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Harvey Mantaco posted:Show more! Want to see all if this sick Morty. Album here if you want to see it : https://imgur.com/gallery/ylxQk Sultan Tarquin posted:I hear the vallejo metal colour range are exceedingly nice but might not have the selection of colour for mini painting. It is good, but I didn't understand why people are gushing about it.
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Mar 14, 2019 21:13
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Like I said a few posts up, I really like the vallejo liquid gold. It's kind of a pain to use, because you have to thin it with alcohol, it requires extensive mixing AND you need to use a synthetic brush, but it always applies super smooth and easy for me. I'm going to try and get a couple other colours from their liquid line and try them too.
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Mar 14, 2019 21:17
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Seldom Posts posted:Like I said a few posts up, I really like the vallejo liquid gold. It's kind of a pain to use, because you have to thin it with alcohol, it requires extensive mixing AND you need to use a synthetic brush, but it always applies super smooth and easy for me. Is this really worth the hassle? I can use scale 75 golds without needing to perform a religious ceremony first.
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Mar 14, 2019 21:21
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I don't have experience with anything besides Citadel and AP, but the Citadel metals seem good. They're sparkly and with the exception of Leadbelcher they seem to behave like any other paint when it comes to thinning and whatnot. I guess they cost more than most other options? (And even Leadbelcher is fine, it just thickens/separates way easier than the rest when you're working with it over a longish period.)
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Mar 14, 2019 21:26
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It looks like GW paints have completely been revamped since the last time I used them, but for the old ones at least my issue was always that they were thick as hell, but they had huge metallic pigments so if you thinned them the pigments would spread out so much that coverage turned to poo poo and you'd get a sort of gritty texture.
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Mar 14, 2019 21:37
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Two quick questions: I like Vallejo for 3 reasons: Liquid Gold series - alcohol-based, dry very fast (for better or worse), finicky to apply (can't correct brush strokes until the paint dry or you'll gently caress up the surface), but excellent metallic color and great coverage. Liquid Metal series - water-based, a bit more demanding than your standard acrylic but also prettier. Kinda in the middle between plain acrylic metallics and Liquid Golds. Vallejo Model Air 71.065 Steel (this one specific paint) - smoooth pigment, great for airbrushing and handbrushing, very strong color of... polished aluminum? Too strong/bright for normal metals, but awesome for mixing into highlights. Very strongly metallic, so you can mix it with normal colored paints and get nice colored metal instead of that flaky poo poo you'd get using metallic medium. Grizzled Patriarch posted:It looks like GW paints have completely been revamped since the last time I used them, but for the old ones at least my issue was always that they were thick as hell, but they had huge metallic pigments so if you thinned them the pigments would spread out so much that coverage turned to poo poo and you'd get a sort of gritty texture.
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Mar 14, 2019 21:56
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Pierzak posted:I like Vallejo for 3 reasons: That VMA Steel sounds great, I'll have to pick that up for sure. That's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, but in a darker iron color - something close to Boltgun that goes on really smooth. And oof, definitely not gonna bother with GW's stuff if the new paints are even worse.
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Mar 15, 2019 00:28
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:That VMA Steel sounds great, I'll have to pick that up for sure. That's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, but in a darker iron color - something close to Boltgun that goes on really smooth.
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Mar 15, 2019 00:41
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Pierzak posted:There's a gunmetal VMA paint, but I'm not that fond of it. I use Army Painter Gunmetal, it's nice, smooth and just a tiny bit brown that warms the color. I've heard mixed things about recent AP paints though, so YMMV. IMO the Army Painter metallics are better than their standard paints. I'd rate them above Vallejo Model Color at any rate.
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Mar 15, 2019 01:26
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I think this looks terrible. The boxy metal part just kind of melds into his chest. How does this look?  
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Mar 15, 2019 01:37
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I just assumed it's form-fitting to the belt and his arms. Bulky, though.
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Mar 15, 2019 02:27
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TheBigAristotle posted:I just assumed it's form-fitting to the belt and his arms. Bulky, though. So good idea to add the knife or bad idea?
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Mar 15, 2019 02:41
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Well, February was awful, but one upside was that I finally got an opportunity to prime some one minis, and I started working on the Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought        It's probably taking a longer time than it should because I'm using a pretty small brush as opposed to something larger (I don't have one of those big base brushes or whatever they're called).  It might be hard to tell because of the lighting, but there are some spots where the grey primer still shows through a bit, but it's coming along. I've got two issues with moving forward, though. First is withing doing the rest of the red. I'm doing Blood Angel colors, so (and maybe this was a bad idea) in addition to the Mephiston Red I've been working with, I picked up Evil Sunz Scarlet and Fire Dragon Bright (I've got Army Painter Strong Tone for the shade). However, I don't actually know how I should apply it. I've tried looking for tutorials, but most pertain to airbrushing or don't really cover the Dreadnoughts. Evil Sunz Scarlet is a layer paint, so my thought would be to cover the flat areas I've done in Mephiston Red, since the layer paints dry transparent. However, the WHTV tutorial for Blood Angels makes it look like you only Evil Sunz on the edge highlights (which I guess makes Fire Dragon Bright a further edge highlight). With the shade, it looks like rather than applying it all over, you just apply to the crevices/edges/etc. to accentuate those areas. The second (less critical issue) is with doing the gold bits. I don't think I have any gold paints left, so I was going to get some to do the aquila and other bits that needed it. However, I'm not sure whether to do the Balthasar/Gehenna Gold combo, or to do Retributor Armor. I'm leaning more towards Retributor, since it's a much brighter gold. What I also want to know is if it's advisable to buy paints from Amazon. I don't want to swing by GW because it's a bit of a hassle to get to (among other reasons), and I have credit on Amazon I was going to use to get brush soap anyway. However, I've been hesitant about buying paint from Amazon, partially because sometime there are negative reviews on some paints, and because I'm not sure where it's coming from exactly. Both of those points are pretty unimportant, but I just wanted to ask if it was recommended.  Shorter version: I don't know how to paint the other red layers, and I don't know if I should buy paint from Amazon.
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Mar 15, 2019 02:49
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You could go down the route of layering the highlights, but it's tough to get it right on such flat surfaces with just a brush. I'd probably lean more towards 'eavier metal style and just do a base coat, apply your quickshade in the shadows and recesses, then edge highlight and/or dry brush the highlight colors along the edges. The fire dragon bright should be used as a second highlight only along the corners and brightest edges. RE: gold, definitely get retributor armor, it's one of my favorite metallics and looks really great with a wash of reikland fleshshade or druichi violet over top. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Mar 15, 2019 |
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Mar 15, 2019 02:55
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Max Wilco posted:Well, February was awful, but one upside was that I finally got an opportunity to prime some one minis, and I started working on the Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought I wouldn't buy paints on Amazon (right now) because it is winter and most acrylic paints are permanently ruined if they get near freezing. Highlighting red sucks huge rear end. You also have a model thats basically all flat panels. Not gonna look great if you just layer a brighter red on top with zero blending. I'd stick with the edge highlights and putting shade in the recesses (dont put it on the flat panels).
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Mar 15, 2019 06:53
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So good idea to add the knife or bad idea? If you like your knife, you can keep it
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Mar 15, 2019 16:53
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Quick question so that I can get what I need for painting the new black legion stuff, what colours would you guys recommend for edge highlighting the black armour? I've only really highlighted black with eshin grey to dawnstone before but it seems like a good time to experiment. Doesn't have to be restricted to citadel colours.
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Mar 15, 2019 17:15
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Painted some Descent dudes. Can't make white not chalky. 
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Mar 15, 2019 17:56
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Painted some Descent dudes. Can't make white not chalky. These figures are super cute and pretty! 
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Mar 15, 2019 18:16
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Mr Teatime posted:Quick question so that I can get what I need for painting the new black legion stuff, what colours would you guys recommend for edge highlighting the black armour? I've only really highlighted black with eshin grey to dawnstone before but it seems like a good time to experiment. Doesn't have to be restricted to citadel colours. P3 coal black 
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Mar 15, 2019 18:30
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Here's a trick (yeah, yeah, one simple trick. Pro painters are going to hate me, yadda yadda) to highlighting red: once you've gone from your deepest red and highlighted up to your brightest red, find those areas where you want your most extreme highlights. On those areas, put down a thin line/drop/splotch of white. Once that's dry, go back over it with your brightest red thinned to a glaze consistency. The white underneath will give you a highlight that is brighter than your highlight red over your darker base. Works like a charm and produces red highlights that really pop.
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Mar 15, 2019 19:22
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Tried out GreenStuffWorld's Temple rolling pin last night. Really like how this works, so it's going to be my basing scheme for Space Marines/Guard, if I ever get around to making one of those armies. The only thing I don't like is that you can see the machine tooling on all the raised areas, but those should be easy to smooth over before it cures.
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Mar 15, 2019 19:35
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Ilor posted:Here's a trick (yeah, yeah, one simple trick. Pro painters are going to hate me, yadda yadda) to highlighting red: once you've gone from your deepest red and highlighted up to your brightest red, find those areas where you want your most extreme highlights. On those areas, put down a thin line/drop/splotch of white. Once that's dry, go back over it with your brightest red thinned to a glaze consistency. The white underneath will give you a highlight that is brighter than your highlight red over your darker base. Works like a charm and produces red highlights that really pop. Can you post an example?
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Mar 15, 2019 20:54
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What size brush do you guys recommend for doing basecoats on regular human-sized units? I can't ever tell how big brushes are from the pictures online - I'd like something that I can get some decent coverage with while still being able to block out a bit of detail if I need to. I'm guessing a size 1 or 2?
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Mar 15, 2019 21:03
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:I'm guessing a size 1 or 2? 1 should be fine for any duty, not just basecoat. 2 if you have to paint larger surfaces.
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Mar 15, 2019 21:15
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Max Wilco posted:Well, February was awful, but one upside was that I finally got an opportunity to prime some one minis, and I started working on the Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought This might be helpful, since dreads and more like vehicles than infantry. There's also a redemptor dreadnought how-to video but it's in ultramarines colors. https://youtu.be/iKhIQ1TL2FM
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Mar 15, 2019 23:28
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Duct Tape posted:Tried out GreenStuffWorld's Temple rolling pin last night. Really like how this works, so it's going to be my basing scheme for Space Marines/Guard, if I ever get around to making one of those armies. The only thing I don't like is that you can see the machine tooling on all the raised areas, but those should be easy to smooth over before it cures. These are really cute. Well done buddy
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Mar 16, 2019 03:57
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Mugaaz posted:I wouldn't buy paints on Amazon (right now) because it is winter and most acrylic paints are permanently ruined if they get near freezing. Okay, well I guess I'll only get the brush soap on Amazon, and then just swing by GW when I can. Legendary Ptarmigan posted:This might be helpful, since dreads and more like vehicles than infantry. There's also a redemptor dreadnought how-to video but it's in ultramarines colors. The issue with that Blood Angels Rhino video is that he does it all with a drybrush and uses the Kindleflame drybrush paint, whereas I have the layer paints. I did find it interesting, since I didn't think you could apply the paint directly on with a drybrush and without applying water. The same goes for the Redemptor tutorial video, where it's a drybrush technique for the highlighting, which makes me think I should have bought drybrush paints instead. Still, I can get drybrush paint as well when I go to GW, and the layer paints will still help with the BA marines I've yet to put together (and the Skitarii Start Collecting I bought a while ago...and maybe with the SOBs I'll buy when they get released...and maybe with the Mark III Marines I'll inevitably buy at some point...  )
Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Mar 16, 2019 04:29
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You can drybrush with any paint. You just have to work it into the tissue so you have very little paint on your drybrush. Also never drybrush with a brush you want to use for anything else ever.
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Mar 16, 2019 05:04
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Are you supposed to rinse out your brush after drybrushing? I do but I'm not sure if it is really making a difference or not.
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Mar 16, 2019 05:56
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Would a little baking soda mixed with PVC glue and hit with varnish at the end be sturdy enough for a tabletop mini or would it be too fragile / crumbly? Kinda want to play around with using it to add texture but it would be for a D&D mini that would get handled.
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Mar 16, 2019 06:09
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TheBigAristotle posted:Can you post an example?
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Mar 16, 2019 06:21
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Mikey Purp posted:Are you supposed to rinse out your brush after drybrushing? I do but I'm not sure if it is really making a difference or not. I wash my drybrush with brush soap when i'm done with that colour. I'm not sure if i'm supposed to or not, but its what I do. Only thing you gotta remember is that the brush has to be dry when you use it. I know it sounds obvious but dry brushing needs dry brushes.
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Mar 16, 2019 06:50
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https://www.miniaturemarket.com/pip31139.html what paints would I need to paint this good boy?
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Mar 16, 2019 07:09
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Max Wilco posted:Okay, well I guess I'll only get the brush soap on Amazon, and then just swing by GW when I can. I think perhaps you might be getting too hung up on how gw describes their paints. I really wouldn't worry about any practical difference between 'base' and 'layer' paints and you certainly don't need their drybrush paints to drybrush a thing. I quite literally don't even know what the 'edge' paints have going on with them that would make them special for edge highlighting.
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Mar 16, 2019 10:20
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Duct Tape posted:Tried out GreenStuffWorld's Temple rolling pin last night. Really like how this works, so it's going to be my basing scheme for Space Marines/Guard, if I ever get around to making one of those armies. The only thing I don't like is that you can see the machine tooling on all the raised areas, but those should be easy to smooth over before it cures. Those look amazing and I want to buy one. Do you just roll out the pattern on green stuff and then cut it out for the bases, or is it applied directly onto the bases?
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Mar 16, 2019 10:34
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Mr Teatime posted:I think perhaps you might be getting too hung up on how gw describes their paints. I really wouldn't worry about any practical difference between 'base' and 'layer' paints and you certainly don't need their drybrush paints to drybrush a thing. I quite literally don't even know what the 'edge' paints have going on with them that would make them special for edge highlighting. I have personally been told by a GW store owner that certain paints are actually the exact same color( ryza rust and jokero orange for example). They are just different consistencies.
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Mar 16, 2019 12:15
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I run cleaner into my airbrush shortly before, always between colors, and after I'm done. Still I often find residue on my needle, behind the aperture or whatever, the needle-hole, and it usually involves removing the needle and wiping it down. It's not enough paint to hinder usage, but everything is eventually buildup, so I try to stay on top of it. Anything that can be done to prevent this? For the record, I'm using a Vallejo air paint, in this case Medium Yellow
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Mar 16, 2019 13:33
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First attempt on a blanchitsu style faun mini. Ain't going to lie, I may have been on a Guillermo del Toro binge recently. Still a WIP, but I'm old and my back hurts so that'll do for tonight. 
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Mar 16, 2019 13:35
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That's sweet! I've painted a Reaper of Alahan from Confrontation. I'm happy about the red and blue, the white is still very messy. A lot of stuff is messy, to be real...I'll try and get a picture with a dark background instead of a white one and see if it looks better. 
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Mar 16, 2019 13:44
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