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Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer

Booley posted:

Commission Ultramarines repulsor. gently caress repulsors. Miserable lovely model for modern GW.




Yep, still has not grown on me.

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Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh
Something about those always reminded me of Crocs.

That Italian Guy
Jul 25, 2012

We need the equivalent of the shrimp = small pastry avatar, but for ambulances and their mysteries now.
Since there's been some discussion on light boxes recently, I'll repost this since I've just ran into it itt: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3705692&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=183#post458454767 (post and follow up discussion on white balancing in the camera settings and with Photoshop/gimp).

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I put up some pegboard, and printed a bunch of these:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1374310

There's one for dropper bottle sizes as well.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Is it possible to put Liquitex matte varnish through an airbrush or should i just brush it on? I assume I have to thin it with something, but what would I use?

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
Works fine in my experience with Liquitex airbrush medium.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Funzo posted:

Is it possible to put Liquitex matte varnish through an airbrush or should i just brush it on? I assume I have to thin it with something, but what would I use?

I used Vallejo Airbrush Thinner with it, but I think you could just use whatever you use to thin anything acrylic.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Thanks for the replies. I think I can get Vallejo locally, so I might try that first. Nobody carries the Liquitex stuff in store it seems.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
Not sure where you are but if in the US, liquitex is sold in all of the arts and crafts stores.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Funzo posted:

Is it possible to put Liquitex matte varnish through an airbrush or should i just brush it on? I assume I have to thin it with something, but what would I use?

I run it through straight. It's a bit thick so adding some thinner like Vallejo Flow Improver might help.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




I just use water with all the liquitex varnishes in an airbrush

Just a heads up though, the liquitex matte is almost too matte and can really suck any kind of life out a paintjob, I prefer the satin

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
Someone recommended the Vallejo Mecha Matt and I really like it.

Another Bill
Sep 27, 2018

Born on the bayou
died in a cave
bbq and posting
is all I crave

Professor Shark posted:

loving Canada is keeping me from painting right now- it's been super cold and windy here so I haven't been able to prime any new figures.

Maybe I'll do the base for "crawling out of grave" guy tonight.

I'm feeling this post too. I put together all the Kill Team terrain but the weather won't cooperate. :(

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Mikey Purp posted:

Not sure where you are but if in the US, liquitex is sold in all of the arts and crafts stores.

Liquitex is yes, but the airbrush stuff specifically isn’t an “in Store” item. At least around here it isn’t.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Funzo posted:

Liquitex is yes, but the airbrush stuff specifically isn’t an “in Store” item. At least around here it isn’t.

They dont have specific airbrush stuff, just one range and its brush on or airbrush

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Eifert Posting posted:

Someone recommended the Vallejo Mecha Matt and I really like it.

Yeah I like it too.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
Someone on a YouTube video independent characters mentioned was showing off using a white ink for zenithal highlighting. It looks way better than using a white has anybody had any experience with it?

That Italian Guy
Jul 25, 2012

We need the equivalent of the shrimp = small pastry avatar, but for ambulances and their mysteries now.
I've painted my first tartan!

It was fun, even if I had to salvage it midway through once I've started working with the light color and had some troubles making it keep coherency. I've also tried using some TMM paints again and giving it a bit more body with colored washes and matte highlights. It's a pity I've slathered super glue all over the mode without realizing, ruining some parts of the front - that have lost almost all details. (Open in a new tab for ginormous).

All in all I'm happy with the results on the metal and the tartan, altough there is obviously ample room for improvement. My original idea was to paint over the initial blended highlights on the cape, but at the end of the day that has become almost imperceptible after I was done with the freehand. Also a lot of the rest of the miniature is a bit rushed up, since I wanted to have dinner <.<

While waiting for the lightbox to arrive, I haven't used the white balancing gimp tricks I've linked before, but at least I've put all the shots in a single image this time :c00lbutt:

That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Mar 3, 2019

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



X-Wing ships count as miniatures right? I decided to try repainting a Resistance A-Wing.



The problems I had around the canopy are less obvious from a normal viewing distance luckily.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Lots of folks ask "can I run X through my airbrush". The answer is always yes, but you likely need to thin it and if its some nasty stuff you'll need to clean your airbrush afterwards.

Slandible
Apr 30, 2008

After using one for a few months, yes you can run any GW sludge paint you want through it, but model air or similar is just so nice. Pop a couple drops in and you're good to go.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
My Leviathan's body is done and it's just dem guns left to go.

Space Marine dreads are just the best to paint. Something about them just makes the process so painless.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Got some more work done on the barbarian horde this weekend.

Here's everything done so far:










Please draw your attention to the leopard print hot pants.



and I got about halfway done with Thedda. First time trying zebra print. I need to extend the black up more into the white so it isn't so stark.



Edited with cleaner backgrounds.

Zuul the Cat fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 4, 2019

crazystray
Aug 7, 2005
Grow or die.
Just got into this hobby recently. I quit playing video games because it was expensive and taking too much of my time. I am not sure this is better.


Anyhow, here is my first ever unit of mini's, they are in left to right order of when I painted them.

https://imgur.com/a/4bHRaiY

Things I learned:

Good brushes are huge, and uh, try not to destroy them.

A wet pallet is great, but you have to use the right paper, stupid paper that came with it was awful.

Some sticky tack on top of different objects make great mini handles for painting! I particularly liked using a wine bottle, it's way easier to find places to brace my hand or get a good hold and angle, also with small minis on top, you can roll the bottle and they won't touch the table.

A good inside out strategy let me paint faster and not worry about mistakes on places that were going to be layered over anyway.

counterspin
Apr 2, 2010

Workin' on Hutchuk, because he's the only Minions model that's been putting in work for me recently.


crazystray
Aug 7, 2005
Grow or die.

Zuul the Cat posted:


Edited with cleaner backgrounds.

I kinda liked the other backgrounds..... :shrug:

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

crazystray posted:

Just got into this hobby recently. I quit playing video games because it was expensive and taking too much of my time. I am not sure this is better.


Anyhow, here is my first ever unit of mini's, they are in left to right order of when I painted them.

https://imgur.com/a/4bHRaiY

Things I learned:

Good brushes are huge, and uh, try not to destroy them.

A wet pallet is great, but you have to use the right paper, stupid paper that came with it was awful.

Some sticky tack on top of different objects make great mini handles for painting! I particularly liked using a wine bottle, it's way easier to find places to brace my hand or get a good hold and angle, also with small minis on top, you can roll the bottle and they won't touch the table.

A good inside out strategy let me paint faster and not worry about mistakes on places that were going to be layered over anyway.

Good work dude! Way better than my first minis

Seldom Posts
Jul 4, 2010

Grimey Drawer

crazystray posted:

Just got into this hobby recently. I quit playing video games because it was expensive and taking too much of my time. I am not sure this is better.


Anyhow, here is my first ever unit of mini's, they are in left to right order of when I painted them.

https://imgur.com/a/4bHRaiY

Things I learned:

Good brushes are huge, and uh, try not to destroy them.

A wet pallet is great, but you have to use the right paper, stupid paper that came with it was awful.

Some sticky tack on top of different objects make great mini handles for painting! I particularly liked using a wine bottle, it's way easier to find places to brace my hand or get a good hold and angle, also with small minis on top, you can roll the bottle and they won't touch the table.

A good inside out strategy let me paint faster and not worry about mistakes on places that were going to be layered over anyway.

These look great! I like the bright silvery armour.

One tip is if you put a dab of black paint on the ends of the guns, you can get a decent "open barrel" effect. (As you become more obsessed with this hobby, you'll probably start drilling them beforehand.)

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

crazystray posted:

I kinda liked the other backgrounds..... :shrug:

I got yelled at in discord. :)

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Late xpost from the 40k thread.



The first completed models for march is a pair of Death Cult Assassins that a friend sent me around last year or something.
Not the most fun things to paint due to loss of detail here and there, decided not to show their backsides because their hair is just a muddled mess that I know I didn't get right.
But they turned up pretty okay in the end.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

So I'm trying to step up my painting/hobby game this year. My painting skills are decent, but I think what I really need to improve on is assembly, green stuff, and priming.

It could just be that I know where to look on my minis to see the flaws, but it seems like a lot of you guys just don't miss a loving spot and I just don't understand how.

For example, this is a picture of a (unfinished) Castigator I was working on recently:


I didn't hit the underside of the cape while priming it, and I sure as hell can't get a brush in there. I typically prime my minis after they've been put on their base, but I'm wondering if there are better ways?

Or some of you guys will post photos of random bits "attached" to little wooden skewers or dowels, and I'm not really sure what's going on there. I mean, I get the philosophy: easier to "attack" the model with your brush, but what are you actually using to do this? What does your station look like?

Things like that. Anyone know of a video that goes over these sorts of things, or if not able to just share some wisdom?

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

Sab669 posted:

So I'm trying to step up my painting/hobby game this year. My painting skills are decent, but I think what I really need to improve on is assembly, green stuff, and priming.

It could just be that I know where to look on my minis to see the flaws, but it seems like a lot of you guys just don't miss a loving spot and I just don't understand how.

For example, this is a picture of a (unfinished) Castigator I was working on recently:


I didn't hit the underside of the cape while priming it, and I sure as hell can't get a brush in there. I typically prime my minis after they've been put on their base, but I'm wondering if there are better ways?

Or some of you guys will post photos of random bits "attached" to little wooden skewers or dowels, and I'm not really sure what's going on there. I mean, I get the philosophy: easier to "attack" the model with your brush, but what are you actually using to do this? What does your station look like?

Things like that. Anyone know of a video that goes over these sorts of things, or if not able to just share some wisdom?

What I would do for a model like that where you need to get inside the cape (if leaving the cape separate and assembling after painting isn't an option) is to leave him off the base, drill and pin with a paperclip into his foot and attach him to a piece of cork for painting.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

What I would do for a model like that where you need to get inside the cape (if leaving the cape separate and assembling after painting isn't an option) is to leave him off the base, drill and pin with a paperclip into his foot and attach him to a piece of cork for painting.

Yeah, this. Also blu tack/poster tack is your friend. When I do space marines I keep the arms and head disassembled from the body but will stick them all together with poster tack for zenithal priming so I don't screw up where the shadows fall. I paint the sub-assemblies by using a pin vice to drill a small hole in an inconspicuous area and then stick a paperclip in with a dab of superglue like GuardianoOfAsgaard described above.

crazystray
Aug 7, 2005
Grow or die.

Seldom Posts posted:

These look great! I like the bright silvery armour.

One tip is if you put a dab of black paint on the ends of the guns, you can get a decent "open barrel" effect. (As you become more obsessed with this hobby, you'll probably start drilling them beforehand.)

Hey thanks! Great tip, I will definitely do this. At what point should I drill barrels, before priming I am guessing?

I've got some Martian Ironearth drying on a base as a test right now, any suggestions on how much or little to get on the feet for a good effect?

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Got this guy finished up (minus the base) today:







I skipped the Screaming Skull between Sepia and Agrax washes this time to see what would happen... I don't think it turned out as well as the Reaper guy I finished last week.

I think I'll work on the other swordsman next, I want to leave the Two-Handed Sword and Mace guy until towards the end, since I like them best. I'm going to hold off on my Goal Guy (Spear guy from the set) until I find a better way to paint purple.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Professor Shark posted:

Got this guy finished up (minus the base) today:







I skipped the Screaming Skull between Sepia and Agrax washes this time to see what would happen... I don't think it turned out as well as the Reaper guy I finished last week.

I think I'll work on the other swordsman next, I want to leave the Two-Handed Sword and Mace guy until towards the end, since I like them best. I'm going to hold off on my Goal Guy (Spear guy from the set) until I find a better way to paint purple.

It'll look way different when it dries. Wait until then to see if you wanna change it at all.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
That might be shiny looking because it's gloss agrax earthshade rather than still wet.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Nope, regular Agrax, but this guy is shiny as Hell. The Reaper has that old bone look, I guess the SS layer makes a difference.

Quidthulhu
Dec 17, 2003

Stand down, men! It's only smooching!

Hi, my name is Quidthulhu and I am bad at edge hilighting & light boxes....but getting better!

Here's some Adeptus Mechanicus rangers (kind of, I realized after building a box of vanguards & a box of rangers I have mixed and matched weapons, don't know how that's gonna work on the table!) that I finished painting up this weekend. I learned a ton, and I'd love feedback on any painting technique, but I would ESPECIALLY welcome technique on how to light box shittier because they look way better in person than in the photos. I am using a cheapo Amazon lightbox and an iPhone XS Max camera.



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Punkinhead
Apr 2, 2015

Quidthulhu posted:

I would ESPECIALLY welcome technique on how to light box shittier because they look way better in person than in the photos.

Oh yeah, I was inspired by BoneMonkey to give freehanding a shot. I was actually really proud of one until I took a close-up picture of it.


Decent tabletop Iron Hawk


Chalky unfinished mess

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