|
Colostomy Bag posted:No TPMS? it does, but I don't think you get a warning until like 20psi or something like that. They could have been running around on low pressure with the run flat tires and just worn the outer parts of the tire without really paying attention. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Apr 10, 2019 |
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 23:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
Cut out another inner tierod. This is getting too easy. Not sure what I'm supposed to do with this little packet of soy-sauce it came with. Do I hit the threads with that or pour it in the boot? I have a replacement cv axle so I need to get back in there anyways.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 00:14
|
|
|
Drink it!
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 02:13
|
|
|
Chunjee posted:Cut out another inner tierod. This is getting too easy. Your suposed to apply/pack it around where the inner tie rod rotates and pivots. It helps it last longer. The new one also looks pretty dry in the joint.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 04:12
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:If it were Japanese it would be easy - M6 (10mm head) is almost always the answer. M8 - 1.25, as it turned out. I was pretty sure it was M8, just wasn't sure if it'd be 1.00 or 1.25. Oddly... a 4 pack of nylon lock nuts is 68 cents (Hillman). 3 pack of regular nuts in a sealed plastic bag (Hillman) is $3. Or an 8 pack of regular nuts in a blister pack was under $2 (don't remember the brand, but they're zinc plated). This was at Lowe's, which has a surprisingly decent nuts/bolts selection, so long as you don't mind buying a handful of them if you're dealing with metric (or stepping up to grade 8). I didn't want to gently caress with the nylon ones - this stud goes through a block off plate for the end of the intake cam (some cars that this engine went into had a power steering pump driven by the cam, and probably the earliest Saab versions that this engine is based upon had a distributor there), and said stud also has a welded nut on it to hold the cap. I was afraid I'd overtorque it and pull the threads out of the head (or warp the block off plate). I'm not sure what the torque specs are, but it broke free very easily - so I'm guessing "not much beyond finger tight". I finally found the oil pressure sender too (it was in.... one of my catering bags in the garage.  ). I might need to get a socket for it - I need to see how access is for an open end wrench, also need to see what size socket I need. Anything above around 1" means I get to buy a new tool to use once.  At least the Lisle socket is less than  .The engine is definitely running... very different with the new fuel filter. It stalled 3 times backing out of the garage when cold (~85F outside, probably 80 inside the garage by then), but it still had the evap system disconnected, and I could hear a hissing just before it stalled each time (guessing it was cycling the broken purge valve). Once it warmed up, it seems like the stumbling and hesitation I've had for way too long is gone (I'll have to look at fuel trims to be sure). Amazon dropped off the new evap purge valve mid-day, took all of 3 minutes to throw on. I'll see how it's running tomorrow. I suspect the new fuel filter may have let some of the escaped horses back into the stable. Not many, but some. I should probably reset the PCM, I'm sure the fuel trims are all over the place now that it has an unrestricted fuel filter. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Apr 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 08:41
|
|
|
Yeah definitely do a reset. Also when you have temp vac leak (or temporary-permenant as my dad used to say), those packs of 100 rubber caps in a variety of sizes are very handy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 12:45
|
|
|
Unfortunately, it was hard to cap it - the nipple snapped off of the evap purge solenoid (inside the fuel tank side line), and the hose coming off of the other end of the solenoid connected to the other nipple on the solenoid. The other end of that hose is behind the throttle body, getting to it requires removing the throttle body. And I already practiced a lot of automotive voodoo and did some things I'm ashamed of with the throttle body after I touched it wrong a few months ago. I'm not touching that fucker again for anything unless it outright dies (DBW, and unlike a lot of other GM DBW throttle bodies, the TPS can't be replaced, and there's no re-learn procedure). Thankfully the only things behind it are that evap vacuum line (hard plastic) and the MAP sensor. Filled up today - 20.5 mpg, in a 140hp Saturn coupe.  It's got a weird hiccup at idle with the A/C on now, but otherwise seems to run fine (aside from the smoke screen I greet everyone behind me with when I wind it out in 1st - but that's normal behavior for what's essentially a 1960s Saab tractor motor with this many miles, isn't it?). I'll pull the PCM fuse for a few minutes before I head out tomorrow; I just got it through smog (likely the last one it'll ever pass on its own, and the first one it's passed on its own in at least 2-3 years, going by the inspection history report), so I don't have to worry about that until next May at the latest. Hopefully this car will have been turned into beer cans by then.The only plans left for this car - toss new stereo in (which I plan to keep for the Avalon), replace the sway bar bushings to hopefully get rid of the horrible clunking (if that's not it, it's either control arm bushings or subframe bushings - I can't get any movement from the control arms when prying), get the alignment re-done (it pulls slightly to the left when you let off the gas, no matter what gear or how light the throttle was - and hard to the right under moderate throttle), replace the oil pressure sensor (it's basically a sprinkler right now), and toss new 3rd party headlight housings on (yellowed to hell, already been polished at least once, lots of tiny cracks visible in them - I can't see poo poo at night). Also, tires - they're down to 4/32, and these tires are bad enough in the rain that I can't even keep up with traffic leaving a light, I have to start out in 2nd or 3rd to keep from spinning the tires when it's raining. My old Ion came with Goodyear Eagle RS-As, which were a bit better (not great by any means), and Discount can still get them for pretty cheap (though it'll take a couple of days). It sounds like a lot, but keep in mind I drive 30-40k a year, and there's a good chance I won't have the Avalon for a few months. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Apr 12, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2019 08:41
|
|
|
Bought oil. Meijer had Mobile 1 full synthetic 5 quart jugs for $26 with a $12 rebate per jug. Wife had an Mperks bonus for they came to just under $10 after tax. Just need to grab a not poo poo filter and I can do an oil change in the morning.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2019 06:57
|
|
|
Oh crap, I forgot about the Mobil 1 rebate. I don't need oil yet, but IIRC the rebate is limit 2 jugs; GF's car needs a change, and I'll need one in about a month. Walmart isn't on their authorized retailer list (hasn't been for awhile), but they've always honored rebates with a Walmart receipt for me before. Amazon, OTOH, is a no-go for Mobil 1 rebates.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2019 07:05
|
|
|
I normally just but a 5q and then a 1q to top it off but for the price I couldn't pass it up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2019 07:07
|
|
|
My car holds 5 qts, GF's holds 4.65 qts, and both take 5w30. Hers has no oil leaks or oil consumption issues and has never needed topping off between changes, so I'll just toss the extra .35 qt into my car. Usually have to add ~2 quarts between (7-9k) changes on mine anyway. I have a couple of Fram Pro Synthetic filters for my car that I got on wholesaler closeout on Rockauto for my car (15k mile filter, and my car uses a cartridge). I should probably get a couple of good filters for her car, though she drives <8k/year. She's been running conventional up until now, I think once switched to synthetic it'll just be more of a "change it every 6 months" thing. It should be even with conventional with how little she drives, but she still thinks conventional is only good for 3k. Upside: The filter is a little different on her car vs the 1MZ-FE in the Avalon that I'll have soonish, but it sounds like the 1MZ-FE Avalon filter fits the 1ZZ-FE fine - the 1MZ filter is slightly larger around and a bit longer, but going by bobistheoilguy forums, the gasket still seals fine on the block, and gives a little extra capacity and filtration. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Apr 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2019 07:15
|
|
|
 ~300,000 miles on the VQ35 RevUp in my '06 Infiniti G35. Keeping up with maintenance is key, my dudes. Devyl fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Apr 14, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 02:17
|
|
|
I had service records going back to mile 20 on my old tsx, it only had 100k, and the head looked way, way worse. I'm kind of jealous
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 02:35
|
|
|
Towed the datsun to work and stuffed the engine in it for the first time. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 04:16
|
|
|
Swapped in a newer stereo. Wanted something that could support anything besides SBC for Bluetooth streaming; when I put a new stereo in my GF's car (low end Kenwood), I noticed "HD Audio" was an option under BT settings for the connection on my phone, and it really made a big difference - I dare say her stock Toyota full range speakers made streaming audio sound a lot better than the Polk coaxials in my car. I've also really needed (for work) something that can properly support 2 phones at once - right now, I have to pull over anytime my work phone rings. The new stereo supports pairing to 2 phones at once, and I verified it can receive calls from either phone without switching anything. Also, it supports aptX, which... yeah, I know, "what's the use of lossless audio in a car?!?", it's still a huge upgrade over my SBC-only Pioneer. It threw me a few curveballs. #1, no dimmer wire, and unlike the much lower end model I put in GF's car, you can't set a time for it to auto dim (unless I just haven't found the setting yet). #2, the dual USB inputs... are via permanently attached cables.   I'm using one to power the BTLE beacon that trips my mileage logger to start recording (previously it was plugged into a USB power supply in the socket in the back seat), but the cables are shoved up into the dash (basically a few inches away from where my work phone normally sits). #3, the mic is a 3.5mm input. I was hoping to reuse the existing 2.5mm mic. I didn't feel like pulling the new mic all the way to the top of the A pillar (again); it picks up the wind noise from the sunroof and door there anyway. Traction control is an option that I've only seen on the pretty-drat-rare 2.4 model; there's just a blank plate where the TC switch would be. Blank plate, meet drill. The factory OnStar/built in phone mic is on the bottom of the mirror - this puts it about a foot below the factory mic. My dash has a  Devyl posted:
My nearly 200k lovely Ecotec didn't look much worse; I have some scoring on one cam lobe, but it doesn't catch a fingernail. Too bad the engine will outlive the car by a lot. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 09:50
|
|
|
Feeling a bit dumb for not noticing that the brake fluid reservoir was way down on fluid. In retrospect shifting has been getting progressively harder like as if the clutch was sticking a bit. It kinda dawned on me when I was shifting during braking, and it was easier to shift into gear. Not that it's hard, but not as smooth as it was ~6 months ago. Topped it up and it got better. Still not as smooth as I remember it though. Maybe the brake fluid has gone bad. Going to replace it when it (hopefully) fit the Dodge Dart clutch delay valve delete. I loving hate delay valves. At least when they are implemented poorly.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 11:34
|
|
|
Brake or clutch fluid (assuming shared reservoir?) doesn't really disappear on it's own unless your brake pads are really worn or it's leaking. I've never had to top off brake fluid for worn pads though either so you might want to investigate a little further...
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 12:14
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Brake or clutch fluid (assuming shared reservoir?) doesn't really disappear on it's own unless your brake pads are really worn or it's leaking. I've never had to top off brake fluid for worn pads though either so you might want to investigate a little further... Yeah shared reservoir. Brakes are ~1 year old (PO had them swapped) and I didn't notice worn pads or leaks from the brakes (or under the car) when I last swapped wheels. Definitely going to investigate further. I wouldn't be surprised if the master clutch cylinder is leaking, that might explain how the brakes help build pressure. Known problem on the Dodge Darts with the same engine and transmission. If it's the slave cylinder, I gotta remove the transmission. At that point I might as well do the clutch and flywheel. Good times! Edit: Could actually just be the the whoever the PO did the brake job with did not refill the reservoir properly after bleeding the brakes and there's old fluid in there that gone worse during winter. I have to admit I forgot to check it when buying the car. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Apr 14, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 12:35
|
|
|
Noticed something REALLY loving annoying with the new Kenwood. It has two bright LEDs... 1 for each phone. If both phones aren't in the car, one of them will keep flashing for about 10 seconds every minute or so for the entire drive. I think it may have timed out after like 10 or 15 minutes, but it's annoying as hell. Usually I do keep both phones on me, but I had no reason to have my work phone on me late tonight. GF's Kenwood does the same (it supports 2 phones, but you have to manually switch between them in the settings), but it's just an icon on the LCD on hers, so not nearly as distracting.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 09:27
|
|
|
A bit ghetto, but perhaps use a same color marker to darken the LEDs so you can only see it when you actively look at it? I'm basing this on that I'm visualizing 2 round sunk in LEDs.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 12:21
|
|
|
Very bad pic, but... I'd need a sliver of tint to darken them significantly. Which would then trigger my OCD, because "oh god there's something stuck to the face, MUST PEEL IT". Which would turn into tint across the whole thing... except if it's not perfect... OH GOD MUST PEEL IT!!!111!1! You get the idea. 95% of the time, both phones are on me. I was expecting last night's trip to be a quick jaunt to the post office.... not a trip to 6 post offices in 4 cities in a vain attempt to find one working self service kiosk. Just looking at that pic and seeing the gouge in the mounting kit is triggering me, but that mounting kit has held 3 different stereos across 2 different cars. The dust on the brand new stereo is bugging me a lot more..... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Apr 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 12:47
|
|
|
STR posted:Oh crap, I forgot about the Mobil 1 rebate. I don't need oil yet, but IIRC the rebate is limit 2 jugs; GF's car needs a change, and I'll need one in about a month. The limit this round is 4 jugs per household. Might only run once this year instead of the usual two times.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 13:14
|
|
|
I can finally afford to be the ricer I wanted to be in High School. It's the best! Wickerbill and diffuser installed. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 14:25
|
|
|
willroc7 posted:The limit this round is 4 jugs per household. Might only run once this year instead of the usual two times. I'll probably grab 3, then. I won't go through 4 this year. I push my car to 8-9k on Mobil 1 (I just go by the GM oil life monitor), and it's pretty drat clean under the valve cover. GF's car I won't push past 9 months since it's supposedly a sludge maker (1ZZ-FE, so not entirely sure on that) and usually only sees 5 miles a day. Mom's car isn't allowed to go past 5k (1MZ-FE, if you look in the dictionary for "sludge maker", you find her engine). I'm supposedly getting the 1MZ Avalon sometime in the next couple of months, so the next oil change on the Saturn will very likely be its last while I own it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Apr 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 16:53
|
|
|
It's pretty interesting how different the US and much of Europe is when it comes to oil changes. Here in Europe we have 18k mile oil change intervals (or longer) and pretty much everyone follows them (or push it) without caring.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 17:38
|
|
|
Found a little surprise on the inner sidewall of a tire on the A8L.  She's dead, Jim. I'm pretty sure it's been riding like this for around 3k miles.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 17:48
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:It's pretty interesting how different the US and much of Europe is when it comes to oil changes. Here in Europe we have 18k mile oil change intervals (or longer) and pretty much everyone follows them (or push it) without caring. That's because long service intervals have become a marketing point and cars aren't expected to last as long in Europe.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 20:27
|
|
|
modern cars are fine with long oil change intervals
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 21:59
|
|
|
Devyl posted:
Dang impressive
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 22:19
|
|
|
First day off work in a bit so got to finally start working on my hatch! Took my front suspension off, got K tuned front upper and lower coming and gonna prob replace everything else with new oem cept maybe the axles cuz everythings pretty rusty.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 22:57
|
|
|
STR posted:Noticed something REALLY loving annoying with the new Kenwood. The Alpine I put in my Vibe has a similar annoyance.  See the signal strength and battery indicator in the middle? I specifically picked a head unit with a signal strength indicator as a nice to have feature. Turns out it's not a real indictor at all. It has two states. One like in the picture indicates you have over 50% signal strength. Below that, it looks the same, but blinks. How loving annoying is that? At least the battery indicator has 3 states, full like is shown, 50% which is half full, and empty, which is somewhere between 0 and 25%.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 03:11
|
|
|
Took the day off and built a new motor for my FD. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 05:27
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Turns out it's not a real indictor at all. It has two states. One like in the picture indicates you have over 50% signal strength. Below that, it looks the same, but blinks. How loving annoying is that? That would have me returning that poo poo so quick. My phone has a pretty terrible antenna, it's very rare when it actually has more than 1-2 bars.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 05:36
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Took the day off and built a new motor for my FD. I love this.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 05:40
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Took the day off and built a new motor for my FD. Better than porn. Well most porn.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 13:30
|
|
C-Bangin' it
|
Flat tire, big loving screw dead center in the tread, and a nail close to the sidewall. Well poo poo. I was worried Discount wouldn't patch it, since it was almost to the wear bars (also the nail close to the side). I was right. I went ahead and got the cheapest "better" tire they had in stock, Road Hugger GTP - store brand tire, and I'd talked to them about these tires a month or two ago. They told me who made them at the time, but drat if I can remember now (it was a company I like though). Going back Thursday to get a matching one for the other back wheel, then 2 more for the front once those are worn past 4/32 (one was 5/32, other was 6/32... a few burnouts should take care of that). Also need to get a wheel, one of mine has been slightly bent since I got the car. gently caress Barum Brillantis tires, btw. Worn out in about 25k, and if someone sneezes on the road you're going to lose all traction. I just want a tire that doesn't think the road is a slip n slide anytime it rains.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 05:26
|
|
|
Looks like maybe Kumho makes them? Does that ring a bell?
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 14:05
|
|
|
I want to say it was Kumho or Cooper, so yeah you're probably right on that. My little bit of googling suggested a few different companies depending on which line, I didn't find anything definitive on the GTP though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 14:36
|
|
|
Kumho makes some of their other private label tires (the Pathfinder S AT is literally an older Kumho design, tread pattern and all, with a different name on the sidewall) so that would make sense.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 14:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
So yeah, since we have some nasty storms coming in, and I'm working all night, I borrowed the money from GF to get the other rear tire replaced. Took 2 loving hours  and I got the last one they had on hand. I'll have to call around when I do the fronts in a couple of weeks. But I really hate having mismatched tires on an axle, especially when there's some nasty weather predicted tonight.While I was there I asked them who makes Road Hugger. At the moment, the GTP (and a couple of others) are discontinued Kumho designs, the rest are Nitto. Not bad for a $72 tire. There's a very noticeable difference in road noise vs the lovely Barums I had on there (the Road Huggers are a lot quieter) Also told GF to park in the garage tonight instead of me. I normally take it (black on black car + sunroof + Texas sun, even this early in the year, gets brutal), but her deductible is $750. Mine is $250. I'm going to be driving during the worst of it anyway. If the storms wind up being worst case, I'd rather we be down 1 car instead of both (and I'd rather that 1 car be the 88k Toyota instead of the 173k Saturn). Parking here sucks at night, I'll probably wind up having to park at the far edge of the property (which has a lot of trees... and it's supposed to storm all night  ).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 19:59
|
|