|
Didn't think this warranted a whole thread anywhere, but I'm having monitor display issues. I have access to an LG screen with thunderbolt 3 only hookups. I've bought a USB-C > HDMI adapter to try connecting the monitor with my PC but it won't turn on after connecting. I've checked and this is the type of screen that just turns on after a connection is made, so I'm wondering if it just isn't compatible for whatever reason? The only thread I could find was a few years old and suggested that might be the problem.
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 01:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:15 |
|
|
Kingtheninja posted:Didn't think this warranted a whole thread anywhere, but I'm having monitor display issues. I have access to an LG screen with thunderbolt 3 only hookups. I've bought a USB-C > HDMI adapter to try connecting the monitor with my PC but it won't turn on after connecting. I've checked and this is the type of screen that just turns on after a connection is made, so I'm wondering if it just isn't compatible for whatever reason? The only thread I could find was a few years old and suggested that might be the problem.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 02:30
|
|
|
So some of you that read the laptop thread may recall the USB C hub I got a few weeks ago or whatever. It works great for my intended use- Plugging my phone or laptop(s) into all the peripherals without much hassle, etc. Is there any way I could get it to work for the KB/M functionality on an old OptiPlex? Or maybe even the video as well somehow? The OptiPlex has a low pro 1050ti in it (theres no USB C in it though) Would some sort of USB C to USB A adapter thing work? (E: obviously not for video, which is fine) Tbh its no real big deal if what I want to do doesnt work, I just wonder if anybody else has tried this. The "monitor" (TV) im using doesn't have DP ports if that matters https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FX2LW35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the one I have btw, and its pretty great so far Worf fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Apr 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 17:45
|
|
|
Llamadeus posted:Also watch your frequencies and voltages to make sure the motherboard isn't doing some auto-overclocking boost enhancement nonsense. So just to follow up from the last page, this ended up being the issue with the random freezes I thought we tied to CPU temp. Not that there was auto-overclocking boost enhancement nonsense, but the power supply common current idle settings in the BIOS were dropping the core voltage to .35v as a power saving measure, which was not enough to keep the system stable. Turning that manually to .80v fixed the issue.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2019 21:49
|
|
|
I have a WD green I use as a storage drive, and I have Windows set to turn it off after 5 minutes. It randomly spins up, and I don't know why. I'd rather it stay powered off until I need to get in
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 00:38
|
|
|
In my experience windows and Linux both tend to handle some external drives rather shittily Constantly needing to reset them and poo poo 
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 00:52
|
|
|
Statutory Ape posted:In my experience windows and Linux both tend to handle some external drives rather shittily It's internal
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 00:57
|
|
|
Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I have a WD green I use as a storage drive, and I have Windows set to turn it off after 5 minutes. It randomly spins up, and I don't know why. I'd rather it stay powered off until I need to get in Unfortunately the answer is to disable windows update, disable the windows store, and or a bunch of other bullshit things Windows does for no good reason, then pray nothing else polls the system for disk space. Windows update always stores its temporary files in the largest drive or the drive with the most free space on the system, which the overwhelming majority of the time is a mechanical hard drive. That and the microsoft store are the main suspects when drives spin up even when you aren't doing anything. Otherwise windows tends to spin up drives if you load any program that polls the storage on the system, and if you have any system monitoring utilities running that poll for SMART status/info from the drives it will cause them to spin up as well (either disable their SMART monitors, or set the interval for their disk check to 1440 minutes so it only does it once a day).
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 02:35
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:Unfortunately the answer is to disable windows update, disable the windows store, and or a bunch of other bullshit things Windows does for no good reason, then pray nothing else polls the system for disk space. Windows update always stores its temporary files in the largest drive or the drive with the most free space on the system, which the overwhelming majority of the time is a mechanical hard drive. That and the microsoft store are the main suspects when drives spin up even when you aren't doing anything. Otherwise windows tends to spin up drives if you load any program that polls the storage on the system, and if you have any system monitoring utilities running that poll for SMART status/info from the drives it will cause them to spin up as well (either disable their SMART monitors, or set the interval for their disk check to 1440 minutes so it only does it once a day). Well drat. I'll probably just yank it and keep it in a dock
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 02:40
|
|
|
Alternatively, don't set it to spin down at all. Drives have great endurance as far as continuously spinning goes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 02:50
|
|
|
LRADIKAL posted:Alternatively, don't set it to spin down at all. Drives have great endurance as far as continuously spinning goes. I'm not worried about endurance. I have no fans spinning at idle and it annoys me when the drive starts. Petty, I know
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 05:24
|
|
|
Right! It's real annoying when they spin up! Can you hear them above white noise while they're spinning but idle?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 09:34
|
|
|
LRADIKAL posted:Alternatively, don't set it to spin down at all. Drives have great endurance as far as continuously spinning goes. It's a green, it was born to repeatedly park
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 12:38
|
|
|
Kingtheninja posted:Didn't think this warranted a whole thread anywhere, but I'm having monitor display issues. I have access to an LG screen with thunderbolt 3 only hookups. I've bought a USB-C > HDMI adapter to try connecting the monitor with my PC but it won't turn on after connecting. I've checked and this is the type of screen that just turns on after a connection is made, so I'm wondering if it just isn't compatible for whatever reason? The only thread I could find was a few years old and suggested that might be the problem. What are the models of the LG monitor and the USB-C adapter? How I understood your post is, you have a monitor with only USB-C connectors and you are using the adapter to connect it to the HDMI on your computer. I wouldn't expect that to work, I think those adapters are meant for connecting a computer with USB-C to a HDMI monitor and they will not work the other direction.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 16:06
|
|
|
Oddball HW question: Is there an affordable hardware (GPS-based) NTP server out there other than NetBurner ($320 w/ antenna)? I don't need crazy accuracy, but I'd like to have a dedicated piece of hardware (not a Windows Time service on a PC) that can keep the time updated and running locally. I've looked a bunch of hardware options, but the top hit for "inexpensive NTP server" is $800. Not really what I had in mind. Yes, I could run one on a Pi, but I've already got enough SBCs to deal with, and I'm hoping there's a ~$100 option out there. ::edit:: added GPS-based requirement sharkytm fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Apr 5, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 22:00
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Oddball HW question: Is there an affordable hardware NTP server out there other than NetBurner ($320 w/ antenna)? I don't need crazy accuracy, but I'd like to have a dedicated piece of hardware (not a Windows Time service on a PC) that can keep the time updated and running locally. I've looked a bunch of hardware options, but the top hit for "inexpensive NTP server" is $800. Not really what I had in mind. Yes, I could run one on a Pi, but I've already got enough SBCs to deal with, and I'm hoping there's a ~$100 option out there. The Fritzbox routers by AVM have an NTP server built in. They're good, but expensive as well and targeted at the European market. Lambert fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Apr 5, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 22:12
|
|
|
Lambert posted:The Fritzbox routers by AVM have an NTP server built in. They're good, but expensive as well and targeted at the European market. Interesting. Sadly, I'm in the US, and it doesn't look like they have much in the way of US distribution. The FritzBox 4040 is the cheapest I see, at around $150. Also, it's still relying on internet-based timeservers. I'm looking for something that's GPS-based, sorry I didn't mention that. If it was cheaper, it'd be an OK option, but that's half the cost of the Netburner.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 22:43
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Oddball HW question: Is there an affordable hardware (GPS-based) NTP server out there other than NetBurner ($320 w/ antenna)? I don't need crazy accuracy, but I'd like to have a dedicated piece of hardware (not a Windows Time service on a PC) that can keep the time updated and running locally. I've looked a bunch of hardware options, but the top hit for "inexpensive NTP server" is $800. Not really what I had in mind. Yes, I could run one on a Pi, but I've already got enough SBCs to deal with, and I'm hoping there's a ~$100 option out there. The first google result for gps ntp server is this https://timemachinescorp.com/product/gps-time-server-tm1000a/ which seems to be a $300 one. Amazon appears to have them for the same price. At least it's a bit cheaper than what you found so far? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 23:00
|
|
|
Just basing this off of Netgate forums hits from a Google search but apparently pfSense can do NTP with GPS.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2019 23:08
|
|
|
Geemer posted:The first google result for gps ntp server is this https://timemachinescorp.com/product/gps-time-server-tm1000a/ which seems to be a $300 one. Amazon appears to have them for the same price. It's a little cheaper than the netburner. Thanks, it's the best price yet. Geoj posted:Just basing this off of Netgate forums hits from a Google search but apparently pfSense can do NTP with GPS. Hmm, I'll look into this. I run ubiquiti gear normally. It'd need a hardware serial port and an external GPS, which is venturing into Pi-like territory. At least the Pi has gpio-based GPS and 1PPS detection hardware. I get the feeling that the only thing in the price range I'm looking for is going to be a Pi. Maybe it'll run a pi-hole and NTP server together... I've got two extra Pis right now. And I could wire it to a display too. Ffffff, here we go again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 01:36
|
|
|
Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I have a WD green I use as a storage drive, and I have Windows set to turn it off after 5 minutes. It randomly spins up, and I don't know why. I'd rather it stay powered off until I need to get in Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I'm not worried about endurance. I have no fans spinning at idle and it annoys me when the drive starts. Petty, I know You might consider just raising the timeout a bit in that case. Very short timeouts are used for laptops and the drive spins up and down a lot, just from stuff like indexing and prefetch. If you set it to 15 or 20 it won't sleep until all that is really finished. Also the thing Indiana_Krom said about windows update storing temporary files on the biggest drive in the system seems like bullshit to me. My OS drive has been smaller than other drives for the whole time I've had 10 and I've never seen anything put elsewhere. Update puts everything in C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution by default.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 03:13
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Also the thing Indiana_Krom said about windows update storing temporary files on the biggest drive in the system seems like bullshit to me. My OS drive has been smaller than other drives for the whole time I've had 10 and I've never seen anything put elsewhere. Update puts everything in C:\Windows\SoftwareDistribution by default. I'd like to back them up on it, but not in the way you think. Windows Update seems to like to extract all the temporary files it needs to the largest volume, while also still happily devouring a tiny volume by putting a lot of junk in SoftwareDistribution. At least the stuff in SoftwareDistribution can be cleared out in disk cleanup. If Windows Update fucks up or freezes, it can leave folders of temporary files with annoying-to-deal-with permissions on your larger drives.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 03:43
|
|
|
I've got a 32GB eeepc sorta thing and windows 10 has not had enough space to store the update until I plugged a USB HD into it and it used that space explicitly.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 10:32
|
|
|
So my Threadripper recently started exhibiting some weird behavior of high temps at almost no load. I have my 1950x over clocked to 3.9GHz and run it with an Enermax LiqTech 2.140mm AIO cooler. Physically touching the tubing coming from the block I do have a hot side and a cold side so the pump is functioning. I haven't moved it or touched anything inside for over a month now. It only started showing these symptoms within the past few days. The system is currently drawing between 350w and 410w according to my UPS where as I believe I should be idling around 90-100 watts and the highest load I've ever had myself only used like 250-300w max. I'm currently scanning for viruses, but so far the only thing that's been found by Malwarebytes is a single PUP registry. My CPU is running at 4% usage and an idle temp of 68-72C. I wouldn't think my thermal paste would give out after less than a year.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 07:04
|
|
|
I would try booting a Linux live system to see if the problem persists. If it doesn’t then you know it is software related. Could be malware that masks its own CPU/GPU usage.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 07:22
|
|
|
SlayVus posted:So my Threadripper recently started exhibiting some weird behavior of high temps at almost no load. I have my 1950x over clocked to 3.9GHz and run it with an Enermax LiqTech 2.140mm AIO cooler. Physically touching the tubing coming from the block I do have a hot side and a cold side so the pump is functioning. I haven't moved it or touched anything inside for over a month now. It only started showing these symptoms within the past few days. The system is currently drawing between 350w and 410w according to my UPS where as I believe I should be idling around 90-100 watts and the highest load I've ever had myself only used like 250-300w max. You should never have a hot and a cold side of a water cooler, the coolant should be flowing through the loop quickly enough that the difference between the in and out sides should be indistinguishable (like it should be a fraction of a degree at most). The amount of coolant inside is so small that even a slow pump should circulate the entire volume in less than a minute, having a side that is noticeably warmer is a huge alarm to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 12:43
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:You should never have a hot and a cold side of a water cooler, the coolant should be flowing through the loop quickly enough that the difference between the in and out sides should be indistinguishable (like it should be a fraction of a degree at most). The amount of coolant inside is so small that even a slow pump should circulate the entire volume in less than a minute, having a side that is noticeably warmer is a huge alarm to me. I redid my thermal paste and saw no improvement. Then I undid my overclock, reset the bios to factory defaults, then went in and undervolted the CPU by about .095-0.105v(Stock default is ~1.305). In Windows I'm idling pretty high at 45-48c now. I'm still also using a lot of power, around 260w. So I think my problem is two fools in that something may be wrong with my cooler and that I need to go in and figure out why my CPU isn't power state changing. Because even in the BIOS it'll idle at 45c.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 17:40
|
|
|
Possible your pump is seized up, water should never be in the block long enough to get hot. Check RPMs and make sure it isn't set to some super slow PWM setting.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 18:33
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:Possible your pump is seized up, water should never be in the block long enough to get hot. Check RPMs and make sure it isn't set to some super slow PWM setting. The motherboard sensor says that the pump is running at 2.8-2.9k RPM. Its a 3 pin fan header and I have it plugged into the dedicated Water Pump 4-pin header on my mobo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 18:57
|
|
|
Gotta be a clog then, right?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 20:39
|
|
|
Saukkis posted:What are the models of the LG monitor and the USB-C adapter? How I understood your post is, you have a monitor with only USB-C connectors and you are using the adapter to connect it to the HDMI on your computer. I wouldn't expect that to work, I think those adapters are meant for connecting a computer with USB-C to a HDMI monitor and they will not work the other direction. Yeah I think you're right, the more I've looked into the more I see it regarding what you said. It's an LG 27md5ka, it thunderbolt 3 plug in for macs. Because it's such a gorgeous monitor I wanted to get it hooked up to my non Mac laptop for gaming but doesnt look like it'll work. The adapter itself is just a jsaux thing I got off Amazon. But yeah most of the ones I see illustrate hdmi on the monitor side going to USB C on the computer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 01:53
|
|
|
Kingtheninja posted:LG 27md5ka That model seems to have a production error, they put the display in the wrong way around.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2019 11:39
|
|
|
Posting this here since I'm sure this is some sort of hardware issue, I just can't sort out which device is giving me the problems. VIZIO SB3621n-F8M 36" 2.1 Channel Sound Bar and TCL 43S305 43-Inch 1080p Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) I've tried unsuccessfully for three days to get my new soundbar to pair with my tv, my laptop, or anything. Ive followed the manufacturer's instructions, and called tech support and got no help whatsoever. Please, someone help me understand what's going on here. I store and play movies on my laptop, and I run an HDMI cable from my laptop to my TV to watch them on the tv. I have the soundbar connected to the TV via optical audio cable. When I put the TV into pairing mode, it searches but does not find or pair with the soundbar. I tried pairing the soundbar to my laptop as well. My laptop won't find the soundbar when they're both pairing either. I tried pairing the soundbar with my phone just to see if it would pair with anything - it did not. I removed all the devices previously paired on my laptop (and the tv) just to start with a clean slate. Still, the soundbar won't pair or output sound with any device. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong here? It's so frustrating to have a brand new $200 soundbar I saved for, and I can't get the drat thing to work. Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Apr 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 02:16
|
|
|
You don't need to pair over a toslink cable. Just make sure your TV is outputting sound over spdif/optical. Pairing is for Bluetooth, generally. Have you tried rca/headphone between the two devices?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 02:18
|
|
|
LRADIKAL posted:You don't need to pair over a toslink cable. Just make sure your TV is outputting sound over spdif/optical. Pairing is for Bluetooth, generally. I did make sure to output sound from the TV to the soundbar through the TV's audio settings by setting it to optical audio output. This didn't work, still no sound. All the hardware is functional, but the TV won't output even though the optical cable is attached. No, I haven't tried the RCA cables between the two devices. I'll give that a shot. Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Apr 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 02:56
|
|
|
I got it sorted out! Thank the good lord baby jesus that was so frustrating. There were about 4 different optical dolby sound outputs you could choose for the TV's output, and I guess I just chose the wrong one until I tried them all and found one that worked.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 03:11
|
|
|
I had a 1tb hdd in my laptop fail and it no longer boots windows at all. I did get into a command prompt in recovery but windows was reading from the x: and basically only showed a windows folder that was a few mb. What techniques should I look at to recover what may be on it? Haven't hooked it up to a pc yet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 12:51
|
|
|
Gpartd boot disk, or image it with macrium... I try not to spend any time rescuing data. Unless money is super tight, using backblaze or whatever your preferred service is, I'd much better
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2019 03:09
|
|
|
ascii32 posted:I had a 1tb hdd in my laptop fail and it no longer boots windows at all. I did get into a command prompt in recovery but windows was reading from the x: and basically only showed a windows folder that was a few mb. The bolded is likely a RAMdisk created during the recovery process. Your best bet for retrieving any data off the HDD, if at all possible, is going to be to remove it and hook it up to another PC (i.e. within a USB enclosure.) The best case scenario is that perhaps the drive is going bad and some critical files were corrupted so it can't boot Windows anymore, but you can still access some other data. The worst case is that the drive has failed mechanically and everything is lost. (Professional data recovery services are very expensive and most likely not worth it in this case.) In the future, always use an SSD for your boot drives, and have backups of all your important data.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2019 06:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:15 |
|
|
This is sort of a stupid question to ask, since I've been adding and removing CPU's from motherboards for..... probably two decades. What cleaning fluid do y'all use to clean off the CPU upper surface (IHS) and the other end that's on the cooler pad? Over the years I've used:
The past few years I've settled on the 2nd one on my list: regular nail varnish remover from the supermarket. It'll be like a £2 for a 200ml bottle and be branded Tesco, Boots or whatever and last me for months. It's not too late to question my technique on this one. What do other people use?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 23:42
|
|
