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quote="mewse" post="493009457"] Oh, I think they're clamped not welded, but haven't disassembled to find out. This ebay auction looks like it matches my mufflers and shows where the clamp is.  [/quote] Huh, guess they only went full system from '88. But also Slavvy posted:You can always do slip-ons, sometimes you just need an angle grinder to do it. good point.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:58
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Fired it up for the first time this season. Seemed to run well once it got warmed up. I think I gassed myself with exhaust fumes again Concerned about the brake lines I put on, saw an ad for a bike saying "no safety inspection, but all parts DOT approved" which makes me think the brake lines need DOT markings. The old rubber brake lines have no markings tho??
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Mar 26, 2019 01:22
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When I first rebuilt my CL350 (also in Canada) I had vinyl water tubing instead of proper fuel lines and it passed the safety inspection. I wouldn't push your luck quite that far (I'd been going to the mechanics who did the inspection for quite a while) but I would guess that as long as the lines are black no one is going to care. If they start looking for DOT marks, it will be on the lamps and lenses. That's the only part I can think of that says DOT on it, in fact, other than the sticker near the exhaust and the caps for the brake fluid.
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Mar 26, 2019 05:41
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I've never seen a brake line that looked sketchy except old ones with cracks and some OEM Triumph ones. I'm not aware that they need to say DOT on them. (I perform state inspections) Any other reasons you're worried about them?
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Mar 26, 2019 13:24
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've never seen a brake line that looked sketchy except old ones with cracks and some OEM Triumph ones. I'm not aware that they need to say DOT on them. (I perform state inspections) Any other reasons you're worried about them? No they’re a clear upgrade but I bought them cheap from AliExpress. I think they’re dirt bike brake lines but they’re braided stainless steel rather than the old stock rubber lines
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Mar 26, 2019 17:22
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Wait you got braided lines off of AliExpress and you're worried about the legality?
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Mar 26, 2019 19:32
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Slavvy posted:Wait you got braided lines off of AliExpress and you're worried about the legality? This whole thread is a testament to my impaired decision making
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Mar 26, 2019 20:14
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I mean I'd be a bit worried about them because they came from AliExpress yeah. Important safety devices like that, I think it's worth it to know the origin of the part and that it's a company with a reputation to uphold in a developed country where people might sue them if they made bad parts. I wouldn't buy no-name brand helmets or tires, for example. The thing with a brake line is, if it's got a manufacturing flaw affecting its structural integrity, there's probably no way you'd see it. There are cheapo brands out there like Bikemaster and Twin Power and I'd feel more confident with those because they are affiliated with major parts distributors.
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Mar 27, 2019 15:22
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I've seen lovely/diy braided lines fail in some exciting ways. Not recommended.
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Mar 27, 2019 19:38
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Yeah just return those and get some Galfers or similar. Don’t bargain shop for dentistry or brakes.
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Mar 28, 2019 01:06
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Don’t buy knockoffs for anything that is unsprung weight, basically
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Mar 29, 2019 02:24
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Mar 29, 2019 03:30
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah just return those and get some Galfers or similar. Don’t bargain shop for dentistry or brakes. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Don’t buy knockoffs for anything that is unsprung weight, basically On Royal Enfields and duke 640's, your dentistry IS unsprung weight.
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Mar 29, 2019 09:14
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- Filled brake fluid, front + rear - Changed oil + filter
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Mar 31, 2019 19:09
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Pretty warm today (8c) so spent some time with the bike. The engine kinda behaves itself once warmed up but it's still kinda weird. I think it still needs tuning. I have carb jets that I haven't installed yet, might give that a shot. The air intake rubber on the carbs is not sealed, there are missing circular springs. Don't know where I could find those. The ducts have part# 14073-1252 and the springs are 92144-1771. This problem is helping me understand why pod filters are so popular. Was having trouble with the new rear seat not being able to unlock with the key bar thing at the back. Had a brain wave and used a pry bar and it works now. Got the idea from a Mustie1 video I think. The turn signal switch is fiddley so I want to remove the left handlebar controls and clean/bend the contacts, but looking at it today I couldn't see where the cable connectors were, and the entire clutch lever assembly is attaches so it's not going to be trivial. I want to oil the clutch cable line anyway so maybe that's a related job. e: also rode the bike out of my shop twice. So sweet having it moving under its own power, less sweet waddling it back into my shop
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Apr 7, 2019 00:36
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Good luck! Carb poo poo can be frustrating when it's on the cusp of running perfect but it still has problems
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Apr 7, 2019 04:15
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mewse posted:Pretty warm today (8c) so spent some time with the bike. Cable ties or safety wire work well in a pinch for the carb boots, yes this makes a difference. What sort of needle setting and pilot screw settings are you running? Air filter oiled foam or dry paper?
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Apr 7, 2019 12:00
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I think I’m going to try hose clamps. AFAIK the jets are stock. I ordered a kit with larger main jets for altitude and a needle shim, got pilot jets too but I think they’re the same size as stock. Seems a little pointless to install because the main jets don’t seem like a problem. I remember adjusting the idle mix really rich last fall, I think that needs to be revisited. Running the stock air box with new foam but I oiled it with K&N oil for their perm filters and it basically all flowed out of the foam, need to get actual foam filter oil.
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Apr 7, 2019 12:28
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Yeah I've found those screw on hose clamps work pretty well... I remember those stupid spring circles from my ninja, every part of removing the carb on that bike was a pain.
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Apr 7, 2019 15:14
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I bought some stainless hose clamps and I have a hanging fuel bottle I got last fall so I'm excited to start carb tuning again but it literally started snowing again this evening 
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Apr 9, 2019 02:15
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Spent some time today trying to get those hose clamps on, what a bitch of a job. I think my air box is secured with two bolts underneath the battery? I loosened those and it didn't improve things much. I ended up pulling the carbs because I might as well install the jet kit I bought if I'm loving around with them this much. I did get the clutch cable lubed which was very satisfying, and filled up my hanging fuel bottle so I can do a proper tune when things are set up.
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Apr 14, 2019 00:53
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Jet kit / needle shims installed. One of the old pilot jets looked a little occluded, maybe from sitting over winter without carbs drained.
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Apr 14, 2019 18:20
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Got the air intake ducts clamped to the carbs today, what a freakin nightmare. The good news is that the engine seems to like it, will see how it behaves once it's warmed up. I gave the carbs the stock 2.5 turns out on the idle mix screws instead of the 8 or whatever I had them set to in the fall, I must have been compensating for the lean mix because of too much air. e: oh i finally got the ducts on by running a long extension cord to my shed and using a hair dryer to soften the rubber mewse fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Apr 18, 2019 |
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Apr 18, 2019 02:54
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I really enjoy following this thread. I can’t wait to hear about your first real ride where you obsess about everything that may break or fail.
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Apr 20, 2019 12:38
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Crayvex posted:I really enjoy following this thread. I can’t wait to hear about your first real ride where you obsess about everything that may break or fail. It will probably just be something small like the brakes or the carbs
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Apr 20, 2019 15:44
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This is indeed a cool and good thread, I love seeing and hearing about your progress.
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Apr 20, 2019 22:37
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Thanks for the kind words. I think I can finally say the engine is tuned. Kinda embarrassing it took me an entire year to get the air intake hooked up properly, but it's made a world of difference in the engine idle. I never really had problems up in the rev range with the main jets engaged but the amount of air coming in messed up the idle so I was trying to fiddle with pilot jets, idle mix screws, etc. All I've really got left is prep+paint the remaining front fairing and then reassembly
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Apr 21, 2019 06:57
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SeaGoatSupreme posted:This is indeed a cool and good thread, I love seeing and hearing about your progress.
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Apr 21, 2019 12:08
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Photos of the hose clamps on the air intake  
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Apr 22, 2019 03:41
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You're making me miss pulling my old Suzuki apart every few weeks just so I could get it running right, and swearing, sweating, and grunting while I feel the hose clamp slip off the machined shoulder on the carb riiiiiight as I have it tight enough. Well, maybe not, but I'm enjoying watching you do it!
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Apr 22, 2019 05:23
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Elviscat posted:You're making me miss pulling my old Suzuki apart every few weeks just so I could get it running right, and swearing, sweating, and grunting while I feel the hose clamp slip off the machined shoulder on the carb riiiiiight as I have it tight enough. If you’re that nostalgic, you’re more than welcome to come fiddle around with mine.
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Apr 22, 2019 14:40
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Put paint+primer on the remaining fairing and started reassembly. I've got these aluminum bolts for fairings and theyre so drat soft they are stripping out on a couple bolt holes. My paint job was so sloppy with runs everywhere but YOLO
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Apr 23, 2019 03:56
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Have you ever tried wetsanding? You can smooth out those runs and orange peel. Just make sure the paint is nice and thick.
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Apr 23, 2019 22:58
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Gorson posted:Have you ever tried wetsanding? You can smooth out those runs and orange peel. Just make sure the paint is nice and thick. I might do this, I'm just on the fence whether I care, I got a really nice finish on like 80% of the fairing. The soft aluminum bolts are bothering me. I don't really have a place to order metric fasteners from except aliexpress and they take 2-3 months to show up. Anyone have advice for diagnosing the dash temperature gauge? I don't think it's working, despite the bike knowing to start the fan on the radiator when things heat up.
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Apr 25, 2019 05:07
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For odd size Metric bolts try McMaster Carr, they deliver, and their prices are surprisingly low, if not them, see if a Grainger is in your area.
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Apr 25, 2019 05:28
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Placed an order with mcmaster carr, didn't know they ship to Canada, might be recent
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Apr 25, 2019 06:11
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Crapmaster is all encompassing, check the input to the gash dage to ensure the sensor is varying resistance over the temp range, if not, it's the dash, and I have no loving clue.
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Apr 25, 2019 06:15
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This might be overkill, but if the McMaster Carr bolts you ordered are steel, you might want to coat them in a thin film of copper antiseize before mounting them, because of the reaction between steel and the aluminum engine. I have heard that this reaction between the two metals will bind the bolt threads to the aluminum over time, and the antiseize keeps this from happening. (I read about this happening to boats/boat engines, where people regularly opt to use stainless steel fasteners)
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Apr 25, 2019 15:01
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Slide Hammer posted:This might be overkill, but if the McMaster Carr bolts you ordered are steel, you might want to coat them in a thin film of copper antiseize before mounting them, because of the reaction between steel and the aluminum engine. I have heard that this reaction between the two metals will bind the bolt threads to the aluminum over time, and the antiseize keeps this from happening. (I read about this happening to boats/boat engines, where people regularly opt to use stainless steel fasteners) I've heard the same thing about mixing galvanic/stainless steels. These bolts for the plastics and side covers go in the frame so it's all steel.
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Apr 25, 2019 15:09
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Slide Hammer posted:This might be overkill, but if the McMaster Carr bolts you ordered are steel, you might want to coat them in a thin film of copper antiseize before mounting them, because of the reaction between steel and the aluminum engine. I have heard that this reaction between the two metals will bind the bolt threads to the aluminum over time, and the antiseize keeps this from happening. (I read about this happening to boats/boat engines, where people regularly opt to use stainless steel fasteners) I'm gonna step in here and say don't do this. Anti seize helpful for stopping steel fasteners rusting together, don't use it on alloy stuff as it tends to just nuke the thread the first time you take the bolt out. A little bit of gear oil or grease on the threads is a lot less damaging. mewse posted:I might do this, I'm just on the fence whether I care, I got a really nice finish on like 80% of the fairing. Fan thermo switch and dash temp sender are different things. Figure out which of the two is which, test your sender resistance at room temperature and then in a cup of hot water - the reading should change in step with temperature. Have you got a wiring diagram? A GPX or similar should have the same wiring setup. You could also try supplying the gauge 12V fed through a resistor.
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Apr 25, 2019 20:21
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