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I will second all of that, deadlifting is fun but it's one of those exercises where it's incredibly easy to gently caress up your back by doing it wrong. I haven't found any way of training for body tension which is better than levers and similar bar exercises such as leg raises and ice cream makers
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Feb 27, 2019 22:57
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I used to powerlift, so my deadlift technique is sound. But my hips and glutes have become problem areas for me, so it's time to get back on that poo poo, it seems.
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Feb 27, 2019 23:49
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Are straight leg deadlifts considered as difficult as regular deadlifts for those with poor form? Those require much less 'proper' form than regular deadlifts, and cover all the same muscle groups. Personally I haven't done a regular deadlift in years, and I'm much happier and climbing stronger than ever. Squat sets of 5-3-1 are also good for posterior chain, for those who dont have poor form.
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Feb 28, 2019 00:40
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Ubiquitus posted:Are straight leg deadlifts considered as difficult as regular deadlifts for those with poor form? Those require much less 'proper' form than regular deadlifts, and cover all the same muscle groups. I don't think they are any less difficult, but they do shift more focus on the hamstring. I'd be concerned that poor form on the standard deadlift would translate to poor form on the straight legged version given that there is less feedback on where to stop.
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Feb 28, 2019 01:12
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Straight Leg deadlift are harder to do properly in my opinion. Normal deadlift are not as hard as you think. Watching some videos and starting really light (think 1 plate max of you're a make in decent shape) while you focus on form ( film yourself ask for form checks on this forum ) and add 5 to 10 pounds a week. It's a very basic human movement that you should be able to do anyway. Might keep you from getting injured picking up a box or something. I'm guessing that for climbing you probably should keep things relatively light anyway. Not sure deadlidting 4 plates had much carry over and it'll make you heavy. Squats are much harder to do properly though. Really doable for anyone, but it will take more time. ——— On another note I did 3 v3 today. Beginners progress is fun. 5 session ago most v2 seemed like I would need a few weeks to be able to do and I expected the v3 to take a few months. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Feb 28, 2019 |
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Feb 28, 2019 01:39
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Hauki posted:well, I don’t think I’ll be going outside today but I might boulder (badly) at the Golden ET if any of you all are around I’m in Boulder, so not likely. Once Denver Spot opens I’ll be there on lunch breaks.
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Feb 28, 2019 07:16
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If anyone wants to look into deadlifting to supplement climbing, and has had trouble with form in the past, I can't recommend this video enough. I consider it to be the gold standard for anyone who has trouble understanding proper deadlift form. Friends of mine have struggled for months, lifting unsafely, and this vid straight-up fixes them. E: the key steps outlined in the vid: #1 3:10: Barbell over mind-foot. #2 3:38: Place hands on barbell. #3 3:55: Bring shins to barbell. #4 4:08: squeeze your chest out/up. #5 4:38: Drag the barbell up your body.
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Feb 28, 2019 12:48
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