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If it’s just purely decorative, why not just glue it into place?
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Apr 18, 2019 01:28
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Get a thimble and push the nail in manually. Eat your spinach first.
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Apr 18, 2019 01:46
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AFewBricksShy posted:If it’s just purely decorative, why not just glue it into place? yeah that's what I was thinking, this is just what the people in the interior design thread recommended. What about silicone caulk? I have plenty of that left over.
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Apr 18, 2019 01:54
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Maybe construction adhesive? I'd be afraid of silicon caulk giving way over time and dropping a piece of lumber on a kids head. Personally I'd want something mechanical but maybe that's not required.
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Apr 18, 2019 06:01
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Guaranteed that weighs less than a lb. Construction adhesive would be more than adequate. Clean the surfaces prior to gluing, obviously.
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Apr 18, 2019 06:07
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tangy yet delightful posted:I'd be afraid of silicon caulk giving way over time and dropping a piece of lumber on a kids head. It's a piece of quarter-round molding, even if it did fall it wouldn't hurt anybody. Adhesive is perfectly adequate here.
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Apr 18, 2019 06:53
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A piece of chewing gum would probably hold that up for 10 years.
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Apr 18, 2019 07:05
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Check to see if it's the kind of moulding where you just lick the back of it and stick it on.
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Apr 18, 2019 08:29
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Will do. I will probably just caulk it or just leave it alone.
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Apr 18, 2019 18:00
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Khizan posted:It's a piece of quarter-round molding, even if it did fall it wouldn't hurt anybody. Adhesive is perfectly adequate here. Oh my bad I thought we were talking about this: 
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Apr 18, 2019 20:49
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Lmao, yeah well the concern for that crushing a kid is warranted. I was pretty confused 
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Apr 19, 2019 04:05
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So I have a bunch of kitchen cabinets that some one gave me that I want to hang up in my basement. Maybe ten feet of them or so, nothing crazy. I was planning on framing out the section with 2x4 and then hanging the cabinets. But I think I should put up some moisture barrier between the basement wall and the wood, like I was finishing the basement, but just that section, so there's not going to a humid moldy section behind the cabinets. Am I thinking right? I'm not sure what the best way to handle this is, but I figure it should be something simple. EDIT: My plan is to dry lock the wall section, put up some moisture proof foam insulation, frame out the section like a wall and hang the curtains. I figure if I don't do that, there'll be a bunch of moisture behind the cabinets and get soupy back there, but maybe I'm making it to be more than it's worth? Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 13:11
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Is it bare concrete at the moment? I really have no clue what I'm talking about but that seems like overkill. Unless you have plans to finish out the surrounding area I'm not sure why you'd use any foam. If any of it remains exposed to air I'd assume that's a fire hazard and against code. Why not just use some heavy duty plastic sheeting behind the cabinets where they would contact the cement (or whatever your basement is made of). Oh I guess whether the area is conditioned would also be pertinent information. TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Apr 20, 2019 |
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Apr 20, 2019 04:59
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https://imgur.com/a/OqpDdSU How do I get that thing out? I was building a dresser and put the wrong piece in too far (twice, there's another one on the same board). I can spin it but I can't work out backwards. Thinking I might need to get some girls glue or such and a thin write to give the piece a string I can pull, but there's probably a better way. The hike is about the size of a US penny. LawfulWaffle fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Apr 20, 2019 |
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Apr 20, 2019 17:04
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Interesting things in this old house’s switch boxes, but at least there appears to actually be a neutral. Should I be worried about all of the electrical tape splices and what appears to be mildly singed wiring? The single pole switch controls two separate exterior lights and I am trying to replace it with a zooz z-wave switch. 
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Apr 21, 2019 01:37
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TheBananaKing posted:Is it bare concrete at the moment? It's concrete that has been drylocked in the past, I'm not sure when. There's no water issues, just condensation. I figure the simple solution is to just run a fan/dehumidifier for a few days, dry it out really good, and then get some pressure treated 2x4 and mount them to the wall vertically so water would sit on them, with some moisture barrier plastic behind them, and just hang the cabinets. I measured it all out, and I only have about 36" worth of cabinets to hang (typically top and bottoms like a kitchen). I thought I had more and was going to install like seven feet, and I didn't want a water issue back there. Given it's such a small area, I won't go too crazy.
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Apr 21, 2019 19:36
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catspleen posted:Interesting things in this old house’s switch boxes, but at least there appears to actually be a neutral. Should I be worried about all of the electrical tape splices and what appears to be mildly singed wiring? The single pole switch controls two separate exterior lights and I am trying to replace it with a zooz z-wave switch. That's not singed, it's just old. Replace the tape splices though. You might just need to take the tape off and put a wire nut on. Keep track of your white wires. That white wire on the 3 way switch is being used as a traveler. In fact, there should be some black tape on it to signify that isn't no longer a neutral.
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Apr 22, 2019 00:39
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I figure the simple solution is to just run a fan/dehumidifier for a few days, dry it out really good, This is not useful. Concrete is a moisture wick. "Dry(ing) it out real good" like this is only the surface and will make no difference over time. Use PT, or put down plastic/vapor barrier. If you use PT, make sure all fasteners you put into it are galvanized or the entire thing will fall off the wall inside of 10 years.
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Apr 22, 2019 15:55
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LawfulWaffle posted:https://imgur.com/a/OqpDdSU Any chance a magnet will grab it?
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Apr 22, 2019 16:09
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LawfulWaffle posted:https://imgur.com/a/OqpDdSU Bend a paper clip into a curve. Insert it down the hole the shaft piece is supposed to go down and wiggle that piece out.
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Apr 22, 2019 19:10
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Motronic posted:This is not useful. Concrete is a moisture wick. "Dry(ing) it out real good" like this is only the surface and will make no difference over time. I meant to dry it as much as I can before I paint the area the cabinets will cover with drylock. Is that useful? Also, ingeneral, is there a good guide to how to use drylock? I had another wall of the basement that was below and entrance door that was leaking. I ripped out the entire door and entry way and fixed that all up, so no water is coming down, but you can see the trail where the water was running down the basement's block wall. It looks like the previous owners painted it with some kind of thick white moisture barrier, but it didn't adhere so it's puffy in places. I'd like to fix that up. It's not a large area, maybe ten square feet total. I know that people use Muriatic acid to prep and then use drylock, but I'd like to read up on how to properly clean and prepare the surface so I can re-do that patch right, and maybe redo all the walls. The walls have a small amount of water droplets forming on them . The humidity down there ranges from 40-45%, so I don't think it's too humid. I'm going to do that plastic square test and see, but I figure the water is wicking through the wall a bit. I'd like to sort that out.
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Apr 22, 2019 22:47
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I meant to dry it as much as I can before I paint the area the cabinets will cover with drylock. Is that useful? You just want the cement to be as dry as possible. Applying Drylock with a roller is more like slapping peanut butter on the wall than it is like regular painting. You can smooth it a bit, but it's going to be a little clumpy/lumpy. I always go heavy with my application, so the can doesn't cover nearly as much as it claims, but that's typical anyway. I think roller works better (and faster) than brush. Grab some smaller rollers for tight areas, and only use the brush where you have to. Wear old clothes/shoes, because it's guaranteed that Drylock will spatter off the roller, since you want to really load it up.
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Apr 23, 2019 00:03
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B-Nasty posted:You just want the cement to be as dry as possible. Applying Drylock with a roller is more like slapping peanut butter on the wall than it is like regular painting. You can smooth it a bit, but it's going to be a little clumpy/lumpy. I always go heavy with my application, so the can doesn't cover nearly as much as it claims, but that's typical anyway. Thanks! Should I scrape off any old build up and prep the surface at all?
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Apr 23, 2019 00:18
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I want to say thanks to the goon that recommended I seek out a local plastics store for materials to protect my "gaming table" TV. It cost me most of an hour's worth of driving round-trip, but they had 1/32" polycarbonate that they could cut to order; the best online shopping could get for me was 1/16", for more money and the risk that the sheet would break in transit. It's so easy to forget that on-line shopping is actually bad and not good, nowadays. I tried to find a particular bakelite pencil sharpener* for a reasonable price on-line for ages. Then I popped into the stationery department of a local book store for the first time since maybe 2005 and they had it for a few euros (and obviously no shipping costs). *) obviously not a pressing need but still E: the sharpener is made out of bakelite, not the pencils
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Apr 23, 2019 00:32
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Bakelite/things made out of it are still being produced?
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Apr 23, 2019 00:44
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Motronic posted:Bakelite/things made out of it are still being produced? Well I said bakelite because a lot of on-line stores are trying to flog it off as "genuine vintage bakelite sharpener from 1930" even though it's still being made. Apparently it's a material they call Duroplast https://www.standardgraph.com/pdf_kataloge/dx_dux_2019.pdf
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Apr 23, 2019 00:52
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Oh, that's pretty cool. It really does look like bakelite at least from the pics.
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Apr 23, 2019 00:55
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Thanks! Should I scrape off any old build up and prep the surface at all? If the old paint is obviously flaking off and/or you have any efflorescence, go over it with a wire brush and get it reasonably cleaned up. Make sure you have extra left over to go back over areas where the paint was applied too thin. You may or may not need a second coat, depending on how much moisture your walls are trying to hold back. You can always do one and then wait to see if that fixes the issue before the second coat. If you slap it on real thick, you probably won't need to. It's actually kind of a fun painting project, because it doesn't need to be anything near perfectly applied or much pre-prep, and like all painting, the after always looks so much better than before.
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Apr 23, 2019 02:53
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B-Nasty posted:If the old paint is obviously flaking off and/or you have any efflorescence, go over it with a wire brush and get it reasonably cleaned up. Make sure you have extra left over to go back over areas where the paint was applied too thin. You may or may not need a second coat, depending on how much moisture your walls are trying to hold back. You can always do one and then wait to see if that fixes the issue before the second coat. If you slap it on real thick, you probably won't need to. Got it, I had been following these guides https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infmur.html https://homeguides.sfgate.com/rid-white-alkaline-cinder-block-walls-31728.html A few places are pretty bad with efflorescense, so I think I need to take care of that. A few people recommend using TSP or even just vinegar, but it's the same, brush it with a wirebrush. I think I'll give it a try this weekend.
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Apr 23, 2019 03:29
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So parts of my house have plaster over rock lath and other parts plaster over wood lath. If I want to hang something heavy such as a clothes rack from the wall, what am I looking to use for a fastener? Long screws into a (hopefully) stud? The plaster seems to be horsehair mixed and it’s pretty crumbly. My previous house was mostly plaster as well but it was incredibly hard stuff and could hold anything.
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Apr 23, 2019 04:20
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Thanks for everyone who validated my opinion of the flashing on my chimney - here's a pic of the 'repair' job (left) which doesn't look like it's going to do a thing due to the huge gap? Also as it's flush to the roof on the sides but to me it just lets a ton of water in and then holds it safely inside! devicenull posted:That flashing around the chimney is not doing anything to stop water, so that's probably it. B-Nasty posted:The flashing around that chimney looks like it was installed by a drunk monkey. PainterofCrap posted:Jesus wept.
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Apr 23, 2019 13:08
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Oh my god that repair is hilarious.
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Apr 23, 2019 13:21
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punissuer posted:here's a pic of the 'repair' job (left) which doesn't look like it's going to do a thing due to the huge gap? Lol, no. Thinking about flashing is actually pretty easy if you just spend some time considering how gravity will cause water to run off of every surface. In this case, the head flashing (base flashing) should run up under the shingles and up the back side of the chimney. This flashing should be angled out so water running down the roof hits the flashing and is directed around the chimney. If the chimney is wide, the angle around the chimney is exaggerated with saddle flashing, which is basically a wedge that ramps the water around. For water running down the chimney, you don't want it sneaking between the base flashing and chimney. This is where the counter flashing comes in. It covers over the base flashing and is cut into the chimney itself. The point of keeping these two components separate is to allow the roof to move slightly relative to the chimney without buckling or ripping off the flashing. Good diagrams and explanations here: http://www.ashireporter.org/HomeInspection/Articles/Chimney-Flashings/2413#62389
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Apr 23, 2019 13:42
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Thankfully I noticed the failing ceiling fan electrical box while the fan was still held in by one screw. Once I got the fan down and started looking at the box I thought that it was a nail in. Now that I've broken it apart I'm thinking it's attached to the joist from the side. What's best practice going forward from here? I have attic access so if I need to then I can crawl around up there. Here's a couple of pictures from the bedroom.   What I think I need to do is head up to the attic, move the insulation to the side, and remove/replace the box from up there. Should I get the same style of box or is there's a better style I could put in its place? I feel like whatever I put in its place should also better seal up the attic from the bedroom to prevent heat loss in the winter, but I'm not 100% on that or how I'd do it.
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Apr 23, 2019 14:38
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If you can access it from above, that's definitely how I would go about it.
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Apr 23, 2019 14:48
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Crumps Brother posted:What I think I need to do is head up to the attic, move the insulation to the side, and remove/replace the box from up there. Should I get the same style of box or is there's a better style I could put in its place? I feel like whatever I put in its place should also better seal up the attic from the bedroom to prevent heat loss in the winter, but I'm not 100% on that or how I'd do it. If you have access from above, the best way to do this is by fitting in a new work fan box (assuming you still want a fan): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-15-3-cu-in-New-Construction-Brace-with-1-1-2-in-Box-CMB150-NB/205383182 If you're lucky, you can reuse the hole as it is, but you may need to enlarge it or move it slightly away from the joist so the new box fits. I wouldn't worry too much about cutting more drywall, as the fan canopy is usually big enough to cover any imperfections. Then, use caulk and/or spray foam to seal the box to the top of the drywall. If your have wider gaps, you may want to drywall tape/patch in the room first, but if you're careful with cutting, caulk should be enough. Those boxes screwed to the joists are the best way to hang a fan. Zero wobble, and you could do pullups on it if you wanted to.
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Apr 23, 2019 15:13
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B-Nasty posted:Lol, no. Thanks a lot for the link, will do some reading They came and popped open the wall and uncovered this so this project will run for a little while 
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Apr 23, 2019 15:17
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Gee, it almost looks like water got under the 'flashing' that was there and ran down the inside of the chimney. 
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Apr 23, 2019 15:23
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Would be a real shame if this were a 4 story townhouse and the chimney was an expressway to our ground floor...
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Apr 23, 2019 15:26
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punissuer posted:Thanks for everyone who validated my opinion of the flashing on my chimney - here's a pic of the 'repair' job (left) which doesn't look like it's going to do a thing due to the huge gap? Also as it's flush to the roof on the sides but to me it just lets a ton of water in and then holds it safely inside! Against all odds, they've managed to make it much worse than before. Whoever did that needs to be fired.
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Apr 23, 2019 17:01
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