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I had already replaced the cables that run from the splitter to each wheel in 2016. The splitter and short run to the lever are still original, but theres not much cable there to stretch.
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Feb 24, 2019 23:47
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BlackMK4 posted:I will be pulling the oil pan tomorrow to verify there is no foil in the sump or oil pickup, along with scratching the sneaking suspicion that my oil baffle vibrates against my oil pan. I confirmed my theory today, I am pretty irritated.    
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Feb 24, 2019 23:55
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Not my own ride, but my roomate's this time. His 99 B5 Passat decided it didn't like something the PRNDL shifter was doing at some point two weeks ago and decided to put the car permanently in limp mode, cutting out 5th gear entirely and some other handicaps. This was what the shifter selection looked like so I knew something was definitely off. Being there's no VW dealers here for miles I managed to pick up an OBD2 -> USB cable for  and dig through the VAGCOM software to clear it up, but it meant having to take his oil burning, fluid dumping, 2/4 taped closed window'd car to work so I could do it over my lunch break. I fumbled through it and was doing some tests with the program when I look up and the code had been cleared! A test drive didn't bring it back even with me rowing through all of the auto's positions, so I guess it was a one time thing.I'm putting together the OP post for a thread here for my car projects, but I think most of the thread is going to be me working on his at this point... The best worst part was while putting things away in the parking lot I noticed one of the vents was pointing full open while the direction wheel said it was supposed to be full closed. I tried turning it open and *Crack* a single vent broke   I hate this car so much Luxrage fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 00:26
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2008 Cobalt, 341xxx km losing coolant, but i'm not sure where i've topped the coolant up exactly two times in owning this car for more than six years, both times in the last 12 months i noticed it looked low the other day so i filled it back up to the full mark on the overflow (still had the coolant in the trunk), and now it's low again. i did a fairly thorough once over at all the coolant hoses, the rad, and really anything and everything in the engine bay that looked remotely like a coolant line (have a valvecover leak, but that's not really overly concerning at the moment) no obvious signs of leakage pulled the plugs to see what they looked like; all good there, no signs of coolant there either checked the dipstick/fill point on the valvecover; no signs of milkshake any ideas? no change in mileage or performance, no white smoke, no sweet smell of antifreeze in the interior from the heater core or anything
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Feb 25, 2019 01:21
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Is your radiator metal+plastic? I've read that those (supposedly) leak a tiny amount of coolant because the materials expand at different rates.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:27
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i do believe it is, but the fact that has only cropped up now leads me to believe that's more than likely not the culprit... but who knows
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Feb 25, 2019 02:00
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brand engager posted:Got my parking brake working  This is actually an auto adjusting brake and your issue may lie with this part. That's a ratchet mechanism and if the teeth are worn or the pawl is worn it won't work. It's supposed to ratchet and take up the free space when the pads wear when you hit the brakes in reverse. If it isn't auto adjusting correctly your brake pedal will be mushy and your hand brake won't work. It won't work because there's too much slack to take up. Too much grease on the adjustment ratchet can also cause it to slip, chances are you just need to replace it, though. Ford wasn't the only company to use this mechanism and they pretty much suck across the board. Sometimes you can get it to adjust if you back up and really slam on the brakes.
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Feb 25, 2019 03:03
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surivdaoreht posted:i do believe it is, but the fact that has only cropped up now leads me to believe that's more than likely not the culprit... but who knows Plastic radiators can sometimes only leak under pressure / under temperature. I had a Ranger radiator fail like that where it was really hard to see the actual leak, and it wasn't even a spot that was hidden from view by anything else.
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Feb 25, 2019 03:08
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Installed some JDM ITR pistons on a set of GSR rods for the new racecar motor.   
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Feb 25, 2019 03:11
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I redid my headliner today.   
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Feb 25, 2019 03:15
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surivdaoreht posted:i do believe it is, but the fact that has only cropped up now leads me to believe that's more than likely not the culprit... but who knows it is always, without a shadow of doubt, going to be leaking from where the plastic and metal parts of the radiator join. I have never seen a plastic/metal radiator fail any other way.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:18
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You've never seen the plastic up and split? That's how I've had a few of them fail. Usually at the neck.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:54
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Some idiot (me) didn't re-torque the lug nuts on my girfriend's Element after putting on the aluminum wheels with the snow tires on them. End result? Loosened lug nuts, front passenger side to the point one wheel stud sheered off and lost another lug nut. There turned out to be enough clearance to knock out the sheered lug without taking off the wheel hub:  However, there wasn't quite enough clearance due to the dust shield and knuckle to get the new stud in. A little work with the grinder on both the dust shield/knuckle and the new stud gave enough clearance:   I walked the new stud in by using a 19mm socket and tightening the lug nut with the impact wrench. There was enough clearance between the OD of the lug nut and ID of the 19mm socket that it turned freely.  
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Feb 25, 2019 16:05
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brand engager posted:Got the new tie rods and ends on yesterday, and I'm back at the firestone to get the front aligned again. I like those tie rod end boots. They look more durable then the traditional cone-ish ones.
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Feb 25, 2019 20:03
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BlackMK4 posted:I confirmed my theory today, I am pretty irritated. So hopefully you just need to trim back the baffle a bit? No actual damage other than scuff marks? chrisgt posted:
I've never seen that style before. Interesting. God willing, I'll never have another drum brake car, but interesting to know. STR posted:You've never seen the plastic up and split? The one in our KIA cracked at the neck a year or so ago. It was tough to spot unless hot. I thought the cap was leaking.
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Feb 28, 2019 23:44
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Darchangel posted:So hopefully you just need to trim back the baffle a bit? No actual damage other than scuff marks? I had a Triumph Daytona 675 that seized the motor on track at speed from something similar, so you can imagine how I feel
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Feb 28, 2019 23:47
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toplitzin posted:I redid my headliner today. So badass. How is it at night?
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Mar 1, 2019 00:41
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BlackMK4 posted:The long, horizontal line is more than rub marks. It went through the smooth casting surface and into the granular aluminum, which ended up in the motor. Oh, dang. That could suck.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So badass. Just peachy. Not too loud or bright. It blends right into the background once you're in the car. The only sticking point is getting the sun visor clips back in. I figured I'll order some new ones off eBay for ten bucks and see if those will install any better. I have enough leftover to think about doing the door cards.
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Mar 2, 2019 15:21
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BlackMK4 posted:The long, horizontal line is more than rub marks. It went through the smooth casting surface and into the granular aluminum, which ended up in the motor. Did you check the oil filter/vtec solenoid filter for any debris? Or is this post mortem on an already failed motor? (K-swap?)
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Mar 2, 2019 15:50
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PaintVagrant posted:Did you check the oil filter/vtec solenoid filter for any debris? Or is this post mortem on an already failed motor? There is a longer story behind this, but the motor SEEMS fine. I replaced the VTEC solenoid gasket a couple months ago and there was no debris in it, it was the original gasket. But yes, K24A2 swap or sending a block to InlinePro for a F24 is on the table for the future since I want to make about 250-260whp and not go FI. The F24 route is surprisingly a couple grand cheaper, all said and done.
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Mar 2, 2019 16:21
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Swapped my center dash gauges for those from a GT350. The regular Mustang GT performance pack gets oil pressure and vacuum. Who the hell needs a vacuum gauge? The Ecoboost's get vacuum/boost which makes sense but vacuum only is kind of silly. GT350 gets oil pressure and oil temp. It's a plug and play swap. Only downside is you can't change the color, they're always white, but I leave my other gauges set to white anyway so it doesn't bother me. Before:  Side by side, the bezels on the GT350 gauges are darker, so I swapped mine over.  Installed:  
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Mar 2, 2019 18:56
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Pre-season maintenance. Checked over a few things and replaced stupid Ti retainers with OEM honda.       
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Mar 2, 2019 23:32
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Primed and installed tailgate. Going to leave it in gray primer until I get the whole body either resprayed or wrapped. Haven't decided on which.  Also got plates, so I can drive it on the road legally now. Yay! 
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Mar 3, 2019 01:49
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Mustache Ride posted:Primed and installed tailgate. Going to leave it in gray primer until I get the whole body either resprayed or wrapped. Haven't decided on which. Hell yeah that owns! Today I tore apart the 93 Honda Street we just got:  I really like tearing these vans down like this because they are so small and it is so easy, after you take it all out just use the air compressor to blast all the garbage away. This one had to be owned by some sort of woodworker as there was a ton of sawdust in all the crevices and underneath the center console. Not a spec of rust or corrosion anywhere, just the same 'never-cleaned-nor-washed-ever' condition lots of them arrive in. The headliner is as best as its going to look because while it did clean up there is little I can do about the corners of 2x4s that have scratched the fabric. Seats all need a steam and wash, but other than that it will be ready for sale real soon. We have the Delica all ready for sale (Delicas are fantastic as hell btw) and we've got a 91 convertible Jimny to prep as well. 
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Mar 3, 2019 03:13
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Rear brakes and wheel bearings, fixed the exhaust and then saw this wellgently caress  oh, well that's not bad I don't know how the subframe got so bad when the rest of the car is pretty much rust-free, but it seems like a combo of bad factory paint that flaked off and a pocket above the rot that collected some good old Ohio Roadshit.
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Mar 3, 2019 04:16
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Honest question, was there something significantly different about the 96 that made it a one-year-only subframe? Or is this just a seller listing it wrong? The 96-00 are all the same generation, though 99-00 got a facelift (new front clip, different tail lights, new center stack, overall looked better post-facelift IMO). I know some 92-95 parts can swap between them, but I didn't think a subframe would be one. (e: also that's some seriously impressive rust, goddamn.... wonder how many people would die if you took a long left sweeper at high speed with it like that?) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 09:33
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I really don't know what the deal is with that. I'm fairly confident that the LCA, rack, rear motor/trans mount and body are the same all the way through 96-00 so I can't imagine why the subframe would be different. As bad as my rust hole is, a little searching around shows some horrifying pictures of gaping holes missing from 6 gen subframes and the usual "I was still driving this until last week with just a clunk." e: and in typical fashion, a few days after doing rear brakes, I have a pedal that's creeping ever closer to the floor, so I either killed the MC/have a leak/killed a wheel cylinder with bad timing. I get to go out at 5am tomorrow morning and find out if I can drive it to work or if I'm driving my other car with summer performance tires in 10 degree f weather 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 5, 2019 |
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Mar 5, 2019 03:53
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This motherfucker right here. It's the valve handle for the fuel bowl drain. I don't know how it keeps getting out, because getting it back in involves disassembling the fuel bowl, but every time it does it causes the valve to open and diesel to piss out. It seems physically impossible for it to ever get loose but it just keeps doing it.
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Mar 5, 2019 23:09
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STR posted:Honest question, was there something significantly different about the 96 that made it a one-year-only subframe? Or is this just a seller listing it wrong? They're all the same 96-00. Honda made minimal design changes once the came up with the dual wishbone chassis, 88-00 civics and 95-01 integras have a shitton of compatible parts. My racecar has an EG front subframe/steering rack/LCAs, integra disc brake rear trailing arms, and koni shocks designed for a CRX.
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Mar 6, 2019 00:42
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Pretty much what I thought, tho I thought the 90-93 Integras were pretty similar to 88-91 Civics ( As for me... I have a literal spraying oil leak, from the oil pressure sender. How loving ironic. New OEM is $11 from Rockauto, so it's ordered. I only have to yank the starter to get to it. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Mar 7, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 14:54
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Replaced a Control Arm and took off the Inner-Outer Tierod. Never did either of those before. Thankfully the control arm slid out surprisingly easily for how bulky it is. I had to cut the tierod in half as it was bent and the tool wouldn't fit over the damage. I thought I had a metal cutting disc on my angle grinder but after 15 mins of cutting I switched and discovered it was a tile cutting disc, whoops! With the correct disc on it took just seconds.
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Mar 6, 2019 14:54
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I may be doing control arms next. I can't track down what the gently caress is doing the violent clunking up front, even with pry bars. It's clearly audible even outside the car, but once you put it on a lift or even just prying at poo poo while under it, nothing moves around.  I've done quick struts, sway bar end links, and all of the motor + trans mounts so far. Takes an alignment fine (and wasn't far out even after doing struts and endf links), but the clunking/knocking/banging is pretty alarming. If you see-saw at the wheel, you can feel something slamming around. Ball joints and tie rods seem fine, it has newish wheel bearings up front, so it's more #justGMthings at this point. someone gimme a match randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 14:56
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I installed Hill Descent Control in my F-150 by buying a 15 dollar switch and connecting my laptop to the OBD port
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Mar 7, 2019 03:25
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Been collecting parts for my xB and gonna try to get everything put in in one day.....But it will probably take two or three TRD springs and shocks are on the way 
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Mar 7, 2019 05:41
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STR posted:Pretty much what I thought, tho I thought the 90-93 Integras were pretty similar to 88-91 Civics (not counting the clutch; think Civic had gone to hydraulic by then). I know a lot of EG parts could swap between a DA chassis, but it's been so long since I played with HondaLegos that I forget what swaps between what.
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Mar 7, 2019 06:27
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STR posted:Pretty much what I thought, tho I thought the 90-93 Integras were pretty similar to 88-91 Civics ( 89-91 civics are very similar to 90-93 integras with almost anything between them swapping with only slight differences in geometry. 88 civics are also very similar except the rear lower control arms were box in style instead of the shocks having forks to go over the control arm. 92-95 civics and 96-00 were very similar to 94-01 integras. The main differences between the years were the various swaps from obd1 to obd2a to obd2b. EG and EK civics have the best compatibility to the DC integra, and the EF civic to the DA. While you can swap DC parts into an EF, it is generally more complicated than DC to EG. When I originally swapped my 88 Civic with everything from a DA integra, I bolted up the EF suspension to the DA and threw the d15/trans into it so it could all be towed away. So if you ever come across a ‘91 DA integra with a d15 in it, you know where it came from.
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Mar 7, 2019 12:34
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bird with big dick posted:I installed Hill Descent Control in my F-150 by buying a 15 dollar switch and connecting my laptop to the OBD port Heh, was this one of those buy the switch and the harness was behind a blank-out panel type things?
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Mar 7, 2019 15:26
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C-Bangin' it 
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So over the last week or so, I modded my 2000 Mustang to have a double-DIN radio slot (stock was single DIN), and put in a Pioneer MVH-1400NEX. Still working out a couple things (that stupid Mach460 connector from Metra is the biggest piece of poo poo), but it's in, working, and I feel better about the car in general - carplay and a backup camera goes a long way. I also threw new headlight housings (why doesn't anyone make a nice set for this car?), and nice bulbs in the front lights, as well as Sylvania ZEVO reverse bulbs. On order, the FRPP shift knob that's apparently out of production. Hopefully this ebay seller can come through, because the stock one is worn out and it's beaaaaautiful:
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Mar 7, 2019 19:17
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I hate that knob shape so much, you can have my old one if you want but I think its just black. Give me a good ol ball any day. :oneofthepenisemoticons: What headlights did you get?
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Mar 7, 2019 19:38
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