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Electric Bugaloo posted:If you were worried you could shim it but it’s prob fine. Okay thanks, that's a relief! Pretty much all the "48 inch vanities" are 49 inches wide so there's not much else I could do anyway. What do you mean by shim exactly? I'm pretty new to all of this.
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Apr 13, 2019 03:45
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there wolf posted:Almost off the front page, let's see what dumb poo poo I have stashed away... Is this honestly a bathroom in a private home? Because the fast-casual-restaurant restroom vibes are loving profound.
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Apr 13, 2019 03:58
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there wolf posted:Almost off the front page, let's see what dumb poo poo I have stashed away... The shower saves space by letting you wash just one half of your body at a time
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Apr 13, 2019 04:00
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That shower is just a pass through to the bedroom and it's the only way in
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Apr 13, 2019 04:38
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actionjackson posted:Okay thanks, that's a relief! Pretty much all the "48 inch vanities" are 49 inches wide so there's not much else I could do anyway. What do you mean by shim exactly? I'm pretty new to all of this. A wedge you use to hold something in place. If the top isn't wobbling then it should be fine, but the gap is a little unattractive. Is it hidden pretty well under the overhang, or do you need to think about some kind of patch? Antivehicular posted:Is this honestly a bathroom in a private home? Because the fast-casual-restaurant restroom vibes are loving profound. I don't know what it is. I was thinking it was a public restroom of sorts with an optional show they didn't expect to get much use, so they made it tiny. But then why the double sinks in the same room? there wolf fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Apr 13, 2019 |
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Apr 13, 2019 04:50
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there wolf posted:A wedge you use to hold something in place. If the top isn't wobbling then it should be fine, but the gap is a little unattractive. Is it hidden pretty well under the overhang, or do you need to think about some kind of patch? It's not visible at all. But I think having something to cover the gap would probably be a good idea anyway. How long should it take for the caulk to set?
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Apr 13, 2019 04:55
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actionjackson posted:I attached my new vanity top. Unfortunately even though it's classified as a "48 inch" vanity top it's actually 49 inches. However it says it fits a 48x21 vanity which is what I have. After putting it on (my vanity is in the right corner of the bathroom) it overshoots the left edge by a bit, i.e. the vanity top doesn't actually touch the left top edge of the vanity. The caulking is touching fine in the back and right side, and the front. Is this an issue? Pretty much every vanity tabletop or sink will overshoot the vanity itself by a centimeter or two just so any water dripping off the edge has a greater chance of dripping past the vanity rather than getting on it and potentially damaging the wood. Of course, depending on the manufacturer, sometimes the listed width is the sink, other times it's the vanity itself. A good reason to always double check those measurements if your space is extremely limited. The only exception tends to be acrylic-based(i.e. it's loving plastic, no matter what they tell you or what fancy name they give it) sinks which occasionally run perfectly flush with the vanity. Of course, these sinks are also garbage that will scratch up unless you're super careful about cleaning and you can't use 90% of all cleaning products without dissolving them. So just get ceramic, glass, stone or one of the good alternatives.
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Apr 13, 2019 09:55
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Antivehicular posted:Is this honestly a bathroom in a private home? Because the fast-casual-restaurant restroom vibes are loving profound.
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Apr 13, 2019 10:02
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The Bloop posted:That shower is just a pass through to the bedroom and it's the only way in Whoever built the shower took "half bath" a little too literally
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Apr 13, 2019 12:42
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 The Bloop posted:That shower is just a pass through to the bedroom and it's the only way in It's actually the Tardis for the new season of Dr. Who.
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Apr 13, 2019 15:19
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actionjackson posted:It's not visible at all. But I think having something to cover the gap would probably be a good idea anyway. You might need some foam filler if the gap is large. Something like this.
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Apr 13, 2019 18:43
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What about a nice thicc bead of silicone caulk?
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Apr 13, 2019 19:08
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It's a 1/4" gap per the OP, caulk can handle that no problem.
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Apr 13, 2019 19:41
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Yep. And I would do it in two stages if it's gonna be a deep fill.
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Apr 13, 2019 19:47
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actionjackson posted:Okay here you go. I just talked to the guy at the home depot. He said it should be fine. The gap is about 1/4 inch between the vanity edge and the vanity top edge. I think the reason this happened is because the vanity is in the back right corner, so I can't center it, i.e. the extra inch all has to be on the left side. I'm just going to wipe up the caulk that's in there. Late to the game, but caulk and a strip of quarter-round molding is how most installers would finish this. The overhang is quite normal.
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Apr 13, 2019 20:30
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Goober Peas posted:Late to the game, but caulk and a strip of quarter-round molding is how most installers would finish this. The overhang is quite normal. Yup and at home depot you can cut your 1/4" round to length, and, you can get vinyl instead of actual wood so it won't swell and rot from all the bathroom moisture. But, the cut-off end will want a little paint or something.
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Apr 13, 2019 20:44
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Goober Peas posted:Late to the game, but caulk and a strip of quarter-round molding is how most installers would finish this. The overhang is quite normal. Okay I will do that. Can you point me to an example of the moulding you are talking about? Here is the (essentially finished) vanity as I completed the new faucet install today. Had to a get new water supply lines and a PVC tube extension. Obviously I'm going to remove the caulk lines from the sidesplash area and then paint the side and back to match the walls. Another option is to put some sort of tile thing between the small backsplash and the mirror. That area is 2.25 inches tall. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 13, 2019 |
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Apr 13, 2019 20:45
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https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Moulding-Millwork-Moulding/Quarter-Round/N-5yc1vZara1Z1z135qo
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Apr 13, 2019 20:46
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Leperflesh posted:https://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Moulding-Millwork-Moulding/Quarter-Round/N-5yc1vZara1Z1z135qo thanks! Once I get that I will run caulk in the gap and then use that to attack the moulding.
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Apr 13, 2019 20:48
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I vote paint over tile, unless you're really worried about water splashes ruining something.
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Apr 13, 2019 20:55
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there wolf posted:I vote paint over tile, unless you're really worried about water splashes ruining something. I just want to make sure there isn't any issue with the paint not handling water very well. It's a latex paint but that's all I know about it.
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Apr 13, 2019 21:19
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actionjackson posted:thanks! Once I get that I will run caulk in the gap and then use that to attack the moulding. You probably want to use appropriate sized finish nails into the vanity rather than caulk to attach the quarter-round.
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Apr 13, 2019 21:55
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actionjackson posted:I just want to make sure there isn't any issue with the paint not handling water very well. It's a latex paint but that's all I know about it. One way around this is to put a clear coat of polyurethane or clear epoxy over the painted tiles. Poly yellows over time, so if it were me, I'd use clear garage floor epoxy. Lowe's sells a Rustoleum brand kit in their paint department
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Apr 14, 2019 03:26
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Goober Peas posted:You probably want to use appropriate sized finish nails into the vanity rather than caulk to attach the quarter-round. Do I want to nail from the inside or the outside? I assume the inside so the nail isn't showing on the outside. I do have one other question - I'm getting my fiberglass tub/shower refinished and so I've been replacing all the gross fixtures while I'm at it. There is this grab bar that I want to remove - it looks to be PVC of some type, and it's completely solid. I tried cutting it with a hacksaw in the middle but I'm pretty sure I will need some sort of power tool to cut it into pieces. I'm just wondering if you know how something like this is attached? Am I actually going to be able to get it out, or do you think it's permanent (i.e. is there something holding it on from behind the shower wall)? Also if I do remove it, is there something I can use to cover those two holes so water doesn't spill out?
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Apr 14, 2019 17:59
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actionjackson posted:Do I want to nail from the inside or the outside? I assume the inside so the nail isn't showing on the outside. The bar is made of clear acrylic, and likely has flanges at the rear that will surely be fused to the fiberglass backside of the shower surround. There will be no easy solution to removing it cleanly, nor an easy repair for the penetration holes
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Apr 14, 2019 18:37
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MY NIGGA D-LINK posted:The bar is made of clear acrylic, and likely has flanges at the rear that will surely be fused to the fiberglass backside of the shower surround. There will be no easy solution to removing it cleanly, nor an easy repair for the penetration holes Okay thanks. The people doing the refinishing said they could remove it and plug the holes for like 100 bucks (lol) so I assume they have some magical equipment or whatever. At the very least perhaps it could be removed enough so that I could put a new bar over the space.
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Apr 14, 2019 18:42
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actionjackson posted:Okay thanks. The people doing the refinishing said they could remove it and plug the holes for like 100 bucks (lol) so I assume they have some magical equipment or whatever. The refinishers will have a far better technique and/or tools for removal and repair than you can without their specialized tools and knowledge. $100 may sound like a lot, but those are big holes to fill and blend. It's not an unreasonable number
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Apr 14, 2019 18:50
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It’s like a couple of extra hours of work, $100 sounds fine
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Apr 14, 2019 18:52
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actionjackson posted:Do I want to nail from the inside or the outside? I assume the inside so the nail isn't showing on the outside. Nail from the outside, downward toward the cabinet using finishing nails. If you're using a pneumatic gun you won't have an issue countersinking the nails, but if not, you'll need to pick up a nail set to get them flush. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/apply-quarter-round-trim-82831.html
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Apr 14, 2019 18:57
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Okay cool thanks for the info. I'll pick up the vinyl moulding.
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Apr 14, 2019 19:54
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if I was gonna remove that bar, I'd cut it off flush with a sawzall and then drill it through with a big bit, then get in the hole with a keyhole saw and chop it up into bits, and then ream that out, and then stand back and look at the horrible mess I'd made and cry
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Apr 14, 2019 20:14
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I would assume they are just going to cut it off as flush as possible, then just take a hole saw slightly bigger than the bar to it, then epoxy in a plug to seal it off. You'll probably be able to see it, but it shouldn't look too bad. Finally getting to the point in our remodel where it's time to start finalizing all the finishes and buying furniture. I don't think we will be doing anything to end up in this thread. We aren't putting any upper cabinets in our kitchen tho, which we have been told is crazy. Also, granite slabs are loving expensive.
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Apr 14, 2019 21:05
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slurry_curry posted:I would assume they are just going to cut it off as flush as possible, then just take a hole saw slightly bigger than the bar to it, then epoxy in a plug to seal it off. You'll probably be able to see it, but it shouldn't look too bad. Are you doing open shelving, or just don't like reaching up for things? I'm planning on ripping out the uppers in my kitchen, too, but I'm putting in an old pie chest for ups and plates so I don't have to stoop for them.
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Apr 14, 2019 21:24
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There are going to be some open shelves, not exactly sure how many tho. Part of the problem is with the window and range hood placement there would be barely any room for uppers anyway. There will be uppers on one wall where the fridge and double wall ovens are going, but there only going to be 26" between them. Hopefully we will have enough storage, the pantry should help tho.
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Apr 14, 2019 21:52
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Did the painting today. Also I got the vinyl quarter moulding. The depth of the vanity is 21" but I'm going to to 20" because there's a little ridge that sticks out at the front end so it wouldn't be flush there. I got some white finishing nails and a 1/32" nailset. How many nails would you recommend using? And you said I want to nail from the outside, starting at the top part of the moulding and going at a downward angle correct?
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Apr 14, 2019 22:19
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The nails just need to be enough to hold it in place; it's not really carrying any load to speak of. I'd say put them every 12-18" with one within an inch or two of each end.
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Apr 14, 2019 22:39
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Leperflesh posted:if I was gonna remove that bar, I'd cut it off flush with a sawzall and then drill it through with a big bit, then get in the hole with a keyhole saw and chop it up into bits, and then ream that out, and then stand back and look at the horrible mess I'd made and cry I'd burn it off beyond the inside of the opening with a soldering pen myself, but then again, I'd rip out the fiberglass altogether and build a tile shower bc I know how and have the tools to do these things
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Apr 14, 2019 22:50
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MY NIGGA D-LINK posted:I'd burn it off beyond the inside of the opening with a soldering pen myself, but then again, I'd rip out the fiberglass altogether and build a tile shower bc I know how and have the tools to do these things I got an estimate for replacing it with a walk in shower but it was at least 8k cool flex tho
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Apr 14, 2019 23:42
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actionjackson posted:I got an estimate for replacing it with a walk in shower but it was at least 8k If you say so. Building is my profession
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Apr 15, 2019 00:34
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I'm trying to nail this quarter molding in but having trouble. First off all just because of the angle, but mainly because the end of the vanity top is right above it, i.e. <1/2 inch. So I can't really hammer it much without running into the vanity top edge, and I certainly don't want to damage that. I tried using that 1/32" nailset but I everytime I'd hit that it would come off the nail.
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Apr 15, 2019 00:40
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