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WattsvilleBlues posted:Nothing in my area apparently. I live in Northern Ireland so looks like I'm SOOL. AAISP FTTP.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 06:26 |
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# ? May 19, 2024 22:37 |
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Steakandchips posted:AAISP FTTP. They're offering me the same speed as I currently get, with a download limit of 200GB per month, costing £20 more per month. Not a great proposition.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 10:16 |
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160mbps via AAISP is actually really good, if you can get their FTTP. But if you can only get their 76mbps dsl, then thats not worth switching for. Also, consider leaving Northern Ireland for the mainland.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 11:28 |
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Steakandchips posted:160mbps via AAISP is actually really good, if you can get their FTTP. I'd love 160Mbps but they're not giving me zilch faster than I have now, which is about 38 down. My parents' street got a Virgin Media connection installed a few weeks ago so they're now able to order, getting up to 240Mbps down, from 38 currently. Jesus wept. WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Apr 1, 2019 |
# ? Apr 1, 2019 11:42 |
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UK Internet has sat still for the past decade or so, it’s good! Ethernet services are really competitive though, so it’s good if you’re a business.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 11:50 |
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Does anyone have AT&T's Gigabit Fiber? IS it worth it? I'm highly skeptical of AT&T, and we've got non-synchronous gigabit through Xfinity, but I really want better upload speeds.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 14:01 |
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CommieGIR posted:Does anyone have AT&T's Gigabit Fiber? IS it worth it? I'm highly skeptical of AT&T, and we've got non-synchronous gigabit through Xfinity, but I really want better upload speeds. I had AT&T gigabit for about 4 years at my old house. It was rock solid. 940/940 no problem and zero service outages. Very few providers could max out the connection. The only downside was you have to use their gateway, or work around it. I never had a problem with it though (note: I don't torrent or play online games that are heavy on the NAT table), but I didn't use the onboard wifi, I had issues with it crapping out with more than 10 devices online or so. I had U-Verse TV at the time as well, so no data caps. Not sure if they're still doing data caps or not, but they used to have a 1TB a month cap, and then hit you with the overages unless you paid for unlimited or bundled TV service. Also I'm not sure if they do that shady thing where you agree to let them inject ads in your traffic and monitor it for a discount on the service price every month or not. The ISP at my new place offers gigabit fiber, but I only have a 500/250 plan now. Gigabit is another 50 bucks a month and I notice zero difference in real world usage between 500mbit and gigabit downstream. It's a small regional ISP though, so they just gave me an Ethernet hand off from the ONT which is pretty cool.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 18:26 |
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skipdogg posted:..... It's a small regional ISP though, so they just gave me an Ethernet hand off from the ONT which is pretty cool... That's how mine is as well.. Direct Ethernet handoff, get your own router.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 18:39 |
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CommieGIR posted:Does anyone have AT&T's Gigabit Fiber? IS it worth it? I'm highly skeptical of AT&T, and we've got non-synchronous gigabit through Xfinity, but I really want better upload speeds. Had it for a few years, very pleased. You do have to use their gateway but honestly I haven't really run into many issues regarding that as I just feed that into the WAN side of my router. My only gaming is done on PC so I haven't had problems with NAT or the like, consoles tend to be more sensitive though so if that's a factor you might want to get some more real world feedback. Also, if you get their TV service then those boxes have to terminate on their gateway, if you try running them behind your own router it'll break their multicast setup.
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# ? Apr 1, 2019 19:13 |
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Following on from the chat on the previous page about the best equipment for a 1Gbps connection , my Netgear R7800 needs rebooting every several days to function (all ethernet connections to it die; firmware already updated, rolled back, reset, etc.). I am otherwise happy with its performance (940/940 reliably on speed tests) but want something that just works after being set up. Assuming Ubiquiti is the way to go, which specific pieces of hardware should I be looking at? Budget is probably about $250 and I live in a two bed so I don't need massive range. My only requirement is having enough ports for the WAN connection and at least four devices (not including a separate AP, if that is the best way to do it).
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 01:14 |
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Running into some trouble getting a Unifi Cloud Key up and running. Somehow managed to successfully get a Pace 5268AC gateway into bridge mode at my in-laws. Current set up is now 5268AC gateway -> USG -> Unifi 8-60W + AC Pro + Cloud Key Was able to get everything adopted and provisioned except for the Cloud Key. It appears the hardware reset is broken on my unit, but googled how to SSH into it and reset settings. Now I see the Cloud Key in my Unifi Dash, but am unable to get it adopted anywhere. It also now shows in the Device Discovery Tool with status Pending, and when I go to unifi.ubnt.com and sign into my cloud account, I now see the device. When I click ADOPT it takes me to the start of the entire network setup process (which I already went through to get the network + SSID, etc set up). Is the actual process to go through this entire setup again, but now it's hosted on the cloud key vs. the Unifi desktop controller?
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 02:22 |
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ScooterMcTiny posted:Is the actual process to go through this entire setup again, but now it's hosted on the cloud key vs. the Unifi desktop controller? You can migrate your UniFi settings from one controller to another. On your Desktop controller, go to Settings > Controller > Controller Hostname/IP and put in your cloud key IP address (this is assuming you've already gotten the cloud key kind of set up already) and check the "Override Inform Host..." box under that. Apply the changes - your devices will show up as offline now because they're trying to connect to the new controller IP now. You then need to export the config that you have on your desktop controller (Settings > Maintenance > Backup > Download Backup) and import it to your Cloud Key (Settings > Maintenance > Restore, or if you haven't set up the controller yet you can choose to Recover from the initial setup). This will also carry over all the devices that you've previously adopted.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 03:06 |
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Anyone have some good links for setting up a USG and access point? They came in today and I hooked everything up real quick but the unifi controller wasn't seeing anything. I was getting internet though. Didn't have much time to play with it before bed, I'll mess with it some more in the morning.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 06:43 |
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We own three adjacent apartments separated by concrete, but we aren't allowed to run wires between them. We do function as one household, so we'd much rather have everything on one network and also not pay for three separate internet connections. Is a mesh setup the best option for full coverage, and would it still be fast enough to play, say, Overwatch from the rooms on the far ends? What's the optimal setup that minimizes the number of nodes/satellites/whatever that I'd have to purchase? This is a simplified diagram of where things are. The room dividers are wooden walls, and each unit is roughly 80-90 sq m.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 14:18 |
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looks like a job for a modern powerline networking kit if the wiring installation allows for it
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 14:27 |
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Drill the concrete anyway. Or go outside the apartment and back in. Your cable company wired the blocks somehow, there's going to be a route that keeps the fire regulations people happy.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 14:27 |
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eames posted:looks like a job for a modern powerline networking kit if the wiring installation allows for it If the three apartments are on different power circuits powerline won't work tho. If the power/coax/FTA conduits are shared inbetween the three apartments you could pull fiber optic in the power conduits and still be code-compliant. It's a tad more expensive tho.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 14:32 |
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Thanks Ants posted:Drill the concrete anyway. Or go outside the apartment and back in. Yeah we're definitely gonna try our hardest to get a physical connection in if we can, but we'll have to figure out how to charm some sort of compromise out of the engineering team. I'm not entirely sure how feasible wiring it through the outside is, as we're on the ninth floor; they definitely wouldn't put up with wires running through the hallway, and the balconies have pillars blocking the apartments' lines of sight to each other. I do want to know if wireless is a feasible backup plan if we don't make any headway with them. SlowBloke posted:If the three apartments are on different power circuits powerline won't work tho. If the power/coax/FTA conduits are shared inbetween the three apartments you could pull fiber optic in the power conduits and still be code-compliant. It's a tad more expensive tho. No idea how to check this but each unit has its own circuit breaker so I'm inclined to think powerline won't work. Argue fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Apr 2, 2019 |
# ? Apr 2, 2019 14:42 |
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If you have balconies then you could do a point-to-point wireless link between the apartments. Very small antennas and low output power at those sorts of distances as well. Edit: I can't read, sorry. No LOS. Does the corridor have a false ceiling or is it just concrete slab? Another thing to check would be if your co-ax outlets are in the same position in each apartment - e.g. whether they're back-to-back and there's already a hole through the wall behind the plates. Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Apr 2, 2019 |
# ? Apr 2, 2019 14:51 |
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Thanks Ants posted:Another thing to check would be if your co-ax outlets are in the same position in each apartment - e.g. whether they're back-to-back and there's already a hole through the wall behind the plates. That's a good thought; I'm not there every day but the construction workers are still going to be available for us until we move in next month, so I'll definitely ask them to look into that.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 15:17 |
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Argue posted:I do want to know if wireless is a feasible backup plan if we don't make any headway with them. It might be feasible it might not. It's always hard to tell with wireless because it depends a lot on the environment. It's hard to know without seeing a picture, but you might be able to do a pretty nondescript bracket leaning some wireless point-to-point equipment out over the balcony railings and pointing at each other. Ubiquiti makes some nice small devices for this.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 15:44 |
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Actuarial Fables posted:You can migrate your UniFi settings from one controller to another. On your Desktop controller, go to Settings > Controller > Controller Hostname/IP and put in your cloud key IP address (this is assuming you've already gotten the cloud key kind of set up already) and check the "Override Inform Host..." box under that. Apply the changes - your devices will show up as offline now because they're trying to connect to the new controller IP now. This worked perfectly - thank you!
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 18:09 |
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ScooterMcTiny posted:
Have you run a speedtest since doing this? Because if you're in DMZplus mode then you're kneecapping your speeds something fierce. At home I just said gently caress it and ran a line from the gateway to the WAN interface of my router and it worked fine despite the fact it's dual NAT.
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 21:00 |
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Got everything set up and working I may have had a chat with support where the resolution was plugging something into the correct port...
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# ? Apr 2, 2019 22:56 |
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H2SO4 posted:Have you run a speedtest since doing this? Because if you're in DMZplus mode then you're kneecapping your speeds something fierce. At home I just said gently caress it and ran a line from the gateway to the WAN interface of my router and it worked fine despite the fact it's dual NAT. Thankfully they just have lovely 18mb DSL so speed hasn’t been an issue but can you clarify what you mean? Didn’t know I actually had another option besides putting the pace into bridge mode then into the USG.
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# ? Apr 3, 2019 00:22 |
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CommieGIR posted:Does anyone have AT&T's Gigabit Fiber? IS it worth it? I'm highly skeptical of AT&T, and we've got non-synchronous gigabit through Xfinity, but I really want better upload speeds. Absolutely worth. I am using the EAP proxy script on my Edgerouter-4 and haven't used the provided gateway device for months. https://github.com/jaysoffian/eap_proxy
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# ? Apr 3, 2019 00:40 |
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Prescription Combs posted:Absolutely worth. I am using the EAP proxy script on my Edgerouter-4 and haven't used the provided gateway device for months. That's exactly the answer I was looking for. Thank you.
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# ? Apr 3, 2019 01:49 |
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Prescription Combs posted:Absolutely worth. I am using the EAP proxy script on my Edgerouter-4 and haven't used the provided gateway device for months. Could I do this with an EdgerouterX? I have a 5268 with an Airties AP and they both suck. I tried using an Orbi system with the 5268 but had the well known DMZ issue so I gave up. I’m not scared of a command line. I was thinking a centrally located AP and an EdgerouterX should be all I need.
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# ? Apr 3, 2019 04:02 |
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TheWevel posted:Could I do this with an EdgerouterX? Based on the commands he's using, it should work just fine with any of the Edgerouter product just fine.
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# ? Apr 3, 2019 04:15 |
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TheWevel posted:Could I do this with an EdgerouterX? It should work on your ER-X. Like mentioned, it should work on any Edgerouter or Unifi gateway.
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# ? Apr 3, 2019 04:20 |
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So my father has just discovered the internet of things. He recently bought and installed wifi enabled garage door openers. Two in his house's attached garages and one out in the barn. The problem is that the barn doesn't really get a wifi signal. Here, enjoy this crude drawing illustrating the situation. The wifi has to go through 3 walls, then about 60 feet into the metal barn. Barn is split off at the pole on its own circuit, so no powerline. Point to point seems like overkill, but mesh stuff don't seem like enough. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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# ? Apr 4, 2019 20:21 |
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A pair of NanoStation AC Locos is ~$100. See: my kinda ape posted:Can anyone recommend a good directional antenna so that I can connect my parents' barn to their house so we can put a few cameras in the barn and view the video feed from the house? The barn is about 100 yards from the house and the antennae have to be able to survive outdoors all year in Nebraska (~ -15F to ~ 110F), and it has to have enough bandwidth to send a live video feed (1080p would probably be perfectly adequate). Budget is uhhhh $300 max? Cheaper is better but they understand having to pay for something that works.
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# ? Apr 4, 2019 20:25 |
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Wacky Delly posted:So my father has just discovered the internet of things. He recently bought and installed wifi enabled garage door openers. Two in his house's attached garages and one out in the barn. This thing maybe? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP1...=gateway&sr=8-3
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# ? Apr 4, 2019 20:27 |
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I'm also thinking of switching to At&t Fiber but I'm not sure if the wiring will work out. If I'm not mistaken, At&t runs fiber to an external ONT and then drills a hole somewhere to run ethernet to the residential gateway inside the house. That won't really work for me in this multi-unit dwelling and even if it was possible I don't think the owners would approve it. Am I correct in assuming they can't use the coax inside the apartment? Maybe an option for me is that there's this random panel inside one of the rooms with a single Cat5e cable in it. I'm not really sure what it's purpose is since this place isn't wired for networking. Maybe since it's a new building there's a Cat5e run into each apartment specifically for use with At&t fiber in mind?
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# ? Apr 6, 2019 13:24 |
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It’s possible the cat5e was run with the internet in mind. Sometimes contracts get made where builders put the stuff for one ISP, so maybe that’s live down to where AT&T’s equipment is.
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# ? Apr 6, 2019 13:34 |
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Thanks Ants posted:A pair of NanoStation AC Locos is ~$100. AC locos would work...if he can run a cable from his router to the nanostation. You can't turn off AirMax with the newer Ubiquiti products and connect to a different wifi AP like you used to be able to do with the m2's and m5's. He would need to run a cable from the router to the nanostation, then use the two nanostations as basically a long wireless ethernet cable, then on the other end connect the other nanostation to ANOTHER wireless AP in order for the garage door opener to connect to something. Since it's only 60 ft., If he can't connect a line from the nano to his router, An option might be to buy two UniFi AC Mesh APs ($200 for the pair) and point them at each other. Those shouldn't have an issue with range so I don't think he'd need the $100 UMA-D directional antennas. He might even be able to get away with buying one UAP-AC-M for $90, try putting it on the barn and pointing it at the house, or try putting it on the outside of the house and pointing it at the garage door opener, and seeing if he can get a good enough signal. The garage door opener probably doesn't need much to work. I would try this option first. Or he could also buy two old loco M5's and just use those. The initial setup might be kind of a pain though. CubanMissile fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Apr 6, 2019 |
# ? Apr 6, 2019 14:50 |
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CubanMissile posted:He might even be able to get away with buying one UAP-AC-M for $90, try putting it on the barn and pointing it at the house, or try putting it on the outside of the house and pointing it at the garage door opener, and seeing if he can get a good enough signal. The garage door opener probably doesn't need much to work. I would try this option first. I'll see if he's up to try this. They're scheduled to get fiber in the next year or so. He may just wait until then to do anything.
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# ? Apr 7, 2019 00:53 |
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Posting this here because I think this could either be a networking problem or a hardware problem but im not sure; and desperate! VIZIO SB3621n-F8M 36" 2.1 Channel Sound Bar and TCL 43S305 43-Inch 1080p Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) I've tried unsuccessfully for three days to get my new soundbar to pair with my tv, my laptop, or anything. Ive followed the manufacturer's instructions, and called tech support and got no help whatsoever. Please, someone help me understand what's going on here. I store and play movies on my laptop, and I run an HDMI cable from my laptop to my TV to watch them on the tv. I have the soundbar connected to the TV via optical audio cable. When I put the TV into pairing mode, it searches but does not find or pair with the soundbar. I tried pairing the soundbar to my laptop as well. My laptop won't find the soundbar when they're both pairing either. I tried pairing the soundbar with my phone just to see if it would pair with anything - it did not. I removed all the devices previously paired on my laptop (and the tv) just to start with a clean slate. Still, the soundbar won't pair or output sound with any device. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong here? It's so frustrating to have a brand new $200 soundbar I saved for, and I can't get the drat thing to work. Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Apr 10, 2019 |
# ? Apr 10, 2019 02:16 |
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Neither of those amazon links are working. What are the models?
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# ? Apr 10, 2019 02:24 |
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# ? May 19, 2024 22:37 |
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Dennis McClaren posted:Posting this here because I think this could either be a networking problem or a hardware problem but im not sure; and desperate! Why do you need to pair it at all? The HDMI should be carrying audio from you laptop to the TV, so then it should be up to the TV to play the sound to the correct output (internal or external speakers). If the optical cable is connected to the TV, just make sure the TV is set to play sound to the sound bar, and the sound bar is set to play on the optical input. On my fairly old Samsung set, there is an audio setting called "external speaker" or similar, just make sure your equivalent is set right. Then my sound bar has HDMI1, HDMI2, Optical, and Aux, so I have to set that to "optical". Edit: I agree if the sound bar is brand new then it should be able to pair, but the use case you are describing doesn't require it AFAICT. thiazi fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Apr 10, 2019 |
# ? Apr 10, 2019 02:36 |