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Which brand of bodyfill are you all using for minor filling jobs like this one: I've grinded off all of the rust in these tiny little spots. My plan is to apply some bodyfill, sand it, then touch up paint + clearcoat. I've heard that Bondo is pretty terrible. I've heard good things about 3M Premium filler (but am having a bitch of a time finding it locally) and Evercoat. melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 18, 2019 |
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Apr 18, 2019 18:03
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Kibbles n Shits posted:I recently bought a used 2015 Mazda 3i and I'm being recommended a fuel induction service due to the mileage (70k) and the fact that it is a direct injection motor. I understand carbon buildup on the valves is an issue with direct injection, but would BG or any product really do a drat thing about it? Is it a Skyactiv-equipped 3? I think in 2015 you could still get the port-injected engine too, so make sure you actually have the DI version first. As far as "does spraying BG poo poo into the intake tube do anything" - somewhat doubtful. From personal experience those deposits are loving tough. I'm not aware of any guaranteed method to properly clean that, that doesn't involve pulling the intake manifold and working on the valves directly.
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Apr 18, 2019 18:08
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brand engager posted:It's wishful thinking but I was really hoping the noise was the clutch dragging or something. That throwout bearing what came to mind when I initially heard noise, but then it only showing up while it's not in neutral confused me. Also, I've been replacing the master cylinder almost every year (I think I've gone 2 years since the last one) because the thing sucks and leaks starts leaking internally during the summer one year out from the last replacement. I've got the type of throwout where the slave cylinder is mounted externally and pushes on a fork, so I went ahead and replaced that cylinder a few years ago too. Those dont seem to start leaking like the master cylinder does though. I had to take it to a few shops to find one that would look at it, and then they said it's too complicated for them to do the clutch there. They also said it has a really bad oil leak. It hasnt been leaking at all, so for a leak to show up at the same time makes me think the transmission might have blown up and caused the issues I've been having. It's pouring down raining so I cant check the fluids right now, and I'm definitely not driving it anywhere if it's about to trash itself.
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Apr 18, 2019 18:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is it a Skyactiv-equipped 3? I think in 2015 you could still get the port-injected engine too, so make sure you actually have the DI version first. I'm not sure to what extent the valves are dirty but it's being recommended more as a preventive measure rather than a fix for a definite problem. Even still I have real doubts about the efficacy of those types of cleaners, even for just light cleanup. I'm wondering if I should just wait until 100k and have them cleaned the hard way, if needed.
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Apr 18, 2019 19:08
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I would probably do the same in your shoes, or just do the deep cleaning now. On the next DI car I get, if I can't get one with both port and direct injection, I'm very tempted to try running a bottle of cleaner through the intake on every oil change. Seems like that might have a shot at reducing the buildup, but not a single treatment after 70k.
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Apr 18, 2019 19:55
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More GMT800 questions -- 2005 Escalade. There has always been a tremendous shudder when hitting big diagonal expansion joints/bumps/etc. The suspension itself is fine, everything is tight and operates normally in all conditions... except that diagonal joint. In that case, it feels like the whole front of the truck is going to come off. But then, everything is fine again, nice and smooth. I saw that steering shaft issues were common, so I swapped out the bearing and intermediate shaft. That improved the steering a ton, but did nothing for this huge shudder. It feels like some main front end body mount or something... is this a common issue? I can't find anyone talking about the same problem, but I'm sure I"\'m just looking in the wrong place...
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Apr 18, 2019 21:09
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EVERYWHERE 
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would probably do the same in your shoes, or just do the deep cleaning now. The machine is expensive, but run-rite is supposed to work pretty well for DI. The garage I occasionally do work at has one so I only have to buy consumables, which helps a lot.
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Apr 19, 2019 15:21
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meatpimp posted:More GMT800 questions -- 2005 Escalade. There has always been a tremendous shudder when hitting big diagonal expansion joints/bumps/etc. The suspension itself is fine, everything is tight and operates normally in all conditions... except that diagonal joint. In that case, it feels like the whole front of the truck is going to come off. But then, everything is fine again, nice and smooth. Could it be related to the sway bar? Considering how a diagonal bump affects one wheel at a time on opposite sides rather than both at once.
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Apr 19, 2019 15:49
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StormDrain posted:Could it be related to the sway bar? Considering how a diagonal bump affects one wheel at a time on opposite sides rather than both at once. No, it's not any type of suspension noise, it's an impact you feel like you've been in an accident. That's not hyperbolic, it hits that hard... and it only happens maybe twice in 100 miles of freeway driving, but man, that rattles you when you're driving. Vehicle history is clean, never wrecked, never any major repairs, most suspension components are original, but the transmission guy was raving about how good everything is underneath... it's a weird one, but those are the types of problems that gravitate to me. 
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Apr 19, 2019 16:51
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Control arm bushings? Wheel bearings? I mean I'd expect both of those to cause more problems than that, but...
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Apr 19, 2019 16:58
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Is there an online retailer where I can buy shims of various sizes? Trying to get my transmission into spec. I see grainger sells shims but you have to buy them in packs of 20 and i really only need one or two of a few different sizes
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Apr 19, 2019 17:44
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melon cat posted:Which brand of bodyfill are you all using for minor filling jobs like this one: Is that around a door frame? That looks awfully small. My recommendation would be to just get a tube of touch up paint, and hit it with that every day for a week or two (unless its raining) until the little divot is filled in. That being said, its hard to tell because the picture is so zoomed the gently caress in. How big is the actual spot we're looking at? My own question: 2009 Corolla, 2.4l manual trans. Just switched back to my summer tires, and my TPMS warning light has gone off, or rather didn't go off once I put the summer rims back on. Is there any way that I can tell which sensor is the problem? Would storing the rims/tires all winter with the air out of them (got new tires last week) have anything to do with it?
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Apr 19, 2019 17:58
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wesleywillis posted:Is that around a door frame? That looks awfully small. Not big at all. No larger than a thumbnail. There are several spots like this all around my car (<3 living in salt country). But ever since I've left the exposed steel bare and open while searching for a body fill a bit more surface rust has set it. So I'll be grinding a bit more metal off. Will layered-up touch up paint retain its shape over changing weather extremes or will it eventually become a bumpy mess?
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Apr 19, 2019 18:13
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melon cat posted:Not big at all. No larger than a thumbnail. There are several spots like this all around my car (<3 living in salt country). But ever since I've left the exposed steel bare and open while searching for a body fill a bit more surface rust has set it. So I'll be grinding a bit more metal off. Will layered-up touch up paint retain its shape over changing weather extremes or will it eventually become a bumpy mess? You're from the Toronto area iirc. Me too. Its supposed to rain until Sunday... Ummmm.... I think it depends on how much you do it. in my experience, thin coats of touch up paint are better than big globs of the poo poo. I've got a paint "pen" for my Corolla, and I basically dab it on the spots when I need to touch something up. If its chipped right down to metal, I'll dab, let it sit for an hour, dab again, and so on. Bigger spots that take several dabs, I'll wait a day(ish) in between before putting another layer on. It can also depend on where the spot is, on a horizontal surface, its not so bad. On vertical edge of a door, the paint will want to run down so you need to be more careful and patient. I'm not an expert and not all of my paint chip repairs are flawless. If you post your query in the detailing thread, you might get someone with more skill/experience that can give you a better answer.
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Apr 19, 2019 18:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:Control arm bushings? Could be this, it only happens when the front end gets unloaded and shaken. Wheel bearings are fine... I'll look into the control arm bushings...
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Apr 19, 2019 18:35
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melon cat posted:Not big at all. No larger than a thumbnail. There are several spots like this all around my car (<3 living in salt country). But ever since I've left the exposed steel bare and open while searching for a body fill a bit more surface rust has set it. So I'll be grinding a bit more metal off. Will layered-up touch up paint retain its shape over changing weather extremes or will it eventually become a bumpy mess? Honestly if you've already sanded I would get a tube of primer and do a layer of that, then a layer of touch up. Body fill on an edge like that is not going to be much help, make it look worse.
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Apr 19, 2019 18:40
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Yeah, unless you have deep pitting on the rust, I wouldn't do any more than sand it down and prime it.
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Apr 19, 2019 18:45
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Cool dudes. Primer + touch-up paint layers it is, then. I just thought that bodyfill was needed for the touch-up paint to properly "bite" into and take proper hold.
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Apr 19, 2019 19:13
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ROFLburger posted:Is there an online retailer where I can buy shims of various sizes? Trying to get my transmission into spec. What shape, how thick? McMaster sells shim stock. A roll of it is like $20 and you can cut it with scissors. You can get custom shims from them, but they're expensive.
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Apr 19, 2019 19:58
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Harbor Freight feeler gauges are always a quick fix, if they don't specifically need to be larger than that.
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Apr 19, 2019 21:20
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So, this morning I attempted to change the drum brake shoes on my 2010 Honda civic. Everything was going fine, until I forgot to hold the brake cylinder in while I was putting the shoes back on and one side of the cylinder popped out. The part wasn't damaged, and I managed to get it back on pretty quick and re-seat the gasket, but of course, now there's air in the cylinder and the brake pedal is spongy. I know I need to bleed the brake cylinder, but I'm here by myself right now. Do I absolutely need a second person to pump the brakes to bleed the air out, or is there a way I can do this by myself?
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Apr 20, 2019 16:28
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neogeo0823 posted:So, this morning I attempted to change the drum brake shoes on my 2010 Honda civic. Everything was going fine, until I forgot to hold the brake cylinder in while I was putting the shoes back on and one side of the cylinder popped out. The part wasn't damaged, and I managed to get it back on pretty quick and re-seat the gasket, but of course, now there's air in the cylinder and the brake pedal is spongy. I know I need to bleed the brake cylinder, but I'm here by myself right now. Do I absolutely need a second person to pump the brakes to bleed the air out, or is there a way I can do this by myself? There are devices you can buy to do it yourself. Alternatively, you could wedge something heavy against the brake pedal, then go crack the bleeder valve open until the fluid is done flowing out, and retighten the valve. Then lift the weight off the brake so the cylinder can refill, and repeat until the air is out.
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Apr 20, 2019 16:32
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You can use those one man bleeder kits (or a DIY equivalent with some vinyl tube and a soda bottle) but the trick is making sure the vinyl tube is perfectly air tight around the bleeder. Sometimes a little grease helps with that, but I've never had a lot of luck with them. A set of speed bleeders is best for one man bleeding, or gravity bleeding if you're not in a hurry.
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Apr 20, 2019 16:37
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melon cat posted:Cool dudes. Primer + touch-up paint layers it is, then. I just thought that bodyfill was needed for the touch-up paint to properly "bite" into and take proper hold. That’s what the primer is for. Body fillers generally and Bondo specifically get a bad rap because 90% of the time, they’re used for things they shouldn’t be used for. When used as intended (as a skim coat to conceal slight imperfections in straightened and otherwise-undamaged panels,) they’re great products. Any time filling a hole or a pocket is called for, you should be looking at an additive metal process like body lead or similar. Welding and grinding if it’s severe enough to warrant it.
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Apr 20, 2019 16:37
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2009 Corolla, 2.4l manual trans. Just switched back to my summer tires, and my TPMS warning light has gone off, or rather didn't go off once I put the summer rims back on. Is there any way that I can tell which sensor is the problem? Would storing the rims/tires all winter with the air out of them (got new tires last week) have anything to do with it?
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Apr 20, 2019 21:56
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Have you driven on them? My VW would take a few miles before realizing the sensors are back on the car.
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Apr 20, 2019 22:21
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Uthor posted:Have you driven on them? My VW would take a few miles before realizing the sensors are back on the car. Yeah, a couple hundred km by now.
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Apr 20, 2019 22:28
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Deteriorata posted:There are devices you can buy to do it yourself. Alternatively, you could wedge something heavy against the brake pedal, then go crack the bleeder valve open until the fluid is done flowing out, and retighten the valve. Then lift the weight off the brake so the cylinder can refill, and repeat until the air is out. So, I was gonna do this, but the bleeder valve is rusted tight. I sprayed it with some penetrating lube, but it won't budge. I guess I'll let that work in for the evening, then try again tomorrow. It'd really help if I could find my mini torch right about now...
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Apr 21, 2019 00:35
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neogeo0823 posted:So, I was gonna do this, but the bleeder valve is rusted tight. I sprayed it with some penetrating lube, but it won't budge. I guess I'll let that work in for the evening, then try again tomorrow. It'd really help if I could find my mini torch right about now... If its not a pain, I'd spray it a couple times. Also, if its not in too awkward of a spot, and you've got one, an impact driver (used gently obviously) might help.
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Apr 21, 2019 01:27
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neogeo0823 posted:... Put at least a 2' length of tubing on the bleed screw nipple, and run the tube up & loop it over something several inches above the nipple, then down into a bottle. Open the bleed screw. Push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, Slowly let if off. Repeat a couple times. Go back & tighten the bleed screw. The air should be trapped up in the loop. (edit) do NOT use an impact wrench, it'll snap right off. Use a six-pointed socket & hand pressure. It may snap off anyway, in which case it's time for a new wheel cylinder.
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Apr 21, 2019 02:48
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I do about 2000mi per year, i.e. very infrequent social driving. My insurance, roadtax and MOT is about £900/yr and my old car costed about £6000 and have sold it for the same - over three years the total cost of ownership was around £3500 including some repair work. I am considering buying an early 70's MG B GT - the cost is somewhere between £4-8k depending on the condition, and is unlikely to fall over time assuming i don't drive it into a concrete wall. It is TAX and MOT Exempt, and the insurance is around £150/yr - so over the same period only around £500. My logic is - even if I have to dump £1k/yr of repair work into it, I'm coming out at least on par, and I've been driving around a cool classic car for a few years. I've done some basic mechanical work on my first few cars (Which were super old) (like changing alternators, plugs, brakepads, oil pumps, gaskets, etc) I have breakdown cover. I have a double garage with good lighting/poured epoxy floor/etc. I have a good assortment of tools (albeit nothing specifically automative-related yet) If the car was out of commission for 3 weekends while I was doing work/work was being done, it would be OK. How much of a mistake is this on a scale of 1-10?
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Apr 21, 2019 08:02
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I'd take safety ratings over "coolness" imo, but you do you.
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Apr 21, 2019 08:06
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Southern Heel posted:... I have never owned a new car. What you propose has been my lifetime philosophy and experience since age 14. Aside from the safety issue already raised by Queen Combat and becoming intimately acquainted with the Prince of Darkness, I say go for it - with one caveat: if possible, acquire at least two (old) cars; that way, you have a backup when one's down. I get that you don't have a daily need, but Murphy's Law dictates one will go down when you desperately need it. After 34-cars (owning between two and five simultaneously), I would never have done it differently. It's been a blast, I can fix nearly anything (as well as know when to walk away), and have saved probably $100-grand in that time. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Apr 21, 2019 |
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Apr 21, 2019 14:33
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I'd take safety over coolness as well, at least when it comes to other people than myself. But then again, I bet most accidents happen during rush hour where people zone out and less so when you go out for occasional rides and also take greater care because of the minimal safety compared to modern cars. I don't have data on this, and am way too tired to find some. Since you only drive 2k miles a year I bet you don't drive during those times. Maybe get a 2005 Camry V6 that are decently safe and super reliable as a backup. I'll confess that I secretly yearn for a pensioners old 1 owner Camry V6.
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Apr 21, 2019 16:56
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Follow up to my bike hitch lighting post. Installed the curt converter box which was straightforward but a PIA due to tiny wiring and working in the confined hatch spaces. Wired up a 4 wire lightbar for running lights, brakes, and signals. Trying to figure out a good solution to bring the bar closer to eye level but until I can figure something out I’ve just got it zip tied to the bottom. 
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Apr 21, 2019 18:05
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PainterofCrap posted:(edit) do NOT use an impact wrench, it'll snap right off. Use a six-pointed socket & hand pressure. It may snap off anyway, in which case it's time for a new wheel cylinder. So this is what i tried, and this is what happened. There goes $25 and like 3 days total of effort. Thankfully, the father-in-law came by today to help. Unthankfully, he "forgot" to put the drum back on while bleeding the brake and popped the new cylinder. So that was a whole load of extra Fun. At least it's loving done now. Now i just need a new tire, and it'll be inspection-ready!
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Apr 21, 2019 21:04
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sincx fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Apr 22, 2019 03:38
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Here's a dumb question. I just watched a ChrisFix video where he replaced the suspension components on a Del Sol. He pressed the wheel bearing into the knuckle, and that's retained by a snap ring. Then he pressed the hub into the bearing, but that doesn't look like it's positively retained by anything. Maybe the axle nut, but that would mean the only thing keeping the hub in place is the little clip on the other side of the axle. What's keeping the hub in place?
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Apr 22, 2019 05:31
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Friction.
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Apr 22, 2019 05:48
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Yeah it's an interference fit, right? The wheel bearing presses into the knuckle (interference) and the hub presses into the bearing (also interference). The snap ring is just there as insurance when you're pressing the hub in, it's not actually designed to hold the bearing in place once the vehicle is on the road.
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Apr 22, 2019 06:14
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