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mattfl posted:I'm going to attempt to print NinjaFlex tonight. Wish me luck! It'll be the first non pla filament I'll have put through my MK2S in my year + of owning it lol If it's anything like the TPU I've used, just don't print it on bare PEI, or it will rip a chunk off
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Feb 26, 2019 21:53
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BMan posted:If it's anything like the TPU I've used, just don't print it on bare PEI, or it will rip a chunk off Ya, I've heard to use glue stick. Good thing I kept the one that came with my mk2s in a drawer!
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Feb 26, 2019 22:42
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Sagebrush posted:If you have a printer that can probe the bed like that, you can compensate for it automatically in firmware. The printer will drive the z axis up and down to track the measured bed deflection. Yeah sadly not on Smoothie  There's linear interpolation from an [x,y,z] point grid, but it doesn't allow manual input for some reason. I have a spreadsheet of dial indicator readings in this format but no known way of putting them in the firmware, slicer, or model, without something like, a perl postprocessing script on the gcode file.Has anybody who said it wouldn't work, tested something like that, slicing and printing on a non-planar surface?
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Feb 27, 2019 01:10
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MrDesaude posted:On Prusa: Thanks for that, I'm really trying to wait until I get my bonus to buy, but I'm getting too excited by everything I read/hear about them. My kossel is nice, don't get me wrong. Granted, it was a $300 kit from kickstarter 3 years ago, and it's gotten probably $400 in upgrades/repairs so... yeah. Rails, 24v, smoothie, TMC2100's (2 sets as I put the first set in backwards when I disassembled the board for whatever reason), hotend, etc. I've really enjoyed my printer, and tinkering with it as well, but at this point it's pretty slow and I really don't want to spend days calibrating it when something breaks. Auto-leveling is something I've never implemented, god knows why.
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Feb 27, 2019 06:15
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Mofabio posted:Yeah sadly not on Smoothie
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Feb 27, 2019 07:03
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Trying to get Slic3r PE to work on my Replicator 2 with sailfish firmware. Since my boss won't fund replacements for our lovely warped build plates (or better yet good printers) I have to use rafts. Also I have to convert gcode to x3g with ReplicatorG which might cause issues. Can I directly control the layer height for rafts? Haven't found settings for this yet. Thicker rafts ive found help correct the warping.
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Feb 27, 2019 18:08
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So printing with Ninjaflex success! https://imgur.com/gallery/acxyLFh A little stringing that I can clean up but overall very impressed with this stuff. This is the second tire I printed, had to turn the speed down after the first one came out a little worse.
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Feb 27, 2019 18:45
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New Smart Extruder, still getting Error 65. I’m going to take the carriage face off and see if something is loose. Any other advice, aside from the dumster?
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Feb 27, 2019 18:54
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Have you guys had issues with dimensional accuracy? I'm finding that if I print a plug and a hole of the same dimension, say a 3mm square, they don't fit. In the following example, the dimension measured at 6.155mm comes out to ~6.4mm when printed, and the corresponding hole was a little under 6mm.
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Feb 27, 2019 19:02
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Under/oversize mating features by the following for these effects: 0.1mm for a press fit with vise/tools 0.2mm for a snug finger-tight fit 0.3mm for a loose fit that will generally hold themselves 0.4mm for a sliding fit Also, honestly, just lol @ 3 decimal points in the millimeters on an FDM printer. You're squeezing plastic through a hole that is (likely) 0.400mm wide, even bothering to specify dimensions down to 0.0x is useless.
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Feb 27, 2019 19:51
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Yeah, half-millimeters is about as far as I push it, with a .25 nozzle even.
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Feb 27, 2019 20:02
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Have you guys had issues with dimensional accuracy? I'm finding that if I print a plug and a hole of the same dimension, say a 3mm square, they don't fit. In the following example, the dimension measured at 6.155mm comes out to ~6.4mm when printed, and the corresponding hole was a little under 6mm. Measure your filament diameter, at several locations and average them. If it's oval, get both the major and minor diameters. Put the average into your slicer. Next, dial in your extrusion multiplier, print a cube in vase mode so you can measure the thickness of the wall. Set the attempted extrusion width to the size of your nozzle. After the print is complete, if the wall is too thick, reduce the multiplier, if too thin increase. This will require a few prints to nail down. Fortunately they don't need to be big, and vase mode makes it quick. This is a setting that changes with filaments. if your machine is good otherwise (stiff frame, right tension on belts, decent components, consistent filament, etc) that should get you the last .1mm. All that said, 3d printers tend to be very precise and repeatable, but not always accurate. As such if you need super fine fits you'll pretty much need to adjust the model to bring it to size.
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Feb 27, 2019 20:17
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Also, make sure the steps/mm are spot on. While not so important for E, because you can fudge it with the multiplier, X and Y ought to be correct. Print a large single layer square, like a cube in vase mode limited to 1 layer, then measure the outsides and subtract the average wall width from each axis.
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Feb 27, 2019 21:02
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Is there an additive manufacturing equivalent to the 'circle diamond square' mill test?
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Feb 27, 2019 21:40
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taqueso posted:Is there an additive manufacturing equivalent to the 'circle diamond square' mill test? If you are looking for an all in one accuracy test, surprisenly, it's that small boat you see all over the place; 3d Benchy  http://www.3dbenchy.com The boat was built so if your printer is dialed in correctly, a lot of different measurements should return very specific values. Here's a couple     These are just a few of the dimensions that can be measured. A lot more can be found @ http://www.3dbenchy.com/dimensions/
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Feb 27, 2019 21:55
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Nice, that's a lot more fun than a couple squares and circle.
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Feb 27, 2019 21:56
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Professor Shark posted:New Smart Extruder, still getting Error 65. Do you have any firearms and a Patreon? Create a video where you dump the equivalent cost of a Monoprice Mini V2 in ammunition into the Makerbot, then rake in the dough as 3D printer hobbyists around the world pay you for opportunity to watch that. That, or re-enact that scene from Office Space with some coworkers.
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Feb 27, 2019 22:22
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Combat Pretzel posted:Also, make sure the steps/mm are spot on. While not so important for E, because you can fudge it with the multiplier, X and Y ought to be correct. Print a large single layer square, like a cube in vase mode limited to 1 layer, then measure the outsides and subtract the average wall width from each axis. I used to recommend this, but I specifically do not anymore, and believe that (other than the e) that this is one that should be left as as close as ideal as possible. Because the belts are toothed they can't slip without losing a tooth, even if they're out of size. Mislocated and sized teeth will cause artifacts, but they still have the correct number so the average size will be correct. Either you have the right number of teeth or you don't. The belts themselves should are high enough precision that they shouldn't be the limiting factor, and this accuracy is effectively what you're tweaking. There is room to tweak here, there is no perfect belt, but it should be one of the last things to adjust. The problem with doing it if your printer isn't dialed in is that it's easy to wind up with a printer that's compensating for the flaws in for a specific size, that then causes the printer to be off different amounts at different at different sizes. Seeing that complex parts will have features of all sizes it's problem, because each feature will be off by different amounts. I completely disagree with the idea of subtracting the width of the wall. The slicer (well silc3r at least, but I'd expect the same from cura, simplify etc) is trying to produce a shape of that size on it's outer skin, not the center of the wall. On the other hand I think the E axis is more important because it's much harder to measure where the filament will actually engage with the gripper from first principals. It's also much easier to get good data that's independent of outside factors. Extrusion multiplier can be used to compensate for bad E axis, but since it represents different things it will be used for different things. For example e axis steps will directly affect retraction, and extrusion multiplier won't.
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Feb 27, 2019 22:47
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The issue is more Chinesium tolerances on the pulleys, specifically diameter. Cheap pulleys are extruded instead of machined, and if the die is worn out, you might get a slightly different diameter.
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Feb 27, 2019 22:58
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Combat Pretzel posted:The issue is more Chinesium tolerances on the pulleys, specifically diameter. Cheap pulleys are extruded instead of machined, and if the die is worn out, you might get a slightly different diameter. the pulleys are toothed
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Feb 27, 2019 23:00
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Right. What was I thinking. lovely pulleys (and/or belts) still can give you grief, tho. I had Z ribbing because terrible Z belts that didn't entirely fit the pulleys profile. All this poo poo with there apparently being subtle differences between 2GT and GT2 (one is circular and one curvilinear, forgot which is which), and some Chinese suppliers mixing 2GT and MXL pulleys.
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Feb 27, 2019 23:05
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EVIL Gibson posted:If you are looking for an all in one accuracy test, surprisenly, it's that small boat you see all over the place; 3d Benchy And if you print two, the smoke stack can just fit into the cargo hold square if not over extruded, and they'll lock together.
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Feb 27, 2019 23:44
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"people" posted:suggestions Whew, that's a lot to work with. I'll dig into those suggestions this weekend and see if I can't dial it in a bit. (And I'm not trying to hit three decimal places of accuracy, that's just how long that particular dimension happens to be when the sides are set to 4mm.)
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Feb 28, 2019 00:42
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"Lets do a test print" "Wait....this is working...I'll let it go" I am now convinced that the gift of my previous printer was an act of aggression by one of my oldest friends. I told him this and he laughed. Most expensive gift to receive ever.
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Feb 28, 2019 02:36
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That's why i bought my friend an Ender3 for Christmas. to make up for the previous printer I'd bought him
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Feb 28, 2019 04:17
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Motronic posted:dumping every bearing into alcohol to get the chinese septic honey out of them and re-pack with good grease i'm expecting delivery of a prusa mk3 friday. what grease did you re-pack with, and how (did you print out a nozzle to help)? i don't have access to a printer yet; would this still be do-able? edit: vvvvvv NeurosisHead posted:I used white lithium grease, and the tube tip was already the right size to fit into the bearing so no tip needed. thanks! nine16thsdago fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Feb 28, 2019 |
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Feb 28, 2019 04:55
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nine16thsdago posted:i'm expecting delivery of a prusa mk3 friday. what grease did you re-pack with, and how (did you print out a nozzle to help)? i don't have access to a printer yet; would this still be do-able? I used white lithium grease, and the tube tip was already the right size to fit into the bearing so no tip needed.
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Feb 28, 2019 05:36
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Golluk posted:And if you print two, the smoke stack can just fit into the cargo hold square if not over extruded, and they'll lock together. Also the overhang under the bow gives you an indicator of your machine's overhang performance (especially the quality of your part cooling solution) and the doorways, windows, and ceiling of the cabin give indicators of bridging capacity. It's a neat little part.
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Feb 28, 2019 06:40
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Professor Shark posted:New Smart Extruder, still getting Error 65. Try and sell it and use the money for any other printer? My company’s first printer was a cubex trio. Lovely looking. In reality it was an expensive croc of poo poo and has gathered dust since about a month after it was bought. Recognise the mistake and move on, your blood pressure will thank you.
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Feb 28, 2019 08:45
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Professor Shark posted:New Smart Extruder, still getting Error 65. Good luck, they're really lovely to work on. We used to take broken makerbots as trade ins because the amount of work and time required to repair them would often exceed the price of a new printer.
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Feb 28, 2019 12:09
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Speaking of Makerbots: My lab inherited an old Makerbot Replicator 2. Keep or throw away/use as a parts donor for other projects?
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Feb 28, 2019 12:16
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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The Replicator 2 is easy enough to work on, it's everything from the smart extruder introduction on that's hot garbage.
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Feb 28, 2019 12:25
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I just found out about Nema 8 tiny little stepper motors and I'm considering using them to build a tinyboi that can do a ~50x50x50 print. Do they have any torque whatsoever? I figured they just didnt get this small otherwise people would be using them in direct drive extruders, so when I saw them I was kind of surprised. https://www.pololu.com/product/1204 And what's the smallest control board you can get? I'm using a RAMPS 1.2 board at home that has never been upgraded from the stock firmware so I don't need the most modern or fancy features, just something in a small package so the control box isn't as big as the entire printer.
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Feb 28, 2019 12:34
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Mofabio posted:Yeah sadly not on Smoothie (byte)Grid size X (e.g. 09 for 9x9 grid) OPTIONAL (byte)Grid size Y if not same as X. Both X and Y dimensions must match config. (float)Grid X max (e.g. 200.0f / 0x00004843 for 200mm X) (float)Grid Y max Followed by a float value for the bed height in mm for each of the grid size positions (e.g. 81 floats for a 9x9 grid) Should be easy enough to write a quick script to convert your dial readings to hex floats and save them to a file. Just make sure the grid configured in smoothie ends up on the same positions you took your X,Y readings. Then put the cartesian.grid file on the smoothie sd card and use M375 to load it. M375.1 to view it. Obviously you need to enable the cartesian grid leveling strategy in your config as well. But, yeah, I'm with you on the "sadly not on Smoothie " train. It started out so strong but I guess it didn't pick up enough steam to get other developers working on it so it has fallen behind now.
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Feb 28, 2019 13:52
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nine16thsdago posted:i'm expecting delivery of a prusa mk3 friday. what grease did you re-pack with, and how (did you print out a nozzle to help)? i don't have access to a printer yet; would this still be do-able? I used synthetic grease - specifically Super Lube because I have that around for other stuff. Any decent clean light grease that you can continue to get in the future (so you aren't mixing lubricants) should be fine. I simply shot grease into each bearing out of the tube while it was sitting on a paper towel and used an appropriate sized dowel to pack it by holding them down on the towel while "ramming" the dowel through. In my case that happened to be a spudger (for opening phones/plastic parts) that had a perfect sized handle.
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Feb 28, 2019 15:26
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Motronic posted:In my case that happened to be a spudger (for opening phones/plastic parts) that had a perfect sized handle. out of curiosity, could you use the rod in place of the dowel you mentioned? i have a pile of spudgers/tools in any case. thanks!
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Feb 28, 2019 16:01
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nine16thsdago posted:out of curiosity, could you use the rod in place of the dowel you mentioned? i have a pile of spudgers/tools in any case. thanks! I'd avoid using the rod because it's just too easy to knock the bearings out with it - the ends are flat cut. They should have been chamfered in my opinion, but that's an additional operation and cost for something the you're only assembling once (hopefully) and isn't a problem if you take a bit of care when doing it.
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Feb 28, 2019 16:17
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suck my woke dick posted:Speaking of Makerbots: Isn't the Rep2 what Flashforge cloned with decent success?
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Feb 28, 2019 16:52
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Is there another thread for discussing 3D modeling software with regards to 3D printing? I'm trying to decide which SW I want to learn. I know Fusion 360 is popular, but beyond that, I don't know where to begin.
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Feb 28, 2019 17:38
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suck my woke dick posted:Speaking of Makerbots: They're OK. Definitely put Sailfish Firmware on it for improved everything. Like I said above I haven't had luck using Slic3r PE with it but the old Maketbot Desktop app works fine. Lots of hardware modifications available from the community.
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Feb 28, 2019 17:40
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