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Or possibly using some chipping fluid and just gently dragging a stiff brush down, followed by some touch-ups after so it looks more worn than chipped.
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Apr 4, 2019 03:51
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I'm going to try all three options tonight on my test model. Thanks very much, I haven't used chipping medium before but that sounds like the way to go. I feel like just dry rushing won't look great, but maybe a little of both chipping medium and then a light drybrush will do the trick as well to get it looking mottled/worn.
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Apr 4, 2019 03:55
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Paint it the undercolour, hit it with hairspray, paint overtop, rub parts away with a wet cotton swab
Team_q fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Apr 4, 2019 |
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Apr 4, 2019 04:55
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:When people say that P3 paints "take some getting used to," what exactly are they talking about? I've seen a lot of people mention that they're not a good choice for beginners, etc., but are they really that different from other paints? What about them is so much trickier to work with? I really love a few of their colors but I'm pretty much just starting and I have no clue if I'd have issues with them. I've never heard this said of P3 paint, only Scale 75. All the P3 paints I've tried are pretty great, they come slightly thinner than GW paints but cover a lot better in my experience. Coal Black is excellent, Menoth White Highlight is a great off-white cream for highlighting, and their pure black and white are both better than the GW equivalents.
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Apr 4, 2019 05:18
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Only thing I really ever ran into with P3 paints is some can be a little more prone to running like crazy on a wet palette overnight with the liquid pigment.
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Apr 4, 2019 11:08
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Team_q posted:Paint it the undercolour, hit it with hairspray, paint overtop, rub parts away with a wet cotton swab This is the method I was thinking of as well.
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Apr 4, 2019 12:09
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:This is the method I was thinking of as well. I'll try this one too. I tried chipping medium but I think I hosed up. I pulled off some primer and all sorts, didn't look right. I think it will work with a hard bristle brush better so I'll give it another go. Dry brush actually looks surprisingly legit. It's not exactly what I want, but it's alright.   I'll try the hairspray method too. This poor bastard, he's had more coats of paints and toxic baths than any model in history by now 
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Apr 4, 2019 12:32
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Finished Stormsire's Cursebreakers        I need to set up a colored background so my camera doesn't freak out.
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Apr 4, 2019 15:39
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Electric Hobo posted:I need to set up a colored background so my camera doesn't freak out. That might be best for mostly white models  They look silky smooth. Looks good, dude. Did you do anything for the gaps? A lot of those push-fit Stormcast models are really lovely. Even if you clip the pegs off entirely they don't fit together very well, in my experience.
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Apr 4, 2019 15:50
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Sab669 posted:That might be best for mostly white models  Yeah, I greenstuffed in a few places, where it was really bad. The stormcast are definitely the worst of the Underworlds bunch to assemble, but I think that the cursebreakers are the best of the stormcast.
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Apr 4, 2019 15:59
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Finished my first two Guild Ball Cooks today!
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Apr 4, 2019 19:17
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You know you're dedicated to your craft when you wear a whole cooked chicken a chain around your neck. The true Flava Flav.
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Apr 4, 2019 19:30
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You never know if a game's going to run long. The man's just prepared.
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Apr 4, 2019 20:01
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I did a little work on a boxnought last night to use with my Ultramarines force. I want to keep my small marines & Primaris marines separate, so i'm doing the small boys as Iron Snakes.    I used the Vallejo Metal Colour Dark Aluminum & Aluminum or the metallic bits. Did a 2x wash on the mechanical parts with Nuln Oil, but otherwise left the body sharp. First time trying to freehand a symbol too. I might paint over the symbols and try again with a water color brush. I'm just not getting the result I want on it.
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Apr 4, 2019 20:03
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Zuul the Cat posted:I did a little work on a boxnought last night to use with my Ultramarines force. I want to keep my small marines & Primaris marines separate, so i'm doing the small boys as Iron Snakes. I love the freehand, the little bit of blue really helps the color scheme work. What colors are you planning to use for the cables?
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Apr 4, 2019 20:51
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JBP posted:Here is one for the paint boffins. I want to paint some sisters of battle using Venetian tones, roughly: Many ways to do this as the thread has already pointed out. Personally, I wouldn't use chipping medium, but rely on layers of stippling with a brush or sponge. Start with the metal undercoat, build up some highlights, weather it with a sponge, then use the same sponge to build up an orange base color ontop of the metal. Don't wash the whole model after that, but use washes to modulate the color in some areas. The white specks would come at the very end, probably a white pigment mixed with water that you flicked onto the surface with an old brush to create that spatter effect.
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Apr 4, 2019 21:03
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Grundma posted:I love the freehand, the little bit of blue really helps the color scheme work. What colors are you planning to use for the cables? Thanks! I'm thinking of just keeping them black. I really don't want many other colors on there aside from Red & Blue. Searchlight will be yellow.
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Apr 4, 2019 21:25
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Zuul the Cat posted:Thanks! I'm thinking of just keeping them black. I really don't want many other colors on there aside from Red & Blue. Searchlight will be yellow. I like using a dark ink to differentiate them somewhat.
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Apr 4, 2019 21:42
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Can anyone explain how these things work? I assume it is all the colors you want to use on the models?
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Apr 4, 2019 21:47
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Electric Hobo posted:Finished Stormsire's Cursebreakers Those are some very nice whites, blacks and reds!
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Apr 4, 2019 22:12
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Professor Shark posted:Can anyone explain how these things work? I assume it is all the colors you want to use on the models? Yeah it's just a representation of a "Venetian" colour palette I'm using. Red armour and then detail in the other colours. Will try to go for white gold and bright gold metals. It's all earthy except for the darker blue (I think they used Egyptian blue). My dude is sitting in paint eliminator for when I get home. Will probably try a different method on different panels for the sake of brevity.
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Apr 4, 2019 22:57
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What’s the hairspray method do? What’s in hairspray that makes it cool to work with paints?
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Apr 5, 2019 04:04
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:What’s the hairspray method do? What’s in hairspray that makes it cool to work with paints? The hairspray is water-soluble, which means you paint your chip color, hit it with hairspray, and then airbrush a layer of paint over that, and then when you wet the surface, some of that water soaks through the paint and dissolves the underlying hairspray layer, which you can chip off, taking the paint layer above off with it and revealing small chips of the chip color underneath.
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Apr 5, 2019 08:28
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Stephenls posted:The hairspray is water-soluble, which means you paint your chip color, hit it with hairspray, and then airbrush a layer of paint over that, and then when you wet the surface, some of that water soaks through the paint and dissolves the underlying hairspray layer, which you can chip off, taking the paint layer above off with it and revealing small chips of the chip color underneath.  Grizzled Patriarch posted:When people say that P3 paints "take some getting used to," what exactly are they talking about? I've seen a lot of people mention that they're not a good choice for beginners, etc., but are they really that different from other paints? What about them is so much trickier to work with? I really love a few of their colors but I'm pretty much just starting and I have no clue if I'd have issues with them. As to why they're "not a good choice for beginners", personally I'd say that's a load of horseshit. Yes, they are slightly less opaque because they want you to two-brush blend everything, which really just means some colors might need three this coats instead of two to get full coverage. Once you get used to the little quirks and differences between P3 and other paint lines, though, there's definitely some nice colors in there that aren't easily replicated by other lines. Because of that, though, it's a colossal ballache to reproduce their colors if you run out and the local store doesn't have another pot in stock. Like, sure Incubi Darkness comes close to Coal Black, but if you put the two next to each other there's a world of difference. The worst part is, the entire P3 line is like that, where you can get close to a lot of their colors, but you're not finding an almost complete match to any of their colors right out of the pot/dropper bottle. Combine that with the fact that most tutorials out on the internet tend to use either GW or Vallejo colors almost exclusively, and you can kinda understand why people say not to use them starting out.
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Apr 5, 2019 09:50
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A bigger detractor for someone starting is P3 don't really have a decent 'set' of 10-12 paints you can just pick up. The faction color sets are a good deal but limited in range so you'd need 2-3 at least to cover your basics. Otherwise their per-pot prices can be kind of high, though at least you're getting more than Citadel.
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Apr 5, 2019 14:27
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P3 is my brand of choice, their metallics are not great but I find they cover better than val or gw.
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Apr 5, 2019 14:50
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Eifert Posting posted:P3 is my brand of choice, their metallics are not great but I find they cover better than val or gw. I absolutely love Pig Iron. Haven't used their Bronze or Silver in a very long time though. GW's Retributor Armor is the best Gold I've ever used though.
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Apr 5, 2019 14:53
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On hairspray weathering, basically it's one of a wide range of methods of amking the top layer of paint friable and easy to remove. Hairspray, salt, toothpaste, ketchup, mustard, (any condiment, paste or powder would probably do in a pinch) are all things I've seen used, as are specialist masking fluids usually made of latex. I've used that last one on props, it works fine. Hairspray is a little different than the others as it changes the texture of the whole paint layer, rather than just in specific areas, so it's good for making broader wear and tear on larger items.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:05
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thespaceinvader posted:ketchup, mustard, Gonna need some explanation here.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:09
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grassy gnoll posted:Gonna need some explanation here. I've seen both used by prop painters for the same reason you'd use any other masking medium.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:11
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Eifert Posting posted:P3 is my brand of choice, their metallics are not great but I find they cover better than val or gw. I've never seen it on a hobby store or LGS shelf. Scale 75, either. Yet I hear about both fairly often from painters I follow. Are they reasonably priced like Vallejo or do they perform significantly better than Citadel? I've tried a few Vallejos for the convenience of dropper bottles combined with the better price per oz
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Apr 5, 2019 15:37
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thespaceinvader posted:I've seen both used by prop painters for the same reason you'd use any other masking medium. Okay, that makes sense. Given the context of this thread, I was trying to figure out why you were rubbing your Space Marines with French's instead of using a regular mask.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:50
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I buy online for P3 and there are always sales, but availability is always an issue. Anyone who wants to try it I recommend the Khador set or khador red + highlight. It's the best red out there.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:51
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Eifert Posting posted:I buy online for P3 and there are always sales, but availability is always an issue. Anyone who wants to try it I recommend the Khador set or khador red + highlight. It's the best red out there. Don't forget your 12 layers of red ink glazing to really tie that all together! 
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Apr 5, 2019 16:12
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How different are Scale 75 paints? I picked up 10 bottles at Adepticon on a whim but I'm not sure how they would go on top of GW / Vallejo. Also, I read earlier that acrylic paints get permanently messed up if they get near freezing - is this guarenteed? I think I've left a bottle or 2 in my car for a few hours in the winter before... Professor Shark posted:Man, this Cream is kicking my rear end: What brand/color is that? Looks like it would be a good highlight color for my Death Guard.
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Apr 5, 2019 16:26
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Fake James posted:How different are Scale 75 paints? I picked up 10 bottles at Adepticon on a whim but I'm not sure how they would go on top of GW / Vallejo. Scale75 paints use a gel-based medium so they start thicker and can be thinned a lot further before they start to separate out. It's the brand I use on my minis the most, and they work fine with GW and vallejo. They have more of a matte finish, but that all gets evened by whatever varnishes you use.
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Apr 5, 2019 16:45
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Booyah- posted:https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV Hey, this is arriving today for me! Does anyone know if the cable will work with my badger sotar or if I should head out on my lunch to buy an adapter...
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Apr 5, 2019 17:38
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It won't without an adapter, but I think badger airbrushes usually come with the adapter.
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Apr 5, 2019 19:02
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For anyone thinking about the Games & Gears paint brushes, don't. Their primary claim is that the last longer yet I already have a #1 brush with a curled tip after four models.
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Apr 5, 2019 19:10
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The Moon Monster posted:It won't without an adapter, but I think badger airbrushes usually come with the adapter. It didn't, which do I need? Or is there just a main one.
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Apr 5, 2019 19:56
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