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Arivia
Mar 17, 2011

5436 posted:

Any recommendations on cheap and small speakers? No sub needed.

There’s a good PC Speakers thread in IYG.

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5436
Jul 11, 2003

by astral

Arivia posted:

There’s a good PC Speakers thread in IYG.

I ended up getting some cheap logitech's, just need something for video chats.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

Holy poo poo, for anyone that has never used water cooling: This poo poo is dead silent. Even at 100% fan speed and max load it’s still quieter than my air-cooled machine was at idle.

Trainee PornStar
Jul 20, 2006

I'm just an inbetweener

MrYenko posted:

Holy poo poo, for anyone that has never used water cooling: This poo poo is dead silent. Even at 100% fan speed and max load it’s still quieter than my air-cooled machine was at idle.

I've not looked back since I tried one of the Corsair all in one coolers on my old 2600k & had a 4.6ghz overclock with stupidly low temps.

orcane
Jun 13, 2012

Fun Shoe

MrYenko posted:

Holy poo poo, for anyone that has never used water cooling: This poo poo is dead silent. Even at 100% fan speed and max load it’s still quieter than my air-cooled machine was at idle.

You had a poo poo air cooler :v:

Bryter
Nov 6, 2011

but since we are small we may-
uh, we may be the losers
Yeah I only have a small Noctua cooler (U12S afair) and it's barely noticeable at load. I don't know how much quieter water cooling would be but it doesn't really matter given that it's already totally drowned out by my GPU fan.

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE
I have a NH-D15 that could easily run my 8700K fanless for all reasonable desktop use - no big tower cooler should have any issues dissipating the ~20W we're talking about here passively. I prefer a constant almost completely inaudible ~400 RPM to the fans spinning up and down, though.

Speaking of fanless, der8auer ran a 9900K on a passive cooler rated for 47W TDP the other day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhKOHKOSa6Y

hawowanlawow
Jul 27, 2009

Is it worth waiting around for a sale on a couple 8gb sticks of old DDR3 RAM? Or does the old stuff not go on sale anymore?

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

hawowanlawow posted:

Is it worth waiting around for a sale on a couple 8gb sticks of old DDR3 RAM? Or does the old stuff not go on sale anymore?

Post a buy thread in sa-mart. You can probably get it for like :20bux:

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

hawowanlawow posted:

Is it worth waiting around for a sale on a couple 8gb sticks of old DDR3 RAM? Or does the old stuff not go on sale anymore?

I’m in South Florida and I have a set you can have for free, if you want to sort the shipping out.

hawowanlawow
Jul 27, 2009

MrYenko posted:

I’m in South Florida and I have a set you can have for free, if you want to sort the shipping out.



Thanks! I'll PM you later when I'm off work and research the easiest way.

BDA
Dec 10, 2007

Extremely grim and evil.
Resident Evil 2 made me realize my Sandy Bridge gaming PC has finally gone from "aging" to "decrepit" so I figure it's time to buy a new one.
Application will be 1080p 60hz gaming, and some amateur music production (I don't need anything special for that, though.)
No particular budget in mind but since I already had a decent GPU I figured ~$700 was a decent target.

CPU: Intel - Core i5-9400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($169.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B365 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($85.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $671.72

GPU is a GTX 1070 that I already have. I'll also be recycling a 4TB HDD. No interest in overclocking.
I haven't done any parts shopping in a long time and had to do a lot of research in a hurry, did I step on any rakes? I know the PSU is overspecced but for some reason the 650w was cheaper than the 550w and I figured it'd give me some headroom if I decided to upgrade with some more power-hungry parts in the future.

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug
My 5 year old PC is starting to really chug. It really hit the wall when I got my monitor (Dell U3417W, 3440 x1440 60Hz refresh rate) and then I tried some PUBG with high settings. It didn't go well. I got the monitor for work stuff, but I have really enjoyed it with games like XCOM 2, and PUBG (when its turned down).

I am looking to play these games in the future:

Doom: Eternal
Wolfenstein: Young Blood / III
Resident Evil II Remake
PUBG on occasion
Rage II
XCOM 2 replays and any new stuff in that nature.
Cyberpunk 2077

I'm not sure if the video card I got is gonna be overkill, but with the huge resolution a 2060/1070 TI seemed underpowered. I also got an extra fan in addition to the 2 the come with the case. I'm thinking about putting it in the front of the case to have positive pressure with the top empty to allow heat to rise and get pushed out with the pressure. The motherboard says 4 system fan headers so I think I'm good there? I like the Fractal Designs generally because of the sound damping on all the panels and my current one is pretty nice. (The current gaming PC is gonna be reused as a Plex machine more than likely.) The smaller S seems like I want it. I might add a 3.5" drive down the line if I need it, but nothing more than that.

If there is anything I am missing or not thinking about I am definitely open to opinions.




PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($418.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.39 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($194.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($779.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.11 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.96 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Fractal Design - GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($12.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1926.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-12 21:10 EDT-0400


If I would be looking at a Ryzen build, this is what I would be looking at. I am thinking, would this give me the ability to upgrade the processor / video card in the future?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($164.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.39 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard ($139.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($549.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.11 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.96 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Fractal Design - GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($12.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1387.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-12 22:05 EDT-0400

ptier fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Mar 13, 2019

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

ptier posted:

My 5 year old PC is starting to really chug. It really hit the wall when I got my monitor (Dell U3417W, 3440 x1440 60Hz refresh rate) and then I tried some PUBG with high settings. It didn't go well. I got the monitor for work stuff, but I have really enjoyed it with games like XCOM 2, and PUBG (when its turned down).

I am looking to play these games in the future:

Doom: Eternal
Wolfenstein: Young Blood / III
Resident Evil II Remake
PUBG on occasion
Rage II
XCOM 2 replays and any new stuff in that nature.
Cyberpunk 2077

I'm not sure if the video card I got is gonna be overkill, but with the huge resolution a 2060/1070 TI seemed underpowered. I also got an extra fan in addition to the 2 the come with the case. I'm thinking about putting it in the front of the case to have positive pressure with the top empty to allow heat to rise and get pushed out with the pressure. The motherboard says 4 system fan headers so I think I'm good there? I like the Fractal Designs generally because of the sound damping on all the panels and my current one is pretty nice. (The current gaming PC is gonna be reused as a Plex machine more than likely.) The smaller S seems like I want it. I might add a 3.5" drive down the line if I need it, but nothing more than that.

If there is anything I am missing or not thinking about I am definitely open to opinions.




PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($418.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.39 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($194.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($779.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.11 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.96 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Fractal Design - GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($12.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1926.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-12 21:10 EDT-0400

For 60hz gaming there's really no reason not to go with a Ryzen 2600/X. A 2070 should also be sufficient for 1440ultrawide based on the benchmarks I could find but I'd get a second opinion there.

Cool Dogs Only
Nov 10, 2012

Stickman posted:

Right now, a 2600X + 2060 will give you a solid 60+ fps on pretty much every current AAA game. If you have a high-refresh monitor Switching to a 9700k can get you better performance in CPU-heavy games like AC:Odyssey, but only when paired with a very powerful GPU (so the CPU is the limiting factor) and the game is already running close to 100+ fps. Stateside, a 9700k will run $300-400 more dollars than a 2600X build, though, and I suspect it breaks down pretty similarly in most EU countries.

Here's a basic recommendation:PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard ($139.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($349.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define S2 Black – TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G1+ 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1085.82


I'm looking to upgrade my current PC to something that will be able to handle virtual reality while still having a reasonable price. Would something very similar to the above build be suitable for that?

For context, my current PC was built in 2011 and is really starting to struggle with running newer games. It also hangs when trying to open programs, so I'm afraid it's on its way out. Current specs:

CPU: AMD - Phenom II X4 955 Black 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock - 970 EXTREME4 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill 4 GB (not sure which kind anymore)
Storage: Samsung - Spinpoint F3 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 460 1 GB Video Card
Case: Antec - THREE-HUNDRED-U3 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - Enthusiast 650 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
Monitor: Acer - G235HAbd 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor

Also, what do you guys recommend I do with my old PC once I build the new one?

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug

ItBreathes posted:

For 60hz gaming there's really no reason not to go with a Ryzen 2600/X. A 2070 should also be sufficient for 1440ultrawide based on the benchmarks I could find but I'd get a second opinion there.

I updated my post with a Ryzen build that looked pretty good a few pages back into the rest of my build. Thanks! Does this look like something that would make sense?

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

ptier posted:

I updated my post with a Ryzen build that looked pretty good a few pages back into the rest of my build. Thanks! Does this look like something that would make sense?

It looks good. I'd start with a 2600X and no aftermarket cooler - the X variety auto-overclocks via Precision Boost Overdrive to pretty much max overclock, and its stock cooler is sufficient for pretty much the highest overclock it can do. If the stock cooler ends up being too loud, I'd consider something like the Thermalright Macho Rev.B - the D15s is very much an overkill for a 2600(X).

For video card performance, Babeltech has a pretty comprehensive benchmark with 2070/2080 comparisons. The UW is about 35% more pixels, so if you knock 25% off of the 1440p performance, that should be pretty close to what you can expect. Note that they're comparing the 2070 black to a 2080 FE (which has a factory overclock), so a 2070 XC Ultra will probably get an additional 5% performance or so.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Cool Dogs Only posted:

I'm looking to upgrade my current PC to something that will be able to handle virtual reality while still having a reasonable price. Would something very similar to the above build be suitable for that?

For context, my current PC was built in 2011 and is really starting to struggle with running newer games. It also hangs when trying to open programs, so I'm afraid it's on its way out. Current specs:

CPU: AMD - Phenom II X4 955 Black 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock - 970 EXTREME4 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill 4 GB (not sure which kind anymore)
Storage: Samsung - Spinpoint F3 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 460 1 GB Video Card
Case: Antec - THREE-HUNDRED-U3 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - Enthusiast 650 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
Monitor: Acer - G235HAbd 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor

Also, what do you guys recommend I do with my old PC once I build the new one?

It should be pretty good. I'm not too familiar with VR performance, so I'd look at 2060 VR benchmarks for set you have and see if it seems sufficient. I know 1070 Tis were considered good for VR and the 2060 should be pretty much equivalent.

You could probably get $70-100 between your motherboard/processor/ram/video card parted out on ebay. If it still works and you just want to get rid of the whole thing, you could probably ask $100-$150 locally on craigslist or similar.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Anime Reference posted:

Resident Evil 2 made me realize my Sandy Bridge gaming PC has finally gone from "aging" to "decrepit" so I figure it's time to buy a new one.
Application will be 1080p 60hz gaming, and some amateur music production (I don't need anything special for that, though.)
No particular budget in mind but since I already had a decent GPU I figured ~$700 was a decent target.

CPU: Intel - Core i5-9400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($169.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B365 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($85.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $671.72

GPU is a GTX 1070 that I already have. I'll also be recycling a 4TB HDD. No interest in overclocking.
I haven't done any parts shopping in a long time and had to do a lot of research in a hurry, did I step on any rakes? I know the PSU is overspecced but for some reason the 650w was cheaper than the 550w and I figured it'd give me some headroom if I decided to upgrade with some more power-hungry parts in the future.

I'd consider a 2600X instead of the 9400. It has a much better stock cooler, and with the auto-overclock enabled (Precision Boost Overdrive) you'll have basically equivalent gaming performance now and much better multicore performance that will translate to better performance in games that take advantage of it. The motherboard will also be compatible with the next two AMD CPU generations, so it would be easy to do an in-place upgrade in the future.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($184.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $686.83

I also switched your PSU to the Focus Plus to save $15.

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh
Every now and then I like to torture myself with a new build that I won't be able to buy until after I get married later this year. My Core i5 3570K is overclocked to 4.5GHz, coupled wth 8GB RAM and a Samsung EVO 850 SSD. GPU is a Radeon 7950 3GB Boost.

It still runs quite nicely for general desktop use but it'll be 7 years old in May this year so I'm just playing around with the general cost I'll be looking at:

https://secure.scan.co.uk/web/wishl..._campaign=share

There's no case there since I'll just be reusing my Fractal Design Define R4, nor is there a new graphics card because I'll not be able to afford a decent one at the same time - I'll just add it in later.

Would there be much of a theoretical performance jump with general desktop and gaming use at 1920x1200 compared to my current system?

BDA
Dec 10, 2007

Extremely grim and evil.

Stickman posted:

I'd consider a 2600X instead of the 9400. It has a much better stock cooler, and with the auto-overclock enabled (Precision Boost Overdrive) you'll have basically equivalent gaming performance now and much better multicore performance that will translate to better performance in games that take advantage of it. The motherboard will also be compatible with the next two AMD CPU generations, so it would be easy to do an in-place upgrade in the future.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($184.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($86.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $686.83

I also switched your PSU to the Focus Plus to save $15.

Thanks, I'll do that. I didn't realize AMD had made such strides, they were a joke last time I was PC shopping.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

Anime Reference posted:

Thanks, I'll do that. I didn't realize AMD had made such strides, they were a joke last time I was PC shopping.

Yeah, the pre-Zen Bulldozer period was not great, at all. Now, they're actually a great choice, and the upgrade paths on AMD chipsets are much more meaningful than Intel's.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

HalloKitty posted:

Yeah, the pre-Zen Bulldozer period was not great, at all. Now, they're actually a great choice, and the upgrade paths on AMD chipsets are much more meaningful than Intel's.

AMD won't confirm it yet, but there's a good chance Socket AM4 will support Zen 3, if it isn't delayed. The CPUs that are due out in/around June are the Zen 2s.

OhFunny
Jun 26, 2013

EXTREMELY PISSED AT THE DNC

Loving Africa Chaps posted:

This would cost £400 from Scan which i think is pretty respectable for looks like it'll be significant upgrade. I guess my questions are:
- should i get an m2 ssd while i'm at it?
- should i get a new power supply while i'm at it?
- is that a sensible selection?

Budget can shift significantly upward if needed but my requirements aren't all that high.

- No. A m2 isn’t going to have a noticeable jump in performance compared to the increased cost.
- Definitely. An old old power supply failing will take your whole pc with it.
- I think so.

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug

Stickman posted:

It looks good. I'd start with a 2600X and no aftermarket cooler - the X variety auto-overclocks via Precision Boost Overdrive to pretty much max overclock, and its stock cooler is sufficient for pretty much the highest overclock it can do. If the stock cooler ends up being too loud, I'd consider something like the Thermalright Macho Rev.B - the D15s is very much an overkill for a 2600(X).

For video card performance, Babeltech has a pretty comprehensive benchmark with 2070/2080 comparisons. The UW is about 35% more pixels, so if you knock 25% off of the 1440p performance, that should be pretty close to what you can expect. Note that they're comparing the 2070 black to a 2080 FE (which has a factory overclock), so a 2070 XC Ultra will probably get an additional 5% performance or so.

Ok, so with all that put together, I am thinking that this is gonna be my "final" build:

I remember vaguely about newer thermal compounds, but I would assume at the level the 2600X is running, this wouldn't be too much of an issue?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($184.89 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.39 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard ($139.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($549.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.11 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.96 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Fractal Design - GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($12.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1326.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-13 10:17 EDT-0400

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

ptier posted:

Ok, so with all that put together, I am thinking that this is gonna be my "final" build:

I remember vaguely about newer thermal compounds, but I would assume at the level the 2600X is running, this wouldn't be too much of an issue?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($184.89 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.39 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard ($139.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($549.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.11 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.96 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Fractal Design - GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($12.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1326.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-13 10:17 EDT-0400

Aftermarket thermal paste is basically irrelevant unless you're doing extreme overclocking or have to take off your hsf for whatever reason. Considering you likely won't even have to overclock to hit 60fps you could get by with a cheaper Mobo, though the one you have will let you push a more powerful CPU further if you need to down the line.

EVGA Supernova G2/3, Seasonic Focus plus, and Corsair RMi are all top shelf PSUs with 10 year warranties, so buy whichever of those is the cheapest, you can almost always find one of them for $50.

Otherwise it looks pretty solid.

teh_Broseph
Oct 21, 2010

THE LAST METROID IS IN
CATTIVITY. THE GALAXY
IS AT PEACE...
Lipstick Apathy

teh_Broseph posted:

My two cents is I've had a GTX1080 and a 1440p@96hz (no sync) screen for a couple years and recently upgraded a 2500k which was bottlenecking the GPU to a 2600x which I haven't seen a CPU bottleneck on (yet). The GTX1080 is definitely not enough any more to slam settings to ultra and try to hit 90+fps@1440p, seems you need a 2080ti for that. You hit some hard diminishing returns in that area so you either go all out with a 2080ti, or depending on the game do some combo of rendering at 1080p and/or lowering some mix of settings down to medium. I'm seriously debating replacing my Korean 1440p 96hz monitor with a 1080p Gsync cause I've gotten really used to high framerates and they're just easier to hit at 1080p. But on the other hand on a GTX1080 level card there are a lot of settings you can turn down to hang out closer to 100fps, get the sharper 1440p render res, and never really notice in actual gameplay that shadows have a slight blur somewhere or clouds don't look exactly like real life. Specific games this has come up for me on include FFXV, last couple Tomb Raiders, Apex Legends, Anthem, even Overwatch I turn a few things down on, Battlefront 2, last couple Asscreeds. Some 2018+ stuff will run great and I barely have to touch anything, some take some tinkering and lowering stuff.

Sooo follow-up here, short version is I'm probably never turning the Windows built in screen capture again:

teh_Broseph posted:

Heyyy so get this, it was goddamn the Xbox game recorder thing! Thanks for the feedback on how things /should/ have been running for me. I dunno how well it'll show up after conversion/compression/etc. but:

https://i.imgur.com/m3SC8Tz.gifv

Holding solid 140, then as I was just complaining about, turn the corner and try to shotgun someone and you can see it churn down to 100 and ramp back up to 140, hold a few seconds, then do it again. It can be frustrating enough when ya have garbage aim, but add those dropped frames that happen right when a fight starts and it's that much worse. I turned off the Windows game capture stuff and capture bar completely and after a series of Apex games it's been ROCK SOLID. Time to start turning settings back up here and in other games!

:hfive:

Elderbean
Jun 10, 2013


Wanted some input on my build. My computer is 6 going on 7 years old and with the exception of grabbing a new video card I haven't touched it since 2012.

I don't play games that much anymore and I generally use my computer for drawing and painting through photoshop (Although I'd like to mess with Zbrush eventually) I don't really care about pushing 120+Hz since I won't be doing much gaming and I don't want to spend a bunch of money on a new video card. I'd prefer 4k since it would give me lots of workspace.

Does this look alright? Seems like most of the cost will be going to the display. My graphics card is a 1060 and it's pretty much brand new so I don't see a need to replace it.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LjZRmq

Elderbean fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Mar 13, 2019

TorakFade
Oct 3, 2006

I strongly disapprove


Hi! Coming in for a sanity check. My old PC is currently used as a Netflix / basic web browsing box attached to the TV, but it's finally giving up the ghost. There's not much to salvage beyond the case and maybe ssd... PSU is 6 years old and had 5 years warranty, motherboard is dying, CPU and RAM are so old that it's not worth it.

What's the current minimum baseline for browsing, watching Netflix and YouTube, using gimp or similar image editing programs? I have to spend as little as possible, was thinking of a ryzen 2200g or 2400g with a basic b450 mobo, 450-550w PSU, 8gb ram... is there better bang for my buck?

Harik
Sep 9, 2001

From the hard streets of Moscow
First dog to touch the stars


Plaster Town Cop


Built and stable, but the ATX cable tangle is an eyesore. EVGA Supernova G3, has a tiny little segment before it hits heatshrink and it's not something I can just throw a comb on. Anyone ever mod theirs/get pre-modded cables? I have no idea where to even look.

e: I found them, but a basic cablemod set costs as much as the PSU did. I'll probably sleeve the worst offenders myself.

That's an idea, but I have't figured out how to get into that area on the Define S2 yet. It's gotta be accessible, people mount rads in there, but I didn't see an obvious way to remove it.
VVV

Harik fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Mar 13, 2019

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005

Harik posted:

Built and stable, but the ATX cable tangle is an eyesore. EVGA Supernova G3, has a tiny little segment before it hits heatshrink and it's not something I can just throw a comb on. Anyone ever mod theirs/get pre-modded cables? I have no idea where to even look.
One option here is just to get a nice looking generic extension cable and stuff the all excess cabling under the PSU shroud

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

TorakFade posted:

Hi! Coming in for a sanity check. My old PC is currently used as a Netflix / basic web browsing box attached to the TV, but it's finally giving up the ghost. There's not much to salvage beyond the case and maybe ssd... PSU is 6 years old and had 5 years warranty, motherboard is dying, CPU and RAM are so old that it's not worth it.

What's the current minimum baseline for browsing, watching Netflix and YouTube, using gimp or similar image editing programs? I have to spend as little as possible, was thinking of a ryzen 2200g or 2400g with a basic b450 mobo, 450-550w PSU, 8gb ram... is there better bang for my buck?

The NVidia Shield TV is pretty much baseline for a Netflix / web browsing / streaming box with a little more oomph than something like a Roxio or Chromecast. If you have a more powerful desktop with an NVidia GPU, you can stream a remote desktop for productivity apps. If not, you can get access to GIMP by installing Debian Linux.

I like this cheap 2200g, though I haven't tried it myself:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($87.99 @ Walmart)
Motherboard: MSI - B450I GAMING PLUS AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($122.00 @ B&H)
Memory: GeIL - EVO POTENZA 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($55.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Inwin - Chopin (Black) HTPC Case w/150 W Power Supply ($99.00 @ Amazon)
Total: $364.97

The Chopin apparently fits the stock cooler if you take off the little cover with the AMD logo.

Harik posted:



Built and stable, but the ATX cable tangle is an eyesore. EVGA Supernova G3, has a tiny little segment before it hits heatshrink and it's not something I can just throw a comb on. Anyone ever mod theirs/get pre-modded cables? I have no idea where to even look.

e: I found them, but a basic cablemod set costs as much as the PSU did. I'll probably sleeve the worst offenders myself.

That's an idea, but I have't figured out how to get into that area on the Define S2 yet. It's gotta be accessible, people mount rads in there, but I didn't see an obvious way to remove it.
VVV

I wish the ATX standard had put the ATX and CPU power connectors on the back of the motherboard in some standard spot accessible through a hole in the mounting plane. Heck, you could have the motherboard slot into a power delivery system built into the case.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Mar 13, 2019

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
Can I get a quick recommendation for a case that can hold this ATX motherboard, Asus Maximus VII Hero.

I'm looking for a cheap case that will hold that old mobo, 1 SSD, and 4 HDDs as I put new parts in my current case. I don't need a lot of features, just something reliable and hopefully no more than $100.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

Listerine posted:

Can I get a quick recommendation for a case that can hold this ATX motherboard, Asus Maximus VII Hero.

I'm looking for a cheap case that will hold that old mobo, 1 SSD, and 4 HDDs as I put new parts in my current case. I don't need a lot of features, just something reliable and hopefully no more than $100.

If you want to go as cheap as possible for something that's still a somewhat decent case, the Thermaltake Core G21 is currently $40 after rebate. The Fractal Design Focus G is a bit better case and comes with two fans but it's a bit more expensive. The white or blue versions are around $50, though. Otherwise, the Fractal Design Define C or Meshify C are standard recommendations, but they're right around $100.

justlikedunkirk
Dec 24, 2006
Finalized my build, after reading the thread I've decided to give Ryzen a try (after a decade+ of buying from Intel for CPUs). Just a little weary about the PSU but everything else I picked up based on recommendations in the thread, showing this in case someone sees this and tells me I'm making a big mistake with a part or something like it. Haven't done a build in over 6 years, hoping this will make for a nice, well-performing machine that'll support storage for my media and 1080p60 gaming whenever I want to play something.

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor

Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard

Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory

Storage: Crucial - MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate - Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 570 8 GB GAMING Video Card

Case: Fractal Design - Define R6 Black TG ATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

justlikedunkirk posted:

Finalized my build, after reading the thread I've decided to give Ryzen a try (after a decade+ of buying from Intel for CPUs). Just a little weary about the PSU but everything else I picked up based on recommendations in the thread, showing this in case someone sees this and tells me I'm making a big mistake with a part or something like it. Haven't done a build in over 6 years, hoping this will make for a nice, well-performing machine that'll support storage for my media and 1080p60 gaming whenever I want to play something.

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor

Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard

Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory

Storage: Crucial - MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate - Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 570 8 GB GAMING Video Card

Case: Fractal Design - Define R6 Black TG ATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

EVGA Supernova G2/3, Seasonic Focus plus, and Corsair RMi are all top shelf PSUs with 10 year warranties, so buy whichever of those is the cheapest, you can almost always find one of them for $50.

At 60fps you'll be fine with a 2600, and you can probably pick up a 3000 ram kit for around the same price, Ryzen prefers fast ram.

Harik
Sep 9, 2001

From the hard streets of Moscow
First dog to touch the stars


Plaster Town Cop
One thing I forgot to mention that people really should know - the VRM heatsinks on the x399 Taichi are razor sharp. In the "You can clean-shave with them if hefting this MB around was doable" meaning, not as hyporbole. I was fitting my CPU heatsink on when I pressed the edge with my knuckle - not slid along, pressed. Zero pain, lots of blood. Sharper than any 90's era case ever was.

I can't stress how surprisingly sharp they are enough. They're covered in a plastic film - leave the film on until you are finished building. I took it off when I thought I was done but I had to adjust my fan cable routing and that's when it nailed me.

TorakFade
Oct 3, 2006

I strongly disapprove


Stickman posted:

The NVidia Shield TV is pretty much baseline for a Netflix / web browsing / streaming box with a little more oomph than something like a Roxio or Chromecast. If you have a more powerful desktop with an NVidia GPU, you can stream a remote desktop for productivity apps. If not, you can get access to GIMP by installing Debian Linux.

I like this cheap 2200g, though I haven't tried it myself:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($87.99 @ Walmart)
Motherboard: MSI - B450I GAMING PLUS AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($122.00 @ B&H)
Memory: GeIL - EVO POTENZA 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($55.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Inwin - Chopin (Black) HTPC Case w/150 W Power Supply ($99.00 @ Amazon)
Total: $364.97

The Chopin apparently fits the stock cooler if you take off the little cover with the AMD logo.

Thanks! I'm not going with the Shield since it's not exactly cheap and I'd prefer a proper PC where I can install stuff etc (so my wife doesn't want to stream from my gaming PC while I'm playing when she wants to touch up holiday photos or something like that)

Honestly I am still undecided on the CPU, since my old GPU is still working perfectly (Sapphire Radeon 7870XT) and could reuse it, but I'm afraid it will catch on fire 1 day after I buy a CPU without integrated graphics and force me to spend an extra 100€ on a new discrete GPU. Also I prefer keeping upgrade options open so Intel is out of the question, especially with such a low budget (I don't have a fix budget but I really have to pinch pennies here)

here's what I have planned til now, prices from local Amazon:

CPU - Ryzen 2400g - 140€ (went for the 2400g because it's 4 core/8 thread, might be helpful, plus has a higher turbo and better iGPU if I ever fancy playing some simple game on it)
mobo - AsRock B450 Pro4 - 80€
RAM - DDR4 2x4GB 3000-3200Mhz - around 60€, brand will depend on pricing and availability at purchasing time
GPU - reusing my 7870XT until it croaks then/or just switching to the iGPU
Case - reusing my Corsair 500R
HDD/SDD - reusing 250GB Samsung 840 SSD + 1GB WD Blue
PSU - unsure if to reuse my XFX 550W (5 years warranty, is 6 years old this month) or get a new similar one for 60€


total around 280 - 340€ depending if I reuse psu or not. Can I do better somehow?

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

So my current job has me working from home most of the time and the folks I work with use Skype for all calls because they're monsters. What would be a decent desktop microphone that I could use to sound good/great in Skype calls? This doesn't have to be crazy audio nonsense, just something that sounds better than your average headset mic. If we were comparing this to a GPU, I'd be looking for the GTX 970 (say, 2016ish) of mics. "Sure you could do more/better, but this'll do ya." I think I would prefer USB so that I could take it with me to my main computer for mic related dumbassery after work is done.

Would the Blue Yeti/Yeti Micro be a good choice here? I have a podcast acquaintance that absolutely hates them, but he's pretty drat passionate about these sort of things. I have a stage mic with a USB adapter he lent me that honestly sounds just fine imo, but it's impractical to hold in meetings and I'm only borrowing it.

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stuxracer
May 4, 2006

Blue Yeti microphones are pretty good and even get good reviews from audiophile types so I don’t know what your friend is on about. There are of course steps up from there, but if you just want USB and simple they are pretty much the best you can get.

A bit overkill for conference calls and headset microphones can sound really good as well. I use one from Plantronics and it sounds great.

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