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Chunjee posted:Depending on the car those sometimes unplug in 30 seconds. I would say "show me" and if they can't put a carboned up valve in your hands, they're liars. Huh. I asked them to note the issue on the paperwork so I could have it looked at later. On the service report attached to my receipt the pcv issue isn’t there any more and now they’re saying I had dirty brake fluid and declined to have it change. They never mentioned brake fluid. 
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Mar 23, 2019 17:53
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| # ? May 23, 2024 13:36 |
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The lesson here is "don't go to that shop"
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Mar 23, 2019 17:57
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Way ahead of you. Just sucks because I’m new in the area so don’t know the shop landscape Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Mar 23, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 18:12
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I'm getting a weird noise from the front left side of my car. It sounds like road noise, but louder. Just kind of a humming vibration, not too intense. It's a 2004 MkIV Golf TDI w/ Automatic Transmission. - Seems to only happen above ~20mph, speed and accel/decel don't change it. Happens under load, braking, and when coasting. - Goes away when wheel is turned anywhere right of center, starts up when it goes left of center. - Doesn't increase much as I turn the wheel further left past center. - No clicking or grinding when turning at full opposite lock, forward or reverse, in either direction. First thought is wheel bearing, but I'm not sure how to test it. Is there an easy way to find out? Or do the symptoms point to something else? shabbat goy fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Mar 23, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 18:25
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Javid posted:Adapter funnel... red one, accordion-y with two different stepped threadings on one end? I got one of those to dump oil down the dipstick tube of this thing rather than take the doghouse off to do it right. It was 97 cents at the Pahrump Wal-mart iirc (and worked hilariously well) People actually live in Pahrump?
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Mar 23, 2019 18:30
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You don't move to Pahrump; you end up there. (I passed through on my way to Vegas because the gas was lol cheap)
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Mar 23, 2019 18:37
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shabbat goy posted:First thought is wheel bearing, but I'm not sure how to test it. Is there an easy way to find out? Or do the symptoms point to something else?
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Mar 23, 2019 19:34
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2001 Lexus ES300 Brake pedal is still soft, already put on a new master cylinder and bled the lines at all four wheels. I'm confident the MC and wheels were bled correctly and thoroughly, perhaps excessively. Checked for leaks, couldn't find any. The car is driveable now, but the pedal is still a lot softer than I would like. Should I go for new hydraulic hose next? The ones on there now don't leak and don't have any apparent damage, though my understanding is that the braiding inside could be worn and I wouldn't be able to see it. Late as gently caress edit: The pads and rotors still have ample life on them. Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 20:30
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Invalido posted:jack the suspected wheel up. Put your hands on the wheel/tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and feel for play in the bearing. Rotate the wheel by hand and feel for vibrations (or a raw or scratchy feeling). A healthy wheel bearing should have none of that. A lack of a positive result on this test is not definitive. I had a bad wheel bearing on the front of my MS3 that passed every hand test but growled like mad on the road.
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Mar 23, 2019 23:10
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I tried to replace the fuel filter on my 98 camry this morning and got a replacement filter from part source for $17 (canada). I installed it but the bottom conical fitting was leaking like crazy. Reading online it sounds like a lot of these aftermarket filters don't have the correct cone shape that matches the fuel line. It came with a copper compression washer but it looks like it's the wrong size and shape, too. Rather than dick around with this trying to make it work, I returned the part and installed the old filter. Fits perfectly with no leaks. Toyota wants $80 for an OEM filter - any other canadian goons know of a reliable aftermarket brand of filters and where to buy them? I am kind of a newbie and just learning to do basic maintenance myself.
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Mar 23, 2019 23:58
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Does rockauto ship to Canada? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1998,camry,3.0l+v6,1317493,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200
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Mar 24, 2019 01:53
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Looks like they do, thanks, this site looks awesome for all kinds of hard to find parts if I am not in a hurry.
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Mar 24, 2019 02:19
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Rockauto is great. I love their online catalog; you can actually bookmark your specific car to quickly look up parts for it, it's incredibly useful when you drive beaters IOwnCalculus posted:Lisle sells one for like $20, there are a bunch of ripoffs of it on Amazon as well. It has adapters that thread onto the radiator so that it can hold water well above the rest of the system. I did all that today. Ran it with the nose jacked up until I got a hot top hose, keeping the coolant topped up all the while. When it got hot I put the cap on, lowered the jack, and drove it around for a few minutes just to shake out as much air as possible.. I don't know how many times the thermostat may have opened, but I put in at LEAST as much coolant as I took out, so it seems like it should be pretty full? Gonna check it in a bit, it should be cool enough by now. Pardon me while I obsess over this, but it's my understanding that it's relatively easy to gently caress up this particular task in a way that causes dire problems. Javid fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 02:25
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Javid posted:Rockauto is great. Pretty rad that they also categorize the parts by quality too.
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Mar 24, 2019 02:35
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Javid posted:Rockauto is great. I love their online catalog; you can actually bookmark your specific car to quickly look up parts for it, it's incredibly useful when you drive beaters I literally never considered bookmarking Rock Auto car pages, holy poo poo. And yeah you're fine. Just check it the next few days when it's cold / before you fire it up to see if it needs a bit more.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:13
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It really is the best possible website for finding the exact part you want, or even just getting a picture of it to know what you're looking for in an unfamiliar engine bay. I wish Napa, O'Reilly's, and the other big national++ parts stores would take a good look at it because their sites are all comparatively wet poo poo
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Mar 24, 2019 03:33
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Javid posted:It really is the best possible website for finding the exact part you want, or even just getting a picture of it to know what you're looking for in an unfamiliar engine bay. I wish Napa, O'Reilly's, and the other big national++ parts stores would take a good look at it because their sites are all comparatively wet poo poo Yeah, its a dope website, I wish they had a comments or reviews section for the parts though. When I did my springs/struts etc a few years ago, it would have been nice to know that the springs I bought had more coils than the original ones for example. Something like that may have been mentioned in a comment or review section.
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Mar 24, 2019 14:40
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Cyrano4747 posted:Also somehow their WiFi blocks most car sites, toyota forums etc. No problem connecting from my phone, no go on WiFi. Whoa whoa whoa. The dealership WiFi is set up to keep customers from double checking how full of poo poo they are? Jesus Christ.
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Mar 24, 2019 15:27
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I'm going to refresh the struts and shocks on my '09 Honda Fit. Other than eBay lowering kit junk, I can't seem to find coil springs for the rear though. They're not broken or anything last time I checked, so am I better off leaving them alone?
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Mar 24, 2019 15:43
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Invalido posted:jack the suspected wheel up. Put your hands on the wheel/tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and feel for play in the bearing. Rotate the wheel by hand and feel for vibrations (or a raw or scratchy feeling). A healthy wheel bearing should have none of that. Wheel felt solid with hands at 12 and 6, and no real noticeable noise or anything while rotating by hand. However, there was some play with hands at 9 and 3. I noticed the tie rod end on the left side (the one that it sounds like the "road noise" is coming from) was a lot worse than the one on the right: Left:  Right:  Looks like I'll throw a new set of outer tie rod ends on and see if that fixes it. Thanks!
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Mar 24, 2019 15:54
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nitsuga posted:I'm going to refresh the struts and shocks on my '09 Honda Fit. Other than eBay lowering kit junk, I can't seem to find coil springs for the rear though. They're not broken or anything last time I checked, so am I better off leaving them alone? https://www.hondapartsamerica.com/oem-parts/honda-spring-rear-52441tk6a11 googling the part number- 52441-TK6-A11 - can bring up aftermarket options. They’re probably fine though.
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Mar 24, 2019 16:10
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glyph posted:Whoa whoa whoa. The dealership WiFi is set up to keep customers from double checking how full of poo poo they are? I mean all the various forums I was finding by just googling poo poo were timing out. My phone hit them just fine. It was one of those third party “click here to connect” type setups so I’m guessing they just blocked anything ID’d as car sites. Similar to how the airport won’t let me look at “violent” sites like MidwayUSA.
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Mar 24, 2019 16:44
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My friend is getting a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus as his first car... apparently the decision is made (his mom is getting it for him and he'll pay her back) and there's no going back, and he's accepted that it'll just be a Struggle CarTM. I know they use proprietary transmission fluid, what other problem areas do cloud cars have?
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Mar 24, 2019 18:39
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You friend would be better off spending the $1500 that thing is worth on cab fare.
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Mar 24, 2019 18:42
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Friar Zucchini posted:My friend is getting a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus as his first car... apparently the decision is made (his mom is getting it for him and he'll pay her back) and there's no going back, and he's accepted that it'll just be a Struggle CarTM. I know they use proprietary transmission fluid, what other problem areas do cloud cars have? The real answer is "the entire car is a problem area" but head gasket and camshaft position sensor (due to aformentioned lovely head gasket) were issues that plagued the Stratus I had when I was kid.
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Mar 24, 2019 19:20
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wesleywillis posted:Yeah, its a dope website, I wish they had a comments or reviews section for the parts though. They used to have exactly that, but it never seemed to take off. I think it was wiki based or something.
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Mar 24, 2019 19:39
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shabbat goy posted:Wheel felt solid with hands at 12 and 6, and no real noticeable noise or anything while rotating by hand. However, there was some play with hands at 9 and 3. I noticed the tie rod end on the left side (the one that it sounds like the "road noise" is coming from) was a lot worse than the one on the right: Bad tie rod ends won't make that kind of noise. It's probably the wheel bearing, though it could be dragging brake pads (in which case, it would go away when the brakes are applied). Another way to check it is to jack up the front end, apply the e-brake, chock the rear wheels, and have someone in the car start it up & put in in gear. If you don't have a mechanic's stethescope, substitute a steel rod, or a long-handled screwdriver with the handle stuck in your ear, listen for grinding by touching the screwdriver against the center of the wheel as it spins. You only have to make light contact that the hub a couple of times to hear it. Check both sides.
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Mar 24, 2019 22:59
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What's the cheapest way of testing how coils (on plugs) are performing without throwing new parts at it? Not getting misfires or any codes, but it's known that the coils they put on the 1.4 MultiAir engine (that is also in the Dodge Dart) have a pretty crappy lifespan and wear out at 50-60k miles. Symtoms are hesitation, bucking and running crappy at ~2500rpm. I'm going to change the spark plugs first as I don't trust PO/PO's mechanic to have done it (and these engines eat plugs and need changing every 25-30k miles). Also, the Dodge Dart guys are fond of putting the Alfa Romeo 4C coils on and report a big difference, almost like "unpinching a hose". But I'm kinda skeptical without real proof. They are about $100 more than getting the normal coils. The symptoms I'm having are a slightly rough idle, where it feels like it ever so slightly hick-ups ever second or so and at the low end of RPMs (1500-2500) it sometimes can buck or stutter. It's not bad, but annoys me. I haven't had time to check the throttle body etc for dirt yet, but the angle % at idle is 5-7 (which isn't too bad IIRC).
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Mar 25, 2019 09:29
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MrOnBicycle posted:What's the cheapest way of testing how coils (on plugs) are performing without throwing new parts at it? Not getting misfires or any codes, but it's known that the coils they put on the 1.4 MultiAir engine (that is also in the Dodge Dart) have a pretty crappy lifespan and wear out at 50-60k miles. Symtoms are hesitation, bucking and running crappy at ~2500rpm. If you can find someone with one of those coil slappers, that would be free. Otherwise they are $80-$150 :\ 
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Mar 25, 2019 11:51
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My car has a bit of a wobble under acceleration most noticeable between 30-40 MPH. It goes away if I let off the gas; also goes away once I get going a bit faster. Wobble just feels like a strong left/right vibration (4-6 Hz?), most noticeable just in the pedal but I can feel it elsewhere, as well. Motor mount, maybe?
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Mar 25, 2019 15:11
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If the Lexus manual calls for their special service tool (SST) 09023-00101 to remove some brake lines, as far as I can tell I just need a 10mm flare nut wrench? I've never had to mess with brake lines before, but it seems like this would be fine, unless I should spring for one with a flexible head.
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Mar 25, 2019 19:01
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As long as that will get in there, yeah, looks fine. The picture I found makes it look like a crow's foot version might be better, but only if space is an issue.
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Mar 25, 2019 23:54
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Should be fine as long you think you clearence to swing to wrench. Some of the diagrams I pulled up looked tight.
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Mar 25, 2019 23:56
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C-Bangin' it 
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poo poo, I'll have to take a look later and see how tight it looks. I may just buy a crows foot wrench and a flex head wrench, it looked like a fair amount of work overall to get to the point that requires the special tool, and I really don't want to get halfway through and get stuck for lack of proper tools.
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Mar 26, 2019 00:57
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A simple situation, but a 2 part question: I have an actual full size wheel I use as my spare tire, but I never bothered to fully test-fit it. I just checked that the stock lug nuts dropped all they way into the holes on the wheel and that the holes could line up properly. I should have been more thorough, because while the regular lug nuts fit, they are too snug in their holes for a wrench to get in and tighten them all down. The only lug nuts I could find on short notice that can fit into that spare wheel and still use a wrench on were these locking nuts. Also, for added comedy, when I was taking off the last nut to remove the flat tire, my tl;dr: 1. Can I drive for a week with just 4 out of 5 lug nuts on a wheel. No more than 65mph for 5-10min each day to work. I can take smaller roads to go 35-45 if that makes a difference. 2. Can I still do #1 safely if those 4 nuts are these silly lock nuts that are probably not intended to be all used on one wheel. Bonus: How much is it going to cost to get a new [whatever] because I sheared off that wheel lug nut bolt tip?
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Mar 26, 2019 01:40
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spankmeister posted:People actually live in Pahrump? My grandparents did! They moved there. On purpose. To get away from Vegas.
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Mar 26, 2019 01:58
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Roumba posted:
I would absolutely not do this.
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Mar 26, 2019 02:32
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Roumba posted:Can I drive for a week with just 4 out of 5 lug nuts on a wheel. NO. This is not just your safety but anyone on the road with you or the sidewalks around you. This is a hard no. That is not safe to drive.
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Mar 26, 2019 02:42
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Gonna third a no on that, bud.
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Mar 26, 2019 02:48
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Well, thank goodness I thought to ask.  Why does this stuff always happen on a monday? Roumba fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Mar 26, 2019 |
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Mar 26, 2019 02:57
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