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Air tools are usually npt so they should be fine.
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Apr 18, 2019 19:52
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MrOnBicycle posted:I put thread tape on my air tool fittings so they don't leak air and on my foam gun fitting so it doesn't leak water. The problem with tape on hydraulics is people put on too much and overhangs the threads and small pieces can get into the system. Hydraulic valves in particular do not like teflon tape and can easily hang up a spool. This stuff is not exactly high precision equipment, but some servo valves can be worth $thousands$ per and some tape in the system will gently caress it up. MrOnBicycle posted:I have to confess that I haven't got a clue what NPT and JIC fittings are and how they affect stuff. 35kg (I checked
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Apr 18, 2019 19:52
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) is hefty, but as you say you can leave then close together if using regularly. . I'm thinking some hooks on each side of the wall to store when needed.
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Cat Hatter posted:Air tools are usually npt so they should be fine. I have never had an air tool fitting seal up without any sort of sealant on the threads. Are air tool fittings actually tapered, or are they national pipe straight?
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Apr 18, 2019 19:58
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I've not seen tools that aren't tapered, or if I have, rarely. However, air equipment (cylinders, valves, controls, etc) are commonly straight.
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Apr 18, 2019 20:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have never had an air tool fitting seal up without any sort of sealant on the threads. Are air tool fittings actually tapered, or are they national pipe straight? It doesn't matter. Inexpensive NPT tapered thread don't seal without sealant or tape. Even if they do, it's wise to put sealant or tape on them to limit corrosion or galling. NPS need sealant. I prefer liquid sealant (Loctite 542 or 569) over tape.
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Apr 18, 2019 21:01
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slidebite posted:Probably not. In my experience most air tools still use tapered pipe threads for 90% of them. But like has been said, if it's a cone/seat or uses a seal, no, you don't need nor should use thread tape. Drive the 996 onto ramps for more clearance over the quickjack! What could go wrong?
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Apr 18, 2019 22:14
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I've got the 5000 lb Quickjack. I had an... interesting experience when I bought it. Some missing parts on delivery, the pump that they sent me didn't work initially, (I found a faulty relay and fixed it the day after I got it.) Customer service sent me all of the missing parts and an additional pump. Need a spare anyone? (They blamed the shipper/that the packaging that the pump and accessories box was ripped for the missing parts) I did a complate rear subframe remove/repair/replace, and clutch job on my E46 M3, and never once had any fear or uncertainty that it was going to collapse or anything, and had WAY more room (as well as peace of mind) than working on maximally extended jackstands. Leaving it on the physical locks instead of the hydraulic cylinders makes it really rock solid. I leave my ramps disconnected from the pump and lines, in the middle of my "toy" car garage space, and drive over them, between the wheels for storage. They are great for lifting lowered/performance cars, and the working height is pretty impressive, if you are like me, and are unable to physically fit a two post lift in the garage space. Moving them around is a bit of a pain, but as others have said, but I'd absolutely buy it again.
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Apr 19, 2019 03:13
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Cool. Learn something new everyday. MrDeSaussure posted:I've got the 5000 lb Quickjack. I had an... interesting experience when I bought it. Some missing parts on delivery, the pump that they sent me didn't work initially, (I found a faulty relay and fixed it the day after I got it.) Customer service sent me all of the missing parts and an additional pump. Need a spare anyone? (They blamed the shipper/that the packaging that the pump and accessories box was ripped for the missing parts) Thanks for the input, especially about being able to do a clutch job. Really seems versatile enough.  Zorak of Michigan posted:Drive the 996 onto ramps for more clearance over the quickjack! What could go wrong? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 07:24
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Anyone have a recommendation for an light-duty electric chainsaw? Li-ion or Li-po optional, corded is fine though. I’d like it to be pole-able for light tree trimming as well, if that’s a thing.
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Apr 22, 2019 15:19
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Recommendations on reasonably priced 3/8" torque wrenches, covering the 10-80 or 100ft-lb range? I've got a pair of Craftsman that do 25-250 in-lbs and 25-150 ft-lbs, and a Tekton that goes up to 250 ft-lbs. I find myself in the gap of the smaller two a lot, where the smaller is the right size to get into the space, but the bigger one has the torque value I need (30-40 ft-lbs). I like the micrometer-style Craftsmans (even though the printing on the plastic parts is mostly worn off, making them hard to read) and I'm not a huge fan of the Tekton because of the screw at the bottom of the handle to lock the torque setting. Are the Gear Wrench any good? I'd prefer to stay under $100, but eventually I'd be replacing the two Craftsman wrenches, so I'm trying to find something with a similar feel.
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Apr 22, 2019 16:35
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MrYenko posted:Anyone have a recommendation for an light-duty electric chainsaw? Li-ion or Li-po optional, corded is fine though. I have the ryobi 40 volt chainsaw, and it does a perfect job for a small chainsaw. I took down a 10" diameter tree with it with no problems. Saw: https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/40v-14-in-chain-saw There's a pole saw they sell that uses the same battery if you want to go that route: https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/40v-8in-pole-saw I also have the weed wacker, which is why I went that route in the first place.
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Apr 22, 2019 16:47
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MrYenko posted:Anyone have a recommendation for an light-duty electric chainsaw? Li-ion or Li-po optional, corded is fine though. I have a corded electric chainsaw that is also a pole saw (I used to sell them too). If at all possible, get a dedicated pole saw. The chainsaw on a stick concept works well enough but is a huge pain to muscle all that weight around while it has ~10ft of leverage working against you. Aside from that, almost all corded chainsaws are fine so long as they don't have a manual chain oiler (basically a primer bulb on the oil cap) and I prefer a standard chain tensioner that uses a scrench to the tool-less type as they tend to have fewer problems. Everything I just said applies to battery power as well, but look at the rest to the battery ecosystem. Chainsaws eat batteries quickly so don't get anything that runs off a drill battery. If you really only need something light duty, something like a Kobalt 40v would be fine (I have their 80v and it won a race against my 18in Poulan Pro gas saw, but it's probably more than you're looking for).
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Apr 22, 2019 17:40
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Not cheap, but Milwaukee's M18 chainsaw is supposedly the bees knees coming from the people who have used them.
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Apr 22, 2019 18:57
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PitViper posted:Recommendations on reasonably priced 3/8" torque wrenches, covering the 10-80 or 100ft-lb range? I've got a pair of Craftsman that do 25-250 in-lbs and 25-150 ft-lbs, and a Tekton that goes up to 250 ft-lbs. I find myself in the gap of the smaller two a lot, where the smaller is the right size to get into the space, but the bigger one has the torque value I need (30-40 ft-lbs). Go and check out your local sears if you have one. There are alot closing this upcoming weekend and have 40% off tools.
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Apr 23, 2019 02:16
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I've got all three and they're okay. Waaaay too much plastic on them including the twist lock that prevents you from changing the torque while using it. Mine broke almost immediately. I'd honestly buy a harbor freight if I could do it again.
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Apr 23, 2019 02:21
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um excuse me posted:I've got all three and they're okay. Waaaay too much plastic on them including the twist lock that prevents you from changing the torque while using it. Mine broke almost immediately. I'd honestly buy a harbor freight if I could do it again. I've used the harbor freight torque wrenches. I know they're supposed to be a great value for the money, but they felt like the ratchet mechanism was carved out of a couple of rocks. And that's what heppened to mine, my 1/2" Craftsman the lock collar for the adjuster is broken and very random as to whether it's locked or not, and my 3/8" in-lbs one is almost impossible to quickly read the setting because all the lettering wore off the plastic collar. And what local Sears? The last two closed in March. I'm not even sure if there's one left within a couple hundred miles. https://www.mprnews.org/story/2018/12/28/sears-store-closures-mall-of-america-location
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Apr 23, 2019 03:18
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I need assistance on finding a tool or bit or something in order to drill a threaded sleeve. I'm not sure exactly what I am looking for in the vast sea of tools and bits. A product link would be most gracious.
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Apr 23, 2019 18:16
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This is what lathes are for. E: Or maybe you just want a tap? Idk, try being less vague. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Apr 23, 2019 |
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Apr 23, 2019 18:41
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drilling a threaded sleeve... sounds like you want a... drill?  Maybe explain what you're trying to do, ideally with a couple of photos.
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Apr 23, 2019 19:30
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Bought a spoiler replica from China that has threaded holes on the two outer fins that screws into the main portion of the spoiler. However, being from China the screw holes are not where they are supposed to be making the spoiler not fit. I have no idea what I am looking for at Home Depot. edit: 
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Apr 23, 2019 20:36
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Is it metal/structural, i.e. the screws go right into the material of the spoiler? If so you can probably just drill holes wherever and use a cheap tap and die set to tap threads in the hole: https://www.harborfreight.com/40-pc-carbon-steel-metric-tap-and-die-set-62832.html You'll need to measure exactly the diameter and thread size of the screws that are going into it to use the right size tap. Or the cheapo solution, just crank self tapping sheet metal screws right into that thing (don't do this if you actually care about it or the car it's attached to).
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Apr 23, 2019 20:54
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Etrips posted:Bought a spoiler replica from China that has threaded holes on the two outer fins that screws into the main portion of the spoiler. However, being from China the screw holes are not where they are supposed to be making the spoiler not fit. I have no idea what I am looking for at Home Depot. You're looking for rivnuts.
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Apr 23, 2019 21:47
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Helicoils?
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Apr 23, 2019 22:48
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meatpimp posted:You're looking for rivnuts. Assuming it's hollow, this is the answer. If it's not hollow it might split?
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Apr 23, 2019 23:16
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Right, so it has threaded holes, but in the wrong place. What is it? Plastic? Fibreglass? Can you show us how it's meant to go together with the other pieces? If it's solid, you can probably just drill and tap new ones in it where you need them, but - if the new holes are too close to the old ones to do this without breaking into the existing hole and/or - if the structure is hollow where you need the holes and only solid where the original ones are then you may be better with a threaded insert. A rivnut should work, but you'd need to use the type (and install it such) that you get a flush surface, if that's a requirement. You could also just bond in a suitable nut or something. A metal strip with the threaded holes appropriately spaced that you bond in may be the best solution, as compared to a rivnut or other individual option for each hole, it'll be more durable when it comes to not twisting out the structure and spreading the load.
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Apr 23, 2019 23:22
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mod sassinator posted:Is it metal/structural, i.e. the screws go right into the material of the spoiler? I guess it is hard to see from the picture, but there is a threaded sleeve or something inside the fin. edit: Yes the piece is hollow. edit2: InitialDave posted:Right, so it has threaded holes, but in the wrong place. What is it? Plastic? Fibreglass? Can you show us how it's meant to go together with the other pieces? I'm not exactly sure what it is made of exactly. It's supposedly "carbon fiber" but with how cheap it is, there is no way that it is actually that. This is it put together, just pointed down. 
Etrips fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Apr 23, 2019 |
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Apr 23, 2019 23:24
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Did you try swapping ends? Maybe they just seem like they're in the wrong place because you've got them backward.
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Apr 24, 2019 00:29
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Might it be easier to redrill the flange on the carbon piece to match the threaded holes?
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Apr 24, 2019 00:32
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InitialDave posted:Might it be easier to redrill the flange on the carbon piece to match the threaded holes? That... might actually not be a bad idea. Krakkles posted:Did you try swapping ends? Maybe they just seem like they're in the wrong place because you've got them backward. A valid pointer, but I checked multiple times making sure to match other pictures online with it on to make sure it was in the right orientation.
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Apr 24, 2019 01:25
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I feel the urge to publicly proclaim my passionate love for my 18V Makita rotary saw. Pilfered a bunch of pine cutoffs from our house project and in 10 minutes had them cut up in firewood-sized bites, in our parking lot. No cables, no fuss. And while I'm at it, my cordless impact performed flawlessly during yesterday's rear brake job.
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Apr 24, 2019 07:57
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bolind posted:I feel the urge to publicly proclaim my passionate love for my 18V Makita rotary saw. Pilfered a bunch of pine cutoffs from our house project and in 10 minutes had them cut up in firewood-sized bites, in our parking lot. No cables, no fuss. (It's the heated hoodie, it'll always be the heated hoodie. Though the Hackzall is legend.)
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Apr 24, 2019 08:00
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Krakkles posted:I'm like this with my Milwaukee stuff. Every new project is a potential excuse to get a new Milwaukee tool, and except the cordless vacuum (if you get one, get the M18, the M12 sucks ... or, rather, doesn't), every single one is basically my favorite thing ever. Seriously, I'm sure I annoy my wife by proclaiming one of the three different tools she got me is successively "the best gift ever". The toolbox-style m18 vacuum is really great. My wife steals it constantly.
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Apr 24, 2019 08:16
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Since we're proclaiming our power tool loves, I am fond of my black and yellows. Last year we bought a countertop from Ikea for a kitchen reno and cut it to length with the circular saw in the parking lot over two shopping buggies, to haul home in our hatchback.
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Apr 24, 2019 12:42
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Milwaukee has the best heated coats, and that’s what matters most. (It’s easy to run their coats on any twelve-volt battery, though. They have 2.1 mm plugs.)
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Apr 24, 2019 12:56
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My father-in-law gave me a Lowe’s gift card and I need a new shop vac. Any recs? Less than $100 preferably.
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Apr 25, 2019 00:02
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Uthor posted:Random stupid question: I'm looking if it possible to integrate some tool batteries to power a device for work. Something to snap the batteries into, draw the power, snap out for recharge. It'd be turning a DC motor. A bit late to this chat, but I actually use the older Ryobi One flashlight to do this exact thing. I use it to power a provisioning radio for fixed wireless Internet stuff. I just come off the battery terminals into a 5A fuse and an RJ45 (passive PoE into the provisioning tool). Given its flexibility and ridiculous current outputs, I've powered entire communications sites with it for about an hour on the 4aH Plus battery.
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Apr 25, 2019 00:30
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We ended up deciding that instead of driving a motor with a battery, just including a Milwaukee drill in our quote and using that to drive the gearbox directly. Way cheaper than spending the time to design an electrical system.
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Apr 25, 2019 00:47
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El Jebus posted:My father-in-law gave me a Lowe’s gift card and I need a new shop vac. Any recs? Less than $100 preferably. I'd look at this guy: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-14-Gallon-5-5-HP-Shop-Vacuum/1000519357 I've had a similar unit for about a decade (got it during that relatively brief period when Shop Vac brand vacuums were blue) and it hasn't given me any trouble. Don't get anything with a hose smaller than 2.5in unless you only plan on detailing cars and don't get one that doubles as a leaf blower. Lowe's sells Craftsman wet/dry vacs now as well but I can't speak to their quality.
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Apr 25, 2019 19:53
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Thanks, that looks about right. Probably gonna wait for memorial day sales if I can hold out.
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Apr 25, 2019 20:25
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I have a torque wrench I bought for my lug nuts years ago but it's really long and has a range of 50-250 ft lbs. I need something smaller and with a lower range and I am not sure which would be more useful. My choices are between one that does 20-100 ft lbs and another that does 40-200 inch lbs. Or if there is a better full range option I should be aware of, I am all ears.
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Apr 25, 2019 21:24
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