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The best luck I've had so far is to apply the pigment right after a coat of matte varnish. Specifically, applying the matte and then immediately applying pigment before the varnish can dry. Gotta be really careful with it, and the pigment will still darken a bit, but if I absolutely want to keep the shading of a pigment I'll do that. Failing that, if you want that dusted look to stay, you're probably better off using paint.
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Mar 20, 2019 02:01
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Sab669 posted:Is there any reason I shouldn't prime my minis with them on the GW painting handle? I can't imagine it would harm it, but at the same time I don't want to have to buy another one. I feel like it would not work right afterwards and that the model would stick to it
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Mar 20, 2019 02:03
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I airbrush prime models on painting handles all the time, it’s fine. Maybe if you went like super crazy and gunked up the springs somehow it’d be a problem, but you’d really have to spray the hell out of it
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Mar 20, 2019 02:44
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Yeah I've been airbrush priming and painting on the handles since they launched and never had a problem or even been close. They're as good as new... Just more colourful!
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Mar 20, 2019 02:51
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Ok, I never actually managed to finish painting anything the last time I tried this hobby (I think I'm gonna have to try out that Oath thread) and my first order of minis and painting poo poo in over 10 years has finally arrived, so I've only got a couple more questions before I start: Do you *really* not have to prime Reaper Bones stuff, or do they just say that? I've read that the material they're made out has some funky reactions with some primers, and I'm going to varnish them afterwards so if I can get away with just basecoating right on the bare plastic without the paintjob being super fragile and prone to chipping, I've got no problem doing it without priming, but I wanted to make sure first. I also picked up some glaze medium so that I can embarrass myself with blending attempts - what is the ratio of medium to paint that I should be aiming for? I'm mostly using Vallejo Game Color with a few Citadel paints in the mix. Similarly, how much do I need to thin Vallejo Metal Colors? It looks like they're designed for airbrushing, so are they thin enough to brush on out of the pot?
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Mar 20, 2019 05:22
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Do you *really* not have to prime Reaper Bones stuff, or do they just say that? I've read that the material they're made out has some funky reactions with some primers, and I'm going to varnish them afterwards so if I can get away with just basecoating right on the bare plastic without the paintjob being super fragile and prone to chipping, I've got no problem doing it without priming, but I wanted to make sure first. The main thing you really need to watch out for with Bones is that the material is slightly hydrophobic, so thinned paint will bead up on it. Keep your basecoat fairly thick to avoid this problem.
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Mar 20, 2019 05:28
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Bones need to be scrubbed with soap and water first. No primer necessary, just thin the base coat slightly and start painting.
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Mar 20, 2019 05:30
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:What kind of recipe would you guys use to get a muted, brownish yellow like this guy: Wanted to respond to this because I've been experimenting with yellow with my Iyanden Eldar army. I went the wash route as outlined in this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8faz9dsNLk&t=212s Here's my WIP results:  Process for this was: -Prime in Skeleton Bone from Army Painter -Reikland Fleshshade the recesses -Wash twice with Casandora Yellow -Edge hilghlight with Dorn Yellow I really like the way this yellow approach works, but as you can see from my sloppy edge highlighting, it's extremely difficult to clean up without having to redo sections. I have a regular dropper bottle of Skeleton Bone that I sometimes will toss on and start over with for sections if I feel the need to. I haven't tried just going straight for a Yriel Yellow basecoat or anything but I'm really happy with these results so I'm planning on continuing it for the near future!
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Mar 20, 2019 06:36
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Are there any other miniature brands out there that are similar to Battletech? I want to paint some giant robots.
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Mar 20, 2019 07:17
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There’s a bunch of updated battletech models you can get off Etsy if you just wanna paint better looking versions of mechs.
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Mar 20, 2019 07:55
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Reaper also sells some totally-not-Battletech mechs and vehicles.
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Mar 20, 2019 11:43
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:I airbrush prime models on painting handles all the time, it’s fine. Maybe if you went like super crazy and gunked up the springs somehow it’d be a problem, but you’d really have to spray the hell out of it tehsid posted:Yeah I've been airbrush priming and painting on the handles since they launched and never had a problem or even been close. They're as good as new... Just more colourful! Ah I meant with a can of spray paint. I definitely wouldn't have any qualms with an airbrush, but sadly I don't have one.
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Mar 20, 2019 12:29
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For those of you who ordered an airbrush from Badger on their big sale, how long from when they made the stamps.com shipment that you got a notification for (with status that the shipping label has been made but product not yet received for shipping yet) until they actually sent it? Is it common that they create the stamps.com shipment and then don't send it for a week or two?
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Mar 20, 2019 22:50
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I got label creation for mine Thursday last week. It got to USPS Monday and received it today.
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Mar 20, 2019 23:57
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Harvey Mantaco posted:For those of you who ordered an airbrush from Badger on their big sale, how long from when they made the stamps.com shipment that you got a notification for (with status that the shipping label has been made but product not yet received for shipping yet) until they actually sent it? Is it common that they create the stamps.com shipment and then don't send it for a week or two? I got the stamps.com notification 2 days before I got the airbrush. This was a month and a half ago, though.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:05
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They made the label last Thursday and it still says they're waiting for the item. I guess I should follow up. Feel like a pest. Holy poo poo am I ever excited though.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:19
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Sab669 posted:Ah I meant with a can of spray paint. I definitely wouldn't have any qualms with an airbrush, but sadly I don't have one. Ah. I have used it with spray cans as well, maybe once a fortnight or so.. still no problems, but so long as you don't coat it on, it'll fine I'd imagine.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:29
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Is GW's pre-mixed verdigris any good, or should I just mix up my own? Some of their technical paints look a little cartoonish to me, but I'm not sure if it's something that can be fixed by knocking down the saturation with a glaze or two.
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Mar 21, 2019 01:33
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Is GW's pre-mixed verdigris any good, or should I just mix up my own? Some of their technical paints look a little cartoonish to me, but I'm not sure if it's something that can be fixed by knocking down the saturation with a glaze or two. GW's technical paints are legit. They're great, and they really have no alternatives. That said, verdigris is the least impressive of them.
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Mar 21, 2019 08:51
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crazystray posted:What are those from? Those are awesome evil trees! I want to have a bunch of those hanging out in pots in my house. Thanks! They're just citadel woods with GS bases. Used a thin piece of wire in the core of the tentacle, twisted the wire with some pliers to get the curl, then when it was dry added a couple of lines of tiny greenstuff blobs and pressed into them with the back of a pin vice to make the suckers. Super easy and I'm someone who sucks with green stuff. 
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Mar 21, 2019 09:06
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IshmaelZarkov posted:Thanks! God drat dude, I definitely didn't think those were custom. Good job!
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Mar 21, 2019 14:46
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Edit - whoops i broke something
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Mar 21, 2019 15:48
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IshmaelZarkov posted:Thanks! Awesome work! I'm always impressed by what other people can do with green stuff, especially cuz I feel very incapable when using it myself.
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Mar 21, 2019 16:40
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My latest painting. I like how his tattered robes ended up having a dirty look completely by accident (and lack of skill), which makes a lot more sense to me than GWS's clean look they give the MechAds. Not completely happy with a few minor parts, but overall I really love this figure and the huge amount of detail in each plastic piece. GWS did a fantastic job with this mini and making it fun to paint. 
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Mar 21, 2019 16:50
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So I found an old jar of Liquitex Gloss Medium + Varnish sitting in my closet that I got for something completely unrelated to miniature painting, but I'm kinda curious if it has any possible hobby application. But I'm not even really sure how it works - how can it be a medium and a varnish at the same time? What would that even do if I mixed it into paint? Is it basically just a brush-on gloss varnish at that point?
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Mar 21, 2019 18:52
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I am not sure if this has been posted but I just noticed it. I haven't backed it yet but it looks interesting: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cephalopodstudios/cuttlefish-colors-a-hobby-paint-line?ref=discovery_recommendations
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Mar 21, 2019 18:53
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crazystray posted:I am not sure if this has been posted but I just noticed it. I haven't backed it yet but it looks interesting: It...doesn't look that much cheaper, especially for a KS price? I got an AP set with 42 bottles (34 colors, 7 washes, 1 anti shine varnish) and 3 (bad) brushes and it costed 10-15€ more than the 70€ KS set (31 colors + 1 bottle of blending medium). E: in fact, you can get a 50 bottles AP set for 95€ (25€ more expensive, but also 19 more bottles). Vallejo is in a similar price range (would cost about 85€ for 30 bottles instead of 70), but is also proven quality paint. Is this KS from a known entity? That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 19:08
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That Italian Guy posted:It...doesn't look that much cheaper? I got an AP set with 42 bottles (34 colors, 7 washes, 1 anti shine varnish) and 3 (bad) brushes and it costed 10-15€ more than the 70€ KS set (31 colors + 1 bottle of blending medium). E: in fact, you can get a 50 bottles AP set for 95€ (25€ more expensive, but also 19 more bottles). Vallejo is a bit more expensive, but is also proven quality paint. Yeah I have a negative amount of trust in the QA level for Kickstarter paint when they have to make it in deliverable quantities.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:10
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I'd be very wary of relying on any of those colours given how often a kickstarter kills the business.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:12
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I said come in! posted:My latest painting. I like how his tattered robes ended up having a dirty look completely by accident (and lack of skill), which makes a lot more sense to me than GWS's clean look they give the MechAds. Not completely happy with a few minor parts, but overall I really love this figure and the huge amount of detail in each plastic piece. GWS did a fantastic job with this mini and making it fun to paint. The dirtiness on those robes is a really nice effect. I'm assuming it was just a generous application of Nuln Oil or something?
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Mar 21, 2019 19:48
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TotalHell posted:The dirtiness on those robes is a really nice effect. I'm assuming it was just a generous application of Nuln Oil or something? Yes, I tried to copy how GWS did it in their battle ready MechAds painting tutorial, but I can't get it right for some reason. But I am okay with that in this case. I also like how his hand with the cane turned out. That is flesh, where his other hand with the halberd is mechanical. It's the last of his flesh body and is cold and dead from exposure to the unpressurized atmosphere of mars, but he doesn't care because flesh is useless to MechAds.
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Mar 21, 2019 20:21
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:So I found an old jar of Liquitex Gloss Medium + Varnish sitting in my closet that I got for something completely unrelated to miniature painting, but I'm kinda curious if it has any possible hobby application. But I'm not even really sure how it works - how can it be a medium and a varnish at the same time? What would that even do if I mixed it into paint? Is it basically just a brush-on gloss varnish at that point? I use it, as well as the liquitex matte medium. As far I know it dries to a protective finish wether or not you mix it with paint. You could also use it for glazing, though I prefer a matte or satin finish for that. And in regards to your previous question about glazing-try starting with at least 2 parts glaze medium to 1 part paint and see how it works from there. If you aren't getting enough color try for a 1 to 1. I like to mix the color down thin and do a few more layers for a smoother transition. Skails fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 23:18
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6 down, 4 to go!
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Mar 23, 2019 12:59
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I'm still waiting on my MKIV's to come in, however I did get some bitz in the mail yesterday and I'm excited, so I'll make a post and keep the fluff to a minimum: Color Scheme I'm going for a super basic, HH style white-with-colored-pauldrons: Regular   Veteran  While the black should be easy, I'm of two minds on how I want to paint the white: using the method I found on YT which is Corax + Nuln/Nightshade, or the GW recommended Corax/Ulthuan/Agrax/White Scar. I think both look great. I'm also still debating which color of orange I'll go with as my main color: Troll Slayer or Fire Dragon. I'll prime some extra pauldrons when they come in and try both, though I think that a Corax White prime with Fire Dragon should create a nice medium orange. Speaking of which, I have some custom pauldrons that will be the primary icon of my army. I ordered 15 to start, I'm hoping that they won't be as frustrating to paint as I think they'll be:  Master Crafted Miniatures, based on an old Chapter House design that I really liked... but then they went under. In addition, I'll be incorporating quite a few bionic pieces into certain members of my squads as well as bone-colors, specifically Night Lords Terror squad heads from FW:  ... as well as fur, skin, and scale cloaks/tabards, meaning I'll have quite a bit of colors to coordinate. I also want to have a vintage style Imperial Guard auxiliary, so I bought this old RT medic to test out:  The rest will be from Mad Robot Miniatures, who has recreated the RT style line:   This thing is somewhat primed, but I want to remove it and start fresh. What is a good, environmentally friendly way of removing primer?
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Mar 23, 2019 14:12
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Purple clean from Walmart or wherever.
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Mar 23, 2019 15:05
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Count_Brass posted:6 down, 4 to go! These look great!
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Mar 23, 2019 15:57
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How long do you guys leave black primer before spraying them with another colour? I sprayed Chaos Black on some guys a few hours ago, and I'm wondering if it's okay to spray Leadbelcher on them now, before it gets dark, rather than wait til tomorrow and hope the nice weather holds out.
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Mar 23, 2019 16:10
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I've painted a Rat! Rats are fun. I've experimented a bit with different backdrops for the pictures and they make so much difference it's crazy; they almost don't look like the same paintjob. Dark backdrop:  Light backdrop:  I wonder how much of this is due to the lovely phone camera and how much is caused by the juxtaposition effect.
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Mar 23, 2019 16:16
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Do you mean exposure compensation for the bright white background? You'll get that with many cameras unless you're able to manually control it, and with a light background like that, a properly exposed shot for your subject might blow out parts or all of the background.
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Mar 23, 2019 17:06
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Dr Snofeld posted:How long do you guys leave black primer before spraying them with another colour? I sprayed Chaos Black on some guys a few hours ago, and I'm wondering if it's okay to spray Leadbelcher on them now, before it gets dark, rather than wait til tomorrow and hope the nice weather holds out. I've waited as little as 20 minutes before. There's probably a formula that incorporates humidity, temperature, and volume of spray but for most tabletop paintjobs if it looks dry it probably is.
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Mar 23, 2019 18:02
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