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Best Crew! Thanks for the comments guys  I guess I need to read about Minotaurs now.
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Mar 1, 2019 00:13
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I tried making a wet palette following the instructions in this video youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM and I'm not having much luck. No matter how little water I use, the paint separates almost immediately, it never stays pooled. Leaving it overnight makes it even worse. Is this just a matter of really carefully dialing in the amount of water? I'm also trying a GW dry paint, and its... crumbly? I get that its much thicker than normal paints, but I'm having a hard time getting it into the bristles. I've tried 2 pots from 2 different stores (trying to avoid a bad batch) and they seem similar. Any amount of dry brushing it onto an actual miniature seems to leave powder/crumbs.
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Mar 1, 2019 01:27
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BoneMonkey posted:I'm trying on a space marine for size, I ended up making up the paint scheme because I couldn't find a chapter I 100% liked. I might paint the gun red to bring things in a bit more, but I love the scheme. What will their logo be?
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Mar 1, 2019 01:34
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a witch posted:I tried making a wet palette following the instructions in this video youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM and I'm not having much luck. No matter how little water I use, the paint separates almost immediately, it never stays pooled. Leaving it overnight makes it even worse. Is this just a matter of really carefully dialing in the amount of water? They're supposed to look like that, you are likely using too much on the bristles. There really should be almost nothing on there.
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Mar 1, 2019 02:20
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Zuul the Cat posted:The Darkoth Chieftain challenge made me want to paint the Godsworn Hunt models from Warhammer: Underworlds to use as a Skirmish Warband. Whaaaat game or collection is this? Edit: ugh it's right in the post, sorry, tired and dumb. Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 03:10
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Whaaaat game or collection is this? The four dude/ttes are from the nightvault darkoath warband (the godsworn hunt) and the guy with the sword leading is a darkoath chieftain, all are GW.
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Mar 1, 2019 03:25
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Whaaaat game or collection is this? He says it in the first sentence of the post https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/WH-Underworlds-Godsworn-Hunt-ENG-2019 but it's these dudes.
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Mar 1, 2019 03:26
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Just did some quick skaven, unfortunately this taught me that I really need to improve my lighting setup beyond a piece of printer paper and a desk lamp for more contrast options. 
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Mar 1, 2019 04:12
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They look great!
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Mar 1, 2019 04:29
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R0ckfish posted:Just did some quick skaven, unfortunately this taught me that I really need to improve my lighting setup beyond a piece of printer paper and a desk lamp for more contrast options. Beautiful! For lighting, I really want to get a Photo Light Box, I have been thinking about this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2OH2D3/?coliid=I1D58C0G4RWLWF&colid=21XDLHC3RLL2&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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Mar 1, 2019 04:53
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Finally got round to finishing a nice, leisurely-painted centrepiece model for my trolls;    Probably shouldn't have needed most of the month for to to be fair; a good week was lost faffing around with skin tones, and the sheer volume of greebles in the net took ages to get right - kept having to go back and paint bits I'd missed. Oh-so-very proud of the eyes though - turns out they're easy when they're around 5mm across. 
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Mar 1, 2019 08:15
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I might paint the gun red to bring things in a bit more, but I love the scheme. What will their logo be? Thanks dude, yeah i think you might be right about the gun, I'll give it a go. As for the logo, I'm not sure, anyone got any ideas? Anyone got any ideas for a name for the chapter? I'm terrible at names.
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Mar 1, 2019 08:26
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BoneMonkey posted:Thanks dude, yeah i think you might be right about the gun, I'll give it a go. As for the logo, I'm not sure, anyone got any ideas? Crimson Ghosts Brazen Ghosts Scorched Marines Scorched Angels
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Mar 1, 2019 11:32
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I said come in! posted:Thank you, this morning I went back to the figure I painted and it actually doesn't look bad at all now that all of the paint is dried. I got frustrated because I was having trouble with gluing the pieces together. The Skitarii Ranger/Vanguard figures are a pain in the rear end to assemble. I am going to see if my local store offers help with painting/assembly and if they do any painting sessions. My local Games Workshop is a good place to look too. Are you pinning difficult joins because you should always be pinning. Stolen from the OP quote:Pinning A pin vice is a really handy modelling tool and they aren't expensive. Also, adding a tiny bit of green stuff(or other modelling putty) to particularly difficult joins can help hold the join in place in combination with the pin while the glue dries.
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Mar 1, 2019 11:50
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Crimson Ghosts Oh poo poo! I like all of these. Crimson Ghosts Im leaning towards, but it's hard to choose.
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Mar 1, 2019 12:54
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BoneMonkey posted:Oh poo poo! I like all of these. That was the first one I came up with and is probably my favorite.
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Mar 1, 2019 13:59
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Friendly Fire posted:Are you pinning difficult joins because you should always be pinning. You're not wrong in that pinning is awesome. That box has some fiddly rear end bits though when it comes to joining the arms together while trying to glue them to the body. I've been putting together models off and on for years and I still hate putting those dudes together.
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Mar 1, 2019 14:29
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As mentioned before, I'm going through this whole thread cause it's awesome, and I just ran into Bulbasaur's undertone tutorial. For my next model I'll try out some of what's discussed in it and I'll try to use a combination of techniques I've never used before: A) I'll basecoat white (I think I've basecoated black 99% of what I've painted) and I'll try to use a wash on top of it to create an udertone; B) I'll think about the palette and build it / copy it in advance, instead of making it up as I go, like I would normally do; C) I'll keep working with thin and super thin paints. I've been confronting my latest model with what good painters in the thread produce and I've noticed that, while the effect is decent at a distance, my traits are way less clean and clear when zoomed in - lots of "squiggly" or uneven lines. Being used to work with "thicker" paints than layers and glazes in the past, I guess I have not exercise my brush control too much, so I'll keep working on that. I still want to try and blend two separate colors, but I'm not sure I'll be able to incorporate that in this model. Not sure if this kind of post would be more in line with the oath thread? I've been trying to put my thoughts black on white to be able to get feedback during the WIPs and to build some kind of "diary" to keep my attempts at improving more focused. I can move it over to the other thread if I'm making GBS threads up the place, though EDIT: a qq for Bulbasaur! What website are you using to set up the palette examples? These, just to be clear: 
That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 14:46
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Dunno if it’s the same, but I use Adobe Color CC. e: And this is the mini painting thread, post everything and anything, don’t feel constrained to the oath thread, or the weirdly redundant Other painting thread.
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Mar 1, 2019 15:41
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ijyt posted:Dunno if it’s the same, but I use Adobe Color CC. The progress thread was intended as a way to encourage folks to post about models and show progress without worrying about oaths or whatnot. This thread seems to be more about techniques, etc. I'm not sure the other thread is necessary but folks still use it.
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Mar 1, 2019 15:46
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a witch posted:I tried making a wet palette following the instructions in this video youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM and I'm not having much luck. No matter how little water I use, the paint separates almost immediately, it never stays pooled. Leaving it overnight makes it even worse. Is this just a matter of really carefully dialing in the amount of water? Some paints separate very quickly - you'll have to periodically mix the pant with your brush on the palette. Also, make sure your paints are shaken very well in the pot. Add a glass or hematite bead to the pot to help with agitating the paints.
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Mar 1, 2019 16:02
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Crimson Ghosts Hell’s Satan’s Christ Punchers
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Mar 1, 2019 17:42
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Dr. Phildo posted:Hell’s Satan’s The Good Bad Guys The Bad Good Guys Not chaos, but still p. dangerous IMO guys
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Mar 1, 2019 19:27
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BoneMonkey posted:I'm trying on a space marine for size, I ended up making up the paint scheme because I couldn't find a chapter I 100% liked. I proudly present the fourth dude I've ever painted, one of the ones who was the recipient of the really bad painting night I ranted about last time. It shows itself most clearly on the left shoulder, I really lost the raised edge there.     So, the ink wash obviously got away from me on this one. (Again, for those who remember my skeleton monster.) I don't think the painting mishaps did me any favors because there were definitely weird blotch points that just showed up and wouldn't go away, but some of the mess was definitely created in the ink wash stage. In particular, I loved how the oath paper came out when the painting was done, the wax was bright scarlet and the oath paper looked parchment-y and I'd even gotten some black lines on there that didn't look like writing, they looked like lines, but at least they could credibly represent writing. And then the ink touched it. I guess this dude's been in an explosion or something, he looks a bit scorched overall. Also my first time with transfers and I'm pleased enough there. Obviously some damage to them, because I think the advice to score them eight ways like an asterisk (so that they conform to curved surfaces better) that I saw online is... really dumb and not helpful? It just ended up cutting pieces off. I'd rather intentionally make one deep cut on a clear area and let it fold over itself there. Also, on his helmet -- according to the box art and manual, these dudes are supposed to have black detailing on their mouths to bring out the teeth-and-skull effect more, like this: (these are the dudes I got, so this is what I was trying for)  I just couldn't frigging get it. I tried painting black lines over the white and I couldn't get lines that fiddly and detailed -- they came out too thick, crooked, and/or in the wrong places so I couldn't have the right amount of lines. I tried painting the whole mouth black and then coming back in with white and ended up with... what you see there, because that didn't work either and I gave up. I kinda loved him after the painting was done (the contrast between his chestplate and whatever that under-layer is on his midsection looked so damned good before the ink hit it), thought it was a disaster after the ink wash, and then the varnish and transfers did a lot to save the day. Anyway, I am desperate for comments and especially critiques, so please tell me what you think and what I should be focusing on doing better. I leave you with fourth guy ever next to first guy ever, because progress is good.  "I'm brighter." "My edges are cleaner." "I'm so much more detailed than you." "Yeah, well, my chest emblem is cooler." "...gently caress you, man."
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Mar 1, 2019 19:59
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CapnAndy posted:
Main thing would be to use the wash like paint. Brush the wash along the recesses only, then come back with your blue and tidy up any tide marks it leaves. I've made the mistake of using wash all over power armor and you just have to clean it up with the base color. The wash should just come off your brush and hug into the deepest part. If you have any medium it won't hurt to thin it down some too. This could also be the way to get the black lines in the face/ teeth. Keep at it, a lot of this just takes practice. E: Also, don't dip your brush in the pot then go immediately to model. Wipe off excess on something first. Better off having too little than too much. Skails fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 20:50
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I'd also add that you need to be thinning your paints a lot more. This is probably one of the hardest things to get a feel for when you are first starting out but try to get it thinned so that you can easily pull it out on your palette without feeling much resistance, but not so thin that it flows across the palette on its own. And when base coating, don't shoot for total coverage in one coat. It may feel like you barely put any paint on the model after the first coat, but you'll be surprised at how much more coverage the second coat provides. In the same vein, for fine details like the skull mask, it might seem counter-intuitive but it's actually way easier to make a fine line with a very small amount of thinned down paint on the brush than it is with a glob of paint right out of the pot. If you want to make it even easier, pick up some flow improver and dab your brush in it each time before putting paint on the brush (and remember, only load a small amount of paint!). It will basically transform your brush into a super fine fountain pen. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 21:31
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Posting this WIP cause I have no idea on how to proceed :/ First and foremost I've basecoated this model with AP White - since the Vallejo Primer I've ordered is not here yet - and A) I'm not used to basecoating white and B) This vat is super chalky.  Off to a bad start <.< I've used a few washes to give some weird undertones to the colors I'm going to use. This is going to be a Nurgle CW: I've washed purple for the greens, red for the browns&yellows and soft tone for the bones. I've tried using blue for the coat, but I may have also gone brown instead.  This is where I am atm and I'm not sure how to tie this in. My original idea was to do some kind of yellowish/golden color for the medallion, belt buckle and the symbol on the shield, but using paints this thin I'm unable to get a good color out of the mix. I'll probably end up doing a lot of mudding up, dirt and rust on the shield, but I don't think this will work as well for the smaller details. I like the way the purple is coming out from under the green, altough it's not very clear from the pics.  Any input is really appreciated! I think a lot of my works feel kinda flat since I use too much white for the highlights...which colors should I use in this case? That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 21:42
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CapnAndy posted:
All I'd worry about are the two big things all new painters have to worry about, thinning your paints and brush control. Figuring out how thin your paints need to be and how much paint to load onto the brush should give you a much smoother finish in the future. I still struggle with that though, honestly. If I'm unsure of the thickness I paint my thumbnail a little bit and correct from there. I also unload excess paint from my brush to my thumb because I'm an animal. Also as paint dries it can clump up if you keep messing with it, so keep that in mind. As for the white face masks, painting white up from black can be tricky. Personally I would have based it grey, thinly layered on some very light grey, then using a small brush carefully place shade in the crevices of the teeth until it was dark enough. Punkinhead fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 21:54
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That Italian Guy posted:As mentioned before, I'm going through this whole thread cause it's awesome, and I just ran into Bulbasaur's undertone tutorial. Hey man, glad that this post was useful for you. If you're set on pushing yourself and doing something new, you should look up my zenithal priming tutorial in the OP of this thread. Imagine that the primer creates your areas of light and dark. Then use washes or glazes over the top. The more you layer the more depth of color you will create. So for example, if you want to paint red, you can glaze the deep shadows with a purple, then wash the mid tones and purple with a green, and then switch to a dark red, then a mid tone red, and finally a highlight. Don't put your layers over the entire model, kinda start in the recesses and work outwards. Your final highlight wash should go over the brightest white highlight. It'll take a few attempts to get the hang of it, but its fast and fun. As for my palette examples... I just used photoshop- imported a picture and then sampled the colors. You could probably do the same in gimp.
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Mar 1, 2019 22:10
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Oh my good god straight lines are hard to paint on shoulder pads! How do you guys do this poo poo! I also tried out designing an emblem, I started with the Call of duty Ghosts skull and then fiddled from there till it was something I could call my own. What do you guys think?   Is it too cliche? Also sorry for the phone pics again, I have a cheap light box thing coming so that should help.
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Mar 1, 2019 22:58
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It doesn't matter if it's a cliché if it's bad-rear end! Your marines look spiffy as hell, and make me want to buy a box of 'em!
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Mar 1, 2019 23:05
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Those pauldrons own bones. Question, is there a reliable way to get paint off part of a resin model without removing the piece and purplestuffing it? Got some dudes I'm happy with except for one part on each and they're second hand plastic glued together.
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Mar 1, 2019 23:10
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Those pauldrons own bones. Isopropyl alcohol. Shouldn't hurt the resin, but I guess test it if you can.
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Mar 1, 2019 23:27
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BoneMonkey posted:Oh my good god straight lines are hard to paint on shoulder pads! How do you guys do this poo poo! Did you free hand that?
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Mar 1, 2019 23:37
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yeah?
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Mar 1, 2019 23:39
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BoneMonkey posted:yeah? Looks phenomenal.
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Mar 1, 2019 23:49
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Thanks You a fluff person beer? if you are, mind if I pick your brains about it?
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Mar 1, 2019 23:49
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BoneMonkey posted:Thanks Sure. Shoot me a PM.
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Mar 2, 2019 00:46
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Mikey Purp posted:I'd also add that you need to be thinning your paints a lot more.
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Mar 2, 2019 00:58
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BoneMonkey posted:Oh my good god straight lines are hard to paint on shoulder pads! How do you guys do this poo poo! This isn't cliche at all my man. This is outstanding.
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Mar 2, 2019 01:15
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