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Yeah it's pretty much default settings, I've changed settings in Cura and Octoprint before but nothing to do with the console other than this tutorial. Running a test print of the hollow cube after setting it to relative mode. The whole printer seems to move much smoother with no random grinding noises. Is there a way to set relative mode to default or even just set the extruder to relative mode by default M83? -edit Ok trying to script "G91 ; relative mode" in Octoprint or cura as a start of print command makes Gcode go all turbofucky and try to just run off the rear right edge of the build area while constantly extruding. Won't be doing that again. Verizian fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 23:37
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I made several passes at leveling my ender 3 pro using a .004 feeler gauge, and it looks like the center of the stock bed is a little bit dished. I got it as good as I can without shimming it, and fired off the test-dog print on the card it ships with. I expect to get some kind of monstrosity in several hours. Once I see what I get, I'll circle back and do the things I should be doing like calibrating e steps and printing some actual useful tests. Really I just wanted to see it go at least! Edit: 90 minutes in it actually looks pretty decent? I kicked the table in the first 10 minutes, which probably didn't help, and the skirt was a bit messy and has come off the bed towards the back, but the print itself looks way better than I expected for the level of effort I put in. armorer fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 9, 2019 00:13
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Found this earlier, was planning on using em to tune up the printer, thought I'd share. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893
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Apr 9, 2019 02:26
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The first layers were kind of a mess, but then it started printing pretty well so I went to sleep. I woke up to maybe 2/3rds of a print and a whole lot of spaghetti. Essentially those crappy first few layers eventually let go and the print nozzle pushed the print to the back of the bed and then air printed for a while. I'm going to try shimming the center with some aluminum foil to fill the low spot, doing the e step calibration, and then see if I can print a benchy or some of the other more useful tests. This half a test dog is actually much better looking than I was expecting though.
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Apr 9, 2019 12:32
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Enjoy my little day print project https://www.instagram.com/p/BwBQBdylVZ5/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=pj96ulgdxwtr
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Apr 9, 2019 12:52
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armorer posted:I'm going to try shimming the center with some aluminum foil to fill the low spot, doing the e step calibration, and then see if I can print a benchy or some of the other more useful tests. Don't mess with shims. Look into mesh bed leveling instead. It'll compensate for a warped bed without the need for a sensor. It's not the best solution for every case, but it's free, so it's a good place to start. I can print on every square freedom unit of my bed now, and it's warped almost everywhere.
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Apr 9, 2019 17:45
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One Legged Ninja posted:Don't mess with shims. Look into mesh bed leveling instead. It'll compensate for a warped bed without the need for a sensor. It's not the best solution for every case, but it's free, so it's a good place to start. I can print on every square freedom unit of my bed now, and it's warped almost everywhere. I was going to type up a post explaining that my bed was almost level except for a slight central dip, so shimming it would probably work fine. Regardless of that though, you're still right. I do intend to eventually set up auto bed leveling as well. I just want it printing well enough for now that I can print parts for a lack enclosure and a few other upgrades.
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Apr 9, 2019 19:39
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Had some time off and thought I'd chop up an action figure. My CR10s is a bit cranky though, and the print didn't turn out super fantastic. Annoying how sometimes it's the printer and sometimes it's Cura's gcode.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3552324 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3552163
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Apr 10, 2019 00:10
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Ceive posted:Had some time off and thought I'd chop up an action figure. My CR10s is a bit cranky though, and the print didn't turn out super fantastic. Annoying how sometimes it's the printer and sometimes it's Cura's gcode. You are amazing, I've got to print one of these out! DUB FRAME is one of my favorites! I've got a CR-10 too, I'll see how well it goes.
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Apr 10, 2019 01:04
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armorer posted:I was going to type up a post explaining that my bed was almost level except for a slight central dip, so shimming it would probably work fine. Regardless of that though, you're still right. I do intend to eventually set up auto bed leveling as well. Anecdotally, I have a couple small sheets of aluminum foil under the center of my 330x330 glass to bring the slight dip up to level, and it works like a champ. Also not necessarily the best solution for every case, etc, but it's working well enough that I haven't felt the need to do anything different so far. "Different" in my case is going to involve eventually changing my control board, because the stock Melzi doesn't have enough memory to add mesh leveling on top the other other things I already have enabled in the firmware.
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Apr 10, 2019 14:32
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I tried doing that but the PCB heat bed is more flexible than the glass so it just pushed the PCB down more 
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Apr 10, 2019 14:44
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Acid Reflux posted:Anecdotally, I have a couple small sheets of aluminum foil under the center of my 330x330 glass to bring the slight dip up to level, and it works like a champ. Also not necessarily the best solution for every case, etc, but it's working well enough that I haven't felt the need to do anything different so far. "Different" in my case is going to involve eventually changing my control board, because the stock Melzi doesn't have enough memory to add mesh leveling on top the other other things I already have enabled in the firmware. Heh, yeah I haven't had more time to tinker with it yet. I may just go this route for now so I can get it printing some upgrades rather than sitting idle.
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Apr 10, 2019 14:51
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Sooooooooooooooo my Melzi board that I ordered over two months ago is clearly lost in the ocean or something and I'm going to need to order another one. In the meantime, I was thinking of getting a cool delta printer so I'm not out of commission for six months at a time here. I guess my questions are: 1) does anyone have any experience with the Monoprice Mini Delta? It looks neat and the price is right but the small build space would probably be a pain really quick. 2) if there's a better option in the <$400 price range I'd love to hear it. I prefer things more or less pre-assembled but if there's a really good idiot-proof kit out there I'm all ears. 3) anyone know where I can source a Melzi board and have it not take months to show up? The shipping estimate on the one I ordered was enough to make me grumble to begin with, but Amazon requiring me to wait an extra week after the final delivery date AND contact the seller AND wait longer on top of that to get a refund is driving me nuts.
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Apr 12, 2019 17:15
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I’ve got a mini delta and love it for small, quick prints. The small build space definitely sucks but it makes up for it by being basically plug n go (I do bigger prints on my MP10). An added bonus is that it’s super easy to close up the sides for heat retention.
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Apr 13, 2019 02:22
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I'm working on dialling in my Volcano nozzle. It's on a TronXY X5S-400, which is a big beast of a coreXY machine. So far, this is what I've got:   I'm using a 1.2mm nozzle, and that was printed at .8mm. First layer is at 90% height, 100% layer width, and 50% speed. As you can see, it kind of overextrudes on that first layer, and the top layers have similar, but much more minor issues. I've already got the extrusion multiplier at .9. Any ideas? I'm thinking I'll dial down that first layer width a bit, and see if that helps. I use S3D as my slicer, so if anyone needs/wants the FFF file, just ask. Edit: everything apart from top and bottom layers is great so far. TwystNeko fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Apr 14, 2019 |
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Apr 14, 2019 02:56
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I would leave the extrusion multiplier alone and fiddle with the setting that controls the overlap between the infill and the perimeters. Its a percentage value, IIRC, and since you're using a much larger nozzle diameter there will need to be more overlap to "close" those gaps.
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Apr 14, 2019 14:20
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Update on my Ender 3 pro - I shimmed the center of the bed with some aluminum foil from my kitchen, and it's printing fine. I printed some simple filament guides (I'll replace with rollers eventually), benchy, a multi-aspect test print, and that articulated octopus thing. There's definite room for improvement, so I'll be doing the e-steps calibration and temperature towers, but it's working fine in general.   I'm going to build a lack enclosure, so I'll probably do e-steps, then print the enclosure parts, and them do temperature towers once it's in an enclosure.
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Apr 15, 2019 01:20
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Those look like really good prints FWIW
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Apr 15, 2019 01:29
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mewse posted:Those look like really good prints FWIW Thanks, I'm totally happy with how it's printing, I just think it can do a bit better. If I zoom in on the thin towers in the multi-calibration thing, there's a fair amount of irregularity in thickness and also some stringing. I think e-steps and temps will help dial that in a bit. There's also a few irregular levels on the hull of benchy that may be extrusion related or maybe the z lead screw is binding a little bit in one spot (I need to see if they appear at a consistent height across prints.) The calibration print and benchy were printed at 0.2mm slices with the default Cura settings for the Ender 3. The octopus was printed at 0.15mm. I printed these before tinkering any further because I wanted a baseline.
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Apr 15, 2019 01:41
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hosed around with a 0.8mm nozzle and that was a wild and fun time Made this kinda lovely unicorn in like 7 hours
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Apr 15, 2019 02:24
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armorer posted:Thanks, I'm totally happy with how it's printing, I just think it can do a bit better. If I zoom in on the thin towers in the multi-calibration thing, there's a fair amount of irregularity in thickness and also some stringing. I think e-steps and temps will help dial that in a bit. There's also a few irregular levels on the hull of benchy that may be extrusion related or maybe the z lead screw is binding a little bit in one spot (I need to see if they appear at a consistent height across prints.) I don't know if it helped my Ender 3 or not, really, but I printed this for the z-axis to try and help with any weird deflection and lubed the lead screw with some high quality grease: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080912 Your prints look really good, though.
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Apr 15, 2019 04:25
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Need a little help. Friend has some trouble with his printer and he (like me) is an idiot when it comes to wiring things. He bought a replacement heat bed for his tevo, and the one he got in has a male connector. The one it's replacing had a female connector. Is it possible to cut the end off the old bed (was a broken wire that caused the problem) and just pop the end onto the new bed and use some solder connectors to hold it all together? I can't see the wiring changing much on a bed, but he has no idea, and I'm not exactly a wiring guru. Thought I'd check with some of the pros in here before we try to burn his house down with the best of intentions.
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Apr 15, 2019 08:03
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Need a little help. Friend has some trouble with his printer and he (like me) is an idiot when it comes to wiring things. Well... yes, if he's absolutely sure that the heater is the same voltage and uses the same amount of power (or is compatible). Not having the same connectors makes me concerned he may not have the correct replacement and soldering the wires to the old connector will make it not returnable if that's the case. Also bear in mind that solder won't flex so if the connection he's trying to solder is in a part that moves it could break or cause the copper conductors to be more stressed around it. So while that's a thing you can do I'd be really careful to make sure he's got the right thing and just the wrong connector and not the wrong thing entirely.
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Apr 15, 2019 08:17
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Rexxed posted:Well... yes, if he's absolutely sure that the heater is the same voltage and uses the same amount of power (or is compatible). Not having the same connectors makes me concerned he may not have the correct replacement and soldering the wires to the old connector will make it not returnable if that's the case. Also bear in mind that solder won't flex so if the connection he's trying to solder is in a part that moves it could break or cause the copper conductors to be more stressed around it. Yea, it's the same voltage. Apparently the newer model printer swaps out a male connector to a female one. It's not returnable anyway (past the return window). We were thinking about it earlier, and if we cut the cable like halfway down the line instead of RIGHT AT THE CONNECTOR we have plenty of wiggle room, so the cable can move as the bed moves but shouldn't strain the connectors too badly. I think he has a ticket in with the maker of the printer as well as where he bought it from, so someone, somewhere should have ~some~ kinda idea of what's going on, hopefully.
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Apr 15, 2019 09:42
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Yea, it's the same voltage. Apparently the newer model printer swaps out a male connector to a female one. It's not returnable anyway (past the return window). We were thinking about it earlier, and if we cut the cable like halfway down the line instead of RIGHT AT THE CONNECTOR we have plenty of wiggle room, so the cable can move as the bed moves but shouldn't strain the connectors too badly. It sounds like it would be alright, then. Be sure to put some heat shrink on the soldered bits to avoid shorting. Maybe even stagger the solder points so they don't rub through and short just in case. I once got a wiring harness for my car stereo and the nimrods put one end of it on completely upside down. I couldn't easily repin the connector so I just cut all the wires and flipped it and soldered them back together. It was a pain but it's been working for years.
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Apr 15, 2019 09:52
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:We were thinking about it earlier, and if we cut the cable like halfway down the line instead of RIGHT AT THE CONNECTOR we have plenty of wiggle room, so the cable can move as the bed moves but shouldn't strain the connectors too badly. This is a really, really bad idea if you intend to solder these wires together. Solder is brittle, and will creep up under the insulation a bit when done properly, making an entire section of the wire brittle. This simply will not last in this application. The likely correct way to handle this is to use that correct tool to extract the pins from each connector, re-crimp the correct connectors on the new part and re-install them into the correct connector.
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Apr 15, 2019 12:59
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Need a little help. Friend has some trouble with his printer and he (like me) is an idiot when it comes to wiring things. I had a Tevo Tornado and ended up soldering the bed connector to the bed. I did print this strain relief that attaches to the bottom of one of the leveling screws for my own piece of mind and never had a problem afterwards. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920581
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Apr 15, 2019 16:23
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Just get some of these and stop over-engineering solutions.
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Apr 15, 2019 16:37
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The hell is that poo poo?
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Apr 15, 2019 17:43
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duffmensch posted:I’ve got a mini delta and love it for small, quick prints. The small build space definitely sucks but it makes up for it by being basically plug n go (I do bigger prints on my MP10). An added bonus is that it’s super easy to close up the sides for heat retention. Cool. I'm still not 100% sold, as cool as it would be to get a delta I'm tempted to just get a newer cartesian one or some kinda kit with a bigger build volume. Honestly I have no idea how deltas even work so I'm afraid the learning curve would be steep regardless. With regards to getting my old Maker Select V2 running again, can anyone tell me what the difference between a Melzi 2.0 and Melzi 3.5 are? Monoprice apparently uses the latter but RepRap doesn't seem to have any info past 2.0. They're significantly more expensive so if I can live with just a 2.0 somehow that would be cool.
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Apr 15, 2019 17:50
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Just get some of these and stop over-engineering solutions. Is it safe to use solder that you can melt with a heat gun through a plastic tube? Seems like it would flow if any resistance at all is ever introduced
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Apr 15, 2019 17:56
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Guys, the currents in beds are where the printers catch fire. FFS if you're going to do one thing correctly on a printer, it's the heatbed wiring. Replace the wire, or do it at the connector level, or leave the bed alone and replace the other connector.
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Apr 15, 2019 18:14
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Combat Pretzel posted:The hell is that poo poo? The poo poo typically used in marine electronics when you are making connections between a closed piece of electronics and the power supply wires running through the frame (usually with an in-line fuse between your electronics and that connection). bring back old gbs posted:Is it safe to use solder that you can melt with a heat gun through a plastic tube? Seems like it would flow if any resistance at all is ever introduced You actually use a torch/lighter for the solder area, the heat gun is for sealing the shrink tube at either end without melting it away.
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Apr 15, 2019 19:15
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it's a pair of wires that's gonna spend its whole life wiggling back and forth while carrying high current. don't tempt fate by putting splices in the middle of the run. do what motronic said and re-pin the connector, or switch in a matching connector on the board itself or at the very least make sure your splice is on the stationary end of the cable and secure it well with zip ties so it's not getting tugged on
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Apr 15, 2019 20:57
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I'm sure this has been answered before, but is there a recommended app for getting started in 3d modeling? At first, I just want to be able to resize parts to specific dimensions, but it would be nice to have something for when I want to start making my own stuff.
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Apr 15, 2019 21:32
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Funzo posted:I'm sure this has been answered before, but is there a recommended app for getting started in 3d modeling? At first, I just want to be able to resize parts to specific dimensions, but it would be nice to have something for when I want to start making my own stuff. Fusion 360, bay bee
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Apr 15, 2019 21:55
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Funzo posted:I'm sure this has been answered before, but is there a recommended app for getting started in 3d modeling? At first, I just want to be able to resize parts to specific dimensions, but it would be nice to have something for when I want to start making my own stuff. If all you want to do is easy manipulation of objects and simple stuff like chopping into pieces and resizing, use Microsoft's 3D Builder. It makes that sort of thing (including certain things like embossing text, etc) ridiculously easy, but it's not a CAD program. For CAD: sitting down with Fusion 360 and a bunch of free time with youtube tutorials is pretty accessible.
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Apr 15, 2019 22:53
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cephalopods posted:it's a pair of wires that's gonna spend its whole life wiggling back and forth while carrying high current. don't tempt fate by putting splices in the middle of the run. If doing things correctly was a goal this discussion wouldn't be about a Tevo.
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Apr 16, 2019 00:21
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Who makes a good PLA these days? I was looking on Amazon at hatchbox but a lot of the recent reviews are pretty poor.
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Apr 16, 2019 00:23
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I like botfeeder but I never hear anybody mention them. Is botfeeder alright?? I think it's good.
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Apr 16, 2019 00:27
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