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That Italian Guy posted:Ah sorry, not owning a 3d printer I didn't think about the fact that you need the actual scan to print stuff out It's actually very rarely a scan at the moment. Most scans are of things like big statues and the resolution is pretty garbage. Luckily there's a bunch of talented 3D sculptors putting out amazing stuff gratis, or on Patreon - like these guys https://www.patreon.com/themakerscult/posts
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Mar 13, 2019 15:59
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Harkano posted:These are all amazing looking. I love the individually named Terminators. It's from Thingiverse, "alien thief" I think. Harkano posted:It's actually very rarely a scan at the moment. Most scans are of things like big statues and the resolution is pretty garbage. Makers Cult is awesome! That's where the chaplain I posted came from
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Mar 13, 2019 16:28
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Going to be painting up some various 1/100 and 1/72 scale WW2 stuff (Afrika Korps, 8th Army, Soviet tanks, etc.) for use in games like Tanks, FoW, and the Too Fat Lardies rules like Chain of Command. On a whim, I decided to give Stynylrez primers a try in hopes of speeding up the painting process, and ordered a couple (Neutral Yellow and Olive Green specifically). Thought I'd see what the thread's opinion was on the Stynylrez primers in general. I'll primarily be brushing them on, but sometime down the road I'll probably get a new airbrush setup, so at the moment I was just wondering what people's experiences were with using them as a brush-on primer (I've used Vallejo and AK Interactive primers before, with both brush and airbrush, so I was curious about the similarities/differences).
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Mar 13, 2019 16:34
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Finally received my Anvil Industry Daughters of The Burning Rose so I quickly knocked out the Inquisitor model while I'm deciding on a colour scheme for the rest (went with red on this as I had a Mephiston spray can I wanted to test.) It's a cool model but I think it's a bit too busy for my tastes. 
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Mar 13, 2019 20:55
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Moved house at the end of February and in the 2 weeks of no internet limbo I started the shadespire skaven warband. Went together real nice with the odd gap in the leaders cloak but altogether they're really nice mouldings. I hate the poo poo out of fleshtones but the zenithal looks nice, if a little much with the white.  Now all I need is more than this terrible 4g hotspot that gets less than 2mpbs because this thread takes a literal ice age to load with all the images.
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Mar 13, 2019 21:26
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Finished my first Plagueburst Crawler to a tabletop standard. The models are so busy I didn't want to muddy them up too much. Also, I'm really happy with how the flesh tubes turned out! Tried to make them look like it's sore & inflamed.   I might go back later and do some more detail work on it, but I want to get everything painted first. 3 models down, 50ish to go!
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Mar 13, 2019 21:55
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Zuul the Cat posted:Finished my first Plagueburst Crawler to a tabletop standard. The models are so busy I didn't want to muddy them up too much. Yeah dude, the "organic" bits look great. I have a crawler but I haven't even opened it yet, did you fully assemble it before painting? If not, how many pieces was it? I have a Blight Hauler, Lord of Corruption, and a few marines I want to get done by the end of the week before I get to the big guy.
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Mar 13, 2019 22:21
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Inspector_666 posted:Yeah dude, the "organic" bits look great. I have a crawler but I haven't even opened it yet, did you fully assemble it before painting? If not, how many pieces was it? Thanks! I fully assembled mine (all 3 of them, actually). For an easier time, I recommend not putting on the spiky rail bits on the top & leave off the side armaments. It'll make it easier to paint the hinge points for the side guns and painting the bottom metallics of the top rails would be easier this way as well. Part of the problem is it's hard to paint the inside of the top rails because of the curvature of the hull & the gun. It's just a bad angle.
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Mar 13, 2019 22:46
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goodness posted:It's from Thingiverse, "alien thief" I think.  You also get the fun of what people call stuff to avoid the GW Lawyers. Blue Space Communists etc.
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Mar 13, 2019 23:32
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Can someone please give me a recommended paintbrush set? Also, along with a written guide online on how to take proper care of your brushes because I have ruined my current brushes very quickly because i'm an idiot.
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Mar 14, 2019 02:22
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I said come in! posted:Can someone please give me a recommended paintbrush set? Also, along with a written guide online on how to take proper care of your brushes because I have ruined my current brushes very quickly because i'm an idiot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbCBdEjrFj8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeDwTY7C9xs From my own experience, even with the apparently dip in quality I still haven't found a brush I like more than WN Series 7.
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Mar 14, 2019 02:28
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I know this is legit because he is wearing a wolf howling at a moon shirt.
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Mar 14, 2019 02:29
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I said come in! posted:I know this is legit because he is wearing a wolf howling at a moon shirt. Oh hell yeah, Miniac is legit. His channel and the Hobby Cheating series by Vince Venturella were the two biggest helps when I was first learning the hobby. Also in case you didn't catch my edit above, from personal experience the WN Series 7 brushes are still the best.
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Mar 14, 2019 02:32
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holy hell the fumes on this Tamiya extra thin are insane and i say this after having just sealed my basement floor
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Mar 14, 2019 03:08
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New figure painted tonight. I am pretty happy with this one, but would welcome advice on how to make it better looking. Looking at it with the close up of my phone camera, I am sad about the light on the skull. I am also in need of better light source, I can't see poo poo on my monitor, it's better on my phone though. I really need to get a professional lightbox already. 
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Mar 14, 2019 04:00
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Going to be painting up some various 1/100 and 1/72 scale WW2 stuff (Afrika Korps, 8th Army, Soviet tanks, etc.) for use in games like Tanks, FoW, and the Too Fat Lardies rules like Chain of Command. On a whim, I decided to give Stynylrez primers a try in hopes of speeding up the painting process, and ordered a couple (Neutral Yellow and Olive Green specifically). Thought I'd see what the thread's opinion was on the Stynylrez primers in general. I'll primarily be brushing them on, but sometime down the road I'll probably get a new airbrush setup, so at the moment I was just wondering what people's experiences were with using them as a brush-on primer (I've used Vallejo and AK Interactive primers before, with both brush and airbrush, so I was curious about the similarities/differences). I've brushed on white and ebony flesh stynylrez primers along with vallejo black primer. The white is difficult to get good coverage even with multiple coats, and it takes so many coats of paint on top to get a smooth coat that it's pointless to brush on- might as well use a different primer. The ebony flesh and vallejo black cover great in one coat. I can't compare them to airbrushing, but I have found that spots that my fingers accidentally rub regularly while painting will come off down to plastic (will probably happen regardless of primers/application). That being said carefully picking up the models has not resulted in any paint coming off, and i would confidently handle any varnished mini. I said come in! posted:Can someone please give me a recommended paintbrush set? Also, along with a written guide online on how to take proper care of your brushes because I have ruined my current brushes very quickly because i'm an idiot. Some brushes are generally highly recommended are Rosemary & Co. series 33 and Rafael brushes 8404 along with Windsor Newton 7 series. A size 1 brush will do almost everything you need. These are made of Kolinsky sable and will hold a crisp point if taken care of. Going smaller than a size 1 is almost unnecessary because the point won't be any sharper, and it will hold less liquid and dry out faster. A number 2 brush can be nice for doing larger models and areas. Some others I've personally found to be OK are the citadel layer brushes and blick studio series sable brushes. Once you get the hang of brush control even cheap brushes with curved ends can do a lot. From what I've gathered citadel brushes are decent, but their artificer brushes are overpriced. Here is a good write up on citadel brushes and their uses: https://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/throwing-shade-part-3-brushing-up/ As far as taking care of brushes here are some tips: -Get some brush soap and use it between switching colors and at the end of painting sessions at the very least. Get in the habit of using it frequently. (General Pencil Company "The Masters" Brush Cleaner & Preserver is on amazon and in blick stores) Make sure there is adequate moisture on the brush, don't keep painting till you are practically drybrushing- just load up more paint (a personal bad habit). -Don't leave your brush sitting point down in your water pot. -Use a dedicated brush for metallics (or use them sparingly). They will wear out brushes faster. -Keep paint out of the ferrule (the metal bit holding the hairs)
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Mar 14, 2019 04:09
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.I said come in! posted:New figure painted tonight. I am pretty happy with this one, but would welcome advice on how to make it better looking. Looking at it with the close up of my phone camera, I am sad about the light on the skull. I am also in need of better light source, I can't see poo poo on my monitor, it's better on my phone though. I really need to get a professional lightbox already. Looks good! I have one of these guys to paint at some point as well. I haven't painted anything metal yet, how different was it?
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Mar 14, 2019 05:39
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So question for scale 75 paint users. Is it even possible to paint sharp, thin lines with this stuff? It's great for blending but it feels like once I thin it down enough to flow off the brush well, even with flow improver, it becomes too translucent to make good lines.
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Mar 14, 2019 09:07
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I bought the Games & Gears set and the brush quality seems okay. Not sure it's worth the price but the brushes have a lifetime warranty and they have their own caps. I bought a bunch of W&N S7s years ago so that's the level of quality I am used to. I painted my entire Regal Skulls army using one set of brushes.
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Mar 14, 2019 12:22
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crazystray posted:. This was the plastic one. I know there is a metal one still available though but I read bad things about the quality.
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Mar 14, 2019 12:42
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The Moon Monster posted:So question for scale 75 paint users. Is it even possible to paint sharp, thin lines with this stuff? It's great for blending but it feels like once I thin it down enough to flow off the brush well, even with flow improver, it becomes too translucent to make good lines. I can see why you’d have trouble, they are quite translucent paints to start with and I think designed with layering techniques in mind. If I’m edge highlighting or pulling lines I tend to use Citadel or Vallejo unless I can build the highlight up neatly over a few coats.
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Mar 14, 2019 13:20
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Getting this figure in the mail today and looking forward to painting the cat.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQDT0J0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Mar 14, 2019 15:49
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I said come in! posted:New figure painted tonight. I am pretty happy with this one, but would welcome advice on how to make it better looking. Looking at it with the close up of my phone camera, I am sad about the light on the skull. I am also in need of better light source, I can't see poo poo on my monitor, it's better on my phone though. I really need to get a professional lightbox already. Nice! The red looks really clean. I'd say maybe some color on the black parts of the axe? Or leave it mostly black but pick out some of the little details in metal colors?
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Mar 14, 2019 15:56
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I said come in! posted:New figure painted tonight. I am pretty happy with this one, but would welcome advice on how to make it better looking. Looking at it with the close up of my phone camera, I am sad about the light on the skull. I am also in need of better light source, I can't see poo poo on my monitor, it's better on my phone though. I really need to get a professional lightbox already. The symbol of the Omnissah needs decorating!
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Mar 14, 2019 16:00
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TotalHell posted:Nice! The red looks really clean. I see a lot of people use a grey or white paint and gently add that to the edges of black pieces, something like that? Inspector_666 posted:The symbol of the Omnissah needs decorating! Ooh god I don't know, i'm scared of messing that up, it's so tiny.  I agree with you though! But it's so small for me.
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Mar 14, 2019 16:00
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I said come in! posted:Ooh god I don't know, i'm scared of messing that up, it's so tiny. I know the "canonical" scheme is the opposing black and white, but I do mine up entirely in gold, skull and cog and I think it looks pretty cool and properly honorific. You should do something with it though, it's a big centrally located detail! This was taken pre-cleanup/pre-shading and I should probably go back and hit more details (and his backpack still isn't done even now) but just to give you an idea of what I mean.  All of the marks of the Omnissiah are painted gold across every unit in the army, too, which I think helps tie them together.
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Mar 14, 2019 16:18
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Inspector_666 posted:I know the "canonical" scheme is the opposing black and white, but I do mine up entirely in gold, skull and cog and I think it looks pretty cool and properly honorific. You should do something with it though, it's a big centrally located detail! I really like what you did with this! That gives me some ideas of how to make mine look more interesting, thank you!
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Mar 14, 2019 17:14
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I said come in! posted:Ooh god I don't know, i'm scared of messing that up, it's so tiny. Your work looks great, and I doubt you'll have any trouble with the Omnissiah's skull  Just slap a tiny drop of Agrax Earthshade on the white bits, and you're good to go.
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Mar 14, 2019 17:18
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I said come in! posted:I really like what you did with this! That gives me some ideas of how to make mine look more interesting, thank you! The biggest thing for me when it comes to my AdMech is that similar elements get the same color across a model/army. It's a bigger deal for me because I'm not very technically gifted, so it's a good way to catch the eye that doesn't require a lot of highlighting or anything, but also since my dudes are Stygies there can be a lot of black that I want to break up.
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Mar 14, 2019 17:18
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Here's my first five Vanguards I just finished. I always notice so many mistakes when I look at a high res image.... I also feel like now I need to go spruce up the chest cogs, maybe I'll do copper.
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Mar 14, 2019 18:58
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Inspector_666 posted:I know the "canonical" scheme is the opposing black and white, but I do mine up entirely in gold, skull and cog and I think it looks pretty cool and properly honorific. You should do something with it though, it's a big centrally located detail! I did basically the same with mine--all cog/skulls in my army are painted gold. I dont' have a great direct shot but I used the vallejo luquid gold and it really stands out, I think.  
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Mar 14, 2019 19:45
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I said come in! posted:I see a lot of people use a grey or white paint and gently add that to the edges of black pieces, something like that? Agreeing with others' comments on the symbol, and yeah you could go for some edge highlighting. I actually can't quite tell from the picture, is the red cloak edge-highlighted or no?
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Mar 14, 2019 19:51
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TotalHell posted:Agreeing with others' comments on the symbol, and yeah you could go for some edge highlighting. I actually can't quite tell from the picture, is the red cloak edge-highlighted or no? Not edge highlighted no. Also, here is todays figure painted. He looks way cooler in person, the camera / lighting takes out all of the shine and how great the gold looks. 
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Mar 14, 2019 20:29
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Two quick questions: Who makes the best metallic paints nowadays? I haven't painted in a while and I used to use GW's stuff but I always hated how chunky their metal pigments were, it felt like I could never get smooth coverage no matter how I thinned it. and Does anyone have a go-to video tutorial for wet blending / loaded brush blending that really shows off the technique? In the past I had pretty good success with glaze blending, but it take loving forever and I'd really like to find a way to speed up the blending process, so it's probably time I learn how to blend for real.
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Mar 14, 2019 20:45
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I worked on robes last night:  (Xerxeus, Naggaroth for darker parts, Genestealer for highlights) I'm not super happy with it. The video I followed suggests the violet shade in the deep recesses to finish, I'm not 100% on board with that. I think I'll finish up the model and then decide.
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Mar 14, 2019 20:51
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Two quick questions: Scale75 makes the best Golds/Bronze. Really good. I haven't found any super amazing Iron/Steel, there a bunch of specialty brands and lines, they all feel about the same to me. Honestly can't rate a single one as being much better.
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Mar 14, 2019 20:52
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Professor Shark posted:I worked on robes last night: I smashed my head in doing purple robes on Mortarion. Highlighting purple and red is hard, because it really starts becoming *not* purple and *not* red. That's why it is so common to go really dark when shading them, because you're ability to create the contrast through highlights is so limited. I shaded purple into a blue-black in the deep folds, and highlight up by mixing in bright/light blue, if you mix in just white it gets really pastel like, I save that as an edge type highlight only. 
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Mar 14, 2019 21:00
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I hear the vallejo metal colour range are exceedingly nice but might not have the selection of colour for mini painting.
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Mar 14, 2019 21:01
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I hear the vallejo metal colour range are exceedingly nice but might not have the selection of colour for mini painting. Vallejo really likes making product lines with the acronym VMC, huh?
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Mar 14, 2019 21:05
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Mugaaz posted:I smashed my head in doing purple robes on Mortarion. Highlighting purple and red is hard, because it really starts becoming *not* purple and *not* red. That's why it is so common to go really dark when shading them, because you're ability to create the contrast through highlights is so limited. I shaded purple into a blue-black in the deep folds, and highlight up by mixing in bright/light blue, if you mix in just white it gets really pastel like, I save that as an edge type highlight only. Show more! Want to see all of this sick Morty. Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 21:10
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