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Went to the shop, got it out of storage, and went for a quick ride. Didn't want to go too far since it's the first nice Saturday on forever and every dipshit suv driver was out on the roads.
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Apr 13, 2019 23:45
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Fixed a sticky ignition switch by swapping the lock cylinder off a new emgo switch with the bottom half of the original switch so I didn't have to rewire it. Works great. Easy fix for those old worn out lock cylinders.
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Apr 20, 2019 11:52
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Changed the oil, cleaned and lubed the chain, washed it, and put it up for sale.
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Apr 20, 2019 20:34
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Sprocket started walking on the countershaft again..  https://imgur.com/a/PT0Lkky  countershaft sprocket fix v3. This bike is an early 950 with 70k and none of the technical updates.. I'll consider a 100k update & refresh when it makes it. If not, 990 repower. I'm curious to see how long this kludge lasts, to date the last one went about 1500mi before breaking the weld on 2 faces of the nut.
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Apr 20, 2019 23:57
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cursedshitbox posted:Sprocket started walking on the countershaft again.. Wouldn't it be easier to just buy a bike that's made properly? Your S.O. has the right idea, do that.
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Apr 21, 2019 00:06
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Slavvy posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just buy a bike that's made properly? Nah. get hosed with your vehicular sanity, mate. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Apr 21, 2019 |
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Apr 21, 2019 01:00
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 Progress continues on getting the cub trail worthy, "installed" a mud flap today. It looks so incredibly professional I bet none of you even realize its a shower pan liner Its a silly experiment, I doubt it will hold up to much abuse so I'll probably just take it off, for 6 bucks from home depot it was worth a try... the real part is 30-40 dollars (for some reason) and probably wouldn't even fit given that the fender angle is different (would bump into the engine likely) The important thing is I took it for a spin and both tires (changing tires is such a painnn) held air so I'm calling it a win
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Apr 21, 2019 04:12
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Serviced the filter (I’m done with my K&N love affair) and kludged up a new airbox hatch because a ding dong PO tossed the stock one. I’m hoping my buddy with a fancy 3D printer can make me something that fits better. Also, the retaining mechanism for DR650 air filters is stupid. 
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Apr 22, 2019 04:10
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Serviced the filter (I’m done with my K&N love affair) and kludged up a new airbox hatch because a ding dong PO tossed the stock one. I’m hoping my buddy with a fancy 3D printer can make me something that fits better. Also, the retaining mechanism for DR650 air filters is stupid. Are the bolts stock? Struggling to understand what's going on here. Piece of acrylic should get replaced by a custom 3d printed part?
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Apr 22, 2019 04:21
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mewse posted:Are the bolts stock? Struggling to understand what's going on here. Piece of acrylic should get replaced by a custom 3d printed part? Bolts are not stock. The nuts sit in recessed pockets and they’re about 5-7mm below the level of the opening of the airbox, which has a ridge. The stock lid would have had a groove with a gasket into which that ridge fits, like a Tupperware. Then the bolt tabs would be flush with the nuts. If it’s like the DR350, the bolts are retained wing nuts.
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Apr 22, 2019 04:33
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Bolts are not stock. The nuts sit in recessed pockets and they’re about 5-7mm below the level of the opening of the airbox, which has a ridge. The stock lid would have had a groove with a gasket into which that ridge fits, like a Tupperware. Then the bolt tabs would be flush with the nuts. If it’s like the DR350, the bolts are retained wing nuts. Is the internal ridge flat? Linus Tech Tips on youtube have discussed using special adhesive to make custom length/diameter o-rings
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Apr 22, 2019 04:37
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It is, and I considered doing something like that. I’ll look that up, thanks for the tip.
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Apr 22, 2019 04:52
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I am probably https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1j_hlNLPcs&t=518s
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Apr 22, 2019 05:07
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It wasn't today, sorry. But I got my first bike to an acceptable level of ride ability over the winter. Ive been on it three times since its been nice. The last time was rough. I haven't sat down and diagnosed it yet because of the holidays, but I think my stator took a crap. Broke down about 12 miles from home but charged the battery thanks to some awesome folks who came over to assist. Been noticing a weird lack of power/blatty exhaust note in sixth gear since its been back together, im thinking its a poor spark issue. Learned a hard lesson in how the charging system works on a bike. If you gotta jump start it, maybe think twice about immediately going for a ride. Bike completely died on some back roads. Once I pulled the clutch in and took an immediate left, it stalled and would not crank. Took the agm battery to work. Charged and tested good, rated for 120 CCA and tests 170. It actually tested 136 CCA on 10% charge so I am fairly confident battery conductance is good. Must be the stator since all i did was pull the cover for paint. I'll check charging voltage tomorrow. New wheel bearings, complete fork rebuild, including replacing the dampening screw and rod due to seizing on the right tube, clean and lube chain, oil flush and new honda oil and kn filter, powder coated all the black components, new tires, new front pads, and installed some of the components of an All Balls rebuild kit. The caliper pistons and seals are in good shape, so i left them alone. Just replaced slide boots and pins, changed the fluid. I'm in the process of reviving the mashed up fairings with Plastifix. Already went through a $45 kt. I picked up a few cans of pistachio colored Krylon paint/primer since my 5 year old said the bike needs to be green.  edit: A friend of mine who does automotive interior repair recovered the sear with a faux carbon fiber vinyl quite similar to the sear accents in a vw beetle turbo. looks real good but he gouged me good at $100 for a few dozen staples. Also, I have not cleaned it at all, and its covered with tile dust from remodeling my bathroom interwhat fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Apr 22, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 06:36
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I built a tire balancing stand with 2x4's and it seems to have worked great.
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Apr 22, 2019 06:46
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celebrated 4/20 by riding into the cascades and smoking legal things that were once illegal (cohibas 😍) snow riding is definitely the toughest stuff I have ever done. especially on shinko 705s lol
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Apr 22, 2019 16:05
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Cut it off at the knees so it can get new tires tomorrow. 
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Apr 23, 2019 03:48
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Can anyone give me an idea what charging voltage at the battery should be? It started at 13.2V not running, after it started, read 12.4v. Revved up gto 4-5k rpm and slipped the clutch, increased to 12.6-12.7. A tiny increase, but I know its not a car so i dont have anything to compare it to. Thinking about rigging my volt meter up to the dash and going for a ride
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Apr 23, 2019 15:46
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interwhat posted:Can anyone give me an idea what charging voltage at the battery should be? It started at 13.2V not running, after it started, read 12.4v. Revved up gto 4-5k rpm and slipped the clutch, increased to 12.6-12.7. A tiny increase, but I know its not a car so i dont have anything to compare it to. Thinking about rigging my volt meter up to the dash and going for a ride Should still be 14ish volts. I know my KTM is stationary around 13.2, cranks at 12.7 and charges at 14.5 when riding
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Apr 23, 2019 16:16
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found out i lost 2 triple clamp bolts at my last race.. 10 bucks in parts, 10 bucks in shipping
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Apr 23, 2019 16:42
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When last we left the Bandit 7 months ago, it was in quite a state: Here it is today:  -- New Continental ContiMotions, which were on closeout and thus marginally cheaper than the Shinko 006's I would have otherwise bought -- New wheel bearings, F&R -- New HH brake pads, F&R -- New chain and sprockets, +1t in front to bring down the highway revs. There's more than enough power to overcome the steeper gearing. -- Fresh oil and filter, which involved using a breaker bar to loosen the drain plug, as well as a small hammer, screwdrivers, picks, and wire cutters to dislodge the remnants of the (likely factory) crush washer. Before having the tires mounted, I removed the rim tape and scrubbed/waxed the wheels. I also scrubbed the front rotors, and cleaned the sticky/seized buttons (which turned out to be all of them). In a rare moment of intelligence, I had stored the Corbin saddle indoors for the winter. I gave it some leather treatment and reinstalled it after washing and waxing the whole bike. The folks at D&D Exhaust were nice enough to send me a new silencer tag:  I bought the Bandit at the end of last June, and only put on a few hundred miles before the already-thin rear tire gave out (plus all the other deferred maintenance detailed above), and I had to mothball it for financial reasons. Looking forward to getting in a full season of riding this year. 
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Apr 23, 2019 19:16
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That is an extremely good looking bike.
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Apr 23, 2019 19:32
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Razzled posted:found out i lost 2 triple clamp bolts at my last race.. 10 bucks in parts, 10 bucks in shipping locktite them bitches. the correct torque settings feel weak as hell and I'm always like "whatever you say Mr. Enginerd"
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Apr 23, 2019 19:43
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interwhat posted:Can anyone give me an idea what charging voltage at the battery should be? It started at 13.2V not running, after it started, read 12.4v. Revved up gto 4-5k rpm and slipped the clutch, increased to 12.6-12.7. A tiny increase, but I know its not a car so i dont have anything to compare it to. Thinking about rigging my volt meter up to the dash and going for a ride Yeah nah you have charging issues. 13.2v is fresh off the charger, 12.6v is nominal (or fully charged with some load, eg some lamps) and revved up to 5k should be seeing close to 14v. Check the alternator output next to see if you need a new r/r (likely) or a new stator (possible).
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Apr 23, 2019 22:41
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah nah you have charging issues. 13.2v is fresh off the charger, 12.6v is nominal (or fully charged with some load, eg some lamps) and revved up to 5k should be seeing close to 14v. And if you find a fault on one the first of those, use the flowchart and check both. So you don't have to wait twice on parts.. That's really annoying.
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Apr 23, 2019 23:12
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Dagen H posted:When last we left the Bandit 7 months ago, it was in quite a state: Bandits rule. Nice work!
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Apr 24, 2019 00:48
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah nah you have charging issues. 13.2v is fresh off the charger, 12.6v is nominal (or fully charged with some load, eg some lamps) and revved up to 5k should be seeing close to 14v. When I brought up battery issues before the advice was "test the RR and stator" but no mention of how a person would do this. Could you please explain for both of us. My Grom with a new battery is 12-11.6v at first key on, 11.4 at crank, and charges at 13v max when riding. It's a Ricky stator with a trailtech RR. The numbers seem low to me.
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Apr 24, 2019 16:18
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Coydog posted:When I brought up battery issues before the advice was "test the RR and stator" but no mention of how a person would do this. Could you please explain for both of us. Rectifier: converts A/C to D/C Regulator: maintains voltage within a range (In this case, it stops the battery from being overcharged) Those numbers are low. You could bench test a reg/rec but you'd need a rheostat. They are normally tested on the bike by testing the whole system. Always suspect the battery first. Get it bench tested, never assume it is good because it's new. If your charging system has not been working, your battery is no longer new, it's been cranking over your bike without a charge. Once you know your battery is good you test the whole system. You've already done this. Since the numbers are off, we know there is a problem. Next step is to test the stator/alternator/generator, since if the generator is not working nothing downstream will work. How this is precisely done depends on the bike but there are usually 3 wires that come from the stator. You are checking for the correct A/C voltage from these wires with the bike running. If both the battery and stator check out, then the problem almost certainly lies with the reg/rec. It could also be bad wiring or a bad ground, but on a newish bike I wouldn't suspect that.
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Apr 24, 2019 16:59
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Thanks a ton for that explanation. It's a huge help. I just fought tooth and nail to get my last battery replaced under warranty, and honestly I may have been in the wrong there. Regardless, I'd like to assume that lightning doesn't strike twice and start checking the charge system. For measuring AC from the station, should I contact Ricky stator for proper voltages to look for, or just check it to be putting out 13.3-14v?
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Apr 24, 2019 17:22
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I splurged and got an absurdly pricey antigravity li ion 'restart' HD battery for my Tuono. I had some no name $30 junk amazon battery and i thought my starter was cooked but it looks like it may have been the battery. Fires up super fast now, whereas before it took several tries, made a nasty clunk sound and the !service! Warning popped up. May still want to look in to my starter just in case it was damaged. Otherwise still need to do the valves, get new seat screws, change the oil and chain.
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Apr 24, 2019 18:19
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Coydog posted:Thanks a ton for that explanation. It's a huge help. I just fought tooth and nail to get my last battery replaced under warranty, and honestly I may have been in the wrong there. Regardless, I'd like to assume that lightning doesn't strike twice and start checking the charge system. I don't want to give you the wrong numbers but on every bike I've tested it should be ~ 50v AC from the stator. You disconnect the stator from the RegRec when performing this test. 13.3v - 14v would be DC voltage with the bike running and your multimeter between the battery terminals. Looking at the Grom service manual: https://www.hondagrom.net/hosted/service-manual/grom-msx125-service-manual.zip There isn't a voltage test for the stator, just resistance: ALTERNATOR CHARGING COIL INSPECTION Remove the right shroud (page 2-4). Disconnect the alternator connector [1]. Check the resistance between the alternator 4P connector [1] White and Green wire terminals of the alternator side. Replace the stator if the resistance is out of specification. Install the right shroud (page 2-4). The RegRec test, from the manual: REGULATOR/RECTIFIER SYSTEM INSPECTION Remove the shroud (page 2-4). Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the regulator/rectifier connector 6P [1]. Check it for loose contact or corroded terminals. If the charging voltage reading (page 18-6) is out of the specification, inspect the regulator/rectifier connector terminals (wire harness side) as follows: Table missing here, it's in the manual If all components of the charging system is normal and there are no loose connections at the regulator/rectifier connector, replace the regulator/rectifier unit. Install the right shroud (page 2-4). The whole charging system inspection/troubleshooting only takes up 3 pages in the manual. Not much to it. Since you're using an aftermarket stator and RR, you might want to get the exact testing figures from Ricky.
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Apr 24, 2019 18:24
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This video helped me figure out how to test my fried R/R: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2jWIkhy1fo In short, you're testing to see that current can only travel one direction through it. If current can go two directions, then diodes are hosed. The R/R will still work a lot of the time but may do funky things like overcharge your battery (had this happen) or fail to regulate the current, dumping all of it into the main harness, blowing fuses and poo poo (also had this happen).
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Apr 24, 2019 18:38
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I changed my oil and went for a ride
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Apr 24, 2019 22:06
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EX250 Type R posted:I changed my oil and did wheelies
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Apr 25, 2019 13:12
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So true it hurts. I made lots of kids out and about very happy judging by the way they pointed and waved (and got ugly looks from their mothers)
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Apr 25, 2019 20:20
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Besides opening up the stator cover and checking the ticking time bomb in there (looks okay but will replace soon), installed some HEL lines on the FZ. 
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Apr 26, 2019 06:31
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Apr 27, 2019 18:31
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puberty worked me over posted:No one sells a plastic skid plate for the XT and apparently the aluminum ones are junk that get hung up on rocks and trees. The following however is super slippery and easily replaceable. That's fantastic.
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Apr 27, 2019 18:43
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That's a great idea, cutting boards are usually delrin which is super tough
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Apr 27, 2019 18:59
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finished washing my bike after getting back from an overnight ~250mi ride up in the cascades
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Apr 27, 2019 19:39
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