|
Booley posted:GW plastic and metal will probably be fine. Resin/finecast will bend and you'll need to heat and rebend them. I'm not sure what it'll do to potted paints, but I'd remove them. If it's not too hard I'd take everything out of your house. Former AZ resident whose AC went out in July a couple of years ago. Rattle cans and pots are ok. The paints will evap a little bit and need to be shaken well (ideally with an agitator), but otherwise behave normally. Resin, plastic, and pewter are also fine. Inks and glues, though, remove (and any other alcohol based paint).
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 18:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 20:18 |
|
|
What are your opinions on slotta bases? I'm building my first models ever that use this style, and I'm wondering if I should just assemble as intended using the slot or if it's worth the trouble to just clip the models at the feet and fill the slots with milliput or something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 18:48
|
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:What are your opinions on slotta bases? I'm building my first models ever that use this style, and I'm wondering if I should just assemble as intended using the slot or if it's worth the trouble to just clip the models at the feet and fill the slots with milliput or something. If the slot is there I see no reason to not use it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 19:22
|
|
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:If the slot is there I see no reason to not use it.  PM me
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 19:32
|
|
|
Put the finishing touches on a dwarf rogue lady  Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 20:50
|
|
|
Cthulu Carl posted:Put the finishing touches on a dwarf rogue lady She is stoked about her knives
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 21:55
|
|
|
long-rear end nips Diane posted:She is stoked about her knives 
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
Wolfy bois! Need another coat of matte varnish though.
dedian fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Mar 9, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2019 23:48
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:Hello fellow new painter! I experience the same anxieties you do about posting my paint jobs. You're a lot further along in skill level than I am for what it's worth it! I like these dudes you did, they are awesome. Thank you! I’ve seen what you’ve posted here and it looks like you’re really progressing, keep it up!
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 00:21
|
|
|
My chaos men needed transport
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 00:35
|
|
|
goodness posted:My chaos men needed transport Yes but what does it taste like?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 01:16
|
|
|
Crossposting the last time with the results of my freehand tutorials.Z the IVth posted:Have some nice pink titans.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 02:11
|
|
|
I would like some opinions on a shape for magic effects before i commit green-stuff to it. I made this using blue-tack so sorry if it looks bad, i just wanted to convey the general shape i was going for.  This is my idea (roughly) for a fireball/ magic fire effect, but i'm also thinking of a smokey/wispy magical type effect (modelling that using blue-tack has proven really hard for me).
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 02:32
|
|
|
Holy poo poo does Forgeworld ship fast. I ordered Tuesday and had a parcel in my hands Thursday afternoon. Painting some more skeletons this week, but will have to wait for March Break to start painting SM’s.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 02:49
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Yes but what does it taste like? Sour apple and death
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 03:01
|
|
|
goodness posted:My chaos men needed transport 
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 05:28
|
|
|
I forgot how hard it is to get paint to adhere properly to vintage airfix.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 09:09
|
|
|
Cross-posting from Infinity thread because I'm shameless. Got the itch to paint again and finally finished my Unidron team.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 09:54
|
|
|
Nice! Space Marine decorum question: should pauldron color (gold in this case) match armor stud color?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 12:48
|
|
|
Mine doesn't.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 15:20
|
|
|
Was up all night painting a rat ogre.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 16:01
|
|
|
Does anyone have a guide for painting bionics? I cannot find one online. It looks like most people just use Leadbelcher and Nuln, however the FW pic of the Legion Praevian has what appears to be a red or purple wash that adds some visual interest...
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 16:23
|
|
|
I usually do mine balthasar gold > nuln oil > runefang steel > necron compound; gives them a brass-like look that I like. if I want them to look antique, I then add a thin layer of nihilakh oxide. e: Balthasar gold, not brass scorpion D: e2: I r dumb, and not to be trusted 
inscrutable horse fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Mar 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 17:20
|
|
|
I don’t think I’ve posted much (if at all in this thread) - just getting back into painting over the last few years, and have been lurking here religiously... But, just wanted to chime in and say - I’ve backed this, and I have no idea what I’m going to use it for, but it’s going on some minis, that’s for sure: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/culturehustle/the-blackest-black-paint-in-the-world-black-30 Also - if anyone in the UK is near a Hobbycraft, they should check it out. Was there yesterday, and picked up some decent brushes, and odd acrylic paints (lots of Tamiya, Humbrol, Revell). Seriously thinking about getting dropper bottles from Aliexpress and decanting all my pot paints into them...
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 23:51
|
|
|
Amphigory posted:But, just wanted to chime in and say - I’ve backed this, and I have no idea what I’m going to use it for, but it’s going on some minis, that’s for sure: Why not combine your enjoyment of kickstarter and your need to decant your pots into droppers? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/hugeminis/ultimate-dropper-bottle-transfer-kit
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2019 23:56
|
|
|
Haha, holy poo poo. I already have a wee funnel, and dropper bottles are 87p for 10 on Ali. And I have plenty of resin skulls for agitators. Kickstarter is such a scam
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 00:31
|
|
|
Amphigory posted:Haha, holy poo poo. I already have a wee funnel, and dropper bottles are 87p for 10 on Ali. And I have plenty of resin skulls for agitators. Kickstarter is such a scam 15cc Dropper Bottles: $0.34 Each Mini Polyethylene Funnel: $0.98 Each 0.25" Stainless Steel Balls: $0.0252 Each Aerator Thing: Junk So about $9.50 not including the stupid aerator thing or bulk prices.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 01:00
|
|
|
inscrutable horse posted:I usually do mine balthasar gold > nuln oil > runefang steel > necron compound; gives them a brass-like look that I like. if I want them to look antique, I then add a thin layer of nihilakh oxide. I have no idea what to think 
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 01:04
|
|
|
BoneMonkey posted:sure, here you go This is neat and inexpensive! Good link.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 01:57
|
|
|
I was finally able to get some Simple Green, I want to soak my figures for about 24 hours before scrubbing the paint off under water and a brush, right?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 04:29
|
|
|
I brush without water first, then finish off with water.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 05:48
|
|
|
goodness posted:My chaos men needed transport drat! Making it real hard for me to resist buying a resin printer
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 06:28
|
|
|
Professor Shark posted:I have no idea what to think I was actually painting when I was replying, and it was a steaming pile of hot nonsense, since I was only paying half attention to what I was typing. The post went through a number of iterations of brass scorpions and leadbelchers, until I finally got my head out of my rear end, and edited in the actual paint progression: balthasar gold base > nuln oil shade > runefang steel edge highlight > (light) necron compound drybrush; though the last two are pretty interchangable. Optionally, you could substitute runefang steel for gehennas gold, if you want more of a golden colour; and finally, you could add a thin layer of nihilakh oxide for that antique look. That was what I meant to type.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 08:54
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:I was finally able to get some Simple Green, I want to soak my figures for about 24 hours before scrubbing the paint off under water and a brush, right? I find that even after a 24 hour soak, Simple Green sometimes doesn't do the job. I used to use it until I discovered Super Clean. It contains sodium hydroxide, which eats any organic compound. This includes acrylic paint, super glue and your skin and mucus membranes, so wear gloves and don't breathe the fumes. Super Clean strips models, well, clean after a 12 hour soak and can be found in the automotive aisle of your favorite box retail chain. Also hello thread, I'll make a nice topical effortpost with photos of my Howling Griffons later
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 14:21
|
|
Honneur et Patrie 
|
   Continuing work on Hutchuk. The grip on the hammer is a failure, just one in a long line of personal failures involving blue, but otherwise I think he's turned out better than expected.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 17:57
|
|
|
Decided to work on another unit for my Death Guard. Got the green armor done, Balthasar Gold & Agrax wash done and did some red sores & yellow pustules on the armor. Loads more to go! Then to work on 2 more!  
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 19:57
|
|
|
The French Army posted:I find that even after a 24 hour soak, Simple Green sometimes doesn't do the job. I used to use it until I discovered Super Clean. It contains sodium hydroxide, which eats any organic compound. This includes acrylic paint, super glue and your skin and mucus membranes, so wear gloves and don't breathe the fumes. Super Clean strips models, well, clean after a 12 hour soak and can be found in the automotive aisle of your favorite box retail chain. Yeah I am finding that Simple Green is going to leave behind paint in the hard to reach places, so that is frustrating. I may just have to consider this figure a lost cause which sucks. Plastic is expensive! 
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 20:18
|
|
|
I said come in! posted:Yeah I am finding that Simple Green is going to leave behind paint in the hard to reach places, so that is frustrating. I may just have to consider this figure a lost cause which sucks. Plastic is expensive! I mean, if there's just some paint left in hard-to-reach places I assume they're also hard to see, so just paint over em! You're going to be re-priming the things anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 20:21
|
|
|
Also, assuming you're thinning your paints enough, it's not that big a deal to paint over a previous paintjob. It'd take a few redos before you really notice any loss of detail, especially on hard plastic, which isn't the most detailed to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 20:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 20:18 |
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Also, assuming you're thinning your paints enough, it's not that big a deal to paint over a previous paintjob. It'd take a few redos before you really notice any loss of detail, especially on hard plastic, which isn't the most detailed to begin with. Inspector_666 posted:I mean, if there's just some paint left in hard-to-reach places I assume they're also hard to see, so just paint over em! You're going to be re-priming the things anyway. This was a model where I was still learning how to do thin my paints and did a piss poor job. If I knew how to thin my paints to begin with then I wouldn't be in this mess. :P
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2019 20:47
|
|