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There's an aftermarket product called a bar snake marketed towards HD folks that's designed to deaden vibes in your bars but thirding the recommendation to just fill a bike tube with lead shot before you go buying new bar ends or other stuff
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Apr 10, 2019 01:54
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:That’s what they’re called and you never see the 800cc versions. Oh yeah I know about the name, I was surprised at the surprise. Guy I bought it from had 3 of them.
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Apr 10, 2019 05:21
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Guess that explains why they're so rare. loving hoarders! 
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Apr 10, 2019 08:17
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AlexanderCA posted:Oh yeah I know about the name, I was surprised at the surprise. Guy I bought it from had 3 of them. I'm guessing you arent in the US? Maybe they're more common outside the US
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Apr 10, 2019 15:49
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My buddy and I are gearing up to do our first real track day this summer, probably at Buttonwillow through Cali Track Days (only $100 and they provide free instruction if you need it, which we will). So far our only track experience was SoCal Supermoto, which is done at Adam's Motorsports kart track (plus a dirt section) on DRZ400s, provided by SoCal Supermoto (you just arrive and ride, nothing else to think about). It wasn't even hot that day and by the end of the day I was absolutely wiped, we did a private day and had way more than enough track time. My buddy routinely rides his bicycle on 60 mile rides through the hills so he was holding up much better than I was, but I couldn't have imagined having to ride a motorcycle home from that. The track is around 110miles from home so I'm definitely getting a hotel for the night before, but we're try trying to figure out the best way to get the bikes there. Obviously the best and easiest way is to get a trailer and tow them, but neither of our cars are setup for towing (plus he has a Volt), though I've been debating adding a hitch to my car for a bike rack anyway. Even if we towed them in the open 6x9 uhaul trailer, the area is a little meth-y so I'd be a little worried about the bikes getting stolen, though that's a concern if we rode them up instead of towing. Both of us always garage our bikes at home so we don't have any of the huge thick chains, disc locks/alarms, etc. Option B would be to ride the bikes up the night before, do a track day, stay at the hotel one more night for some R&R, then ride home early the next morning to make it to work. If you take into account having to buy and install the trailer hitch, rent the uhaul trailer, get straps (probably something like canyon dancers as I have clip ons), staying one extra night is actually a fair amount cheaper, though neither option is prohibitively expensive. What does everyone else do in these situations? If I knew for sure I would be doing a number of track days in the future I'd probably just fully commit to always towing, and that does mean I can bring folding chairs, coolers, tools, etc, but it seems like a never ending rabbit hole of buying more and more poo poo to be comfortable at the track (pop up tent, fan for your helmet, etc). FWIW we're probably going to end up there in July, when the weather will be brutally hot, so the fatigue will be real. tl;dr: how does everyone get to and from a track day, did you modify what you did over time, etc?
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Apr 10, 2019 18:28
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Rent a van? I don't know what US rates are like but here you can get a LWB Transit or some drop-back thing for like £50 a day.
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Apr 10, 2019 18:37
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I'm guessing you arent in the US? Maybe they're more common outside the US Netherlands yeah. If the Facebook group I'm in is anything to go on a lot of them ended up in Eastern Europe.
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Apr 10, 2019 18:42
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When I did my first trackday I rode my bike there, and it wasn't great. I was obviously super tired afterward, plus I didn't have poo poo with me. Luckily, there were lots of great people there who offered me chairs and canopies and gatorades etc. Next time I trailered it and it was much, much better. I bolted a trailer hitch to my little Civic and rented a U-Haul trailer, which worked out fine. Only problem is the UH trailers are meant for a single bike. But if you find a good rental trailer or can buy and build up a Harbor Freight trailer, that's the way to go. Also, if it's not too far away, renting a cargo van like RR suggested would work.
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Apr 10, 2019 18:42
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I just throw my bikes in the bed of my pickup, so that's not too helpful. How about a Uhaul van? A transit or sprinter or w/e? It'd be more expensive than riding, but I've heard tell riding to track days is unwise, as you can end up without a ride home if you wad it up. Maybe ride to your first one, since you'll likely be riding fairly gentle with the learner's pack, then pitch in for a cheap van/pickup/enclosed motorcycle trailer with your buddy if you decide you want to make it a regular thing?
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Apr 10, 2019 18:42
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How hard is it to do rear wheel bearings yourself? I've got to do sprocket and chains at the same time as well (which I've done before*), but have never done bearings and always thought it was something you had to leave to someone with a press. Watching a couple YT videos I can see how it'd work on a bike, but I don't have a punch for knocking them out, or a torch for heating the hub, just a heat gun. Might be able to borrow a punch or worst case use a screwdriver I don't care about. Take it to a mechanic or have a go myself? I don't really mind the money paying someone for a relatively small job like that, but I do want to learn to do more things on the bike myself. *pretty sure I can do them on the KLR; I did them on my postie but OTOH did have to take back wheel to mechanic to get him to rattlegun the bolts off. The rear tyre was 20
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Apr 10, 2019 21:52
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Ethics_Gradient posted:How hard is it to do rear wheel bearings yourself? Are you in the US? Advance/Autozone, etc usually rents tools (refundable deposit), so you can at-least get the punch. I haven't done bearings on a bike, but have on a car/trailer. Usually a matter of time and effort, but not really difficult.
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Apr 10, 2019 21:58
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Ethics_Gradient posted:How hard is it to do rear wheel bearings yourself? You don't need a heat gun or torch etc, those things are for weaklings. You just need a long 1/2" extension you don't care about and a really big hammer. Knocking them out is pretty easy and self explanatory. To install just use the old bearings as a drift and pound them in.
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Apr 10, 2019 22:00
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Renaissance Robot posted:Rent a van? I don't know what US rates are like but here you can get a LWB Transit or some drop-back thing for like £50 a day. Elviscat posted:How about a Uhaul van? A transit or sprinter or w/e? It'd be more expensive than riding, but I've heard tell riding to track days is unwise, as you can end up without a ride home if you wad it up. Upon further investigation, this may be the best method. Renting a van plus the mileage makes it around $200, but it also solves the theft issue. For some reason the hitch manufacturers make a hitch for what looks like every Lexus except my generation LS460 (2007). Some people on the forums got one for a newer model to work, but it ended up giving the rear of the car a body panel gap that would drive me crazy. I need to replace my wife's car this year, I'll just make sure whatever I end up getting can at least tow a trailer + bikes with an easily installed hitch.
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Apr 10, 2019 22:25
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Just get a minivan to replace your wife's car; I've transported many a bike in mine. Plus, you can sleep in it at the track!
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Apr 10, 2019 22:27
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Slavvy posted:You don't need a heat gun or torch etc, those things are for weaklings. You just need a long 1/2" extension you don't care about and a really big hammer. Knocking them out is pretty easy and self explanatory. To install just use the old bearings as a drift and pound them in. Yup, wheel bearings are only tricky if they are secured with some kinda special castle nut (like on the rear wheel of honda nx 250).
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Apr 10, 2019 23:00
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captainOrbital posted:Just get a minivan to replace your wife's car; I've transported many a bike in mine. Plus, you can sleep in it at the track! I'm cross shopping used Outbacks and even more used Cayenne Turbos, so it may as well be like buying a minivan
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Apr 11, 2019 01:45
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Slavvy posted:You don't need a heat gun or torch etc, those things are for weaklings. You just need a long 1/2" extension you don't care about and a really big hammer. Knocking them out is pretty easy and self explanatory. To install just use the old bearings as a drift and pound them in. Unfortunately I have pretty poor upper body strength and my tools are not of great quality. Talked myself out of doing CV joints on my Starlet after seeing someone's cheap breaker bar shear on the axle nut of a Corolla. I like the idea of using old bearings as a drift, definitely gonna try that. Do have a big rubber mallet. Brigdh posted:Are you in the US? Advance/Autozone, etc usually rents tools (refundable deposit), so you can at-least get the punch. I haven't done bearings on a bike, but have on a car/trailer. Usually a matter of time and effort, but not really difficult. Nah, 'straya. I have heard of that in the US but don't think I've heard of Supercheap or any of the others here doing that. I used to be able to check out whatever I needed from work for free at my old job which was awesome, but unfortunately my new workplace has has basically nothing automotive. I'll probably just buy the punch, looks like I can get a set of punches and chisels for AU$40. More than the bearings themselves and I'm trying not to build too big of a tool library, but worth it for the learning experience (or if I need them later). Supradog posted:Yup, wheel bearings are only tricky if they are secured with some kinda special castle nut (like on the rear wheel of honda nx 250). Sweet as. I am going to give it a go!
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Apr 11, 2019 08:41
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You won't need anywhere near the level of violence required for CV joint nuts. One of the best things about working on bikes is how not-physical most stuff is, just using your head and making the tools do the work. You'll be fine. Remember to clean everything thoroughly, deburr the bearing lands on the wheel + lube the bearing with oil to ease installation. Grease the axle, seals and spacers when you put things together; any decent bearing kit should come with new seals - don't lube the outside edge when fitting seals as they'll just fall out, they need to go in dry so the rubber coating can bite and deform into the alloy.
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Apr 11, 2019 10:26
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My Daytona 675 previously had an issue where it wouldn't start every so often, usually worse when you try and start it when it's hot or just turned it off for a few mins. Replaced the starter relay in December and it seemed to fix it, then this past week it came back all of a sudden, and if anything it's even harder to get it going. The relay is only $12 so I bought two more online just now, I'm guessing it's one of those bathtub curve things where that relay was just not going to make it, but is there anything else I should be checking? When it doesn't start you don't hear the starter going at all, and the headlights don't turn off, so I'm assuming at a minimum the relay is bad. I did try starting in neutral just to make sure it wasn't the clutch switch.
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Apr 11, 2019 21:27
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Sidestand switch or neutral sending unit?
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Apr 11, 2019 22:04
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MomJeans420 posted:My Daytona 675 previously had an issue where it wouldn't start every so often, usually worse when you try and start it when it's hot or just turned it off for a few mins. Replaced the starter relay in December and it seemed to fix it, then this past week it came back all of a sudden, and if anything it's even harder to get it going. The relay is only $12 so I bought two more online just now, I'm guessing it's one of those bathtub curve things where that relay was just not going to make it, but is there anything else I should be checking? When it doesn't start you don't hear the starter going at all, and the headlights don't turn off, so I'm assuming at a minimum the relay is bad. I've explained this problem to you before. It does this because the starter relay gets power from an ecu, the button on the handlebar is just a signal telling it to start cranking. If your battery voltage is below a certain amount the ECU just says no you haven't got enough battery to even try this. There are multiple things that can cause this issue and is exceedingly unlikely the new relay is faulty out of the box unless it's some AliExpress thing. You've already replaced your relay, now you need to replace your battery with a good one that has the highest CCA rating you can find; avoid motobatt or similar one size fits all types, get one specifically for your model. Then you need to take apart and clean every single terminal and connector in the starter circuit, as well as every single earth on the bike. Don't assume that something looking factory means it's ok as the factory often gently caress things up with triumphs eg if your earth strap bolts onto a bit of the engine that's powder coated, sand that spot back to bare alloy. They also sometimes have a dead-end connector that has a billion wires going in one end being bridged by an earth bar at the other end; if you have one, take it apart and clean the gently caress out of it. Tl;Dr anything even slightly awry in the starter circuit will cause voltage drops that trigger the problem. Ducatis use the exact same principle, have exactly the same problems, are fixed in exactly the same way.
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Apr 11, 2019 22:46
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Sidestand switch or neutral sending unit? I believe it should start in neutral even with the sidestand down, so probably not that. Slavvy posted:*triumph woes* The new relay fixed it perfectly for 3 months, now it's abruptly failing. I haven't received the relay I just ordered, so far all I know that will fix it, but I may as well do what you said and go over all the connections and make sure everything is clean. My battery is a fairly new Yuasa (correct one for the bike) and I've been religiously keeping it on a OptiMate tender after killing multiple batteries in the past. Relays seem pretty simple so it's weird if it did just die in 3 months of use, but then again it's British so... It's a good excuse to finally getting around to balancing my throttle bodies anyway, and maybe even clean the bike if I'm feeling especially crazy.
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Apr 12, 2019 02:01
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New dumb question: How do I determine if I want to adjust the kill time of my quickhifter up or down? Between 3,000 and 7,000 rpm it's a little harsh, and if I've got the throttle fairly wide open it can be abrupt. At light throttle above 7,000 it's magical. Translogic say it should be good to go out of the box, so I don't want to mess with it too much, but maybe ~10 ms in one direction or the other would make a difference. Decreasing the trigger force setting already did a lot.
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Apr 12, 2019 02:27
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If I'm cruising at speed and suddenly throttle up to accelerate, but instead my tach just goes nuts, what's the more likely point of failure? A slipping clutch, or the rear wheel coming unstuck? I'm leaning towards the clutch, because I didn't particularly feel the back end swaying or anything, but then I was just going in a straight line so...  Either way I know the solution is to just not be dong and be smooth with the controls.
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Apr 12, 2019 19:22
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If the tach is going up but the engine is not accelerating, it's a problem with the tachometer. If the tach is going up and the engine is accelerating but the speedometer is staying the same, it's a slipping clutch. If the tach is going up and the engine is accelerating and the speedometer is accelerating but the bike is not, the rear tire is slipping. If the tach is going up and the engine is accelerating and the speedometer is accelerating and the bike is accelerating, go away you don't have any problems everything is working fine
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Apr 12, 2019 19:38
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Cruising 70mph at 4krpm Add throttle, bike soooorta haltingly slowly climbs to 80mph (which would normally mean 4.5krpm), tach swings up to 7krpm and bounces sporadically up and down. Speedo feeds off the front wheel so all indicated speed changes are actually happening.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:08
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Renaissance Robot posted:Cruising 70mph at 4krpm If anything physically slips when you give it a triple-ish digit amount of hp, you'll know. Clutch slipping is very evident, rear wheel slipping an order of magnitude more so. Tach problems are weird because it's often driven be secondary effects, like magnetic impulse from coil wires or similar. There's probably something weird going on electrically.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:24
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Ola posted:a triple-ish digit amount of hp That would be especially surprising given this one tops out at 47hp. There's definitely some physical slipping happening (a feeling I'm familiar with as I managed to find a 4-5 false neutral a lot when I first got this bike, you get this weird forward and back jerking sensation in your body), and I got familiar with rear wheel spin on the zzr. Again, through inappropriate donging. If you're saying wheelspin is more noticeable than clutch spin then it's probably definitely the clutch. I'm more curious than anything, like I said it's not something that's happening in normal riding conditions. Thanks for the input!
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Apr 12, 2019 20:35
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Ah. Hmm. Then you're probably in the lower 20s when you're throttling up, given that it's at low rpm. Could well be clutch then. It should be easy to hear the engine revving up to remove all doubt. On most bikes it's very easy to change the friction plates, so not a big deal. If you change them too late, you'll need to change the steel plates as well. 
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Apr 12, 2019 20:38
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Yeah, high-torque clutch slipping like you just described is the first warning sign of a clutch that's about to go bad, may want to crack the clutch cover and have a look-see, also check your clutch cable adjustment. If it was your rear wheel you'd be posting "oh gently caress guys I just almost died"
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Apr 12, 2019 23:02
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I'm putting together a frankenvespa, it's a 1964 PX 150. I've been told to retain as much of the original vespa stuff I could, including the 6V electrics, so the engine itself is a mishmash of original vespa, bajaj and LML parts. Is there some sort of resource about these things somewhere? I'm trying to get an idea of where to go with the fixed ignition timing and jetting, and what sort of oil and mixture to run. Because my engine doesn't match any specs anywhere I really need more of like a tuner's guide as to how much advance is acceptable, normal jetting ranges etc so I can figure it out; factory specs won't help me.
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Apr 13, 2019 00:18
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Slavvy posted:I'm putting together a frankenvespa, it's a 1964 PX 150. I've been told to retain as much of the original vespa stuff I could, including the 6V electrics, so the engine itself is a mishmash of original vespa, bajaj and LML parts. Is there some sort of resource about these things somewhere? I'm trying to get an idea of where to go with the fixed ignition timing and jetting, and what sort of oil and mixture to run. Because my engine doesn't match any specs anywhere I really need more of like a tuner's guide as to how much advance is acceptable, normal jetting ranges etc so I can figure it out; factory specs won't help me. You can start here: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/09/understanding-ignition-timing-making-maximum-power-means-knowing-science/ Your loved ones can start here: https://www.psychiatry.org/patients-families/understanding-mental-disorders
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Apr 13, 2019 09:00
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A non-problem: the 125 (carbed) is currently only starting without choke; hit the button and it will quickly catch and proceed to idle just under 1000rpm with what sounds like the odd misfire, but is generally stable unless I try to add choke or throttle. After a minute I can very gently add throttle to get it to rev up, but adding it quickly kills it. It takes a good five minutes of idle/low revs to warm up enough to stop doing this and for the idle rpms to ride above 1000. I say it's a non-problem because once it's warm it's fine, and it is startable, but any ideas what this is? Is it just set over-rich? And if that's the case, why doesn't it idle faster once it's warmed up? (it never seems to rise above 1200, the factory recommended idle speed)
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Apr 14, 2019 18:28
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How is the choke actuated? I had a CB 250 that had its little choke plunger nestled underneath the clutch cable. One day, I started getting worse fuel economy and other overly-rich symptoms. Turns out that the cable that goes to the choke plunger was not returning fully to pushed OFF due to its cramped position, and the choke was always cracked open. Fussing with the plunger and tugging on the cable fixed it.
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Apr 14, 2019 19:24
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Renaissance Robot posted:And if that's the case, why doesn't it idle faster once it's warmed up? (it never seems to rise above 1200, the factory recommended idle speed) As the mixture gets richer and richer, it eventually starts making less power. When it's too rich, it stops. When it's cold, the mixture is just right as parts of the fuel is condensing at the cold cylinder wall and isn't part of the combustion. As the engine heats up, more fuel is burnt and the resulting mixture is richer. So yeah, probably set too rich.
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Apr 14, 2019 19:28
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Sounds like the choke is stuck on yeah.
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Apr 14, 2019 20:22
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Slavvy posted:I'm putting together a frankenvespa, it's a 1964 PX 150. I've been told to retain as much of the original vespa stuff I could, including the 6V electrics, so the engine itself is a mishmash of original vespa, bajaj and LML parts. Is there some sort of resource about these things somewhere? I'm trying to get an idea of where to go with the fixed ignition timing and jetting, and what sort of oil and mixture to run. Because my engine doesn't match any specs anywhere I really need more of like a tuner's guide as to how much advance is acceptable, normal jetting ranges etc so I can figure it out; factory specs won't help me. Well the PX didn’t exist until the 80s so you have something else. Could have a PX or similar motor though, they’re all about the same There’s a Haynes or Chiltons guide for vintage Vespa. And these sites might be good starting points: http://scooterhelp.com http://vespamaintenance.com http://scooterlounge.com Not sure if they have jetting info though. There was a forum called StellaSpeed that focused on Stella’s/Stars that used to have a useful jetting database but I don’t know if it’s still up. I have a Stella with a stock motor, Sito+ exhaust and the stock 20mm carb with a 104 main jet, BE3 mixer, 160 air corrector, and a 55/160 idle aka the “Bald John jet stack” after a StellaSpeed user. This is probably not right for what you’re dealing with unless it’s a reed valved 150 but might be a useful comparison point. Oh and modernvespa.com might be a good forum to start at despite the name. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/touch/Default.aspx is generally the best for parts
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Apr 14, 2019 21:02
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Well the PX didn’t exist until the 80s so you have something else. Could have a PX or similar motor though, they’re all about the same Thanks for this! I call it a PX out of ignorance and convenience but it's an old VBB chassis with a factory 2 port engine, now converted to a bajaj 3 port which is identical in every respect besides the barrel, piston and head. Factory engine has a heavily domed piston and a very large, inefficient combustion chamber. Bajaj has a flat piston and a much smaller combustion chamber. I'm still running the factory points which have totally static timing, no advance of any kind. That's my biggest worry, I don't want to destroy it by accident.
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Apr 14, 2019 22:39
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Renaissance Robot posted:That would be especially surprising given this one tops out at 47hp. When did you last change the oil, and what did you use?
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Apr 15, 2019 06:16
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Over a month ago. I did not use car oil.
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Apr 15, 2019 12:29
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