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It means you should do more dips.
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Mar 11, 2019 02:11
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Mezzanon posted:What does it mean when you can do 15 pull ups but only 2 dips? AriTheDog posted:It means you should do more dips. This is me.
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Mar 11, 2019 02:19
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I am also terrible at dips, I guess I should do some tricep weight stuff so I get strong enough to do real dips. Mantles are the bane of my existence
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Mar 11, 2019 02:31
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If you don't have an easy way to do dips, and don't have dumbbells for other tricep exercises, do close grip pushups. You can also do a lesser sort of dip using a bench or some equivalent. Sit with your back to it and your legs straight out in front of you, and do dips on the edge of the bench. That will be a lot easier than a full dip.
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Mar 11, 2019 02:38
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All great advice thank you!
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Mar 11, 2019 05:11
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armorer posted:If you don't have an easy way to do dips So like 2 chairs? :P
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Mar 11, 2019 05:32
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spwrozek posted:So like 2 chairs? :P I don't have 2 chairs at home I'd be comfortable doing dips on honestly.
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Mar 11, 2019 12:09
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armorer posted:I don't have 2 chairs at home I'd be comfortable doing dips on honestly. I was just razzing you. I know what you mean though.
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Mar 11, 2019 15:25
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Finally saw Dawn Wall yesterday. Flawless...
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Mar 11, 2019 16:09
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jiggerypokery posted:Finally saw Dawn Wall yesterday. Flawless... I watched Dawn Wall and Free Solo back to back. It was an interesting experience, but not because of the climbing. What I found most interesting was the way both Caldwell and Honnold seemed to have difficulty with stable relationships, and treated their partners rather poorly. Dawn Wall didn't go into a lot of detail about Caldwell's divorce (although I've read more detailed accounts elsewhere), but in Free Solo Honnold treated his girlfriend like total garbage, and you could tell the documentary markers tried real hard to spin it as endearing/cute/funny. It made me lose some respect for him honestly. I can understand that pursuing anything at such a high level requires making sacrifices, but why continue dating someone if you a) think so lowly of them and b) will be so ruthless as to tell them flat out that they aren't as important as your hobby?
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Mar 11, 2019 16:26
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Just a heads up not to destroy your shoulders if you're doing bench dips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdFzYGmvDyg
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Mar 11, 2019 16:58
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enraged_camel posted:I watched Dawn Wall and Free Solo back to back. It was an interesting experience, but not because of the climbing. I didn’t think they were trying to make it cute when they explicitly said his dad had Asbergers and such. They didn’t outright say Alex had it but it’s heavily implied that that along with a kinda unorthodox upbringing will gently caress up your ability to have normal relationships. I mean the dude didn’t get hugged or anything growing up and it’s well established that no human contact will break people.
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Mar 11, 2019 17:17
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enraged_camel posted:I watched Dawn Wall and Free Solo back to back. It was an interesting experience, but not because of the climbing. Most people never find out what their priorities really are, and either assume or, worse, lie about what them to those closest to them. Knowing yourself, and being honest about it, isn't ruthless in a relationship. It's a kindness. jiggerypokery fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 17:17
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George H.W. oval office posted:I didn’t think they were trying to make it cute when they explicitly said his dad had Asbergers and such. They didn’t outright say Alex had it but it’s heavily implied that that along with a kinda unorthodox upbringing will gently caress up your ability to have normal relationships. I mean the dude didn’t get hugged or anything growing up and it’s well established that no human contact will break people. Yeah, I can emphathize with Caldwell. I do remember the part about his dad, and he did explicitly say he had a slow early development and his teachers even thought he was stupid. jiggerypokery posted:Most people never find out what their priorities really are, and either assume or, worse, lie about what them to those closest to them. Knowing yourself is a good thing. Being a total rear end in a top hat to other people, especially those who are close to you, is not. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that telling your significant other that your hobby is more important than them will seriously hurt their feelings, and is pretty far from "kindness".
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Mar 11, 2019 17:40
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enraged_camel posted:Yeah, I can emphathize with Caldwell. I do remember the part about his dad, and he did explicitly say he had a slow early development and his teachers even thought he was stupid. I agree with most of what you're trying to say, but there is a difference between climbing as a hobby and being a professional athlete.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:20
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Slimy Hog posted:I agree with most of what you're trying to say, but there is a difference between climbing as a hobby and being a professional athlete. There is a difference for sure, but again, it does not justify treating others like crap. Do you disagree?
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Mar 11, 2019 18:24
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enraged_camel posted:What I found most interesting was the way both Caldwell and Honnold seemed to have difficulty with stable relationships, and treated their partners rather poorly. Dawn Wall didn't go into a lot of detail about Caldwell's divorce (although I've read more detailed accounts elsewhere), but in Free Solo Honnold treated his girlfriend like total garbage, and you could tell the documentary markers tried real hard to spin it as endearing/cute/funny. It made me lose some respect for him honestly. I'm with you on Honnold's relationship with his girlfriend, but I didn't get that in The Dawn Wall at all, and I don't think it's backed up by Caldwell or Rodden, who have both written about their codependency issues and divorce. Slimy Hog posted:I agree with most of what you're trying to say, but there is a difference between climbing as a hobby and being a professional athlete. True, but if you take Honnold at his word, then the climbs he chooses are ones that are motivated by his own interests, not those of outside influences. I don't know whether that is 100% true, but given how long he has been soloing it is more than fair to say that he doesn't do it because of sponsors. He risks his life because he wants to and because he's good at what he does. "I don't take you into consideration with my climbing because if I die you'll move on" is a pretty horrific thing to say to someone you have actively chosen to share at least part of your life with, whether it's your livelihood or not.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:40
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It's important to keep it in the context of him knowing he is extremely likely to die.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:48
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I mean, being a oval office to stop people getting close to him isn't an unreasonable coping mechanism. Cold as it seems
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Mar 11, 2019 19:50
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I don't really care about his personal life. I like to watch him climb crazy poo poo, that's my extend of interest into his character. 
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Mar 11, 2019 19:51
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I dunno. How he copes emotionally with that level of risk is pretty fascinating in a macabre sort of a way.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:57
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I was surprised that I liked Dawn Wall more than Free Solo, both as a climbing movie and as a documentary in itself. I was expecting that Free Solo would be a better told story with a more compelling dramatic narrative vs. Dawn Wall being a more straightforward climbing movie, but actually thought that Tommy was a more interesting character than Alex both in relation to his accomplishment as well as his friends & family. Hell, I thought Tommy was perhaps even a more interesting character in his appearances in Free Solo than Alex! Obviously that's not to say anything about which climbing feat was more impressive, or to say that I didn't thoroughly enjoy Free Solo. Just a testament to how good Dawn Wall IMO! And for anyone that doesn't know, it's on Netflix now.
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Mar 11, 2019 20:56
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:And for anyone that doesn't know, it's on Netflix now. I didn't know, thanks! I'll be watching that this week some time.
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Mar 11, 2019 21:23
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The scene in free solo where Tommy justifies why he is ok with helping Alex was intense.
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Mar 11, 2019 21:44
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I thought the dawn wall movie was pointless since it is basically his book (the push) in movie form. I had read the book already and the movie didn't have much new climbing in it. So meh. Not to say it is 'bad'. Free solo was more interesting to me. There was a lot less media and so the footage was more interesting to me and there was just more climbing. It was a lot more like Meru for me (my favorite climbing movie) I don't have much comment on Alex's mindset. Sanni knows what he does, to be upset by it or want him to stop is kind of crap.
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Mar 11, 2019 21:45
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Yea I think Dawn Wall better portrays the ridiculousness of climbing El Cap along with a better character study. But seeing Dawn Wall will give you a much better appreciation for how insane Alex was for doing what he did.
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Mar 11, 2019 21:46
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spwrozek posted:
Hot take
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Mar 11, 2019 22:20
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I thought it was important that Free Solo show how hosed up and weird Alex Honnold is. If you want to do things that extreme and out there, you have to be an extreme and out there person. It's probably impossible for "normal" people who have "normal" relationships with other human beings to ever be in the headspace to do something like free solo El Cap. The parts of Alex Honnold that make him a jerk to his girlfriend are also some of the parts of him that make the climb possible, and I'm glad we saw both.
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Mar 11, 2019 22:41
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enraged_camel posted:There is a difference for sure, but again, it does not justify treating others like crap. Oh not not at all. Alex seems like a huge weirdo and from what I saw in Free Solo, his girlfriend seems to rank lower on his priority list than his breakfast. Baronash posted:"I don't take you into consideration with my climbing because if I die you'll move on" is a pretty horrific thing to say to someone you have actively chosen to share at least part of your life with, whether it's your livelihood or not. I agree with this, all I was trying to say was that this is closer to "LOL I don't care about you as much as my career" than it is "LOL I don't care about you as much as I do climbing on the weekends" but now that I type that out, I'm starting to see that it's a mixture of the two and that he would probably not care just as much if he wasn't professional. What a bunch of dumb words about a guy I don't really care about. REAL CONTENT: I was out of town for two weeks, only got to climb twice, which sucked. Then I got back to town, went to the gym once and kinda just ran around and saw that they somehow reset like 1/3 of the gym and tried a BUNCH of random stuff..... and then I got REALLY sick. I can't wait to get back to it....whenever my body finally recovers. Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 22:48
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Hot Diggity! posted:Hot take You know it! Mostly I haven't climbed since December 18th and can't until May so...
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Mar 11, 2019 23:28
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Anyone else working on the old system wall? I've started using the Moon board but am having trouble with many moves as my left arm is a bit crap. I have a tendancy for developing both shoulder impingement and bicep tendonitis at the elbow joint. It's pretty much a catch-22 as I feel the need to to do limit bouldering to get stronger and avoid injury but also do get overtrained easily. I do prehab/rehabby stuff for my shoulder and bicep curls and feel it helps. I have started to train power on campus rungs instead as that feels more controlled - Can keep elbows bent and shoulders activated. I currently short term project french 7b outdoors (OS most 7a) but boulder only around 6b+ on the Moon board.
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Mar 12, 2019 16:28
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Honestly I did find myself annoyed by Sanni in Free Solo. She gave Alex her number at a book signing and knew quite a lot about his intense, unusual and dangerous lifestyle only to then push to change him to a more normal, suburban, nurturing lifestyle. Neither type of life is bad, but the contrast between both was puzzling. And yes Alex describing herlike a pet in his van was lovely
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Mar 12, 2019 22:27
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All things considered does she really push him that hard though? Like at the end of the day, she seems pretty supportive of him free soloing El Cap, which I can't even imagine how stressful that must be to see someone you love do that. Seems like Sanni is mostly interested in Alex being more emotionally open and communicative, which includes talking about his lifestyle. But I didn't get the impression that she's trying to get him to give up something he loves. Taking a step back, basically everything we know about Sanni & Alex individually and as a couple from the film is through the prism of Alex Free Soloing El Cap. I have a feeling that this distorts or skews a lot of their interactions in the film. I mean, how could it not? I guess you could argue that it's not really a distortion since free soloing is a normal thing for Alex, and Sanni knew this going into the relationship so it's just something that their relationship has to contend with that most relationships don't, but I think even Alex would agree that there's "normal" free soloing and then there's free soloing El Cap. I have a hard time judging either of them too hard based on this film alone.
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Mar 13, 2019 00:10
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The thing that I most didn't understand about their relationship was, given how climbing is his *career*, he would let his new, inexperienced girlfriend belay him. I wouldn't let a friend belay me unless I knew they really knew what they were doing. Outdoors, with a career on the line, with a girlfriend of a few months who is brand new to climbing? Absolutely no way in hell. When he got hurt, all I could think was "you did not consider how this might go wrong." Edit: for the kind of partner that a guy like Honnold needs, watch "Africa Fusion" where he climbs with Hazel Findlay. She's just as amazing as he is, but she manages to laugh, have fun, and actually relax into it. Her attitude is like, "I'm going to do my absolute best, but I'm going to have fun doing it." Betazoid fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Mar 15, 2019 |
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Mar 15, 2019 20:35
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Betazoid posted:The thing that I most didn't understand about their relationship was, given how climbing is his *career*, he would let his new, inexperienced girlfriend belay him. I wouldn't let a friend belay me unless I knew they really knew what they were doing. Outdoors, with a career on the line, with a girlfriend of a few months who is brand new to climbing? Absolutely no way in hell. When he got hurt, all I could think was "you did not consider how this might go wrong." There's some more information about it in articles and his book. It was a bit after they started climbing together (Honnold's ANAC report said less than a year), so it wasn't like this was her first time. They were climbing with her family, and he was ropegunning a specific route for her parents to TR. Undoubtedly, he felt completely safe and they were both in enough of a routine that neither of them considered the possibility that her parents' rope was 10m shorter than their own. If you're interested in how cavalier attitudes result in accidents, I'd suggest tracking down a recent edition of Accidents in North American Climbing (or their website). This accident was pretty consistent with a number of the warning signs: climbing far below redpoint grade, borrowed equipment, and distractions (in this case, Sanni's family chatting on the ground). None of this is an excuse, but these types of accidents are common with climbers of all experience levels precisely because folks often don't consider how something might go wrong. Familiarity breeds complacency, after all.
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Mar 15, 2019 21:58
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another good book is Who Lives, Who Dies and Why https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Survival-Who-Lives-Dies/dp/0393326152 lots of deaths resulting from overconfidence-induced lack of attention to detail
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Mar 15, 2019 22:48
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Climbing in the local comp tomorrow for the first time. I think I’ll do well!
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Mar 16, 2019 03:16
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cheese eats mouse posted:Climbing in the local comp tomorrow for the first time. I think I’ll do well! Cool. Have fun, then kick butt.
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Mar 16, 2019 04:08
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Normal brain: dropping Alex was sanni’s fault Genius brain: as the most experienced climber in the group by far, Alex was accountable for ensuring their safety, and though he may not be directly at fault, he DOES share significant responsibility and is not a victim Galaxy brain: ropes are aid
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Mar 16, 2019 05:00
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Normal brain: dropping Alex was sanni’s fault Universe brain: Tie a knot in the end. There are a videos of Alex Honnold climbing with other partners and you get to see far more interesting and relatable sides to his character than the zen master persona he has in his solo stuff. The catty sibling rapport he has with Hazel Findlay is hilarious to watch, while in the Patagonia stuff with Tommy Caldwell he's the apprentice.
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Mar 16, 2019 13:57
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