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Megillah Gorilla posted:Turn sound on for this one Hahaha thats great
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Mar 23, 2019 16:44
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Megillah Gorilla posted:Turn sound on for this one Dude must be a champion masturbator.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:29
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the horrible mechanical failure is   Yep, you're not going anywhere in a hurry...
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Mar 24, 2019 04:27
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Can't you clamp a hose over those ends?
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Mar 24, 2019 04:45
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PainterofCrap posted:Can't you clamp a hose over those ends? Looks like it goes softline -> hardline -> softline, so just replace the whole thing with a piece of softline?
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Mar 24, 2019 05:47
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This. Might run into issues at that bend near the firewall side once it's done entirely in soft hose (and it looks like that hose is already collapsing in the bend), but you can just use a 90 degree brass/other plumbing metal fitting to that existing softline to make up for it. Or just a male to male coupler between the 2 lines, with the new line a little longer to give it some slack.
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Mar 24, 2019 08:59
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Goddamn, Jaguar. For a flagship car, a solution like that is so half assed. That explains so much.
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Mar 24, 2019 11:08
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yeah I figure the idea behind the softline portions is so the engine can move and whatnot but why they chose to use this lovely brittle plastic is beyond me. After I took this photo I tried to join the break together with a piece of vacuum line rubber patch that I had lying around (just so I could move the car up my driveway and into the garage) and broke the hose again just from handling it. Makes me wonder what the state of the other myriad 19 year old hoses are... The only reason I can think of that it's not softline the whole way is that the hardline portion clips to the top of the engine cover (it broke at the clip), holding it just above the word "Jaguar". If the hose was softline, theoretically it might droop above the pretty text. Seems like a pretty lovely reason so I'm going to assume that's why. sarcastx fucked around with this message at 11:41 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 11:36
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Raluek posted:Looks like it goes softline -> hardline -> softline, so just replace the whole thing with a piece of softline? My concern is that they likely would have done that at the factory, and that they employed a hardline due to suction causing a softline to collapse on itself when the engine is cooling off or during some other phase that raises a vacuum in that circuit. Replacing it with a metal line as suggested by STR would eliminate that issue.
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Mar 24, 2019 19:16
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My motorcycle's mirror appears to be leaking oil: It's a Triumph, though, so I guess this shouldn't be unexpected--only the British could make a mirror drip oil.
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Mar 24, 2019 22:16
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At least it still has oil in it.
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Mar 24, 2019 23:02
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C-Bangin' it 
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Pham Nuwen posted:My motorcycle's mirror appears to be leaking oil: Right. It takes zee Germanz to make random electrical things drip coolant.
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Mar 25, 2019 00:23
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sarcastx posted:yeah I figure the idea behind the softline portions is so the engine can move and whatnot but why they chose to use this lovely brittle plastic is beyond me. After I took this photo I tried to join the break together with a piece of vacuum line rubber patch that I had lying around (just so I could move the car up my driveway and into the garage) and broke the hose again just from handling it. Makes me wonder what the state of the other myriad 19 year old hoses are... Wasn't that the era when Ford owned Jaguar? I know Ford is a fan of those lovely brittle plastic lines.
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Mar 25, 2019 08:32
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sarcastx posted:yeah I figure the idea behind the softline portions is so the engine can move and whatnot but why they chose to use this lovely brittle plastic is beyond me. After I took this photo I tried to join the break together with a piece of vacuum line rubber patch that I had lying around (just so I could move the car up my driveway and into the garage) and broke the hose again just from handling it. Makes me wonder what the state of the other myriad 19 year old hoses are... I'm kind of impressed that Jag ran the tube ABOVE the intake runners instead of underneath them, since the latter would not obscure the normally-hidden logo and make lots of pounds and shillings for steadfast British mechanics when the inevitable break occurred and you had to remove the intake manifold to repair it. 
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Mar 25, 2019 12:50
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STR posted:Wasn't that the era when Ford owned Jaguar? Yeah they are. On the 5.4 (and probably the 4.6) the PCV line is like that. Funny thing is it snakes from the valve cover to the back of the the manifold to a rubber elbow. Well, do to its location the rubber elbow often fails which causes a lean code on both banks of the engine since it is sucking in unmetered air. The elbow is an odd size on each end. Guess what...Dorman cranks out this elbow that you can easily find at Autozone. For the low cost of around $8...for something that probably cost them a nickel. I gotta hand it to them. If there is a defect, Dorman swoops in to crank a part out. Anyways back to the plastic line. Sometimes it gets in the way with the harder to get to coil packs. So unhook, swing out of the way type of thing. Then everything is back together but something ain't right about the plastic line because you forgot about it. Everything about the job is tight with big hands and snap it goes. Nothing five feet of electrical tape can't solve to get it running late at night. That hillbilly repair is still good after a year. Of course you can't do that with a coolant line. I think the replacement part is around $60 or so.
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Mar 25, 2019 13:49
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ausgezeichnet posted:I'm kind of impressed that Jag ran the tube ABOVE the intake runners instead of underneath them, since the latter would not obscure the normally-hidden logo and make lots of pounds and shillings for steadfast British mechanics when the inevitable break occurred and you had to remove the intake manifold to repair it. Stiff upper tube. 
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Mar 25, 2019 19:07
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sarcastx posted:yeah I figure the idea behind the softline portions is so the engine can move and whatnot but why they chose to use this lovely brittle plastic is beyond me. After I took this photo I tried to join the break together with a piece of vacuum line rubber patch that I had lying around (just so I could move the car up my driveway and into the garage) and broke the hose again just from handling it. Makes me wonder what the state of the other myriad 19 year old hoses are... Semi-related, the 19 year old headlight connectors on the VW are falling apart. I now have three separate connections per headlight instead of one nice connector. Need to do a junkyard run and splice in newer ones.
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Mar 25, 2019 20:30
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I have a couple of those poo poo plastic lines on my Ranger that are weeping, would copper tubing be an ok replacement, or would it have some weird electrolytic interaction and I should spring for CRES?
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Mar 25, 2019 21:20
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Elviscat posted:I have a couple of those poo poo plastic lines on my Ranger that are weeping, would copper tubing be an ok replacement, or would it have some weird electrolytic interaction and I should spring for CRES? Copper work-hardens with vibration. Not a great plan--cunifer or just normal rubber would work better if you can find it in the correct size.
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Mar 26, 2019 01:47
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PainterofCrap posted:Yeah, it's not pretty when they fail. Money on that being a 4G63 part.
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Mar 26, 2019 20:07
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MikeyTsi posted:Money on that being a 4G63 part. if you don't know to do it I'll show you how to walk the crank
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Mar 26, 2019 23:58
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MikeyTsi posted:Money on that being a 4G63 part. Honda F23A5, '98 Accord EX. Run it low on oil long enough...
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Mar 27, 2019 01:33
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PainterofCrap posted:Honda F23A5, '98 Accord EX. Run it low on oil long enough... One of these is very wrong. If it's anything other than a DX, it should be an A1 or J30. (admittedly nit picking here, but the A5 is the non-VTEC version - everything above the DX had the A1 or J30 in the US market) If it's anything above a DX, and really had an A5 in it, someone blew it up and grabbed the cheapest F23 + ECU they could find before he got it. But the DX was a pretty rare beast, the bulk of 6th gen Accords were LX (which had an A1). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Mar 27, 2019 |
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Mar 27, 2019 08:09
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Pham Nuwen posted:My motorcycle's mirror appears to be leaking oil: Colostomy Bag posted:At least it still has oil in it. Well, it did... STR posted:One of these is very wrong. Man, do not try to slip any Honda lies past STR.
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Mar 27, 2019 20:41
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Ehhhh I don't know jack poo poo about them once they retired the A/B/D/F (Accord, not S2K)/H series motors, except that the K20 and K24 are supposed to be fun. And my A series knowledge is limited to 86-89 Accords. K24 TSXs and Accords are well into my price range for earlier models, it's just hard to find one with 3 pedals that hasn't been beat on. But I guess you do wind up learning a bit about them when you've owned 1 Integra, 2 Civics, and 3 Accords, plus being somewhat part of the 90s/early 00s ricer community.  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Mar 28, 2019 |
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Mar 28, 2019 07:30
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The Element had a K series and optional manual, so if you ever wanted to roll in something as ugly as a Nissan Cube and is dirt cheap...
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Mar 28, 2019 07:47
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Wait what, you could get those things with a manual?  I would be fine with that, if it can hit 20+ mpg with a light foot. My Saturn never comes close to EPA stated mileage (even the old one only matched it a couple of times on road trips), while every Honda always managed to be within spitting distance on mixed driving and knocked it out of the park on highway mileage. My 01 Accord (F23A1, 5 speed manual, LX sedan... so the lightest car the A1 was used in for USDM vehicles) was rated 32 highway IIRC, and I hit at least 35 in it every time I drove between Austin and Dallas (all highway, usually AC on and cruise set at 85 - my best tank was 37 or 38, IIRC?). I remember on one trip, I managed to fill up in south Dallas, drive to Austin, spend a week in Austin (plenty of city driving thrown in), and drive back to my driveway in north Dallas, on one tank... that tank still came back as 34 or 35 MPG. It's ~200 miles each way, and I think I put another 100 on it while in Austin. That fucker had a monster of a tank for a 4 pot, I think it was around 17 gallons? Sucked to fill up, but with my work commute at the time (2 miles each way), I only had to fill up every ~2 months or so. Assuming I actually drove.. I walked or rode my bike a bit. One of my regular customers would give me a ride home sometimes (she drove a pickup, so if I rode that day, just toss the bike into the bed). My Integra usually hit high 30s on the highway, but was rated high 20s highway. I broke 40 on one highway tank somehow, but it was the middle of winter (so nice, dense, cold air), cruise set around 80, and that tank was literally "fill up, hop on I-10 until almost empty, pull into first gas station I spot". randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Mar 28, 2019 |
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Mar 28, 2019 08:05
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STR posted:Wait what, you could get those things with a manual? Yeah the FWD Element could be had in a stick but not the AWD if I recall correctly. I had an 04 TSX as one of my 12 or so Hondas, so K24 6-speed, and it was awesome. Had full exhaust including headers, and the VTEC noise was great. I traded it on a ‘13 Si and that was equally as fun but a little more modern interior. I have always loved the Honda clutch and shifter action but I think starting i the mid-00’s they REALLY figured out how to make them perfect. Even my new ‘19 Si has an excellent trans and clutch, despite the lack of VTEC (but addition of a turbo).
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Mar 28, 2019 15:33
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Yeah the FWD Element could be had in a stick but not the AWD if I recall correctly. You could get the Element with AWD and a 5 speed, even in the EX model. It was fairly rare, but in Denver, where I sold them the 2WD wasn't even ordered for us. They got TERRIBLE mileage, but the people who bought them loved them. I also sold a 4WD 06 Honda CR-V EX-L with a 5 speed. The shifter just stuck the gently caress out of the floor between the two seats like a truck shifter. It lost the cool fold down table that normal CR-Vs have. There was an obvious block off plate where the dash mounted auto shifter normally poked out. When I started, I had to teach three co-workers who started around the same time how to drive stick. A CRV or an Element would have been ideal cars to learn in. Even an accord. What did they want me to use? The 05 Civic Si (EP3 model). The car had a funky shifter that came out below the radio. The engine stalled REALLY easily, so they learned GOOD. They wanted to learn in the S2000, but that would have literally been like a worst-case scenario of learning a stick.
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Mar 28, 2019 15:50
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0toShifty posted:You could get the Element with AWD and a 5 speed, even in the EX model. I had one of these and miss it some times. Silly rear sun roof and all.
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Mar 28, 2019 16:51
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0toShifty posted:You could get the Element with AWD and a 5 speed, even in the EX model. It was fairly rare, but in Denver, where I sold them the 2WD wasn't even ordered for us. They got TERRIBLE mileage, but the people who bought them loved them. Comforting to know if I buy a manual from a lot it was used as the tutor car. So how is the S2000 for rowing the gears? Heard it has one of the greatest shifters ever but am assuming you need to get the revs up on take off.
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Mar 28, 2019 18:13
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It drives like any other car with respect to taking off from a stop
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Mar 28, 2019 18:21
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Colostomy Bag posted:Comforting to know if I buy a manual from a lot it was used as the tutor car. The S2000 stalls a bit easier than most, so a new driver learns to rev it up to prevent this. And the S2000 can REV!! The digital dash also confuses new drivers. However, once you learned it, it is probably the most perfect manual transmission shifter from the best company at making manual transmission shifters. The S2000 we were using was the later facelift type - the AP2, so it had the 2.2L, slightly more forgiving than 2.0
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Mar 28, 2019 18:44
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Out of morbid curiosity, what does say a run-of-the-mill "good" S2000 go for now?
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Mar 28, 2019 19:05
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AP1 around 10-12k AP2 around 14-16k CR >30k Sub-100k mileage and/or a desirable color combo like white on red will drive the price way up. Mileage isn't really a concern with these cars, they hold up well and have generally been garaged their whole life.
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Mar 28, 2019 19:06
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BlackMK4 posted:AP1 around 10-12k Thanks. That doesn't look bad. I was expecting $20K. What are the top problems? Don't take much time, as I always wanted one, have it on my bucket list of cars so my chances of getting one are slim yet if I run across one at least I have a general idea. Edit: Don't mean problems with the top, just general what are the top problems.
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Mar 28, 2019 19:14
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Replace the exhaust side valve spring retainers in AP1 cars, if they haven't already been done. They crack in over-rev situations and eventually drop the valve. Pretty easy DIY. AP1 can have clutch buzz on decel, just needs a disk replacement but is an irritation rather than an actual issue. I replaced my original clutch at something like 170k, so they last. Vibration on accel from the rear means you swap your rear axle cups side to side. Soft top tears Synchros can get weak at higher mileage, AP2 got carbon coated ones and the transmission swaps right into the AP1 as long as you bring your AP1 driveshaft flange over. Honda doesn't sell individual synchros, you have to buy entire gear sets at like $200 a pop, there also isn't an aftermarket alternative. They are relatively problem free, easy to work on, and parts are cheap as long as you don't grenade a motor. As long as you don't over-rev it, watch your oil level, and have AP2 retainers you're probably not going to have an issue with that, but if you do expect to spend $3500-4000 on a used motor with proven comp/leakdown numbers. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Mar 28, 2019 |
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Mar 28, 2019 19:19
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0toShifty posted:When I started, I had to teach three co-workers who started around the same time how to drive stick. A CRV or an Element would have been ideal cars to learn in. Even an accord. What did they want me to use? The 05 Civic Si (EP3 model). The car had a funky shifter that came out below the radio. The engine stalled REALLY easily, so they learned GOOD. They wanted to learn in the S2000, but that would have literally been like a worst-case scenario of learning a stick. I've taught a handful of people how to drive stick - I taught my wife in my '11 TDI I used to have, which was like a best case scenario. I taught a friend who already knew motorcycle shifting on an old '96 Volvo 850GLT that was about to get junked, with the bonus of if he'd killed it, we'd not have been able to get it started again probably. He did pretty well. Taught another friend, or at least tried to, on a lovely mid-90's C10 that had the friction point on the clutch basically at the end of the clutch. He couldn't get the hang of using both clutch and gas in an opposite pattern, so to speak, and would either press both or release both at the same time. That car would have been easy just because you could drop the clutch straight out and it was like doing it properly, but it was underpowered and needed some amount of gas so he never could. I have a '17 WRX now with a stage 2 and a protune. One of my friends wanted me to teach her on that. I think that's probably closer to a worst-case scenario than an S2000, at least based on the one I drove years ago. The absolute worst case would have been my high school friend's Fiero that he put some sort of racing clutch in that you basically had to rev it high and drop the clutch 100% of the time.
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Mar 30, 2019 04:08
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shortspecialbus posted:I've taught a handful of people how to drive stick - I taught my wife in my '11 TDI I used to have, which was like a best case scenario. I taught a friend who already knew motorcycle shifting on an old '96 Volvo 850GLT that was about to get junked, with the bonus of if he'd killed it, we'd not have been able to get it started again probably. He did pretty well. Taught another friend, or at least tried to, on a lovely mid-90's C10 that had the friction point on the clutch basically at the end of the clutch. He couldn't get the hang of using both clutch and gas in an opposite pattern, so to speak, and would either press both or release both at the same time. That car would have been easy just because you could drop the clutch straight out and it was like doing it properly, but it was underpowered and needed some amount of gas so he never could. I see some GM things never change. The entire clutch pedal on my Saturn is plastic. There's a little bushing meant to hold the pushrod. That bushing has already broken twice on my car - GM now sells a replacement bushing, so you can drop $7 for the bushing and spend 15 minutes replacing it, instead of $300 and half a day replacing the pedal. The original was broken when I got it. The first replacement let go suddenly, giving me "car's trying to move and it's hard to get into 1st despite the pedal being against the firewall" syndrome. I put a new bushing in again, and I can tell it's already starting to crack just by the way the pedal feels. 
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Mar 30, 2019 10:26
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Best vehicle i've ever taught someone to drive manual in is the old hilux- with 4.7:1 crawler gears in the transfer case. You could side step the clutch in that thing at idle in 5th gear low and it would just start moving away without even dropping 100rpm The keepers at work smoked the clutch out of our brand new hilux in 9200km when we first got it...
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Mar 30, 2019 11:31
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