|
Need advice on an aftermarket water cooler for a 2080 Ti FE? The EK one says it's not compatible with the FE backplate 
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 18:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 19:39 |
|
|
There is a water cooling thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3786165
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 19:27
|
|
|
Cool Dogs Only posted:Micro Center finally restocked the Pro Carbon AC so I can start purchasing this build. I made some slight tweaks since my last post: Congrats if you can get it. That's the board I really wanted, but I gave up after weeks of backorder and settled on the ASUS PRIME X470-PRO. I'm a bit nervous about getting decent speeds out of my RAM, though. Have 16GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16) and have seen mixed feedback with the PRO. From what I can tell, my set are Samsung B-Die, so that gives me a bit of hope. vvv Yeah, I would have gone with DDR4 3000 to avoid potential headaches, but this is RAM I bought in 2-3 years back before prices spiked for a build that never materialized. ok_dirdel fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Apr 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 21:00
|
|
|
teh_Broseph posted:Not a huge deal, but check out DDR3200 RAM - I did a similar build recently and it was about the same price to get the little faster 3200 RAM over the 3000 RAM I was looking at. (I was looking at 3000 for it being CL15 rated, but AMD just uses odd numbers so it would actually run at CL16, same rate as the 3200 anyway.) The biggest reason that I haven't been recommending 3200 RAM is that non-QVL 3200 RAM can be hit-or-miss with AM4 boards, even with Ryzen 2's improved memory support. The cheapest AMD QVL 3200 kit right now is this G.Skill Flare X kit for $105, which is $30 more expensive than the Aegis (which is QVL for 3000). Going for a cheaper kit like $95 Ripjaws might work at 3200, and will usually at least run at 3000MHz, but at that point you might as well saved the $20 on an Aegis! Also note that CAS latency is rated in clock cycles, so actual latency is also dependent on speed. 3000/C15 is actually pretty close to identical to 3200/16! Of course 3200/16 will have slightly less latency than 3000/C16, but in the difference won't be noticeable. In fact, latency differences in general won't make noticeable real-world performance differences.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 21:41
|
|
|
Stickman posted:The biggest reason that I haven't been recommending 3200 RAM is that non-QVL 3200 RAM can be hit-or-miss with AM4 boards, even with Ryzen 2's improved memory support. The cheapest AMD QVL 3200 kit right now is this G.Skill Flare X kit for $105, which is $30 more expensive than the Aegis (which is QVL for 3000). Going for a cheaper kit like $95 Ripjaws might work at 3200, and will usually at least run at 3000MHz, but at that point you might as well saved the $20 on an Aegis! I have 2x16gb g.skill Ripjaws V 3200 and my MSI x470 carbon pro recognized them without any problems. I just had to activate profile#2 and it really runs 3200Mhz.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 22:09
|
|
|
Okay, I figure this is as good a place to ask as any because there's almost a 100% certainty of someone in here using the Corsair PRO series AIOs - in specific, the H150i PRO. I just attached the back bracket to my Aorus Xtreme board, and while I screwed up the first time and noticed I'd mounted the bracket horizontally instead of vertically (so the plastic was impacting the rear part of the socket), so I changed it around, and...there's about a 2mm "gap" between the bottom of the standoff screw and the board itself. Before anyone says it, yes, I'm sure I'm not using the LGA2xxx screws - I'm using the ones for LGA 1151(v2). Just out of morbid curiosity, I unscrewed one of the standoffs and fished out two of the fan washers and lined them up with the hole and *that* made it flush with no movement. But the directions don't tell you to do that. Naturally I'm not too keen on using metal washers to secure the bracket, and it *seems* like the washers are ~1mm in width, so I'd imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to get some hard rubber ~2mm washers at Home Depot. I just don't know why it's got the 'wiggle' it does by default, and I'm certainly not comfortable mounting a water block on a 9900K if there's chance of movement. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Apr 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 22:16
|
|
|
Media Bloodbath posted:I have 2x16gb g.skill Ripjaws V 3200 and my MSI x470 carbon pro recognized them without any problems. I just had to activate profile#2 and it really runs 3200Mhz. Yeah, they definitely work a lot of the time! It's just not guaranteed, which makes it hard to recommend. I'd personally recommend spending the extra $10 for the QVL kit for anyone who wants 3200, but choosing non-QVL kits usually works out as long as you're willing to take the risk.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 23:27
|
|
|
Heliosicle posted:Upgrading to an NVMe drive is definitely simpler simpler yeah. I currently have a 6 year old 256gb 840 pro, a 1TB and a 2TB HDD. Was thinking I'd keep the 2TB for data/backups as its the newest and least used and replace the other two with SSD's. Might just replace the 1 TB HD with an SSD. What's the lifetime on SSD's supposed to be like? Warranties look to have gotten shorter with the more recent versions. To me it seems hard to know what kind of answer you're looking for when it comes to SSD lifetime. A lot of drives today come with 5-year warranty, so unless SSDs used to come with longer ones way back in the early years, i.e. before I started paying attention to them 3-4 years ago, that seems to have not changed. And for the practical lifetime of a consumer SSD, just look at how many bytes have to be written in order for the drive to start failing. If you aren't running some kind of maniacal torture test 24 hours a day, a drive will last you many years.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 00:37
|
|
|
Pretty much all the better SSDs come with longer warranties than mechanical hard drives. As for endurance, for most people even the drives with the lowest endurance would last hundreds of years of ordinary every day usage. Someone once put a Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB drive through a endless torture test and it endured 9.1 PB (9,100 TB or over 35,000 total drive writes) before failing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 01:11
|
|
|
for an anecdotal real-world case, the first SSD i bought was over 3 years ago and it now has a big fat 16.1 TB of writes on it. this has been the boot drive in whichever computer at the time was my daily driver, so it's gotten use almost every day over that period. it is a 512 GB samsung EVO 840, so not the absolute top or bottom of consumer drives, but regardless, this drive needs many multiples of that 16.1 TB in order to start failing. i think an old anandtech test had a 256 GB version of my drive starting to have really bad results after like 100 TB of writes, so my dumb little rectangle will probably still be working years and years from now
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 01:32
|
|
|
SSD endurance is measured in drive writes per day, as a consumer you're never going to wear them out. They do die on their own eventually, but less so than an HDD which will have mechanical failure before then.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 01:56
|
|
|
Spacedad posted:I asked some other tech nerds in a discord chat I'm in about this - they suggested: Thanks for the suggestions. I switched the PSU to the SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply for $10 more. For the SSD, I checked out the SSD thread and it seems like the Inland Professional 1TB 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive from Micro Center might be a good replacement. It's $20 cheaper and I can pick it up tomorrow. I'm going to stick with the selected RAM based on Stickman's suggestions to avoid any headache. Any objections?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 03:12
|
|
|
Yeah, if you're going to pick up that SSD from Micro Center, hit up RetailMeNot's Micro Center page for a $5 off $30 in-store coupon.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 04:25
|
|
|
Lutha Mahtin posted:To me it seems hard to know what kind of answer you're looking for when it comes to SSD lifetime. A lot of drives today come with 5-year warranty, so unless SSDs used to come with longer ones way back in the early years, i.e. before I started paying attention to them 3-4 years ago, that seems to have not changed. And for the practical lifetime of a consumer SSD, just look at how many bytes have to be written in order for the drive to start failing. If you aren't running some kind of maniacal torture test 24 hours a day, a drive will last you many years. Yeah I was a bit unclear. Was just looking through the Samsung warranty page - my 840 pro has a 7 year warranty, the 850 pro's had a 10 year warranty, then everything went to 5 years, so was thinking maybe SSD's weren't lasting as long as they thought. Anyway my drive is on 37 TB of total writes, which is half what it's warrantied for.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 07:17
|
|
|
Cross posting here, but I'm selling some cheap rear end ddr4 2400 in SA Mart (please save me from eBay) 😇
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 15:25
|
|
|
I was thinking about upgrading my CPU because I think it's starting to bottleneck my GPU in certain games. My PC: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/67y6ZR I figured it would be more cost effective to upgrade my motherboard/RAM/CPU now rather than upgrading to an i7-3770k or something and keeping the motherboard I have now. If I'm aiming for ~100 fps at 1440p in a decently optimized game at all high settings, what motherboard/GPU/RAM should I consider?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 16:42
|
|
|
Uhh Nope posted:I was thinking about upgrading my CPU because I think it's starting to bottleneck my GPU in certain games. Everyone's probably going to tell you two things: 1) Make sure your 3570K has a reasonable overclock applied, you've actually got a nice board and fast RAM to pair quite well with an overclocked Ivy Bridge, and 2) Zen 2's reveal is almost certainly coming during Computex 2019, which starts on the 27th of May. That aside, I'm sure someone else will chime in and give some good advice about stuff you can buy right now
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 18:08
|
|
|
Is it possible to find a mounting bracket for a Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO for an AM4 motherboard anymore? I just ordered my new parts last night and I'm willing to just accept the Wraith Stealth that comes with the AMD Ryzen 2600 if I can't find the bracket. The AM4 motherboard in question is an MSI X470 Gaming Plus. It would be part of this build. I'm pretty much just keeping my hard drives and peripherals. PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bzQtGG Untrustable fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Apr 5, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 18:22
|
|
|
HalloKitty posted:Everyone's probably going to tell you two things: I like the idea of not having to upgrade everything just yet! My friend has a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO he said I could have so I was thinking I should at least try overclocking but how do I know if it can fit my motherboard/case? And will it give me enough cooling for a decent OC?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 19:24
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Okay, I figure this is as good a place to ask as any because there's almost a 100% certainty of someone in here using the Corsair PRO series AIOs - in specific, the H150i PRO. I just attached the back bracket to my Aorus Xtreme board, and while I screwed up the first time and noticed I'd mounted the bracket horizontally instead of vertically (so the plastic was impacting the rear part of the socket), so I changed it around, and...there's about a 2mm "gap" between the bottom of the standoff screw and the board itself. Jesus they still do that? I have an old h60 where it wiggles and got hard nylon washers to take up slack.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 21:10
|
|
|
They all do that, the gap disappears when you tighten the heatsink down. You don't need washers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 21:18
|
|
|
these dropping memory prices is making me itch to buy one of the 32GB DDR4-3600 CL17 b-die kits I was eyeing when I originally specced out this system over a year ago (currently on 16GB DDR4-3200). it used to be over 550€ in mid-2018, now it's on sale for 350€. I really don't need it tho, it's just to play with memory overclocking and I'll get bored with that pretty quickly 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 00:13
|
|
|
My current specs: Intel Core i5-4690 3.50GHz ASRock H97M Pro4 LGA 1150 8gb (2x4) DDR3 1600 ASUS GeForce GTX 970 STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5 What would be worthwhile upgrades here? I'm thinking adding another 2x4GB RAM and a video card of some sort (Nvidia only please)? I game at 1080p.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 00:41
|
|
|
Basticle posted:My current specs: 1080p 60Hz? I'd actually go for CPU (and motherboard and RAM) first in that case, since recent games have started making 6- and 8-core CPU's very good to have even in a gaming PC. A 970 should still do 1080/60 even in recent games without turning the quality down too much, but you can actually get bottlenecked on the CPU now (and on CPU multi-core performance at that, which used to be unheard of). Don't upgrade the RAM alone, it's a waste of money on a platform that old and 8GB shouldn't be a bottleneck in most scenarios. Also you're going to get told to buy AMD for a CPU upgrade, just so you know, because that's the correct thing to do at the moment unless you're blowing stupid amounts of money. AMD GPU's are not really competitive at the moment though so nothing to worry about there. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Apr 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 00:46
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:these dropping memory prices is making me itch to buy one of the 32GB DDR4-3600 CL17 b-die kits I was eyeing when I originally specced out this system over a year ago (currently on 16GB DDR4-3200). it used to be over 550€ in mid-2018, now it's on sale for 350€. I really don't need it tho, it's just to play with memory overclocking and I'll get bored with that pretty quickly Nearest I can see, they're still - even in the US - $400+ for the 2x16 sets. In ~2 years we'll have DDR5 at launch speeds that'll exceed all but the highest-of-high-end DDR4 - buying high-speed DDR4 now's a bit like buying premium gas before they refill the station's tank.  Basticle posted:My current specs: Echoing Fluff's sentiment that your best upgrade would be going with a Ryzen 5 2600 and an MSI Tomahawk board. Socket AM4 is going to be used for not only Ryzen 2 (which is due in June), but evidently Ryzen 3 and perhaps even Ryzen 3+ or 4. Also, AMD has their Navi GPU coming out at the same time in June, and it's been *said* to have "1080 performance at 1060 prices." BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Apr 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 00:56
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Nearest I can see, they're still - even in the US - $400+ for the 2x16 sets. ffffff don't tempt me like that, computer parts are never cheaper in europe this is a 4x8GB set though (G.Skill, F4-3600C17Q-32GVK) but that is actually what I want because I have a t-topology board e: your edit is better, yes. this is a dumb idea and would be a dumb buy regardless of how much of a sale it's on
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 00:58
|
|
|
My motherboard has two different power connectors labeled CPU, one is four pins and one is eight. My power supply has a single connector+cable labeled CPU which is eight pins, and on the motherboard side of the cable you can split the two halves into two 4-pin connectors if you want. I'm supposed to just plug it into the 8-pin connector in the motherboard right? The manuals for the motherboard and the power don't explain this  e: this is a ryzen 2600X CPU and that MSI B450 motherboard that Stickman keeps recommending
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 01:03
|
|
|
Lutha Mahtin posted:My motherboard has two different power connectors labeled CPU, one is four pins and one is eight. My power supply has a single connector+cable labeled CPU which is eight pins, and on the motherboard side of the cable you can split the two halves into two 4-pin connectors if you want. I'm supposed to just plug it into the 8-pin connector in the motherboard right? The manuals for the motherboard and the power don't explain this
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 01:07
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:your edit is better, yes. this is a dumb idea and would be a dumb buy regardless of how much of a sale it's on To say nothing of the long-standing advice I offer people who are thinking of "buying the best" that you can't trust that G.Skill/Corsair/etc. will retain new-in-box stock of the B-Die/heavily-binned stuff, even *with* a lifetime warranty.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 01:17
|
|
|
Pretty soon we'll be selling my wife's old computer to a family friend who only needs it for web surfing, and we'll be moving her 970 into my old comp and moving my 1070 into my new computer. Is now a decent time for a middle budget computer (600-800) or should I wait until closer to zen2. Mostly gaming and sometimes streaming, but I just use NVENC for that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 02:27
|
|
|
ethanol posted:They all do that, the gap disappears when you tighten the heatsink down. You don't need washers. Mine didn’t when I had it tightened down.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 03:37
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:
It won't hurt anything or waste a bunch of extra power if I do the 8-pin though, right? I'm installing Windows now and that seems to be going fine, and the BIOS had no complaints that I saw.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 04:23
|
|
|
SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:Pretty soon we'll be selling my wife's old computer to a family friend who only needs it for web surfing, and we'll be moving her 970 into my old comp and moving my 1070 into my new computer. Is now a decent time for a middle budget computer (600-800) or should I wait until closer to zen2. Mostly gaming and sometimes streaming, but I just use NVENC for that. It's a great time, but no one is really sure what Zen2 is bringing to the table, so there's every chance in the world you could get that much more if you wait. And also every chance that the gains aren't going to matter for your use case.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 04:26
|
|
|
Lutha Mahtin posted:It won't hurt anything or waste a bunch of extra power if I do the 8-pin though, right? I'm installing Windows now and that seems to be going fine, and the BIOS had no complaints that I saw. No, it won't hurt anything. If you can, it's never a bad idea simply because of redundancy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 04:26
|
|
|
I want to use some addressable 5v rgb led strips in my case. My mobo isnt quite modern enough for that connector and only has the non addressable 12v rgb header. Is there a controller that connects to the 2.0 header on my mobo for a software solution that accepts the standard 5v rbg connection and not some proprietary one? I think this is what I want but im not sure. https://store.asus.com/us/item/201809AM200000001/A45974-ASUS-ROG-Aura-Terminal-Addressable-RGB-Controller
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 09:50
|
|
|
I'm looking to buy a bulk storage hard drive, primarily for a Plex server and as a backup for important documents. I see 4 TB drives from Western Digital (Blue) and Seagate for the same price. The Seagate drive has 256 MB of cache while the WD drive has 64 MB. How much does cache actually matter for my use case? Is the suggestion in the OP that Seagate may be less reliable than WD still true? Is it worth paying extra for WD Red over Blue if there is never more than one concurrent user connecting to the Plex server and it's only used for a couple hours a day?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 14:22
|
|
|
Shofixti posted:I'm looking to buy a bulk storage hard drive, primarily for a Plex server and as a backup for important documents. I see 4 TB drives from Western Digital (Blue) and Seagate for the same price. The Seagate drive has 256 MB of cache while the WD drive has 64 MB. Unless you are using 10+ gigabit LAN that is insanely latency optimized, the cache is irrelevant and your network will bottleneck way before the cache comes in to play. As for reliability, there are some well known Seagate duds out there (like the ST3000DM001 that I had which begin to reallocate sectors like clockwork a month after its warranty expired). And I think there have been a couple others in the last decade where a particular model was known to fail frequently. Other than that I've seen the same frequency of WD and Seagate (and other brand) drives fail. The general rule of hard drives is the more of them you keep on hand and spinning, the more failures you will have to deal with. Basically if you only have a single hard disk spinning in the house, you could easily go a decade without experiencing a failure. But if you have 30 disks spinning in the house, you will probably have to replace one every couple of months. So ultimately the best advice I can give is: Hard drives fail, keep backups.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 14:57
|
|
|
Shofixti posted:I'm looking to buy a bulk storage hard drive, primarily for a Plex server and as a backup for important documents. I see 4 TB drives from Western Digital (Blue) and Seagate for the same price. The Seagate drive has 256 MB of cache while the WD drive has 64 MB. I think I remember reading the only difference between a WD red and blue is that the firmware does something on the red for ?power savings. Maybe parking the head or something. I use a 2tb WD red in my system as a media storage drive and it works well although 'feels' slow in windows explorer at times. It never has any issue with playback, I think both the red and blue are around 120mb/s sequential write/read speed.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 15:48
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I think I remember reading the only difference between a WD red and blue is that the firmware does something on the red for ?power savings. Maybe parking the head or something. I use a 2tb WD red in my system as a media storage drive and it works well although 'feels' slow in windows explorer at times. It never has any issue with playback, I think both the red and blue are around 120mb/s sequential write/read speed. FWIW I have three Seagate iron wolf pro drives (2x 4TB, 1x 6 TB) and they hover around 210 MB/sec sequential when copying to or from a SSD (or even each other), but they are all only about half full at the moment so I couldn't tell you the lower end of their performance. Any WD drive of a similar generation and RPM should perform about the same (sequential speed is mostly about areal density and RPM). Still, gigabit LAN tops off at around 112 MB/sec under perfect conditions so almost any modern drive (even 5400 RPM) would get the job done. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Apr 6, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 17:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 19:39 |
|
|
Thanks all. I had a feeling the cache difference would be irrelevant. I've pretty well exclusively used WD Blues over the years and, without a compelling reason to change that, I'll just go with what has worked.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 17:51
|
|