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Colostomy Bag posted:And just to add, you have to be a little careful when ordering brakes from Rock Auto. They list specifications and you really have to pay attention with the sizes they present you with. Amazing what a 320mm rotor for an ammo plated limo versus a 310mm rotor will do when mounting brakes. That order hosed me for few days. Well thanks for that thought now I want an armor plated minivan.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:33
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canyoneer posted:Well thanks for that thought now I want an armor plated minivan. You'd be drat surprised.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:38
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C-Bangin' it 
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canyoneer posted:Well thanks for that thought now I want an armor plated minivan. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_SYNus
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Mar 1, 2019 20:40
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I get that it's bad for the inverter, all I was asking is "will the inverter being flogged/dying hurt anything else". If the answer is "yes" then ok, I'll move to the next solution, but there's a whole lot of replies trying to argue with me about what batteries I have (lol) and zero y/n responses to the actual question. Well, STR sorta addressed it, so thanks there.
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Mar 1, 2019 21:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hondas are kinda weird here - on at least a few vehicles they've sized the rear pads down so far that they wear at similar rates, if not faster than, the fronts. But yes, if the shop didn't say anything then there's probably no concern. Colostomy Bag posted:And just to add, you have to be a little careful when ordering brakes from Rock Auto. They list specifications and you really have to pay attention with the sizes they present you with. Amazing what a 320mm rotor for an ammo plated limo versus a 310mm rotor will do when mounting brakes. That order hosed me for few days. The stupidest part is that the base Fiesta has drum rear brakes, so there's no reason for them to ever have a four wheel disc kit with these pads.
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Mar 1, 2019 21:23
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wolrah posted:
Yeah, I hear you. I picked up a pair rotors (NAPA branded if you believe it) from Rock Auto, tossed them on and I'm screwing with the rear caliper. Welp, they were wrong. Should have known the $15.99 specials were a closeout for a Maybach.
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Mar 1, 2019 21:32
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Hi goons, its me again.. So here I am finally ready to buy some cats and install them... but in checking with a mechanic beforehand, he told me that if they've cut the cats and straight piped it, that means there is no O2 sensors, meaning I have to buy a whole new pipe that will have the cats and the sensors. So as said back in December... an entirely new kit. Who exactly in California do I contact about a dealer selling me this insanely illegal car that they had a smog pass for? E: If there is no O2 sensors on this, wouldn't that trip the check engine light? Its functional. Did the rear end in a top hat who used to own this do something to make it not go off with no O2 sensors? E2: Is going to a pick n pull and grabbing an entire exhaust system (sans converters) a possible option? Leal fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 23:12
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An exhaust shop should be able to weld bungs in for the sensors. The sensors may be there, but they're probably tuned out. Or it really does have cats (have you verified for yourself that there's no cats?). This is what you probably want: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/consumer/invest/inv172 and https://www.dca.ca.gov/webapps/bar/complaints.php
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Mar 2, 2019 07:12
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I’ve need to replace a broken front spring on my £150 POS Kia. Unfortunately I can’t find torque specs for putting it back together anywhere. Thoughts- Find a similar size / suspension design car and use those specs? Check specs for the bolt size / type? Just do em good n tight? It’s a 2004 Kia Rio 1.3, facelift DC first gen hatch/wagon , in case anybody has access to specs?
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Mar 2, 2019 12:29
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When the tire company offers the exact same model of tire at different speed ratings, is there any reason to get the lower rated one? Especially if the price is the same. Will the lower rated one have a softer ride or something?
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Mar 2, 2019 12:56
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OXBALLS DOT COM posted:When the tire company offers the exact same model of tire at different speed ratings, is there any reason to get the lower rated one? Especially if the price is the same. Will the lower rated one have a softer ride or something? Is the treadwear rating the same?
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Mar 2, 2019 13:39
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Leal posted:Who exactly in California do I contact about a dealer selling me this insanely illegal car that they had a smog pass for? As stated the first time you posted about this car: a lawyer. And stop posting on the internet about it as you should shortly have an ongoing case and any decent lawyer will tell you to stop posting on the internet about it. You don't want this car. I mean, maybe YOU do, but I'm telling you for your own good that you do not want this car. Hire a lawyer, make the car go away and your money come back.
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Mar 2, 2019 14:22
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Motronic posted:As stated the first time you posted about this car: a lawyer. And stop posting on the internet about it as you should shortly have an ongoing case and any decent lawyer will tell you to stop posting on the internet about it. Motronic posted:stop posting on the internet about it, ...Hire a lawyer, make the car go away and your money come back. Also, hey thread! What 9007 bulbs should I get for my (legal) 2000 Mustang GT? My headlights suck, so I'm replacing the housings (again) and would like to stick the best brightest bulbs I can in them. Everything I can find through google is either "[nasal accent]the EU passed regulations in 2004 that necessitate .... *drones on*" or marketing speak about how white their lights are, which would probably appeal to me if I'd been at CPAC.
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Mar 2, 2019 18:38
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stump posted:I’ve need to replace a broken front spring on my £150 POS Kia. Unfortunately I can’t find torque specs for putting it back together anywhere. I ended up going with option 1. Didn’t strip anything, took it for a test drive and the wheels didn’t fall off so that’s good enough for me.
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Mar 2, 2019 19:23
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Motronic posted:As stated the first time you posted about this car: a lawyer. And stop posting on the internet about it as you should shortly have an ongoing case and any decent lawyer will tell you to stop posting on the internet about it. I bought the vehicle as is a year and a half ago with no warranty, I don't think I can win that, or at least not by spending less then fixing this problem. And I have no way to prove that this was how the vehicle was sold me, no court is going to rule in my favor with me coming in a year and a half later saying "they totally sold me with a straight piped exhaust system" Leal fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Mar 2, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 21:33
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It doesn't loving matter, they sold it to you and forged the documents. A dealer. Warranty? Doesn't matter. It's emissions equipment. From a dealer. Yes, a lawyer will take this. Shut up and go contact one, seriously.
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Mar 2, 2019 23:00
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Got my flywheel-pressure plate assembly back from the shop today. They said it was very imbalanced, 12g off. So much so, there wasn't enough material to remove from one side of the pressure plate, they had to weld on a bit to the other side. Here's what that looked like:  They also marked pressure plate and flywheel with paint to make sure I reasemble it in the proper orientation. Here's the one picture I took at that step of the process (from the 'gram):  You can see the orange paint tick in the bottom right. Problem is, the thing still vibrates just as much at higher RPM as before! There is also an audible click/tick or something at low RPM. Can anyone identify this sound? (the high pitched whine is the motor itself) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2_fJg3tt4E
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Mar 2, 2019 23:19
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Time to start isolating components then. Do you have any way to rev the motor safely with the flywheel / clutch installed but the transmission not connected at all? And then again with the flywheel / clutch removed?
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Mar 2, 2019 23:22
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I'm not sure if I can rev it separated from the transmission. It's possible if I separate the two, jack up the transmission a bit, that I could then secure the motor mount again to keep it in place without the trans. What am a looking/listening for when I do those two things? Just to see at what point the sound goes away I guess?
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Mar 2, 2019 23:27
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Separated motor from transmission, left flywheel assembly attached. Clicking is gone, and I did not get any of the vibration from before, I think. Here is a low-speed video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Id6O-Xzl5mY And one going up to ~5000 RPM: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgRWKg334O8 This suggests the issue is in my transmission right? I am trying to remember the behavior when I first got the car running (poorly) on the original engine. I don't remember the loud vibration, but it's possible it was simply drowned out by the engine before. I do remember it felt like a lot of heat coming up from the transmission through the shifter hole in the body, but I wasn't sure if this was a transmission issue or just excess engine/exhaust heat seeping in b/c of a lack of insulation.
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Mar 3, 2019 00:11
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rdb posted:Is the treadwear rating the same? Yes. The max rated pressure and a nominal difference in weight (less than half a pound) seem to be the only difference
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Mar 3, 2019 03:19
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Are the Nissan Frontier trucks cheap because the design is old as hell or because they’re crap? Their starting price is like $5k less than a comparable Colorado or Ranger.
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Mar 4, 2019 00:03
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FCKGW posted:Are the Nissan Frontier trucks cheap because the design is old as hell or because they’re crap? Their starting price is like $5k less than a comparable Colorado or Ranger. Old as hell. It's hard to justify spending that much money on something that drives/ride like a 20 year old truck.
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Mar 4, 2019 00:25
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I've got a weird banging that comes from under my 06 GX470 sometimes when it's been cold out overnight (think below zero by 5 degrees or more f). It's a rhythmic bang that I can feel through the floor too that seems to be directly proportional to how fast the vehicle is going, and still happens if I'm rolling forward and slide it into neutral. It's only happened twice so far. Once a couple months ago where it went away quick enough I figured it was a fluke, but this morning it took a good while to stop. The banging is bad enough I pulled over when a couple times (then it'd stop for a bit) and eventually it went away again. I think something is binding up till the car gets warm enough underneath let is slide easier. I'd like to figure out what it is in case the cold is just exacerbating something that's gonna be a problem at all times though. The speed of the banging feels like it could be in time with a driveshaft, u-joint, axle, maybe the transfer case. Feels like it's about the middle of the car so I'm thinking some part of the driveshaft. It's cold as poo poo here and I don't have anywhere not covered in snow to work on it so I'm planning to take it in to a mechanic, but want to give them an idea where to look since it's an intermittent problem that might not be happening when I bring it in. (or if there's maintenance things I should just have them do regardless while they're under there.)
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Mar 4, 2019 00:35
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This is sort of an odd question so please bear with me. I'm looking for suggestions on a car to buy to spend time working on that is somewhat user friendly (relatively) in regard to types of tools needed, ease of repairs, has cheaper / easily available replacement parts. My dad ran a full service shop and I worked with him from the age of 10 till I was in college. In college I worked at Goodyear during the semesters. So, I have a lot of experience with a lot of different cars / types of work (except body and paint stuff). I haven't actually worked substantially on a vehicle since like 2001 though and am kinda thinking it's something I'd like to do again in the upcoming years now that I am settled and have some space. My daily driver is a 2012 Prius with <90k miles. My wife has a 2004 Grand Cherokee I6 at around 100k miles. The Jeep will die eventually and may or may not be worth sinking a lot of money into. I can say that I definitely don't want to work on another 4WD. This vehicle may or may not replace the Jeep, doesn't have to. So, I'm pretty open to options. I live in New England, so not really looking at convertibles. Just something that I can find and fix up that isn't ridiculous to work on or overly costly on parts. When I was a kid this would have just been some sort of 60-70s era VW Beetle since I remember them being a snap to work on and at least then had a big aftermarket scene for parts. Not sure if that's still the case or if there's something else out there. What do yall think?
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Mar 4, 2019 00:45
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powderific posted:I've got a weird banging that comes from under my 06 GX470 sometimes when it's been cold out overnight (think below zero by 5 degrees or more f). It's a rhythmic bang that I can feel through the floor too that seems to be directly proportional to how fast the vehicle is going, and still happens if I'm rolling forward and slide it into neutral. It's only happened twice so far. Once a couple months ago where it went away quick enough I figured it was a fluke, but this morning it took a good while to stop. The banging is bad enough I pulled over when a couple times (then it'd stop for a bit) and eventually it went away again. I would immediately suspect the Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 01:24
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That Works posted:This is sort of an odd question so please bear with me. Dodge Dart.
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Mar 4, 2019 05:10
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You don't mean the new Dodge Dart (that already got killed off)... right? 
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Mar 4, 2019 05:11
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STR posted:You don't mean the new Dodge Dart (that already got killed off)... right? No. I mean: 1963-75. drat, but they are tons of fun! 
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Mar 4, 2019 05:15
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STR posted:The sensors may be there, but they're probably tuned out. Or it really does have cats (have you verified for yourself that there's no cats?). Confirmed today, nothing. Also confirmed that the computer readiness is not working right, so it wont show check engine with the sensors missing. Thanks for the help guys.
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Mar 4, 2019 18:58
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Hey guys, I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue (GM 3800 engine, non-supercharged, automatic transmission, front-wheel drive) with 142k miles. I'm hearing a strange sort-of growling/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, usually around 25-35 miles per hour while accelerating. If I let off the gas or hit it harder, the noise will stop. It also comes back sometimes while lazily accelerating from say 45 to 60. I don't think it's the bearing due to how it comes and goes in specific circumstances. I don't think it is related to the steering angle. I'm not having any drive issues with it that I can tell, but if it's not my imagination, I do feel sometimes like the car is slipping, like if you have a lovely clutch in a manual transmission. That's usually at low speed under 30ish mph. Any ideas of what that is or how to narrow it down further would be appreciated.
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Mar 4, 2019 21:47
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sleepy gary posted:Hey guys, I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue (GM 3800 engine, non-supercharged, automatic transmission, front-wheel drive) with 142k miles. I'm hearing a strange sort-of growling/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, usually around 25-35 miles per hour while accelerating. If I let off the gas or hit it harder, the noise will stop. It also comes back sometimes while lazily accelerating from say 45 to 60. I don't think it's the bearing due to how it comes and goes in specific circumstances. I don't think it is related to the steering angle. I'm not having any drive issues with it that I can tell, but if it's not my imagination, I do feel sometimes like the car is slipping, like if you have a lovely clutch in a manual transmission. That's usually at low speed under 30ish mph. First thing I would check for is the brake pad condition. Bad/shot pads combined with a sticky caliper can make a poo poo-ton of weird noises. I would start there. As for the slipping, the 4T60 isn't exactly the stoutest. Usually the time they poo poo the bed the reason is the TCC solenoid. But when that happens you get a helluva hard shift from 3-4. Slippage problems could be something not happy in the engine bay. But like I said start with the brakes. Disclaimer: I owned a 97 Ultra so sorta know what I'm talking about.
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Mar 4, 2019 22:04
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Hm, well the front pads and rotors are definitely in need of replacement. I already have the parts. It would be pretty cool if that's all it is.
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Mar 4, 2019 22:19
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I was cleaning snow off my car and my snow brush broke and in my infinite wisdom used a shovel and scratched my hood. Is there anything I can do that's easy/cheap to cover the scratch a bit or prevent it from getting worse?
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Mar 4, 2019 22:28
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sleepy gary posted:Hey guys, I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue (GM 3800 engine, non-supercharged, automatic transmission, front-wheel drive) with 142k miles. I'm hearing a strange sort-of growling/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, usually around 25-35 miles per hour while accelerating. If I let off the gas or hit it harder, the noise will stop. It also comes back sometimes while lazily accelerating from say 45 to 60. I don't think it's the bearing due to how it comes and goes in specific circumstances. I don't think it is related to the steering angle. I'm not having any drive issues with it that I can tell, but if it's not my imagination, I do feel sometimes like the car is slipping, like if you have a lovely clutch in a manual transmission. That's usually at low speed under 30ish mph. That sounds an awful lot like a noise my Protege was making once. It ended up being fully hosed motor mounts, the engine was twisting too far and rattling off the firewall. You'll wanna raise the hood, put it in reverse and/or drive, hold the brake *very* firmly, and floor the gas a few times, for about a second each time. Either you or a second observer need to watch the engine and see how much it rocks under load, the top shouldn't move more than an inch or two. Check in both directions. If it's flipping around violently, replace your mounts.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:17
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Things that I've seen wrong with the 3800/4t60e combo, in no particular order: CV axles Transmission is susceptible to heat (one of the few cars where an additional transmission cooler is actually a legit, direct benefit) Engine mounts Cam position sensor, causes random shutoffs without a code in OBD cars, with a pending code in OBDII Freeze plugs Plastic coated timing gears - coating chips off. Only a few years affected. Oil pan bolt stripping very easily. Coil packs - make sure they have a drat good ground (sand the back plate and the mounting platen, apply dielectric in a ring around the contact box, deoxit that bigass connector held on with a bolt) Intake hose tearing in a rib, difficult to spot visually or when warm. Serpentine tensioner going bad, PITA to replace (undo engine mount, remove washer reservoir, jack engine up) For the engine mounts, especially the passenger side one, I drove for about 30k on a DIY windo-weld filled mount just fine. The cars are all at that age that rust and corrosion are big concerns, even in places like Arizona. GM used really, really poo poo metal and it's like they designed the unibody to explicitly hold water, especially at the B pillars and around the trunk hinge points. There's a reason that you'll get covered in anti-seize if you ever rip out the trunk carpet and start rooting around.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:33
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I was cleaning snow off my car and my snow brush broke and in my infinite wisdom used a shovel and scratched my hood. Easiest/cheapest is some touch up paint from your local auto store of choice. Depending how big a scratch we're talking, colors that don't match exactly may stand out quite a lot. You can get exact color matches sometimes from the internet if you're picky and want to look up info on doing it "proper". There's a whole spectrum of ways to fix it depending how picky you are.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:34
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PainterofCrap posted:Dodge Dart. I'm reading up on it. After sleeping on it I was possessed by the thought of fixing up a 1st generation Chevy S10 with an Iron Duke. My grandpa had one that he just babied like crazy and it was the 1st vehicle I was ever allowed to drive even though I was far far to young to ever actually be doing such a thing. How bad of an idea would this be?
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Mar 5, 2019 01:16
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That Works posted:I'm reading up on it. Hell yeah, if I could find an old S10 that wasn't rusted away to nothing I'd snatch it up in a heartbeat.
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Mar 5, 2019 01:28
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That Works posted:I'm reading up on it. In the Midwest, most early (and late for that matter) S10s are rotted way to hell. Every once in a great while I'll see one in shockingly good shape and it will make me a little nostalgic for when trucks were just simple little workhorses. If you can find a solid one for a good price, I say snatch it up.
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Mar 5, 2019 01:45
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