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Javid posted:I've been thinking about the headlight thing recently and it wouldn't take any fancy Arduino poo poo, just a relay, triggered by key-on power. You don't even need to make it that complicated. A lot of cars (especially 70s and 80s stuff) would sound the headlight on reminder anytime you opened the driver's door with the lights on, regardless of if the key was on or not. If the door switch is the type that just grounds the circuit, all you need to do is wire the buzzer between the dash illumination circuit (BEFORE the dimmer) or the parking light circuit, and the driver's door switch. If the door switch is a 2 wire type that actually gets power, then you could either wire a buzzer between the dome light circuit and a parking light ground, or go with a normally closed relay circuit that will only allow the buzzer to ground if the parking light circuit has power (wire the coil side in to the parking light circuit).
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Mar 29, 2019 07:04
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I've got a Weber 32/36 carburetor that I want to rebuild, but before I start I'm trying to free up the secondary air blade, it's seized to the body with corrosion. I've hit it with penetrating oil, and have had it sitting in a shallow bath of ATF for two weeks but it still won't budge. Any ideas?
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Mar 29, 2019 14:47
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Weber 32/36s are one of the most copied and prolific carburetors. In my mind, I'd just drop $70 on a knockoff and move components over. The way they're tuned is so backwards that even if they're working right, sometimes I'm like, "Is this working right?"
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Mar 29, 2019 15:25
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LOL! I've got like 10 different tabs open right now about how to tune them. I'm putting it on a 216ci Chevy straight 6, I've never seen the copies that cheap, most were around $200 or more. I picked this one up for $15, it's a copy itself according to what I read, says Weber North America. E- Yeah they're not quite that cheap, and I already bought a redline rebuild kit. Worst case if I can't free it up soon I'll just buy a new one and throw this one on eBay for $100/bo. VVV Thanks for the info VVV always be closing fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Mar 29, 2019 |
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Mar 29, 2019 15:49
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Very popular with the ACVW guys, so check out those ebay listings and sites for copies, and tuning guides. Prepare to buy weird air jets from crazy greybeards in Oklahoma or whatever.
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Mar 29, 2019 15:51
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STR posted:Honestly, you run the risk of insurance totaling it, just because of the age if nothing else (insurance will probably value it at not much more than scrap value unless it's in exceptional condition, and they'll probably throw in bumper refinishing and some radiator support repair). The guy took the effort to track her down afterwards, which is better than what 99% of people do when they hit a car in a parking lot. You may see if he's up for just paying for parts out of pocket. Going brand new on them is kinda pointless on a nearly 30 year old car, though. You called it pretty accurately on this, STR: The fella's insurance had an adjuster come out and yesterday we received a message saying that they deemed the car a total loss. I havent yet touched base with the adjuster but I see that the car is likely valued around $2000-$3500 according to KBB & NADA estimates. Since I've put roughly $850 dollars worth of parts (plus my own labor) into it, including a new steering rack; front suspension refresh; timing belt and rebuilt fueling system, I'm not too keen on letting it go over such a minor cosmetic issue. I know this car pretty thoroughly and I'm confident that buying it back is the best thing for our family's situation currently (as much as I really enjoy car-shopping), however I'm not sure how much negotiation is possible from my end if the adjuster's value is below my expectations. Is there anything I can do or keep in mind at this point in the process to ensure a positive outcome for us? stone soup fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Mar 29, 2019 |
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Mar 29, 2019 16:47
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Wally Joyner posted:You called it pretty accurately on this, STR: I was in the sorta the same boat. Had a Mazda 626 where I redid most of the front suspension. Shocks, control arms, etc. Of course a week later a friend of my wife (small world) collided into it making a slight a cosmetic wound across the side of the car. Anyways totalled, but after a call to State Farm saying "buy back" they did the difference and no salvage title because the title never traded hands. YMMV of course given whatever your state is. They probably look at is welp, now we have a car we have to dispose of why not let some sucker insurance owner of the car take it off our hands for a pittance.
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Mar 29, 2019 17:14
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C-Bangin' it 
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So, remote PPI services like LemonSquad. Are they legit?
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Mar 29, 2019 18:32
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I was quoted $1,590 to get my front bumper cover, front grille surround, and hood re-painted the factory color on my 1997 BMW 318i in Schwarz II/black, with all the parts off the car and everything removed except the existing paint. Is . . . is that high? I was expecting about half that from reading around. Here is the estimate: Breakdown, Totals. I don't have any experience with bodyshops and I'm not sure why there appears to be an extra 12.8 in the totals. They seem like a reputable shop and I was expecting prices to be higher than normal, but not quite that high, so I could use a sanity check. Thanks!
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Mar 30, 2019 00:09
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The quote does look kind of fucky. Why are supplies being listed in terms of hours and $/h? Did you ask about that? Is it a super rare color? Is paint really $400+?
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Mar 30, 2019 02:20
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All those lines are for repair. There is 4 hours on the hood. Is it damaged?
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Mar 30, 2019 02:40
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I just changed my rear brakes on my 2014 Mazda3 and it was super easy! Such a different experience working on a 5 yro car vs my old 93 Honda Civic which was held together by rust. Turns out the passenger rear brake pad was wearing down uneveningly, the pads on the driver side were still fine. I decided to make the change, and lube up the caliper bolts even more, and hope that was the problem. I think worst case is in another 30k miles I need to change them early if I thought through things correctly. Was there something else I needed to get repaired? Or should have done differently when seeing the wear pattern?
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Mar 30, 2019 03:11
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polyester concept posted:The quote does look kind of fucky. Why are supplies being listed in terms of hours and $/h? Did you ask about that? Is it a super rare color? Is paint really $400+? Looking at other estimates online, it seems to be standard to measure supplies by hours. I guess they figure that the hours of paint labor/spraying time is also a convenient way to measure the quantity of paint sprayed during that time? Which is why for the total, they (as far as I can tell) just take the paint labor estimate and copy/paste it for the paint supplies estimate? If that's how they do it the total looks correct, albeit much higher than I expected. The color is just the bog standard black that BMW used in the 90's, so yeah $400 seems surprising. big crush on Chad OMG posted:All those lines are for repair. There is 4 hours on the hood. Is it damaged? No damage at all, but it still has the old paint on it. 4 hours to take a hood down to metal does feel high. "Repaired panel" might indicate that these are loose parts that I'm bringing to them off the car, I'm not sure why that appears as an extra charge, I assumed that would make everything easier for them. Here are the pictures I sent them to get the estimate, the bumper is basically brand new and the hood/grille came off a 75k mile car:   Maybe this is just their "gently caress off we don't want this job" price, though I don't know what would have triggered that. I just sent those pics and a pic of the paint code and asked for an estimate. Maybe painting loose parts is a pain for them 
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Mar 30, 2019 03:14
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Spikes32 posted:I just changed my rear brakes on my 2014 Mazda3 and it was super easy! Such a different experience working on a 5 yro car vs my old 93 Honda Civic which was held together by rust. If the old grease on the bolts were crusty that might have been the problem, if they still looked fresh it might be your calipers. Though the latter seems less likely on a 2014. On all the old rear end cars I've worked on, it's mostly been the calipers. Don't Mazda pins have that weird rubber bushing on the lower one? Those like to perish or puff up on Toyotas if the wrong grease was used on them at some point (or just for the hell of it) and cause the pin to stick. I replace that every brake job and the pins too if they start looking janky/pitted.
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Mar 30, 2019 03:27
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Anyone know if this caliper cube tool will work on a 2013 Mazda 3 rear brakes? It looks like "probably" but I'd rather confirm. Or if someone wants to link something that is confirmed to work. I can try the needle nose pliers if I have to but I'll just buy a tool if it's not too expensive.
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Mar 30, 2019 03:53
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Yes. Used one on my MS3 which I'm 99.999% certain uses the same rear brake hardware as the regular 3.
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Mar 30, 2019 05:22
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Xy Hapu posted:No damage at all, but it still has the old paint on it. 4 hours to take a hood down to metal does feel high. "Repaired panel" might indicate that these are loose parts that I'm bringing to them off the car, I'm not sure why that appears as an extra charge, I assumed that would make everything easier for them. Here are the pictures I sent them to get the estimate, the bumper is basically brand new and the hood/grille came off a 75k mile car: Comedy option: carbon fiber vinyl wrap. I was coming in to ask a related question though: how bad is it to strip automotive paint yourself? I am thinking of doing a roller job* on my Lite Ace at some point, as the body has its share of dings and a lengthy scratch or two I'd like to patch up with bog. The PO has kinda gone over bits here and there with a roller or brush as the factory paint has chipped off over the years - basically I have little to lose aesthetically and I'm not going into it expecting perfection. OTOH, stripping the my KLR's tank down to bare metal last year was torture, and borrowing an orbital sander only made it halfway tolerable. To be fair, I think it had a lot of coats of clear over the factory decals, which definitely made things worse. Obviously I'll want to sand the van with progressively finer sandpaper, prime it, etc but based on my experience with the motorcycle fuel tank, my biggest concern is how arduous it'll be to remove the factory paint. Anyone have any thoughts? *please don't try to sell me on getting a spray gun, it is not happening! No indoor workspace, not going for showroom quality, can't be bothered doing all the masking, etc. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Mar 30, 2019 |
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Mar 30, 2019 05:46
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Xy Hapu posted:If the old grease on the bolts were crusty that might have been the problem, if they still looked fresh it might be your calipers. Though the latter seems less likely on a 2014. On all the old rear end cars I've worked on, it's mostly been the calipers. One of the pins on that side was much less oiled than the other, so I'm going to hope it was that. I don't think the calipers have an issue. And no weird rubber bushing that I noticed on the lower one, but I might not have known what to look for.
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Mar 30, 2019 06:43
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Wally Joyner posted:You called it pretty accurately on this, STR: Start looking at Craigslist, eBay, and local dealers for the closest matches you can find. Print them out, noting differences and mileage. The local Toyota dealers should be your first stop, look at their CPO section (if they'll do CPO on something that old; otherwise, look at their regular used inventory). If you can talk them into it, see what Carmax would offer you on trade if it was not wrecked (they may or may not do this, but Carmax generally offers a pretty fair amount for trades, even ones they're going to send to auction). For that matter, see if your local Carmax has anything comparable in stock within a few hundred miles - they price their cars at the very high end of what they'd normally be worth, but also tend to have cars that are like new aside from what the odometer shows. They're pretty picky about what they put on their lots. The receipts will help bring the value up, but not as much as you'd think. Your best bet is to fight hard for it to be valued higher than what they think, and the initial offer is going to be either fair or a sack slap. A friend had to argue for over 6 months to finally get a fair payout on his car after hail totaled it (DFW got hit with loving grapefruit sized hail that week - there was no fixing that car, the roof was caved in around the front seats just from the hail) - it was a Honda Accord, but it was a very low mileage, top of the line V6 + 6 speed manual with literally every option except "automatic transmission" checked. They were using LX and DX 4 cylinder automatics to compare it to, and when he asked for the comps, they all had at least double to triple the mileage. Colostomy Bag posted:Anyways totalled, but after a call to State Farm saying "buy back" they did the difference and no salvage title because the title never traded hands. My claims adjuster from Geico assured me I wouldn't get a salvage brand on my title, since I bought it back and the title never changed hands. So when I finally got the paper title (it'd had an electronic title, never got a paper one until then), it was showing something like (can't remember word for word) "salvage, not rebuilt" (so basically, registration cancelled, plates cancelled). Which meant if I did fix it, I would have had to send it through a salvage inspection. Which requires a VIN and receipt for every part used to "rebuild" the car.  Glad I wasn't driving it; if I'd been pulled over it would have been bad.TX salvage inspection is 99% paperwork (the actual salvage inspection is just a normal yearly inspection here, except with a little extra glance at the VIN tags - at least, the one time I had to go through it), but you have to keep good records. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Mar 30, 2019 |
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Mar 30, 2019 10:15
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Would these exhaust tips look dumb on my stock civic? (Not my car)
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Mar 30, 2019 23:30
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Rock My Socks! posted:Would these exhaust tips look dumb on my stock civic? (Not my car) Kind of like throwing a match on a fire at this point isn't it?
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Mar 31, 2019 00:42
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More of a gut check question I guess. I have a 2017 Tacoma with a cap. I have been using a bed divider for a year or so to keep some stuff at the front of the bed. I took it out to haul some lumber and noticed the truck was much more prone to have the rear end bounce about at speed while taking a turn. Is the bed divider acting as a de facto rear sway bar? It is a rigid steel fence mounted over the rear axle.
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Mar 31, 2019 01:50
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It is likely reducing the amount the bed is flexing, plus if it is heavy it can help keep it down since empty pickup beds are pretty light. I know my truck handles better if the 3rd row seats are installed.
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Mar 31, 2019 05:00
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Still drawing a blank on this: What can I use on a throttle body if throttle/carb/MAF-cleaners are no longer available to buy? Some places suggest Brake Clean but I hear it isn't great for carbon and might damage it.
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Mar 31, 2019 07:04
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MrOnBicycle posted:Still drawing a blank on this: What can I use on a throttle body if throttle/carb/MAF-cleaners are no longer available to buy? Some places suggest Brake Clean but I hear it isn't great for carbon and might damage it. You can still order these products from local online shops: https://www.josema.se/product/bensin-egr-rengoring https://www.autoexperten.se/produkt/spjallhusrengoring-bensinpro/ https://www.autoparts.se/sv/articles/2.246.638203/crc-crc-air-sensor-clean-pro-250ml-ersatter-cr30498 https://www.seasea.se/kem-tekniskt/kem-tekniskt/crc-spray/f%C3%B6rgasarreng%C3%B6ring-crc
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Mar 31, 2019 07:55
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Invalido posted:You can still order these products from local online shops: I only heard of autoexperten of those, but drat these were some very useful links.Thanks!
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Mar 31, 2019 08:14
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MrOnBicycle posted:I only heard of autoexperten of those, but drat these were some very useful links.Thanks! There's this one that I forgot to copypasta: https://www.skruvat.se/MAF-sensor-cleaner-P189128.aspx - surely you've heard of them? Cheap freight and fast delivery in my experience. Googling around a bit I can't quite figure out why these solvents aren't available at the usual brick and mortar getting places. They seem to be based on xylene or cycloalkanes that are more or less freely available in other products like paint thinners and whatnot. Maybe there's restrictions that only apply in spray can form? I don't know organic chemistry well enough to look into it though.
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Mar 31, 2019 09:42
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Invalido posted:There's this one that I forgot to copypasta: https://www.skruvat.se/MAF-sensor-cleaner-P189128.aspx - surely you've heard of them? Cheap freight and fast delivery in my experience. Yeah. Don't know why I didn't see that. Was looking for a physical store first since the shipping on small stuff here kinda sucks and it's nice to be able to get something whenever I need it. They tend to sneak out all the things that have been disallowed (for some reason), same with the R152a stuff and R132 stuff that could be bought at places like Biltema a couple of years ago.
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Mar 31, 2019 09:50
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If some wheels I want have a center bore of 83.82 should be I looking at 83.8 rings or 83.9 and shaving them a little?
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Mar 31, 2019 17:01
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They don稚 make the 83.82 in the size you need? What痴 the diameter you need?
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Mar 31, 2019 17:06
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:They don稚 make the 83.82 in the size you need? What痴 the diameter you need? edit: drat $40 for 4 instead of $10 I need 83.82 to 70.3 is that too much? Cage fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Mar 31, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2019 17:31
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Seems like I have tons of stupid questions so here goes: I'm thinking of mildly loving around with my waste gaste pre-load adjustment after reading that apparently the 1.4 MA engines before 2013 seem to be badly adjusted (and that it got changed in later models). Post after post rave about how it transforms (for the better) all the things that aren't that great with the setup/engine (especially the low end throttle control and town driving). Apart from the obvious gut reaction that I might gently caress it up and make the turbo build up too much pressure and prematurely wear/blow it up, are there any other considerations I should think of? My plan would be to check the current pre-load, and if it's too low, increase it to the low end of the "new" pre-load settings). Also cures a low boost code (that I don't have) that apparently is a common "fault" on these cars.
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Mar 31, 2019 17:43
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Dumb question: Someone hit my mustang, agaiiiin. I have security video of it happening, but it's a large unmarked (box) truck, and plates aren't visible. Is there any avenue that may work out with my insurance rates not rising on this? I'm thinking take the videos to the local PD, fight until they finally decide I can file a report, then take that report to the insurance company, and claim under (comprehensive?). Maybe relevant pieces: The car was street parked, I was nowhere near it, and the driver did not make any attempt to stop - basically, he slowed down as if he thought he wasn't going to make the turn, his rear driver wheel appears to have hit my vehicle (rear bumper), then he takes off up the alley and makes another questionable turn (around a store). It's possible he was delivering something to the store, but I don't have anything to suggest that so far, so I think it's maybe a question for the PD, not me to ask. But I'm totally up for advice.
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Mar 31, 2019 20:28
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The claim would have to filed under your collision coverage. You would pay the deductible; the only way you could get it back is through subrogation, which is not an avenue your company can pursue if the truck can't be identified & the owner/insurer pursued for recovery. Not sure how the rate increase would go. You were hit while parked & unattended. On the other hand, undewriters calculate premium by risk, including your loss experience; sure, it would be less than an at-fault occurrence, but you might see an increase simply because you got hit.
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Mar 31, 2019 20:35
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PainterofCrap posted:The claim would have to filed under your collision coverage. You would pay the deductible; the only way you could get it back is through subrogation, which is not an avenue your company can pursue if the truck can't be identified & the owner/insurer pursued for recovery. If I call my insurance company, but they are able to subrogate (that's a lot of ifs, I know), does that still affect my rates? (I.e., if the PD can identify, does it matter if I call their insurance company or mine?)
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Mar 31, 2019 20:38
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Krakkles posted:Sounds like the best thing I can do is report it, and hope that the PD cares, and gets lucky? How bad was the damage?
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Mar 31, 2019 20:58
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Colostomy Bag posted:How bad was the damage? The shape is still fine at least from basic inspection, but the paint is hosed.
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Mar 31, 2019 21:02
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shortspecialbus posted:Anyone know if this caliper cube tool will work on a 2013 Mazda 3 rear brakes? It looks like "probably" but I'd rather confirm. Or if someone wants to link something that is confirmed to work. I can try the needle nose pliers if I have to but I'll just buy a tool if it's not too expensive. the farm trick is using a c clamp and channel locks. I have never had good luck with the cube. Got a proper tool from Mac but I did it for a living.
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Mar 31, 2019 23:57
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Krakkles posted:Lots of tire rubber on the bumper (easy to fix), several spots of wear (paint is less shiny, etc), and at least one major crack + paint flaking off. Before calling it in, get an estimate & see if it's worth reporting. If you haven't already, you should file a police report to get a record of the event. With respect to rate increases: I cannot say with confidence, as I work on the claims side. Your carrier could raise your rates simply because it happened irrespective of recovery, although they shouldn't; they may not raise them if they collect in subro. First, see if it's worth you deductible to file it. If you do file it, and your rates go up, you can speak with your agent and argue against it since the car was parked & unattended, but there's no guarantee.
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Apr 1, 2019 01:22
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Keep in mind that in some states, if you have uninsured motorist property damage coverage, this may be covered under that coverage instead of collision. It depends on your state. Texas is one state that allows this, and it's saved my rear end twice when people whacked my car in parking lots.
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Apr 1, 2019 07:13
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