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Sharkopath
May 27, 2009

Reaper is already thinned paint, right? That's what I thought at least.

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Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair
Gaining the patience to use like 5 layers of super-thinned Mephiston Red on my AdMech dudes is the biggest boon to my painting so far.

Skarsnik posted:

Fair enough, your description made it sound like you were picking up the paint from the pot with the brush

Am I not supposed to do this? I take it from the pot and put it on the wet palette with my brush :ohdear:

(It's pretty much the same process Duncan uses in the WHTV videos but with a tupperware palette.)

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!

Sharkopath posted:

Reaper is already thinned paint, right? That's what I thought at least.

I thought Reaper has a pre-thinned range and an un-thinned range, like Vallejo, but I'm not sure.

Inspector_666 posted:

Gaining the patience to use like 5 layers of super-thinned Mephiston Red on my AdMech dudes is the biggest boon to my painting so far.


Am I not supposed to do this? I take it from the pot and put it on the wet palette with my brush :ohdear:

(It's pretty much the same process Duncan uses in the WHTV videos but with a tupperware palette.)

You're not supposed to go straight from pot to mini. Though I rarely bother with a palette or thinning and it works fine.

Sharkopath
May 27, 2009

I think theres the HD paints line that just have tons of pigment and are the equivalent of citadels base paints, and then they have the bones paints but I dont know anything about whats up with them.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

The Moon Monster posted:

Depending on the consistency of the paint and the application you're using it for it's sometimes appropriate to not thin it anymore than you get from using a moist brush and a wet palette. Like if you're basecoating with red or something. That said if you're new I'd just thin everything until you get a good feel for paint consistency. Leaving brushstrokes or a blobby texture looks real bad.

I agree with this.

I generally thin as I go rather than try to add water to the palette and mix up a prethinned spot of paint on the palette to draw from.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon
I use airbrush paints so that they're pre-thinned.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Snow day today, so I had time to play with a few of the models I didn't care for and wanted to test things out on:



I've since put some Rhinox Hide on the blade, which I didn't do a good job on, but will try out the Troll Slayer in an attempt to show rust.





Same with the metal on this guy... however after I took this picture I attempted to edge highlight with Eshin Grey then Ulthuan Grey. The Ulthuan was wayyy too light, I don't like the way it turned out.

Pictures to follow.

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

A search on Google last night about paint thinning techniques brought me up this gem by Games Workshops community person, Duncan Rhodes. https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/14/my-first-model-part-1-our-own-duncan-rhodes/

I love the two people who run GWS Youtube channel. :3:

This was his first model:

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I almost find that hard to believe haha.

I wish I still had my original models. These are some of the oldest models I've posted on facebook though:



I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Here is my first ever model, that is from a month ago:



I am thinking about what I want to paint next, and I think I am going to go with the Skitarii Rangers and follow Warhammer TV's Battle Ready tutorial, because even that looks really great and I can make some of my own touches from there. The set includes 10 figures to paint and so I can experiment too.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




First man:

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Just a quick FYI regardng "biodegradable" paint strippers - just because something says it's biodegradable or non-toxic, does not mean it's safe to dump down the drain. Biodegradable means it will break down into safe components over a six month period in soil - wastewater treatment usually takes about 24 hours, and is then dumped into your local waterway. The chemicals in the cleaners we use doesn't have time to break down to be safe, let alone whatever chemical change the paint is undergoing.

Soak your models, scrub them off, and when your stripper becomes unusable, just let it sit in the container and evaporate. Then dump the sludge into the trash. Either that or put it into a sealed container and bring it to your landfill on hazmat day.

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

Sharkopath posted:

Reaper is already thinned paint, right? That's what I thought at least.

They have more flow improver in them than a lot of other ranges.

The HD paints aren't necessarily "thicker" than other paints, they just have more pigment per volume. Depending on the mix of water, acryllic medium, and flow improver, they aren't going to be noticeably thicker as paint than the non-HD versions.

The non-HD paints are going to be better for layering and getting good subtle color transitions, while the HD paints are better for getting your basecoat down. That's pretty much how to think of them.

I still generally thin my Reaper paints a fair bit.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
What are the go-to materials for water effects? I want to base some guys with a beachy theme similar to that one guy who does those awesome Tau. Is Vallejo Stillwater or Woodland scenics water effect workable enough that I can sculpt waves with it, or do I need both a still water effect and a non self-leveling one too?

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh
If you need depth, use a two-part clear resin/epoxy, but be sure you find one that doesn't yellow unless you want pisswater. ArtResin looks to be a good brand for this. If you need waves, use some glossy Mod Podge. Scale model people are probably the best guides on this, since lots of them do water effects for their railroads and such. Here's an example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEG3d0cMuv4&t=1615s

Count_Brass
Jul 16, 2009
Finished these guys off over the weekend.



I managed to get some really nice soft shades and highlights onto the skitarii using glazes:

Sharkopath
May 27, 2009

Count_Brass posted:

Finished these guys off over the weekend.



I managed to get some really nice soft shades and highlights onto the skitarii using glazes:



Thats good, holy smokes. What did you do for the gold on the marine? I have a lot of gold in my scheme so I could use that.

Count_Brass
Jul 16, 2009

Sharkopath posted:

Thats good, holy smokes. What did you do for the gold on the marine? I have a lot of gold in my scheme so I could use that.

Thanks! The gold is GW Retributor Armour washed with Reikland Fleshshade and highlighted with Scale75 Speed Metal (this is really bright so it’s easy to turn the gold silver if you use a little too much. I think I’ll probably try Thrash Metal on the next one.)

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

Mikey Purp posted:

What are the go-to materials for water effects? I want to base some guys with a beachy theme similar to that one guy who does those awesome Tau. Is Vallejo Stillwater or Woodland scenics water effect workable enough that I can sculpt waves with it, or do I need both a still water effect and a non self-leveling one too?

After doing some detective work I've found the forums poster with those beachy Tau so paging R0ckfish since they do not seem to have PMs.

R0ckfish posted:

Then over the summer I did some Tau:




I want to recreate the same technique for a seraphon army I am planning...what did you use to achieve this? It almost looks like the whole base has a layer of sand paste on it that you sculpted not only the beach but also the waves out of, and then you used a thin layer of some kind of water effect over the portion that was the ocean...is that getting close?

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



I said come in! posted:

A search on Google last night about paint thinning techniques brought me up this gem by Games Workshops community person, Duncan Rhodes. https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/14/my-first-model-part-1-our-own-duncan-rhodes/

I love the two people who run GWS Youtube channel. :3:

This was his first model:


This is the kind of stuff that really drives home the point of how lucky newbeginners like me are to have access to forums and Youtube. So many tutorials on basically any topic, the opportunity to have even the most esoteric questions answered within at most days. It cuts away years of awkward and messy bumbling, and lets you start off where many ended, skill-wise, back in the early days.

Preem Palver
Jul 5, 2007

JackMann posted:

They have more flow improver in them than a lot of other ranges.

The HD paints aren't necessarily "thicker" than other paints, they just have more pigment per volume. Depending on the mix of water, acryllic medium, and flow improver, they aren't going to be noticeably thicker as paint than the non-HD versions.

The non-HD paints are going to be better for layering and getting good subtle color transitions, while the HD paints are better for getting your basecoat down. That's pretty much how to think of them.

I still generally thin my Reaper paints a fair bit.

To add on to this, Reaper also discontinued the HD line a couple of months ago so I wouldn't plan on using them for too much painting or plan color schemes around using the HD paints as a base at this point.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!
I wanted to jump on the first man bandwagon but accidentally did it in the wrong thread, so cross posting from 40k:

The ultra blobbymarine is from the 3rd edition painting starter I think, and a metal cadian autocannon loader.

Next to a steel legion and imperial fist sergeant I was working on when I found them for comparison.


Check out that smooth recess shading on the eyes and mouth !


"You can't stand with us."

CapnAndy
Feb 27, 2004

Some teeth long for ripping, gleaming wet from black dog gums. So you keep your eyes closed at the end. You don't want to see such a mouth up close. before the bite, before its oblivion in the goring of your soft parts, the speckled lips will curl back in a whinny of excitement. You just know it.
So here's a weird esoteric question; is there any way to match color for color across different brands? Like, look up each color's hex value or something, so if I switch brands I don't suddenly switch colors? I'm colorblind so "just look at them" is truly not an option, I'll end up with an army that switches shades midway through and looks identical to me because blue and purple are the same goddamn color and Jason Momoa was wearing a grey suit at the Oscars last night, you fuckers can't fool me, there aren't that many colors, it's all one giant conspiracy and I'm on to you all.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!
There's a pretty comprehensive one here on Dakka that I've gotten some use from:

https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Vallejo also have their own I've had to use because they made the baffling decision not to use the same names for the normal and airbrush versions of their 'model' line of colours, and the above chart doesn't cover the model air line.

CapnAndy
Feb 27, 2004

Some teeth long for ripping, gleaming wet from black dog gums. So you keep your eyes closed at the end. You don't want to see such a mouth up close. before the bite, before its oblivion in the goring of your soft parts, the speckled lips will curl back in a whinny of excitement. You just know it.

IPA Regulations posted:

There's a pretty comprehensive one here on Dakka that I've gotten some use from:

https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Vallejo also have their own I've had to use because they made the baffling decision not to use the same names for the normal and airbrush versions of their 'model' line of colours, and the above chart doesn't cover the model air line.
That's more than I was hoping for, thank you. It even has hexes! Hexes are a godsend for me.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer

Slandible posted:

I painted a large spooky man, was a fun project to learn the new airbrush.



This poo poo is wild

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!

CapnAndy posted:

That's more than I was hoping for, thank you. It even has hexes! Hexes are a godsend for me.

Yeah I'm a little colourblind myself mostly on red/green (I think I only failed two or three of those dot tests but it was enough to disbuse me from my youthful ambitions to be a pilot) so I've leaned on that chart pretty heavily when buying paints, and was also super useful to see where my really old citadel paints fell in the new spectrum of names.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

Mikey Purp posted:

After doing some detective work I've found the forums poster with those beachy Tau so paging R0ckfish since they do not seem to have PMs.


I want to recreate the same technique for a seraphon army I am planning...what did you use to achieve this? It almost looks like the whole base has a layer of sand paste on it that you sculpted not only the beach but also the waves out of, and then you used a thin layer of some kind of water effect over the portion that was the ocean...is that getting close?

You are right on! Its vallejo grey sand which I sculpted into waves painted pallid wych -> agrax then for the water its vallejo still water with a touch of sotek in it, then to hid the fact that it is sand under the water I used a extremely overloaded drybrush on the crests.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer

Count_Brass posted:

Finished these guys off over the weekend.




this guy pops way more than a black model should and I mean that in the best way.

Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe

Count_Brass posted:

Finished these guys off over the weekend.



I managed to get some really nice soft shades and highlights onto the skitarii using glazes:



That marine is aces!

Friendly Fire
Dec 29, 2004
All my friends got me for my birthday was this stupid custom title. Fuck my friends.

IPA Regulations posted:

"You can't stand with us."


Hah, that Ultramarine is almost spot on for my first painted mini way back when I first got into the hobby in the 90's. So close I get nostalgic vibes from your pic.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



++++OLD BA ARMY LINK++++



Most of these are poorly lit and out of focus on large parts of the model but figured I'd jump on the train of old bad paint jobs by digging these pictures up (long since sold the minis).

I posted these other pics already in the 40K thread of some models I painted at the end of my previous mini painting time so about 5 years of self-taught improving [read: didn't learn much]. Some slight drybrushing, no thinning of paints, no washes.

Album Link







Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Count_Brass posted:

Finished these guys off over the weekend.



I managed to get some really nice soft shades and highlights onto the skitarii using glazes:



What black and grey did you use for that marine?

As mentioned, I tried to edge with a too-light grey today but decided to finish what I started. I think I can probably go back over it tomorrow with a light coat of Eschin and have it turn out okayish... I realized it's the first model I've painted in 17 years, so I'm tentatively labeling it a success.









Thoughts/ advice going forward?

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Count_Brass posted:

Finished these guys off over the weekend.



I managed to get some really nice soft shades and highlights onto the skitarii using glazes:



Your post was the inspiration I needed to purchase the Adeptus Mechanicus Skitarii Ranger 10 figure set. I am looking forward to having 10 figures to paint. :3:

tehsid
Dec 24, 2007

Nobility is sadly overrated.




Did this lad after a break since Christmas. Used the airbrush for the skin and tones and knocked it over in about two hours. Good fun!

Didn't bother with the mould lines as the PVC models are awful and I just want the starter box painted and done. Seriously, don't buy the Fallout Wasteland Warfare two player starter. The sculpts are ace but the casts are loving terrible.

A few examples I took when I got them in the following gallery.

http://imgur.com/gallery/XAcngHN

The Jumpoff
May 4, 2011
Your dad's in the Russian Mafia, that's the jumpoff!

Professor Shark posted:

What black and grey did you use for that marine?

As mentioned, I tried to edge with a too-light grey today but decided to finish what I started. I think I can probably go back over it tomorrow with a light coat of Eschin and have it turn out okayish... I realized it's the first model I've painted in 17 years, so I'm tentatively labeling it a success.









Thoughts/ advice going forward?

Honestly? I think the edge highlighting looks pretty good. I'm not one of the god-tier painters in the thread but i completely dig how that skeleton looks and for your first mini in a long time that looks awesome.

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.

Professor Shark posted:

Thoughts/ advice going forward?

Try hitting it with a black wash first, if you do't like that, then tone down the grey. I do an Eshin highlight on my Black Templars and it looks decent.

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through

Skarsnik posted:

Fair enough, your description made it sound like you were picking up the paint from the pot with the brush

It still seems unnecessary though, why not just thin once instead of having to do it with every new paint load on the brush?

How do you do it?

Count_Brass
Jul 16, 2009

Professor Shark posted:

What black and grey did you use for that marine?

The black is Scale75 Flat Black. I wouldn’t recommend this, it’s difficult to get the finish looking right, in hindsight I’d probably go with Vallejo Model Colour Black. The greys are GW Eshin Grey and Dawnstone for the armour and VMC Black Grey for the soft joints. Once done I used a coat of Vallejo matt varnish and also hit some areas with AK Ultra Matt varnish (this stuff is REALLY matt!) The varnish helps to stop the flat black from looking greyish.

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That Italian Guy
Jul 25, 2012

We need the equivalent of the shrimp = small pastry avatar, but for ambulances and their mysteries now.
The "these paints are thinner than I'm used to" convo we had the other day has given me ideas. I've tried to widen my horizons and try out some new techniques, namely using thin to super thin paint layers instead of the usual "basecoat > highlight > wash > hightlight" I've been using forever.

I've opened up a box of (very old) GW Chaos Warriors since they have a lot of different surfaces (leather, metal, fur) and some nice flat areas to try some new stuff on. I've started painting the first one yesterday evening one "area" at a time (IE: the shield, the right kneepad, the right boot) instead of doing my usual "work on every solution with the same colors at the same time".

I've tried building up a color transition on the shield with multiple blended layers directly on the mini and the result was not too exciting. The kneepad was more interesting: I've started from a black basecoat and worked up a few greyscale>white highlights, then covered everything with AP Blue Wash as if I was working with a transparency layer on photoshop and the result has been...quite alright. It was also a ton of fun.

This model is also going to be a test for 3 more techniques I've never used before:
A) Transitioning between 2 very different colors (like pink>green or something to that effect);
B) Using washes that are different from the base color (like using red wash on blue or something like that) and experiment with using complementary colors for basecoat > main color.
C) Shading and highlighting metallic paints.
This model is probably going to end looking like a colorful mix of different styles, but I guess it could be appropriate for a Chaos Undivided warrior. I could go with a more traditional "test different techniques on different models) but this way I should also be able to exercise my brush control a bit, since I haven't painted in a while and I'll have to be very precise if the pauldrons are totally different in color and style from the chestpiece.

Are there other popular techniques for painting fur or similar surfaces (IE: chainmail) aside from drybrush+wash?

I'll post some pictures this evening.

That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Feb 26, 2019

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