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Crotch Fruit posted:I asked about this in the parts picking thread, long story short I want to run an AMD FX-9370 220W old rear end slow CPU because The D14 is 3-pin which makes cooling a bigger pain than the D15. A D15 is going to last forever, might as well pick that one. I don't even know if you can get a D14 today. Just make sure it's mountable to your motherboard.
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Mar 19, 2019 16:57
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. What are some good options for air coolers that can handle this processor? I'm looking at like a Noctua D-14/15 (I assume the 14 is just a little older and cheaper but almost as good?), Deepcool Assassin or Lucifer, or a Thermalright Macho Rev.B (I just don't know if I can take a "macho" cooler seriously). Are there any other air coolers I might have overlooked?
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But even if the D14 is 3 pin, I assume I could just replace the fan(s)? I have a stockpile of 120mm 4 pin PWM fans, but I think they are the wrong size. *edit* I can buy a used D14 for $66 on Amazon, I didn't see the exact fan size listed but I think it it uses a 140 and a 120 fan, so I can at least upgrade the 120 fan to PWM easily with parts I already have. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Mar 19, 2019 |
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Mar 19, 2019 17:15
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Yeah that probably works. The spec pages are very straightforward to go through: D14, D15.
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Mar 19, 2019 17:21
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FWIW Noctua released a new NH-U12A cooler with 7 heatpipes, 37% more surface area and new fans. It is quite expensive. Going by their previous statements it performs within margin of error of a NH-D15S but we'll have to wait for reviews. https://noctua.at/en/noctua-presents-nh-u12a-premium-class-120mm-cpu-cooler
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Mar 19, 2019 17:32
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If you want to hear the fans you can do what I did. I have a D15 but I replaced the stock fans with their 3000 RPM ones. If the temperature breaks 75C the fans go from silent to full speed acting as an alarm for me. You can make a more detailed fan curve with them making a little bit of noise at 60C or whatever.
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Mar 19, 2019 17:40
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That NH-U12A looks like a great option, the only catch though is that it's $99 on Amazon compared to $66 for the used D14 which I am about to order. The U12A is probably a better cooler (sufficient cooling, smaller size) but the used D14 is a better deal. I don't really want to hear the fans, I just don't care for a dead silent PC. And I like the sound of the fans ramping up as warning that whatever I'm doing is loading up my PC and maybe I should either check the temps or stop.
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Mar 19, 2019 17:42
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eames posted:FWIW Noctua released a new NH-U12A cooler with 7 heatpipes, 37% more surface area and new fans. It is quite expensive. Going by their previous statements it performs within margin of error of a NH-D15S but we'll have to wait for reviews.
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Mar 19, 2019 17:45
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ufarn posted:Oh snap, maybe I should wait for the black version of this instead of the D15. Their youtube account also hinted at a D16 release/announcement at Computex 2019 (yes I read youtube comments so you don't have to  )
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Mar 19, 2019 17:59
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eames posted:Their youtube account also hinted at a D16 release/announcement at Computex 2019 (yes I read youtube comments so you don't have to
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Mar 19, 2019 18:05
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eames posted:FWIW Noctua released a new NH-U12A cooler with 7 heatpipes, 37% more surface area and new fans. It is quite expensive. Going by their previous statements it performs within margin of error of a NH-D15S but we'll have to wait for reviews. I'm just drooling over those new fans... I remember now, the ones with the new compound so they were even stiffer and had even tighter tolerances. If only my PC didn't already have 7 Noctuas (of the older variety)... I just can't find a use for more... HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 19, 2019 |
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Mar 19, 2019 18:23
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I had absolutely no problem overclocking an i7 930 I use for my MAME cabinet from 2.4 ghz to 4.0 ghz, however, now I am trying to do it with my 2nd PC and can't get anything to work. The only difference between the two computers are the motherboards. I have an i7 930 with an ECS X58B-A2 Black motheboard, a new Corsair water cooler, a beefy high-quality PSU, and 8GB of this RAM:  I have been combing over forum posts for literally days trying to figure out how to overclock this thing. I found people on various forums with the same motherboard and slightly different CPU (a 920) but I cannot find any concrete guides for this combo of CPU/motherboard/RAM. I tried so many combinations of things I've lost count. I'm getting to the point of giving up but then I'll be so annoyed I bought a watercooler for nothing. I know this stupid thing can be overclocked, I just can't make it work for whatever reason. Here are some screen shots of the BIOS, if someone can tell me what to set everything as, I would appreciate it more than words can describe:    Thanks a billion in advance
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Mar 19, 2019 20:46
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Red_Fred posted:I finally got around to overclocking my i5-9600K. However I'm a little confused about voltages. I followed this guide for my Z390 Aorus Elite mobo. Why does it all say 1.200v for core voltage when I set it at 1.345v in the BIOS? Is this something to do with LLC? CPU-Z showed 1.2v like HWinfo. Sorry to quote my own post but it got lost last page. Does anyone know about this?
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Mar 19, 2019 22:14
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:I had absolutely no problem overclocking an i7 930 I use for my MAME cabinet from 2.4 ghz to 4.0 ghz, however, now I am trying to do it with my 2nd PC and can't get anything to work. The only difference between the two computers are the motherboards. What happens when you enable "CPU OVER-CLOCKING FUNC"?
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Mar 19, 2019 23:46
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VelociBacon posted:What happens when you enable "CPU OVER-CLOCKING FUNC"? Thanks so much for the reply. Here is what happens: 
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Mar 20, 2019 00:01
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:Thanks so much for the reply. Here is what happens: So that unlocked adjustment of CPU frequency right below it, and then you can enable CPU Voltage and presumably set a manual voltage there, so you should be good to go. Red_Fred posted:Sorry to quote my own post but it got lost last page. Does anyone know about this? VR VOUT is the best one to read for this on that board. You get different voltage headings and values because it's measuring voltage at different parts on the way to the CPU. Yes it is different from what you set because voltage droop under load. 74C is low for p95. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Mar 20, 2019 |
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Mar 20, 2019 00:04
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Red_Fred posted:Sorry to quote my own post but it got lost last page. Does anyone know about this?
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Mar 20, 2019 00:05
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VelociBacon posted:So that unlocked adjustment of CPU frequency right below it, and then you can enable CPU Voltage and presumably set a manual voltage there, so you should be good to go. Yeah I know, that's the settings I need help with. I've been messing with those settings all week and haven't been able to get it to overclock Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Mar 20, 2019 |
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Mar 20, 2019 00:08
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VelociBacon posted:So that unlocked adjustment of CPU frequency right below it, and then you can enable CPU Voltage and presumably set a manual voltage there, so you should be good to go. Crotch Fruit posted:I don't really see a problem, it looks like the setting in your bios is just a maximum for the CPU, and this can be seen in your screenshots that the max value it read for vcore was 1.3 in the first screenshot, or 1.344 in the second screenshot. If the CPU doesn't need 1.345 volts all the time, your board is not going to give it 1.344 at all times and will instead give it 1.2 volts. OK awesome. I just needed some validation. I think I'll set LLC to turbo and try and push a bit further given that my temperatures are fine and it seems like it is not needing the full voltage even doing those p95 runs.
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Mar 20, 2019 08:18
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:Yeah I know, that's the settings I need help with. I've been messing with those settings all week and haven't been able to get it to overclock So when you adjust CPU frequency up of the default and then check it in windows you don't see a change in the clock speed? Red_Fred posted:OK awesome. I just needed some validation. I think I'll set LLC to turbo and try and push a bit further given that my temperatures are fine and it seems like it is not needing the full voltage even doing those p95 runs. Be aware that just setting it to Turbo (which you should do) is going to increase the voltage going to your CPU because it'll make it closer to the set voltage. You might want to back your vcore down a bit, set it to turbo, and then go from there.
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Mar 20, 2019 12:35
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Q: Do you prefer air cooling or water cooling? A: Yes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXFxuqzLu1Q
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Mar 20, 2019 14:17
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Crotch Fruit posted:Q: Do you prefer air cooling or water cooling? It's a wasserboxer!
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Mar 20, 2019 15:30
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I don't like that because it's not cheap, it doesn't prove anything, and dirt will be a problem, not to mention corrosion.
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Mar 20, 2019 15:45
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VelociBacon posted:So when you adjust CPU frequency up of the default and then check it in windows you don't see a change in the clock speed? The computer won't POST whenever I do that.
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Mar 20, 2019 16:00
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I didn't know ECS even made X58 boards, or at least ones that didn't immediately self-ignite.
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Mar 20, 2019 17:24
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VelociBacon posted:Be aware that just setting it to Turbo (which you should do) is going to increase the voltage going to your CPU because it'll make it closer to the set voltage. You might want to back your vcore down a bit, set it to turbo, and then go from there. Thanks will do. The only other thing I wasn’t sure about was uncore frequency. The guide I followed was for a 9900k and it said set it at 47 to start. Is this also fine for my 9600k?
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Mar 20, 2019 18:44
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That's fine for a 9600K, but the effect on performance is a lot lower. Figure out the max the cores can do, then test for uncore overclocking stability. (I still have my Haswell at the default 3GHz because the change in performance was so small and not worth it to me to stability test it)
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Mar 20, 2019 18:59
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IMO leave the uncore and just adjust the CPU multiplier. It's way easier. As to the goon with the blue BIOS, sorry I have no idea how to OC that.
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Mar 20, 2019 19:37
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VelociBacon posted:
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Mar 20, 2019 21:00
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craig588 posted:I don't like that because it's not cheap, it doesn't prove anything, and dirt will be a problem, not to mention corrosion. Of course, corrosion could be a big problem, if I recall right you should never mix different metals like copper and aluminum in a water loop? What if the acrylic box was glued around a heat pipe that used nickel plated copper heat pipes? I assume something with either aluminum pipes and aluminum fins would work better (but I have not seen such a cooler) or maybe a tower air cooler with copper pipes and copper fins would prevent corrosion problems? I'm curious why you say dirt would be a problem, besides of course the open water pitcher reservoir. I agree the video is kinda stupid, but I like seeing proof of concept stuff and DIY crazy ideas instead of just the same booring "we're installing yet another pre-made Corsair all-in-one premade water cooling loop". I wouldn't want to copy this on any system I own, unless it were a system I don't care about like a certain older ASUS P5QPL motherboard with a SATA controller that keeps giving me fits (which could also be related to using an extremely old Crucial M4). . .
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Mar 20, 2019 21:51
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:The computer won't POST whenever I do that. I think your motherboard only supports overclocking in a "check mark on this feature on the box art" way, and doesn't actually support overclocking in a "people could actually use this" way.
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Mar 20, 2019 22:15
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Indiana_Krom posted:I think your motherboard only supports overclocking in a "check mark on this feature on the box art" way, and doesn't actually support overclocking in a "people could actually use this" way. I mean, people have gotten it to over 4.0ghz with this mobo and CPU so I am figuring it has to be something I am doing wrong. Do I have to mess with any of the RAM settings or voltages? I'll settle for a 3.4ghz OC at this point
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Mar 20, 2019 22:34
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Personally, I'd get rid of as many "Auto" settings as possible - stuff like DRAM speed, Uncore speed, stuff like that. Usually "Auto" means "stock" and that's fine, but some BIOSes get creative and start changing what it means when you start enabling overclocking and they break poo poo. Manually set as much of that to stock numbers as possible to make sure that you're starting where you think you are. Once you think everything is set to stock, make sure that boots and go from there in changing just one thing at a time.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Mar 20, 2019 |
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Mar 20, 2019 22:49
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Eletriarnation posted:Personally, I'd get rid of as many "Auto" settings as possible - stuff like DRAM speed, Uncore speed, stuff like that. Usually "Auto" means "stock" and that's fine, but some BIOSes get creative and start changing what it means when you start enabling overclocking and they break poo poo. Manually set as much of that to stock numbers as possible to make sure that you're starting where you think you are. Once you think everything is set to stock, make sure that boots and go from there in changing just one thing at a time. How would I know the stock settings for this ram though? Sorry I'm a bit of a buffoon
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Mar 20, 2019 23:32
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:How would I know the stock settings for this ram though? Sorry I'm a bit of a buffoon
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Mar 21, 2019 00:14
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Crotch Fruit posted:Good thoughts about watercooling It doesn't prove anything because we already knew water has a higher thermal capacity and conductivity than air. I think in a few months the fins will all be clogged up and watercoolers work in part because the don't have dissimilar metals, that's where most dirt and corrosion comes from. Water coolers are designed to keep forcing water though the entire block assembly so there's no dead zone that can get clogged up. There's also better ways to flow the water, but that's a more minor thing. An interesting video would be if corrosion preventing additives can work under such extreme conditions after a few months. Does painting the heatsink work and not severely effect the performance? It's like 2 decades ago now since I was in school and I haven't really kept up with new technologies. I went to college for thermodynamics so I might be too harsh on homebrew cooling projects. Don't get me wrong, I like when people think about cooling, it was a huge part of my life for a few years.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:29
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Yeah but I don't know what that means about what I am allowed to put in for extra voltages and DRAM frequency and uncore ratios
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Mar 21, 2019 03:09
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:Yeah but I don't know what that means about what I am allowed to put in for extra voltages and DRAM frequency and uncore ratios You can also play with the latency settings to try to make the RAM faster by running them faster then stock. I'm not certain but I would assume setting a higher latency might make the RAM more stable, I've never read about anyone setting latency higher than stock. The SPD feature in your BIOS will use the serial presence detect chips on your RAM to load the stock settings, that is likely a good option to use. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 11:02
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Crotch Fruit posted:You put in as little extra frequency and voltage as you can slowly increasing until you find the maximum stable speed. A quick Google search says uncore lets you use a system bus speed different from the CPUs main frequency. Use the options in uncore to try to keep the DRAM controller running as close to stock as you can while you figure out your CPU's max speed, then you can go back and increase uncore to try to get more performance. Thank you. A lot of guides say to turn off certain things like virtualization and hyper threading when overclocking. Is that true? If so, why?
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Mar 21, 2019 15:36
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HT causes additional power use and therefore additional heat. My X5660, which also runs on X58, will boot at 4.8 without HT (though it isn't really stable) but won't go over 4.56 with it on. As to virtualization extensions I'm not sure. I leave those on since I use them.
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Mar 21, 2019 16:01
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Eletriarnation posted:HT causes additional power use and therefore additional heat. My X5660, which also runs on X58, will boot at 4.8 without HT (though it isn't really stable) but won't go over 4.56 with it on. Thank you. I'll be able to give this another shot in like 12 hours. Crossing my fingers
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Mar 21, 2019 16:19
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