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That Countach would look great mounted with the tires to a wall.
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Apr 4, 2019 17:11
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Decided to give amazon.co.jp a shot with a small order. I'm not sure how cost effective Amazon jp is for larger kits, but these two items were less expensive through Amazon than hobbysearch or HLJ (including shipping fees). Shipping is also considerably faster. I placed my order Sunday night, and just got the package delivered by DHL today. Picked up one of these compasses:  And Sweet's 1/144 A5M4: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/sweet-14-d038-mitsubishi-a5m4-type-96--998934
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Apr 5, 2019 00:59
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Just a quick update, bumped up from my usual 1/100 scale stuff to 1/72, so here's a T-34/76 from Pegasus Hobbies: Have to say I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. There's two in the kit so the second one is being done up in a similar manner.
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Apr 6, 2019 16:39
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Some more custom trackwork in copper-clad PCB and nickel silver - it's in roughly N gauge, but more accurate - the rail is 1mm x 0.5mm:
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Apr 6, 2019 22:04
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Jonny Nox posted:When your joke video becomes a serious build quarter-way through I love watching Plasmo's builds. I've definitely learned a lot of tips from him that have helped make my models look much better than the would have otherwise.
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Apr 6, 2019 22:39
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Southern Heel posted:Some more custom trackwork in copper-clad PCB and nickel silver - it's in roughly N gauge, but more accurate - the rail is 1mm x 0.5mm: Only roughly N? Like an n scale train's wheels wouldn't quite be gauged right?
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Apr 6, 2019 22:47
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The 'easy' half of the slip is done - the hard half however, is another matter entirely: Baronjutter posted:Only roughly N? Like an n scale train's wheels wouldn't quite be gauged right? Yeah, it's more delicate - here's an example of an off-the shelf N-gauge wheelset vs 2FS wheels, in the same commercial model (i.e. a bit rubbish, but just for illustration)  From an earlier post, here are some wagons I built from etched kits, that solder wire on the right is 1mm thick! 
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Apr 7, 2019 14:15
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2mm finescale is crazy time and I wish I had the patience to do something like that. Hell, I wish I had the patience and space to build anything railway-shaped! (Hi Peco wagon kits.)
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Apr 7, 2019 15:54
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Anyone have experience with the brand "Sword" models? Are they normally a bit rough? I'm working on a Banshee kit and it has both PE and resin. The thickness and fit of everything seems pretty funky.
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Apr 7, 2019 19:44
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Southern Heel posted:The 'easy' half of the slip is done - the hard half however, is another matter entirely: So is the actual gauge still 9mm, just much more prototypical code rails? Like if you got more realistic wheel flanges on some normal N scale stuff it would run on the tracks? Also yikes at those old "pizza cutters" wheels. I use c55 track on my layout, which is much closer to prototype than the old C80 track from the 60's when N scale first started, in fact it seems pretty standard in the hobby these days. "c55" is some insane imperial unit, but according to my callipers it's about 1.1mm so probably fairly close to your track? Ahh I see, you're doing "2mm scale" which brought me this description: "2mm scale, often 2mm finescale is a specification used for railway modelling, largely for modelling British railway prototypes. It uses a scale of 2 mm on the model to 1-foot on the prototype, which scales out to 1:152. It is, therefore, similar in size to the slightly larger British N scale at 1:148 and the slightly smaller European/American N scale at 1:160; it predates both versions of N scale. The track gauge used to represent prototype standard gauge (4'8½") is 9.42 mm (0.371 in), 0.41 mm wider than commercial 9mm N gauge. Track and wheels are closer to scale replicas than commercial N; the track is only 1 mm high. No ready-to-run models are available in 2mm scale, and although there is some availability of kits and components, some model-making skill is normally required." Yeah, that sounds like quite a commitment. Shame the gauge is a tiny tiny bit different, but it came first so it's more than N scale decided to be different. That half mm difference in track gauge would absolutely be enough to make things derail and not be cross-compatible, but also super easy to re-gauge any commercial N scale stuff. It's such a silly reason why british N scale is actually 1:148 and results in all UK trains being slightly incorrect proportions. 1:152 is a lot close to 1:160 and 1:150 japanese scale which is cool. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 7, 2019 |
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Apr 7, 2019 20:01
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Yooper posted:Anyone have experience with the brand "Sword" models? Are they normally a bit rough? I'm working on a Banshee kit and it has both PE and resin. The thickness and fit of everything seems pretty funky. From reviews I've read, yeah, that seems to be the norm.
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Apr 7, 2019 22:27
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Got a little paint down while the sun was out. Then was terrorised by an absolutely loving massive wasp in the process. 
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Apr 8, 2019 15:50
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Should've painted the wasp.
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Apr 8, 2019 23:42
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 Awooga, awooga. poo poo kit alert.So I bought this crummy AMT Beetle kit for a lark. I wanted something stupid basic that I could tinker around with layering effects on. I expected it to be crap, but not quite this crap.  Which is the part and which is the sprue? Who knows, it's all flash anyway.  This little piddly-gently caress engine simply won't do. Luckily I have like 20 sprues of not used parts from a couple tank kits. Let's see what we can bodge up.  Now that's more like it. a VW with a Maybach engine. I'm tinkering with some sprue to make some straight pipe exhaust, this thing is going to be ludicrous. Since I started, I figured why not go hog wild? I have enough extra bits to make this thing an armored Mad Max style monstrosity, so I think I'll just do that.
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Apr 9, 2019 02:31
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Speaking of lovely kits, this one is turning out fine as long as you pretend the warping is due to the camera lens.
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Apr 9, 2019 03:48
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Installed the first control cable in the Camel. That thin black line. This "only" took half an hour. This is gonna be fun.  Also found this really nice Eiffel Tower kit from Heller as an Amazon Warehouse Deal for 15 Euro. Softest plastic I've ever seen, but looks pretty impressive when built up. Really hard to get things properly aligned though with that soft plastic and a lack of positioning aids. Will be interesting to see how much the Tower is going to be Pisa, rather than Paris. 
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Apr 9, 2019 12:11
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Make sure you use the patented Eiffel Tower color right because otherwise every French in this thread will be annoyed. That is, me 
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Apr 9, 2019 12:25
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I've decided to go with Eiffel's original rusty red brown. The one Paris hated so much they repainted it in bright yellow orange.
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Apr 9, 2019 12:39
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I'm wishing I did something different with the Sword Banshee. None of the sprues are marked and the sprue'd pieces only vaguely resemble the pieces in the instructions. I got to the landing gear and realized there was no loving way any of this poo poo was going to fit. The landing gear doors required a ton of sanding and even now it looks kind of funky. The cockpit glass was a beautiful fit though. The kit, initially seemed great, Eduard PE, nice resin bits, a poo poo ton of decals. Oh well, it'll turn out OK.
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Apr 9, 2019 12:50
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Greyhawk posted:I've decided to go with Eiffel's original rusty red brown. The one Paris hated so much they repainted it in bright yellow orange. I don't know, right now it's anything but bright yellow orange. So it must be the rusty red brown you're talking about.
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Apr 9, 2019 13:16
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Furism posted:I don't know, right now it's anything but bright yellow orange. So it must be the rusty red brown you're talking about. Yeah, that was around 1901. The tower went through 18 or 19 repaintings so far and experienced a number of very different colours before they decided on the patented "Eiffel Tower Brown" in the 1950s. Funny enough there's talk about the next repainting possibly bringing back Eiffels original rusty red brown.
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Apr 9, 2019 13:19
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Oh, right. Then you have my support, you may carry on. 
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Apr 9, 2019 13:28
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Yooper posted:I'm wishing I did something different with the Sword Banshee. None of the sprues are marked and the sprue'd pieces only vaguely resemble the pieces in the instructions. I got to the landing gear and realized there was no loving way any of this poo poo was going to fit. The landing gear doors required a ton of sanding and even now it looks kind of funky. The cockpit glass was a beautiful fit though. The kit, initially seemed great, Eduard PE, nice resin bits, a poo poo ton of decals. Oh well, it'll turn out OK. Make a crashed aircraft diorama.
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Apr 9, 2019 15:08
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I don't remember Tamiya metallics spraying this poorly. Just did a quick session today to paint the engine and a bit of the inside of the fuselage and this XF-16 Flat Aluminium went down terribly.
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Apr 9, 2019 15:46
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I don't remember Tamiya metallics spraying this poorly. Just did a quick session today to paint the engine and a bit of the inside of the fuselage and this XF-16 Flat Aluminium went down terribly. Weather? Humidity? Age of can?
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Apr 9, 2019 15:53
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Pretty warm today with not a lot of humidity. Paint isn't *that* old and it's not like I didn't mix or thin it properly but it still felt like it came out of my airbrush really terribly even with the 0.4 needle. Checked online and other people seem to have this kind of issue too especially with the flat aluminium.
Sultan Tarquin fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 9, 2019 15:56
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Sorry, I thought you were going rattle can. I guess I don't have advice then, only sympathy.
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Apr 9, 2019 16:23
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FrozenVent posted:Make a crashed aircraft diorama.  I wonder...
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Apr 9, 2019 16:34
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  Mostly done with the crazy kitbashed shitkit Beetle. I can't overstress how crap this kit was. It refers to parts it doesn't even come with, the fit is so bad almost nothing fit properly together, but it was cheap and fun for this sort of thing. All the added bits are extra parts from tank sprues. I was going for a Carmageddon sort of thing. I might go back and add a bit more, there's some photo etch that could add some details on here. The main body was fun. I did a solid rust, hairspray, aluminum, SCRUB THAT poo poo, then hairspray and a color coat. Then more scrubbing, it ended up looking pretty good.
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Apr 10, 2019 02:24
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That’s loving awesome.
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Apr 10, 2019 02:27
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Very cool! I love really unique stuff like that.
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Apr 10, 2019 03:03
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I love it. Reminds me of what I wanted to do with the crapcar, but then didn't put the effort into it.
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Apr 10, 2019 03:29
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Anybody have any remedies for shiny decals after applying matte? I ygink someone called it "silvering"
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Apr 10, 2019 05:22
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Enos Shenk posted:
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Apr 10, 2019 08:44
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Phi230 posted:Anybody have any remedies for shiny decals after applying matte? I ygink someone called it "silvering" I always apply my decals on top of a gloss coat and seal with a gloss coat. The silvering is formed by little air bubbles under the decal, which wouldn't appear on a gloss surface, since it's flatter. I don't know if that's what you mean by shiny decals, but try that next time.
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Apr 10, 2019 13:32
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Ensign Expendable posted:I always apply my decals on top of a gloss coat and seal with a gloss coat. The silvering is formed by little air bubbles under the decal, which wouldn't appear on a gloss surface, since it's flatter. There's no way to repair it? I'll take a pic
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Apr 10, 2019 15:53
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I don't think I had a very good gloss coat down because even these polishing cloths took up some paint from the wing. Guess that's being weathered! I put all the decals down though and only ruined one because the instructions were mislabelled and I tried to move it to where it was supposed to be (the 119 on the other side) Should have checked beforehand though so my bad. Then I accidentally got 2 decals stuck to my finger while handing the plane and managed to save them with some extremely careful tweezer work. Spilling 75% of this bottle of microset was just the icing on the cake. Really hard to not be discouraged when literally everything feels like it's going wrong  Going to persevere because this is my first serious attempt at a plane and even if it goes wrong it's still experience. Seeing it from a distance makes me feel better because it looks pretty good when you're not over analysing every single fault.
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Apr 10, 2019 18:44
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Just remember, you can always hide your crimes. Maybe do a bit of battle damage, or some paint chipping. No mistakes, only happy accidents.
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Apr 10, 2019 19:24
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Those microset and sol bottles are designed to be accidentally knocked over. You're not the only one that's lost half a bottle to carelessness 
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Apr 10, 2019 19:31
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So I have the tamiya weathering powder, like that they sell like makeup? Is this recommended for making gun streaks on planes or is there some other way I should apply this. It seems the makeup applicator they give to you is kind of imprecise to use for fine lines
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Apr 10, 2019 20:32
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