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I've mounted that kind of stuff with strong double sided tape, you don't really need the brackets.
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Mar 3, 2019 21:02
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Mimesweeper posted:I've mounted that kind of stuff with strong double sided tape, you don't really need the brackets. In a kitchen? I feel like heat and humidity would cause the tape to gradually fail.
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Mar 3, 2019 21:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:In a kitchen? I feel like heat and humidity would cause the tape to gradually fail. If they have nobody's ever called my boss about it, and we stopped doing residential work a really long time ago. You just have to get good quality tape and clean and prep the surfaces so there's solid adhesion.
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Mar 3, 2019 21:09
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dalstrs posted:Been debating between that and something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L7E4LMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Well, if you use the ones i linked there is this little thing available: https://german.alibaba.com/product-detail/12v-24v-led-strip-touch-switch-dimmable-led-light-touch-dimmer-60172870245.html It goes below the plastic cover and then works with magic. Just tap on the cover to turn it on/off, keep your finger on it to dim it up/down. If you want the safest option, I'd go for that. I installed some of them already and except for the plastic cover that was a bitch to put on it's a good system. Also it will work with the provided power supply so no additional stuff needed. Mimesweeper posted:I've mounted that kind of stuff with strong double sided tape, you don't really need the brackets.
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Mar 3, 2019 21:15
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I've got stuff mounted inside the work area of CNC grinding machines with foam tape that's held up for 2 years. Quality tape and surface prep are everything, I like a thorough alcohol wipedown + drying time and 3M VHB in either polyurethane or silicone base foam. Also you would be shocked to learn how much of your car is held together with it.
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Mar 3, 2019 21:19
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I think mounting isn't that hard, I'll probably use a combo of the tape and some additional clips to hold it up.
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Mar 3, 2019 21:50
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I discussed this a while back, but now here are pictures (before I fixed this and grounded this switch): Plastic box and the grounds uselessly wired together. The old switches were not made with grounding terminals hence my top to bottom replacement. This is a "good" box since there's room to work in, but many switches were used in junctions. Upstairs, though...the old NM wire to the switches was kept so none of them have grounding, nor can they be grounded without new lines so for now they'll have to remain that way. Frustrating to suss out all the problems but I can say the house is much safer now than when I moved in.
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Mar 4, 2019 03:56
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dalstrs posted:I am trying to install LED lighting under the cabinets in my kitchen and wanted to see if there are any suggestions and ask advice on the power part of the project. Here's a similar driver: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tri...sAbTest=ae803_4 Honestly though the best thing to do if you're driving these LED strips is to use a PWM dimmer https://www.aspectled.com/products/...JqD_D_BwE#tab-1
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Mar 4, 2019 04:26
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Here's a similar driver: If I use that switch won't I have to run DC into the gang box to wire it up? I also like the idea of a waterproof transformer since it will be 2 feet from the stove and I don't want to have to worry about steam or anything getting in there and messing it up.
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Mar 4, 2019 16:39
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Yeah put your 12/24v power supply under the sink or then feed low voltage to your gang box with a divider. Honestly it's up to you. There are two ways to do LED dimming, constant current (which is the driver you posted) and PWM (which is basically just flipping the LED on/off thousands of times per second). PWM gives you really fine tuned control of brightness levels depending on the dimmer, while a constant current driver needs to have it's maximum output power matched to the maximum current rating of your LED strip so that you don't overdrive/underdrive them.
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Mar 4, 2019 17:15
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Not sure if there's a lighting specific thread, so I'll ask here: Quick follow-up. Can someone point me to the proper Dimmer switch to use with these? The one I got from Home Depot could not be used, according to my electrician-in-training buddy. (I believe this is the one I bought for them: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...PH-WH/203490337) I'd love the switch to be illuminated in the dark, but I can't seem to find any dimmers that do that. Not a deal breaker if it doesn't have it.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:28
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Quick follow-up. Can someone point me to the proper Dimmer switch to use with these? The one I got from Home Depot could not be used, according to my electrician-in-training buddy. (I believe this is the one I bought for them: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...PH-WH/203490337) I don't see why it's literally in the product brochure: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/25/25d3301e-b5c7-4043-be9b-cf5d6567ce19.pdf "Lutron Diva C.L. Wall Mountable Dimmers" Unless that T8/T9 thing is super important. Otherwise just buy a different dimmer from Home Depot. They definitely have one that will work.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:38
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Any diva you buy in a store today should be t9, they've been released for years so dont worry too much about that.
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Mar 5, 2019 00:16
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Yeah put your 12/24v power supply under the sink or then feed low voltage to your gang box with a divider. I like the idea of doing it that way but I am not sure how I would snake the wire from the gang box to below the sink. There is a window above the sink and don't those have studs that I would have to go through?
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Mar 5, 2019 04:12
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I want to move my thermostat. It takes up a living room wall that could be used for decoration. I want to move it to the entry hallway where it’s much more central on the first floor. It won’t get sun or blown on from any vents. It’s just a simple 4-wire cable and I’m technically moving it closer to the furnace, so I’ll have plenty of slack to work with. Plan is to turn off the hvac with its switch, document, disconnect, then move the cable to where I want it and reconnect. Anything else I should consider?
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Mar 6, 2019 14:11
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devmd01 posted:I want to move my thermostat. It takes up a living room wall that could be used for decoration. I want to move it to the entry hallway where it’s much more central on the first floor. It won’t get sun or blown on from any vents. If you gently caress up the wire in the wall how sad are you going to be for a few days while you get it fixed? Basically is the winter mild around you?
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Mar 6, 2019 16:25
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Yeah, personally I'd pull brand new wire (preferably 7 conductor for future needs.) Thermostat wire is thin and usually solid (not stranded), thus brittle and prone to getting breaks in it when pulled/bent. You might be potentially introducing some frustration caused by bad wires just to save a few bucks.
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Mar 6, 2019 16:44
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B-Nasty posted:Yeah, personally I'd pull brand new wire (preferably 7 conductor for future needs.) Thermostat wire is thin and usually solid (not stranded), thus brittle and prone to getting breaks in it when pulled/bent. You might be potentially introducing some frustration caused by bad wires just to save a few bucks. Plus you can complete the run without disconnecting anything and just swap the thermostat and furnace connections once everything is in place for minimal downtime.
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Mar 6, 2019 20:20
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devmd01 posted:I want to move my thermostat. It takes up a living room wall that could be used for decoration. I want to move it to the entry hallway where it’s much more central on the first floor. It won’t get sun or blown on from any vents. You can't put a thermostat just anywhere. For instance, it's not a good idea to put it where the sun can shine directly on it. Exterior walls are a no no as well. You might want to ask in the HVAC thread here in DIY for placement advice. Also, I'd run at least a 5 wire new cable, to take advantage of that extra neutral wire so you can run the most fancypants thermostats in the future and not have to ever swap batteries. They make 7 wire thermostat cable also if you really want to future proof.
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Mar 7, 2019 00:41
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I’m looking at replacing a big ole 36” exhaust fan for my shop and trying to figure out the best way to go about having variable speed on a 2HP 220 AC induction motor. I have 3 phase power and could get the fan with a 3 phase motor and a a variable frequency drive, but VFDs seem a bit expensive and I don’t have a ton of space left in my 3 phase panel so I’d rather run it single phase. It’s my understanding that single phase motors don’t like VFDs-is there a way to run a single phase 220 motor variable speed? I think in summer I’m going to need to run this fan full blast, but it’s fairly noisy so I’d like to be able to slow it down when I don’t need it running full speed. I’d like to mount the VFD/control on the wall and then run from there to the motor up in the gable end. Is there a better/cheaper way to do this and keep it single phase? If I’m already getting a VFD would I be just as well off to use the inverter to turn single phase into 3 phase, or are there other advantages to keeping it all 3 phase? I’d have to do a new 100’ run of wiring for 3 phase whereas there is already a 20A 220 circuit right where the fan will go.
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Mar 12, 2019 03:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’m looking at replacing a big ole 36” exhaust fan for my shop and trying to figure out the best way to go about having variable speed on a 2HP 220 AC induction motor. I have 3 phase power and could get the fan with a 3 phase motor and a a variable frequency drive, but VFDs seem a bit expensive and I don’t have a ton of space left in my 3 phase panel so I’d rather run it single phase. It’s my understanding that single phase motors don’t like VFDs-is there a way to run a single phase 220 motor variable speed? I think in summer I’m going to need to run this fan full blast, but it’s fairly noisy so I’d like to be able to slow it down when I don’t need it running full speed. I’d like to mount the VFD/control on the wall and then run from there to the motor up in the gable end. TBH, a VFD is probably the way to go. It looks like 20A single phase is sufficient, and yeah, you'd run a 3-phase motor with a single-phase feed. Single-phase motors can play nicely with VFDs, but they're usually expensive. Look at the new brushless motors, too; there are vent motors in the 2HP range for the newer air handler units that are continuously variable. You could also wire up a dual-voltage contactor setup if you get a six-lead 3-phase motor. There are a couple of different wiring configurations that get you two speeds; Start in wye, switch to delta, start in parallel wye, go to series wye, start in open delta, go to closed delta. There are options. However, contactors being what they are, it's probably cheaper just to get the VFD and have a wide range of variable speed.
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Mar 12, 2019 07:41
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I have three switches for my bathroom. The top left turns on and off the mirror light, the top right turns on and off the bathroom light while the big button on the bottom controls the fan. Looks like this - https://imgur.com/5GqqXXV In the last week or so, when I press the top right button to turn on the light in my bathroom, I can hear a little crackling sometimes behind the switch and sometimes the light will not turn on. What's the issue here and I'm assuming I will have to remove the light switch. How would you recommend I go about this? There are no screws that I can see.
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Mar 16, 2019 10:28
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Busy Bee posted:I have three switches for my bathroom. The top left turns on and off the mirror light, the top right turns on and off the bathroom light while the big button on the bottom controls the fan. Sounds like the switch has broken or a wires come loose. After you TURN THE BREAKER OFF, take the switch off and tighten all the wires down and reattach any free wire you find. Should be super easy, but I'm not familiar with that type of switch so I can't say for sure what it looks like inside.
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Mar 16, 2019 14:08
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SpartanIvy posted:Sounds like the switch has broken or a wires come loose. Are you suggesting that he should connect every wire that is found in the box to the switch or am I misreading you here? Because that would be terrible advice.
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Mar 16, 2019 15:55
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SpartanIvy posted:Sounds like the switch has broken or a wires come loose. And verify 0 volts inside the box. Turning a random breaker off means nothing until you verify there isn't any voltage in the box. Even if it worked last time.
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Mar 16, 2019 16:01
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Busy Bee posted:I have three switches for my bathroom. The top left turns on and off the mirror light, the top right turns on and off the bathroom light while the big button on the bottom controls the fan. Put a small flat screwdriver below the switches and just "pop" them off. If that doesn't work, try it from the side. Inside you should find a screw on the left and right side that loosens the metallic hooks that keep the switch in place. Now you can pull it out. I'd say a contact was bad and now burned off the cable. Can you see a piece of copper stuck somewhere in the connection points of the switch? If yes, you may be able to find the matching cable by it's burned tip or just the general position it is in. Reattach. If you are not sure what cable it is, don't go on without measuring them.
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Mar 16, 2019 16:05
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RabbitWizard posted:Are you suggesting that he should connect every wire that is found in the box to the switch or am I misreading you here? Because that would be terrible advice. Maybe my house is the oddity but I've never opened up an electrical box and had loose wires, or at least more than one. So if there are any loose wires they should go to the spot on the switch missing a wire. I feel like this is pretty simple logic.
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Mar 16, 2019 16:10
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SpartanIvy posted:Maybe my house is the oddity but I've never opened up an electrical box and had loose wires, or at least more than one. So if there are any loose wires they should go to the spot on the switch missing a wire. I feel like this is pretty simple logic. Maybe that was from a time where each wire was pulled individually because it was more expensive? That's my best guess. Or it was planned really well. So, normal modern installations (in Germany) run 3 or 5-wire cables. So you get unused wires if you need 2,4,7,etc. Sometimes you find cables than once had a function, but then weren't needed any more, so they got disconnected. There are tons of ways how it can happen that you have a not connected cable. Attaching them without knowing what they are doing is dangerous. Ninjaedit: I agree to your conclusion if there is one wire not connected and all other connections look fine. 
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Mar 16, 2019 16:19
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RabbitWizard posted:So, normal modern installations (in Germany) run 3 or 5-wire cables. So you get unused wires if you need 2,4,7,etc. It's not like that in the USA. Occasionally you'll have a spare wire but usually everything that is run has a purpose. Plenty of times I wished I had two extra conductors!
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Mar 16, 2019 16:50
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The struggle question in the US is for a switched outlet, is the feeder circuit (i.e. the neutral) in the switch box or the outlet box. Modern code expects the former, which allows for things like smart switches, but the latter is useful if you want to make an outlet half-switched/half-constant-power, which I've done to most of my switched outlets.
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Mar 16, 2019 17:16
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So are you supposed to run 12/2 to the switch and then 12/3 from the switch to outlet? With 2 hot legs, one switched and one always on, and a shared neutral?
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Mar 17, 2019 23:04
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Nevets posted:So are you supposed to run 12/2 to the switch and then 12/3 from the switch to outlet? With 2 hot legs, one switched and one always on, and a shared neutral? That would be how it's done, though I think it's rare to have switched outlets actually wired to be split nowadays.
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Mar 18, 2019 00:01
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so is (C)AFCI required for basically all circuits these days? and the breakers are supposed be 10x the price of normal ones? We're replacing the panel in our house and redoing all of the electrical in the kitchen, bathroom, and utility closet. Looks like basically all 120V circuits need to be AFCI, and all kitchen/bath also need to be GFCI? Plus dedicated circuits are required for basically everything? We're looking at: 220V 50A for electric range 220V ??A for water heater (maybe 30 A? I don't have the numbers in front of me right now) 220V 20A for heat pump 220V ??A for clothes dryer (don't recall numbers off-hand) 120V circuits: Fridge Microwave clothes washer dishwasher + garbage disposal (assuming we can put these on the same circuit?) kitchen outlets (GFCI) bathroom outlets (GFCI) shed outlets + lights kitchen/hallway/bathroom lights & bathroom fan not planning to change anything for the living room & bedrooms in terms of wiring, but they'll be going into the new panel - presumably that counts as needing updated breakers? Do any of the 220V circuits need to be AFCI and/or GFCI? Do all of the 120V circuits need to be AFCI?
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Mar 18, 2019 01:56
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Bloody posted:so is (C)AFCI required for basically all circuits these days? and the breakers are supposed be 10x the price of normal ones? We're replacing the panel in our house and redoing all of the electrical in the kitchen, bathroom, and utility closet. Looks like basically all 120V circuits need to be AFCI, and all kitchen/bath also need to be GFCI? Arc-fault is required for all 15 and 20 amp single phase circuits in the house (210.12(A)). You won't have to AF protect the shed, but the shed outlets will have to be GFI protected. Exterior outlets and unfinished basements do not require AF protection as well. 220V residential circuits do not need GFI or AF protection (aside from hot tubs and maybe some other edge cases). If you're swapping panels, then all new breakers that go in must conform to your local AHJ/code cycle, so yeah, you'll probably need to get the living and bed rooms on AF breakers. It is expensive enough that I'm sure some people don't upgrade their services because of it, but AF protection seems to be saving kids' lives and preventing fires. I don't have AF protection in my house and probably won't until it gets cheaper or a breaker needs replacing, but I did the wiring and don't have kids (or mice). edit: and yeah, bathrooms and kitchen countertops need GFI protection as do exterior outlets, garages, unfinished areas and sink areas. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Mar 18, 2019 |
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Mar 18, 2019 03:33
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B-Nasty posted:That would be how it's done, though I think it's rare to have switched outlets actually wired to be split nowadays. Nobody uses alarm clocks on night stands any more. They charge their phones there instead if anything.
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Mar 18, 2019 04:27
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Switched receptacles are the dumbest loving thing ever. Fite me. 
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Mar 18, 2019 12:57
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MrYenko posted:Switched receptacles are the dumbest loving thing ever. But how else can I use my artistic table lamps to barely light up a room?
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Mar 18, 2019 13:09
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I once lived in an apartment where not only the outlet right next to the door was connected to the switch, but also the outlet in the corner across the room, in the only reasonable place to put a TV. Same switch! The mind boggles at what the intent was.
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Mar 18, 2019 14:39
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KnifeWrench posted:I once lived in an apartment where not only the outlet right next to the door was connected to the switch, but also the outlet in the corner across the room, in the only reasonable place to put a TV. Same switch! The mind boggles at what the intent was. Table / floor lamps. I grew up in a brand new house my parents built in the mid 80's with 1 kitchen boob light, 1 dining room chandelier, a couple bathroom vanity lights and 1 completely insufficient walk in closet can light. All the bedrooms, living rooms, etc. had half switched outlets and no builtin lighting. The idea was you flip the light switch by the door as you enter a room and it turns on 1 or two dim lamps so you can see well enough not to stub your toe as you walk toward your goal, and then manually turn on a spot lamp that was bright enough to read / knit / scrimshaw, etc. The old incandescents cost almost a penny / hour to run. If you forgot and left one on all day that's 10 cents you could have spent on suckers from the candy shop!
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Mar 18, 2019 15:49
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KnifeWrench posted:I once lived in an apartment where not only the outlet right next to the door was connected to the switch, but also the outlet in the corner across the room, in the only reasonable place to put a TV. Same switch! The mind boggles at what the intent was. In the house I reno'ed last year, the former living room had 4 receptacles all on the switch, and a ceiling fan/light with a constant hot. I fixed all of that and it was a pain.
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Mar 18, 2019 17:22
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