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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:This Intel 660p is on sale everywhere today. I'm thinking of picking it up to replace my m.2 MX500. Is this a dumb idea? The 660p isn’t really an upgrade on the performance side, but that’s a good price for 2TB! If you don’t need the space now, SSDs are expected to keep falling over the year. I’d consider getting a M.2 SATA enclosure so you can use your MX500 as well!
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Mar 6, 2019 09:11
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Stickman posted:What resolution/refresh rate are you looking to play games at? That’s the single largest factor in determining which GPUs you should be considering! Right now I'd aim for 60fps on high settings, and being able to expect to maintain that for a couple years. I'm not about super high graphics, but I like my games to look pretty  ItBreathes posted:Can't say I'd recommend doing it, but if you're set on it I'd start somewhere around https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VjqVKB, with the case of your preference. I'm no expert on GPU models so I grabbed the cheapest EVGA one as apparently they have good warranty service. For the PSU whatever's cheapest of the EVGA supernova, seasonic focus plus or prime, or Corsair RMx is fine, one or the other is always on sale, 550w or 650w should do you. Buy a windows key from SA Mart. This is a perfect place to start, thanks! 
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Mar 6, 2019 09:30
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i'm not really sure if this is the right place since i finished building the pc literally yesterday but i noticed a weird rattling sound - i don't know if it's the case fan just being loud, or if it's something else, like a loose wire hitting a fan (which shouldn't be the case since i've tied it down). i uploaded a clip for a friend to take a listen to, and they said it sounded like something scraping against something, which worries me. link on imgur. idk what it could be and i really don't want to take apart the pc right now to see what's going on because i'd been working on it all of monday and i'd just finally got it set up.
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Mar 6, 2019 11:05
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The pitch is really low for that to be a plastic fan blade. Try unplugging any HDD you may have and put your finger on fan surround to see if you feel that scraping. Also touch the PSU to see if it's that fan.
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Mar 6, 2019 11:11
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Sounds a bit like a cluster of wires getting raked by a fan - the noise might be constant, but it's not the same every time. Another possibility - a fan bearing is faulty. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 11:25
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I did open just open it up again to see if it was wires or the fan, but everything was going fine. But I think I realize what the problem is - the rattling is actually from the hard drive, which is mounted on the other side like so. I have the hard disk located in the upper left of the corner and I guess I didn't install it properly (although to be fair, I've never seen a hard drive installation like this before). It is pretty late where I am though, so I probably won't get to it until after work.
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Mar 6, 2019 11:50
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Is there a consensus somewhere on exactly what to pay attention to when purchasing a used GPU? I never got into mining and so don't know how ruined the GPU can be. Do I just visually inspect the PCB for discolorations, run a benchmark (like UNIGINE Heaven) and snag it if it works? The local equivalent of Craigslist has some pretty good deals on 1080Ti-s that I really want to take advantage of (900 euros in a store for a new higher-end 2080 vs around 600 for a used higher-end 1080Ti). The seller is claiming the card is ~9 months old and is promising to provide the original receipt (so, more than a year of warranty left). It's an MSI Gaming X model.
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Mar 6, 2019 12:51
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Backyarr posted:Is there a consensus somewhere on exactly what to pay attention to when purchasing a used GPU? I never got into mining and so don't know how ruined the GPU can be. Do I just visually inspect the PCB for discolorations, run a benchmark (like UNIGINE Heaven) and snag it if it works? I recently bought a used 1080 Ti, MSI Gaming X... it worked perfectly, it performs as expected in 3DMark compared to my other MSI Gaming X 1080 Ti (the other one is for my wife's machine), and basically was in pristine condition. Had the original box, and even all the covers for the ports and PCIe connector. Not saying yours will be like that necessarily, but I say go for it. If you're paranoid, run a few passes of 3DMark and keep an eye on temps, if you have the chance. I probably don't have to point out the the Gaming X model itself is a fantastic choice.. the cooler is really quiet and does a great job.
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Mar 6, 2019 16:13
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How expensive is 4k now? Like what would be considered good specs for 4k gaming? Also, what are some decent but not horrifically expensive 4k monitors for someone who likes to draw/paint?
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Mar 6, 2019 16:17
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Backyarr posted:Is there a consensus somewhere on exactly what to pay attention to when purchasing a used GPU? I never got into mining and so don't know how ruined the GPU can be. Do I just visually inspect the PCB for discolorations, run a benchmark (like UNIGINE Heaven) and snag it if it works? Those are the main things to check. If possible, pay with PayPal or a similar service that offers buyer protection. Since it also offers seller protection, it might not be too hard to convince the seller to eat the ~€15 fee.
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Mar 6, 2019 16:17
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Elderbean posted:How expensive is 4k now? Like what would be considered good specs for 4k gaming? Also, what are some decent but not horrifically expensive 4k monitors for someone who likes to draw/paint? Is refresh rate important to the games you play (FPS, sports, etc)? If so, then I wouldn't waste money on a 4k display and GPU to drive it. A 1440p running at least 120hz is going to deliver a much better experience. You'll definitely need a 1070 GPU at a minimum if you want to play on higher display settings.
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Mar 6, 2019 16:24
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jfreder posted:I'm currently in a similar boat with my ITX build from early 2016 and am curious what others suggest. I have an i5 6500, 16 GB of DDR4 2133 RAM, an RTX 2060, and 1080p monitors (I use my 144 Hz monitor for games). Trying out some recent games like Anthem, Division 2, Apex, I've been noticing all of the CPU cores pegged at 100%. With the Division 2, after a couple hours of gameplay the max utilization on my GPU was 97% with the CPU pegged out the majority of the time. I'm in a similar situation (i5 4670k, 16GB RAM, Gtx 1070, 1440p G-Sync Display). Did you decide on an upgrade path? Could anyone else chime in? I haven't looked into this for a while, should I wait for the next release cycle?
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Mar 6, 2019 20:27
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Nocheez posted:Is refresh rate important to the games you play (FPS, sports, etc)? If so, then I wouldn't waste money on a 4k display and GPU to drive it. A 1440p running at least 120hz is going to deliver a much better experience. Yeah 1440p makes more sense, I have a 1060 GPU and I'm looking to get a 1080 soon. Elderbean fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 20:48
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Update on my 'will I won't I' for my i9-9900k animation workstation build - so I was wondering why my brush was lagging in photoshop and flash. Same with playing games or watching videos - or even MOVING WINDOWS AROUND. System resources weren't being used like AT ALL. I was starting to think I really would need a new system to solve the issue. Turns out google drive sync was doing something screwy causing that. After uninstalling it all my art programs run as smoothly as they used to. Haven't tried gaming yet but I'm guessing more of the same. As I said earlier, my current system still has a lot of life in it for doing professional work - so I think I want to get the rest of the use out of it until I have a huge wad of savings for a new system. What I do want to do though for now, is get a 'working build' together for a system that as a pure gaming rig, which is optimized for my currently-owned windforce gtx 1080. Along with a good gaming 1440p display to go with it. (Either that or get a thin & light gaming laptop that I can hook up to an EGPU and display.) So what am I looking at CPU and motherboard wise (and other components-wise) for an optimized 1440p gaming rig built around pure gaming, and my existing gtx-1080. (With room to upgrade to a 2080 or 2080ti in the future.) I still am strongly considering that i9-9900k - but getting that also depends on if I can also budget for a 24 inch 4k cintiq pro. For now I want to get a range of options open for a pure gaming rig in additional the 9900k I already got a working build saved of. Spacedad fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 21:07
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I've been out of the part-shopping game for a while now and I'm almost ready to get back into it (seems to be every 4-5 years I build something new). What are the recommended parts websites right now? Are there any price comparison sites? I heard Newegg got bought a few years ago. Do people still shop there? And uh, I guess rigs with tons of lights are back in style now? I remember they were a big thing in the mid-2000's, then it seemed like minimalist designs were the in-thing, and now I'm seeing poo poo like RAM with lights and neon liquid cooling. Man, I wish I still lived near a Micro Center. Their open-box deals were hard to beat.
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Mar 6, 2019 21:31
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DizzyBum posted:I've been out of the part-shopping game for a while now and I'm almost ready to get back into it (seems to be every 4-5 years I build something new). What are the recommended parts websites right now? Are there any price comparison sites? I heard Newegg got bought a few years ago. Do people still shop there? Yeah, having tons of gaudy lights is apparently not only in style again, but mainstream, and much more cookie cutter than before. Back then people were cutting up their cases and sticking cold cathodes everywhere; now everything is built in, and has a stupid "app", because a switch is too old fashioned.
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Mar 6, 2019 21:34
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HalloKitty posted:Yeah, having tons of gaudy lights is apparently not only in style again, but mainstream, and much more cookie cutter than before. Back then people were cutting up their cases and sticking cold cathodes everywhere; now everything is built in, and has a stupid "app", because a switch is too old fashioned. I had to get my eye drilled when I got a spark in my eye cutting a window in my case like 18 years ago. I'm glad the new stuff is so much easier to use.
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Mar 6, 2019 21:43
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I see that PC Part Picker has something called "parametric filters" now, which automatically updates build parts based on certain criteria I set to try to get me the lowest price. That's pretty cool and exactly what I could use right now. Neat!
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Mar 6, 2019 22:00
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My most recent experience with Newegg was good. Haven't bought any hardware in about a decade so I don't know what other people are saying about their service, but I picked up some ram and a ssd from them since they were listed as the cheapest option on pcpartpicker. After my order shipped out, I saw that the price of each dropped about 10 bucks on their website. Waited for about 30 mins in the customer support chat queue to see if they could do anything for me and they offered me the difference in a gift credit without any argument.
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Mar 6, 2019 22:01
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I think I've got things sorted out for the core parts of my new smaller HTPC build. Mainly this is to size down. Currently it's a Haswell Pentium G3258 with 4 GB and a Radeon 6350 in a horizontal ATX case. Not really dissatisfied with the performance (gaming is minimal, nothing newer or more demanding than Portal 2), but the case is bigger than I wanted. We've been living with it because at the time I preferred a low-end discrete GPU to the Pentium's iGPU, and need a PCI-E slot for a capture card, so didn't feel I could go any smaller. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($91.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: ASRock - B450 GAMING-ITX/AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($118.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team - T-Force Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master - Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon) Total: $325.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-06 15:29 EST-0500 A few questions: 1. I've never built one this small before; I don't see any options for a mini-itx power supply. Do they just use regular ATX ones? I have a good one from the last build I can carry over if so - it's not used daily or even, at times, weekly. So, 1a. Do the components degrade just over time or primarily with use? Is a 4-year-old seldom used PSU still going to be in good condition, or should I still order a new one? 2. I know next to nothing about RAM or current RAM vendors; if 5-10 bucks will get me something better for the Ryzen, I'm all ears. I doubt I need more than 4 GB for my use case but do they even make 2 GB modules anymore? Not, apparently, for the top speeds, which I'll want for the Ryzen. 3. I was considering a NVME SSD, but my current SATA 840 EVO should be good enough for now, I take it. 4. A Ryzen 2200G should be fine for my limited gaming wants, right? I have a 65" 4k TV but it wouldn't even necessarily need to push 4k for the games; I'm sure I'll be pleased with 1080p. I'm assuming it will put out 4k 60fps for regular display purposes, at least. 5. If I (i.e. my wife) want to spend even less, could I get away with a LGA1150 mini-itx board instead to simply transfer the Pentium and save on the RAM and CPU? Or are only trash tier manufacturers even making anything like that anymore? And will Windows still think I'm using a new computer due to a different motherboard and make me purchase a new copy anyway?
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Mar 6, 2019 22:36
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Got my 9900k build in the mail today. Currently laughing about the 3d hexagon and rather enormous box. Gonna build soon
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Mar 6, 2019 23:13
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ethanol posted:Got my 9900k build in the mail today. Currently laughing about the 3d hexagon and rather enormous box. Gonna build soon Yeah seriously, what's with those geometric boxes for CPUs? With that and the resurgence of bright neon lights, I don't understand kids and their PC builds today. 
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Mar 6, 2019 23:22
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Son of Sam-I-Am posted:I think I've got things sorted out for the core parts of my new smaller HTPC build. Mainly this is to size down. Currently it's a Haswell Pentium G3258 with 4 GB and a Radeon 6350 in a horizontal ATX case. Not really dissatisfied with the performance (gaming is minimal, nothing newer or more demanding than Portal 2), but the case is bigger than I wanted. We've been living with it because at the time I preferred a low-end discrete GPU to the Pentium's iGPU, and need a PCI-E slot for a capture card, so didn't feel I could go any smaller. Do you have a more powerful gaming PC with an NVidia card? If so, you should check if the NVidia Shield TV will do what you want. If so, it'll be a much better value than anything you could put together. Son of Sam-I-Am posted:1. I've never built one this small before; I don't see any options for a mini-itx power supply. Do they just use regular ATX ones? I have a good one from the last build I can carry over if so - it's not used daily or even, at times, weekly. So, 1a. Do the components degrade just over time or primarily with use? Is a 4-year-old seldom used PSU still going to be in good condition, or should I still order a new one? Your current PSU would likely be fine, though I don't recommend running them past warranty. The Elite 130 will take full-size ATX power supplies, but it's much nicer to work with a small form-factor SFX with a ATX->SFX Bracket. If you decide to a get a new PSU, I'd recommend a Corsair SF450 and an adapter bracket. If you're not putting in a discrete graphics card, you could even opt for the smaller Elite 110 Son of Sam-I-Am posted:2. I know next to nothing about RAM or current RAM vendors; if 5-10 bucks will get me something better for the Ryzen, I'm all ears. I doubt I need more than 4 GB for my use case but do they even make 2 GB modules anymore? Not, apparently, for the top speeds, which I'll want for the Ryzen. Honestly, for that price, I'd just consider spending an extra $15 for 16GB of G.Skill Aegis 3000, which is QVL for your motherboard and should run at the advertised 3000MHZ. Non-QVL 3200 kits might run at 3200, but might run slower, so it's generally not worth going over 3000 unless you check the compatibility list. Son of Sam-I-Am posted:3. I was considering a NVME SSD, but my current SATA 840 EVO should be good enough for now, I take it. A 840 should be more than sufficient. If you want a new drive, the NVMe HP ex920 are currently the best value, and only slightly more expensive than non-NVMe MX500s. Son of Sam-I-Am posted:4. A Ryzen 2200G should be fine for my limited gaming wants, right? I have a 65" 4k TV but it wouldn't even necessarily need to push 4k for the games; I'm sure I'll be pleased with 1080p. I'm assuming it will put out 4k 60fps for regular display purposes, at least. What games do you want to play? The 2200G (and 2400G) are very marginal for newer games, and mostly only decent at 720p. I'd look up benchmarks for the games you're interested in. [quote="Son of Sam-I-Am" post="493144723"] 5. If I (i.e. my wife) want to spend even less, could I get away with a LGA1150 mini-itx board instead to simply transfer the Pentium and save on the RAM and CPU? Or are only trash tier manufacturers even making anything like that anymore? And will Windows still think I'm using a new computer due to a different motherboard and make me purchase a new copy anyway? [quote="Son of Sam-I-Am" post="493144723"] Unfortunately, Intel locks their chips to specific motherboard generations even when the socket doesn't change. That means you'd likely be paying new prices for a used compatible board. It'll save you a little money, but not much and you'll be gambling on the board.
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Mar 6, 2019 23:39
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DizzyBum posted:Yeah seriously, what's with those geometric boxes for CPUs? With that and the resurgence of bright neon lights, I don't understand kids and their PC builds today. They'd make a heck of a lot more sense for a 12-core unit.
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Mar 6, 2019 23:40
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What would the recommended build be to get 1440p/144hz on at least settings in modern games? Eg apex legends, battlefield, whatever? Just curious what ballpark of price I should be thinking about here— I don’t have a great sense of what even makes sense for a budget. I’m in the US, ideally hoping for something not huge and not super gaming-looking if at all possible. (Ideally I’d also have 32-64GB RAM which I assume is a decent amount extra, but that’s not for gaming but because I’d like to be able to do some inefficient coding without having to use server time all the time) E: for reference, I have a G Sync 1440p 144Hz monitor, but my computer can no longer manage anywhere near those frame rates on new games
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Mar 6, 2019 23:41
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Nocheez posted:I had to get my eye drilled when I got a spark in my eye cutting a window in my case like 18 years ago. I'm glad the new stuff is so much easier to use. Condolences. I hope you were following Norm Abram's advice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enBG2oeFb18&t=14s
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Mar 6, 2019 23:41
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Media Bloodbath posted:I'm in a similar situation (i5 4670k, 16GB RAM, Gtx 1070, 1440p G-Sync Display). There's not really a right answer here. A 9700k/9900k will only give 0-10% more performance than a 2600X at 1440p, probably closer to the "0" side with a 1070. They'll have a little more breathing room a few years + GPU upgrades down the road, they'll be no upgrade path and Zen 2 might be good for gaming if rumors/AMD marketing are to be believed. But we won't know until they're released, which will probably be summerish, but again we don't know. Basically, if you're running into problems now, the 2600X is by far the cheapest upgrade to a 6/12 processor that will do what you want. If you're not too annoyed with your system yet, there's always something better coming.
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Mar 6, 2019 23:49
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To anyone on Skylake (or even Haswell) I'd advise waiting to see what Zen 2 has to offer. Some games want >4 cores but afaik that's mostly just battlefield right now. 9-series and Intel chips will give you those extra cores and slightly higher absolute performance if you're chasing 144hz, but at considerable cost. Zen+ offers those cores much cheaper, but at the same performance or even possibly a mild regression if you're on Skylake/kaby lake.
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Mar 7, 2019 00:10
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tildes posted:What would the recommended build be to get 1440p/144hz on at least settings in modern games? Eg apex legends, battlefield, whatever? Just curious what ballpark of price I should be thinking about here— I don’t have a great sense of what even makes sense for a budget. For a lot of new games, there isn't any build that can get a solid 1440p/144Hz if you like high/ultra graphics settings. AC:Odyssey, for instance, caps out at around 70 fps with an 8700k/2080 Ti. Apex Legends is a little better, capping at around 125, and BF5 can get up to 144, but only with that 2080 Ti (although BF5 is definitely achievable with settings turned down). It's less a matter of "which hardware" and more "how many settings are you willing to turn down vs. how much are you willing to spend chasing marginal gains". Top-of-the-line 9900k/2080 Ti will run you ~$2500-2900 depending on options . Subtract $110 for a 9700k, which has very similar gaming performance. Bringing the cost down a bit with a 9700k/2080 is closer to $2000, and a similar 2600X/2080 build is $325 cheaper (a bit less if you want an aftermarket CPU cooler). A 2070 would save you another $200 or so, (and you could save $50-80 with a cheaper case, too). E: For not super-huge, you might prefer the Meshify C. Stickman fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Mar 7, 2019 |
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Mar 7, 2019 00:11
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Gonna build in an asrock a300w, I'm on my phone so I'm having trouble finding what would be the optimal m.2 ssd for that thing. Any ideas?
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Mar 7, 2019 00:15
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Stickman posted:For a lot of new games, there isn't any build that can get a solid 1440p/144Hz if you like high/ultra graphics settings. AC:Odyssey, for instance, caps out at around 70 fps with an 8700k/2080 Ti. Apex Legends is a little better, capping at around 125, and BF5 can get up to 144, but only with that 2080 Ti (although BF5 is definitely achievable with settings turned down). It's less a matter of "which hardware" and more "how many settings are you willing to turn down vs. how much are you willing to spend chasing marginal gains". Ah gotcha, maybe my expectations are not calibrated correctly. Ty that’s helpful context. I’m pretty much willing to run everything on the lowest settings possible apart from 1440p— I guess my concern is that that pc would then become outdated very quickly, but maybe that’s just to be expected? What is a more reasonable FPS goal where you aren’t hitting those big diminishing returns? Right now I get like 80 FPS @ 1440p with everything turned to the lowest possible setting, but maybe I’m actually a lot closer to the point of diminishing returns than I’d thought?
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Mar 7, 2019 00:24
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Would an overclocked 2500k with an RX 460 running off PCIe power require more than a 400w PSU?
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Mar 7, 2019 00:36
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8 Ball posted:Would an overclocked 2500k with an RX 460 running off PCIe power require more than a 400w PSU? From my use of this tool it looks like you're cutting it pretty close if you're running 1.35v or so to the CPU. At stock you're fine but the whole point of the 2500k is that you're supposed to overclock the poo poo out of it.
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Mar 7, 2019 01:25
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Stickman posted:There's not really a right answer here. A 9700k/9900k will only give 0-10% more performance than a 2600X at 1440p, probably closer to the "0" side with a 1070. They'll have a little more breathing room a few years + GPU upgrades down the road, they'll be no upgrade path and Zen 2 might be good for gaming if rumors/AMD marketing are to be believed. But we won't know until they're released, which will probably be summerish, but again we don't know. Thanks! Guess I might as well wait til fall.
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Mar 7, 2019 01:41
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Stickman posted:Do you have a more powerful gaming PC with an NVidia card? If so, you should check if the NVidia Shield TV will do what you want. If so, it'll be a much better value than anything you could put together. Thanks for all this. Lot to digest. No, though, this is our only PC. Stickman posted:Your current PSU would likely be fine, though I don't recommend running them past warranty. The Elite 130 will take full-size ATX power supplies, but it's much nicer to work with a small form-factor SFX with a ATX->SFX Bracket. If you decide to a get a new PSU, I'd recommend a Corsair SF450 and an adapter bracket. If you're not putting in a discrete graphics card, you could even opt for the smaller Elite 110 The PSU I have is the 300W SeaSonic listed in the OP, so I'm confident enough in its quality, but I like the idea of a new one too. I'll ponder. Stickman posted:Honestly, for that price, I'd just consider spending an extra $15 for 16GB of G.Skill Aegis 3000, which is QVL for your motherboard and should run at the advertised 3000MHZ. Non-QVL 3200 kits might run at 3200, but might run slower, so it's generally not worth going over 3000 unless you check the compatibility list. This is exactly the kind of recommendation I needed; I don't know anything about QVL beyond skimming the thread for the last week or so. I don't expect to ever need 16GB, but the price is right. Stickman posted:A 840 should be more than sufficient. If you want a new drive, the NVMe HP ex920 are currently the best value, and only slightly more expensive than non-NVMe MX500s. It is only a 128GB 840, but it doesn't really need to be bigger or faster for now. It pretty much holds Windows and not much else. It might breathe new life into my old single core netbook from 2010, though, if I replace it. Stickman posted:What games do you want to play? The 2200G (and 2400G) are very marginal for newer games, and mostly only decent at 720p. I'd look up benchmarks for the games you're interested in. It was kind of buried in my post, but I play games seldom anymore, and mostly on the Switch and not on PC. The newest game I'm likely to play is Portal 2, and the Radeon 6350 already did that effectively enough for my needs. Stickman posted:Unfortunately, Intel locks their chips to specific motherboard generations even when the socket doesn't change. That means you'd likely be paying new prices for a used compatible board. It'll save you a little money, but not much and you'll be gambling on the board. I did find this Ocamo H81 motherboard but I don't know anything about that manufacturer. This was my thought, that only bottom-tier manufacturers would even bother making something this out of date now. Its listed as new, though I imagine I'd be losing out on features like 4k 60fps if it doesn't have the newest hdmi standard. But as a cheap sidegrade it might be ok. I think my current board is Z97 but I haven't overclocked anyway. Well you've given me lots to think about, thanks again.
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Mar 7, 2019 02:55
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Crosspostin'Harik posted:Yay my new $650 threadripper arrived That'll teach me to order something on satan's page. I thought the threadripper boxes were well-designed?
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Mar 7, 2019 04:12
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Son of Sam-I-Am posted:It was kind of buried in my post, but I play games seldom anymore, and mostly on the Switch and not on PC. The newest game I'm likely to play is Portal 2, and the Radeon 6350 already did that effectively enough for my needs. I missed that, embarrassing! Even Intel's integrated graphics are about 5x more powerful than a 6350, so you should be fine either way  Harik posted:Crosspostin' Yeesh. It's painful to look at!
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Mar 7, 2019 04:32
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Stickman posted:I missed that, embarrassing! Even Intel's integrated graphics are about 5x more powerful than a 6350, so you should be fine either way Fun part is I get to buy another one full price and they'll refund this one "eventually".
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Mar 7, 2019 04:36
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Harik posted:Fun part is I get to buy another one full price and they'll refund this one "eventually". Who’d you buy from? Sounds like a good one to put on the “avoid” list...
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Mar 7, 2019 04:45
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Stickman posted:Who’d you buy from? Sounds like a good one to put on the “avoid” list... I'd absolutely advise never buying from amazon, they have the worst packaging.
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Mar 7, 2019 04:47
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