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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Rubberized spray paint might work?

Comedy option: flex seal
I’m tempted to try it (flex seal) just because I’ve seen it on TV and apparently it’s magic!

Yeah, I’m open to specific suggestions, but I figured one of the rubbery spray paints would probably work.

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Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Krakkles posted:

I’m tempted to try it (flex seal) just because I’ve seen it on TV and apparently it’s magic!

Yeah, I’m open to specific suggestions, but I figured one of the rubbery spray paints would probably work.
Is this your mustang? Hell I might just find a sharpie since the light isn't good down by the shifter anyway.

But yeah plastidip or flex seal, whatever. Literally any paint who cares.



e:

Cage fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Feb 25, 2019

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Cage posted:

Is this your mustang? Hell I might just find a sharpie since the light isn't good down by the shifter anyway.

But yeah plastidip or flex seal, whatever. Literally any paint who cares.



e:
Yep! Getting a double-din bezel and a new stereo, figured I’d repurpose the buttons, since they’re there.

I’ll probably try sharpie first, then revisit if it’s bugging me. Good call.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Krakkles posted:

Yep! Getting a double-din bezel and a new stereo, figured I’d repurpose the buttons, since they’re there.

I’ll probably try sharpie first, then revisit if it’s bugging me. Good call.
Do what now? The defrost/trac control/fog light buttons? What're you gonna do?

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

IOwnCalculus posted:

If they're like my Honda's steering wheel buttons, the print is reverse - the black is printed on a white plastic, so that the text can glow at night. So now some of my steering wheel controls are white splotches.

My Jeep, on non-backlit buttons, has white print on a black button at least.

I was going to suggest just putting it where you'll touch it and the writing will be gone right quick!

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Cage posted:

Do what now? The defrost/trac control/fog light buttons? What're you gonna do?
+ light, +noise; probably. I actually initially considered using one to control dimming for the headunit, but that was mostly based on Crutchfield saying "not used; just tape it off", which is dumb, because really it's just "wire to headlight switch".

I have the '99-'00 style defrost / fog buttons, and don't intend to relocate, and also don't have traction control, so I figure I'll find uses for 'em. I haven't decided for sure, but having unused buttons would bother me, and I don't feel like patching over the spots.

It's also occurred to me that I might be able to source some amusement from leaving "TRAC OFF" on the button that actually does something totally unrelated, but that would be juvenile.

Uthor posted:

I was going to suggest just putting it where you'll touch it and the writing will be gone right quick!
Not a bad idea, though all of the other buttons on my (similar era) interior have fared pretty well, so they may be tougher than usual.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
set one to lower your car on the fly so it can be instantly faster~

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Cage posted:

set one to lower your car on the fly so it can be instantly faster~
haha; how clever

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

tactlessbastard posted:

Maybe I need to resurrect my 'Im in over my head' thread lol.

drat, cursed myself. Car spent the day at the mechanic down the road from work today. They say it is the driver side bearing and it's trashed the hub as well so I'm looking at $770 to get that fixed all in. While they had it up on the rack they showed me a bunch of other problems that they wanted $$$ to fix but I'll be tackling them myself. Look for "I'm in over my head" to get some thread necromancy soon.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

tactlessbastard posted:

drat, cursed myself. Car spent the day at the mechanic down the road from work today. They say it is the driver side bearing and it's trashed the hub as well so I'm looking at $770 to get that fixed all in. While they had it up on the rack they showed me a bunch of other problems that they wanted $$$ to fix but I'll be tackling them myself. Look for "I'm in over my head" to get some thread necromancy soon.
That's an enormous amount of money for a hub and bearing, unless I'm missing something (exotic procedure to do it, special model of car, foreign currency?). Rockauto lists a hub & bearing for a 2005 civic in the $10-50 range, and 9 hours of labor at $80/hour seems like a lot.

Even accounting for inflation because it's paying someone else to do it, that's ... steep.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Krakkles posted:

That's an enormous amount of money for a hub and bearing, unless I'm missing something (exotic procedure to do it, special model of car, foreign currency?). Rockauto lists a hub & bearing for a 2005 civic in the $10-50 range, and 9 hours of labor at $80/hour seems like a lot.

Even accounting for inflation because it's paying someone else to do it, that's ... steep.

In short, find a new shop.

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

Colostomy Bag posted:

In short, find a new shop.

Well, poo poo.

DrakeriderCa
Feb 3, 2005

But I'm a real cowboy!

DrakeriderCa posted:

2016 Hyundai Tucson with the 1.6l Turbo engine.

At about 54k km I replaced the spark plugs. When I pulled one of the plugs, I noticed a metal shaving on the insulator. After talking with McTinkerson, he thought it would be a good idea to take a look inside. I borrowed his USB probe camera and took a few pictures.

Here's the picture of the plug with shaving(s) on it: (Thumbnailed)


These 3 are from the cylinder where the metal shaving came out:




These 3 are for comparison from a different cylinder:




Is there anything compelling in there? I know the pictures aren't super high resolution. Is it worth taking in to the dealership to have it looked at under warranty?

Anybody have any input on this? If not, I'll just take it in to have it looked at. If there's a problem, I was hoping to have some ammunition before I arm wrestle the service manager again.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Honestly not sure what you're talking about. Everything looks completely normal to me.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Krakkles posted:

That's an enormous amount of money for a hub and bearing, unless I'm missing something (exotic procedure to do it, special model of car, foreign currency?). Rockauto lists a hub & bearing for a 2005 civic in the $10-50 range, and 9 hours of labor at $80/hour seems like a lot.

Even accounting for inflation because it's paying someone else to do it, that's ... steep.

Betting that's a dealer, using OEM parts with the "we're adding the typical dealer markup, then adding a shop markup to the parts on top of that" poo poo.

tactlessbastard posted:

Well, poo poo.

The hub and bearing are pressed in, so you either need to remove the spindle and use a press, or use a slide hammer to remove the old one and a specific tool to install the new one. In short, it's a bit beyond the scope of most DIY jobs without dropping some cash on tools. Too bad it's not a rear one, those just bolt in.

Take it to an independent shop, or a Honda specialist. Find one with good ratings on Yelp. I don't remember if you mentioned, but what state are you in (and city/metro area)? One of us may be able to make a recommendation.

If this was at the dealer, if you were dealing with a mechanic, you may try asking him if he'd be willing to do it as a side job for cash. SOME dealers will allow mechanics to do side work when the shop is slow. A lot of the chain shops also have mechanics that will do cash work after management is gone for the day (after 6pm or so); a friend that works for a Pep Boys service center (formerly Just Brakes) does anything that takes an hour or less as cash work so long as no upper management is around and you bring the parts. I'd highly suggest Timken for the parts (they're on Rockauto).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Feb 26, 2019

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

DrakeriderCa posted:

Anybody have any input on this? If not, I'll just take it in to have it looked at. If there's a problem, I was hoping to have some ammunition before I arm wrestle the service manager again.

What brand/part number of spark plug is that supposed to be? Insulator and center electrode look funny to me, but maybe it's just me.

Not in the anything is wrong with your engine way, but maybe you have a fake spark plug way. But I'm totally not sure!

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Here's a hopefully not too dumb question from a non-car guy: how hard would it be to add cruise control to a 6th gen (1989-1995) Toyota pickup 4wd, manual transmission, 4-cyl 22re engine?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Aftermarket / universal systems do exist, but they're pretty involved to install and calibrate.

Ideally, if there was a factory cruise option, you'd be best off figuring out what parts you need to install that. Sometimes if you're really lucky the wiring harness already has the plugs you need; otherwise you'll need to source a junkyard harness or build one by hand to integrate it.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Stupid question:

What the gently caress does HEMI stand for these days?
I know back in the day it was hemispherical combustion chambers and they were apparently hard to make so they were "special".

But now its not so hard and tons of poo poo have them.
I seem to have gotten the impression it stands for High Energy Multispark Ignition or some poo poo.

Correct? Incorrect?

Just wondering, my buddy has a late model Durango and is all "hurr its awesome cause it gots da HEMI"!!

skooma512
Feb 8, 2012

You couldn't grok my race car, but you dug the roadside blur.
So my 2014 Honda Accord Sport with manual transmission has been progressively getting harder to start. It started as a no crank with no noise but trying again once would start it. Twice this week it's taken many tries to squeeze a start out of it, with normal starting in between these events. The battery is a year old.

Lights are on and everything stays powered. There are no side effects of a dead battery like deleted presets or traction control lights being on for a little while while the battery gets more juice.

This morning it wouldn't start.I tried a few more times with no noise. Eventually I got a click out of it. I managed to squeeze a start out of it. Today when it did finally start, I could hear a click with like 5-10 second interval until the car warmed up. I'm at work now with it pointing downhill on the roof where nobody really parks, so I can push start it to get home at least. I'm definitely getting it serviced tomorrow. There's a youtube video for it and it looks doable, but I also have a good mechanic nearby.


I ordered a refurb starter from the dealer (399 after core refund...), but I'm wondering if I'm even making the right move on that.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

wesleywillis posted:

Stupid question:

What the gently caress does HEMI stand for these days?
I know back in the day it was hemispherical combustion chambers and they were apparently hard to make so they were "special".

But now its not so hard and tons of poo poo have them.
I seem to have gotten the impression it stands for High Energy Multispark Ignition or some poo poo.

Correct? Incorrect?

Just wondering, my buddy has a late model Durango and is all "hurr its awesome cause it gots da HEMI"!!

You have it correct. HEMI is currently a brand name, the modern "HEMI" engines do not have hemispherical combustion chambers, nor do pretty much any other modern engines because we've moved on.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

It's just Mopar shamelessly mining their own muscle car heritage in the minds of baby boomers to sell trucks.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Do they still have 2 spark plugs per cylinder?

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

Cage posted:

Do they still have 2 spark plugs per cylinder?

Oh hell yes (on some engines).

:10bux::getin:

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

IOwnCalculus posted:

Aftermarket / universal systems do exist, but they're pretty involved to install and calibrate.

Ideally, if there was a factory cruise option, you'd be best off figuring out what parts you need to install that. Sometimes if you're really lucky the wiring harness already has the plugs you need; otherwise you'll need to source a junkyard harness or build one by hand to integrate it.
Thanks, that kind of what I was expecting. There was a model that had cruise control from the factory but these trucks are so popular, they're hard to find even in a junk yard, in my car experience.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
See if Toyota ever sold a kit for it. I added cruise to my '02 Focus with an impressively complete kit from the dealer parts counter.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

spf3million posted:

Here's a hopefully not too dumb question from a non-car guy: how hard would it be to add cruise control to a 6th gen (1989-1995) Toyota pickup 4wd, manual transmission, 4-cyl 22re engine?

I added an aftermarket one to my Miata and it wasn't actually that bad. You have a little vacuum thingy that attaches to the throttle, a wire that goes to the speedo somehow, another to the brake light sensor, another thingy for the clutch (I skipped this and just didn't clutch out without tapping the brakes first), and the flip some dip switches in the control box to set it for roughly the car's size and whatnot.

No idea if there are weird complications on the toyota specifically but I'm no master mechanic or anything and I did it over a couple hours.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
2011 Tundra 4WD that I might buy. Driver side of the truck has normal even tire wear on both tires. Both passenger side tires have fairly heavy wear on the outer edge and definitely less tread across the whole tire (compared to the driver side). What would cause one side of the truck to wear that differently?

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Couple of guesses.

Open differentials (like the tundra) will power or spin the right rear tire first. Traction control catches it pretty quick, but generally tires on the passenger side wear slightly faster. So maybe they rotated a wore out tire to the front. Tundras are also known for feathering the outside of the front tires a little bit.

Either that or massive, hidden frame damage.

Or lots of left hand curves.

Best to get that one inspected by someone with an alignment rack.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Comedy option: The front alignment is trashed and he rotated one of the fronts with the opposite rear and hoped somebody was dumb enough to only check one side

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Cage posted:

Do they still have 2 spark plugs per cylinder?

What muscle cars had dual plugs?

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

Colostomy Bag posted:

What muscle cars had dual plugs?

Do you count the Demon and Hellcat?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



skooma512 posted:

So my 2014 Honda Accord Sport with manual transmission has been progressively getting harder to start. It started as a no crank with no noise but trying again once would start it. Twice this week it's taken many tries to squeeze a start out of it, with normal starting in between these events. The battery is a year old.

Lights are on and everything stays powered. There are no side effects of a dead battery like deleted presets or traction control lights being on for a little while while the battery gets more juice.

This morning it wouldn't start.I tried a few more times with no noise. Eventually I got a click out of it. I managed to squeeze a start out of it. Today when it did finally start, I could hear a click with like 5-10 second interval until the car warmed up. I'm at work now with it pointing downhill on the roof where nobody really parks, so I can push start it to get home at least. I'm definitely getting it serviced tomorrow. There's a youtube video for it and it looks doable, but I also have a good mechanic nearby.


I ordered a refurb starter from the dealer (399 after core refund...), but I'm wondering if I'm even making the right move on that.

Your starter relay is failing. The starter itself is fine.

I do not know if the relay is separate from the starter motor on that car; if it is, that's all you need. If it's internal / integral to the starter motor, then: short of tearing the starter down & replacing that component, you're better off replacing the starter.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Feb 27, 2019

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Colostomy Bag posted:

What muscle cars had dual plugs?
The fake ones, I guess.

wikipedia posted:

The current-production "HEMI" engine heads are flatter and more complex than the 1950s–'70s Hemi V8 chamber. The combustion chambers are no longer truly hemispherical. It uses a coil-on-plug distributorless ignition system and two spark plugs per cylinder to shorten flame travel leading to more consistent combustion and reduced emissions.

Cage fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Feb 27, 2019

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009


Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.
I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra, automatic transmission. Sometimes, when accelerating from a stop, it'll hard shift and kind of lurch. It happens more often when I'm turning left. This does not happen all the time, and it does not appear to be connected to the weather/outside air temperature or anything. Doesn't matter if the gas tank is full, half, low, or any other level.

I recently got the dealership to flush the ATF and reset the transmission programming (or whatever it's called that "learns" your driving habits). All that did was lighten my money-having burden by $400.

What could be causing this?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Javid posted:

Comedy option: The front alignment is trashed and he rotated one of the fronts with the opposite rear and hoped somebody was dumb enough to only check one side

Other comedy option: previous owner is Dale Earnhardt Jr.

PainterofCrap posted:

Your starter relay is failing. The starter itself is fine.

I do not know if the relay is separate from the starter motor on that car; if it is, that's all you need. If it's internal / integral to the starter motor, then: short of tearing the starter down & replacing that component, you're better off replacing the starter.

You mean solenoid? Because Hondas have both a relay and a solenoid (the relay is for the solenoid).

But yeah, I agree, the solenoid is probably dying. And yes, it's attached to the starter motor on Hondas. Hard to be sure without a multimeter when it's acting up though.

Could also be a dead spot on the starter. My Altima did the same thing, I never got around to replacing the starter though. When it did get "stuck", it was obvious it was sucking down a ton of amps (lights got really dim, and i'd get some smoke from the battery cables if I held the key long enough).

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

rdb posted:

Couple of guesses.

Open differentials (like the tundra) will power or spin the right rear tire first. Traction control catches it pretty quick, but generally tires on the passenger side wear slightly faster. So maybe they rotated a wore out tire to the front. Tundras are also known for feathering the outside of the front tires a little bit.

Either that or massive, hidden frame damage.

Or lots of left hand curves.

Best to get that one inspected by someone with an alignment rack.

Javid posted:

Comedy option: The front alignment is trashed and he rotated one of the fronts with the opposite rear and hoped somebody was dumb enough to only check one side

Thanks for the input! An alignment rack would show frame damage, right? It's at a dealer and they're motivated to sell it since it's been on their lot for a while and I'm in an area of the country that typically only buys American. So if they can show me the alignment is good and if they replace the two tires, I shouldn't have anything to worry about other than maybe worn out suspension?

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

I'll be damned and feel stupid, never realized the modern day 'hemi' was twin spark.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Colostomy Bag posted:

I'll be damned and feel stupid, never realized the modern day 'hemi' was twin spark.

Apparently as of the late -00s engines, they also recommend that you replace them at a 30k interval. This made me realize that by 150k miles, all these trucks will have gone through 80 sparkplugs each.

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Every 30k? What are they running...Champion plugs?

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